Nordic News and Notes: 2023 Interim – Correction!

Correction! In the first post, I posted a link to the full column, but the link led in a circle to this shorter post. HERE’S the full News and Notes column.

This summer’s “News and Notes” column highlights two upcoming Minnesota exhibits featuring Scandinavian-inspired weaving: Domestic to Decorative: The Evolution of Nordic Weaving in Red Wing (October 27-December 24, 2023) and Nordic Reflections in Fiber: The 50th Anniversary of the Duluth Fiber Guild in Duluth (September 2 – 30, 2023).

Two recent webinars on Norwegian weaving from Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum  were recently posted on the Vesterheim YouTube channel: “Dressing the Wise and Foolish Virgins: Women, Dress, and Culture in 16th and 17th Century Norwayby Laura Berlage, and Frida Hansen: A Norwegian Art Nouveau Artist in Wool  by Robbie LaFleur.

Joel Greifinger has begun a new Facebook group that will be of interest to many Norwegian Textile Letter readers, Scandinavian Folk Textiles.

Suggestions for some interesting reading rounds out the “News and Notes” column.

God sommer!

Robbie LaFleur, Publisher

Thank you to everyone who helps support the Norwegian Textile Letter with donations to cover expenses. Your financial support is crucial and very much appreciated. Thank you for being a subscriber! 

Robbie LaFleur

Here is the easy-to-use link to donate:

 

Embellishment! Fiber Entries at the Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum Exhibit

A new article has been added to the Norwegian Textile Letter, highlighting the textiles included in the special exhibition no showing at Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum. Weaving, embroidery, felting, Hardanger embroidery — enjoy these embellished examples.

Embellishment! Fiber Entries at the Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum Exhibit

Juli Seydell Johnson. Iowa City, Iowa. “Reaching to the Sun” Quilt

I highly recommend a trip to Decorah, Iowa, to see all 71 exuberant examples of folk art in various techniques.

Robbie LaFleur, Publisher, Norwegian Textile Letter

The Norwegian Busserull Work Shirt: A Lecture

If you are near the Twin Cities in Minnesota this week, you could enjoy a talk on the Norwegian Busserull work shirt at Mindekirken, the Norwegian-American Church in Minneapolis. Carol Colburn will be presenting at the church’s Tuesday Lunch series.

May 2 : Busseruller – Work Shirts in Norway and America
Presenter: Carol Colburn
Carol is a clothing designer, artisan, historian, and an enthusiastic teacher. She lives in Duluth, Minnesota where she rests her eyes on the distant horizon of Lake Superior between her projects of sewing, weaving, writing, and gardening. Through her travels, she has found inspiration in everyday as well as festive clothing traditions, with a frequent focus on Scandinavian countries. Her publications celebrate the design, techniques, and meanings behind everyday and folk clothing and household textiles. She worked in professional theater and taught period clothing design, pattern making, and sewing in university theater programs before she began teaching independently. Today Carol’s sewing workshops incorporate traditional textile traditions along with contemporary craft. Students in her workshops are introduced to an appreciation of older sewing techniques while creating beautiful and useful custom garments for contemporary life. These garments, which honor time-tested traditions, also suit folks today who enjoy the outdoors in all four seasons. Carol teaches in folk schools, fiber guilds, and museum settings.
If you can’t make the lecture in person, you can read the article Carol wrote for the Norwegian Textile Letter in 2016, “The Busserull (Norwegian Work Shirt) Tradition.”
I plan to attend the lunch and lecture on Tuesday. If you are there, say hello!
Robbie LaFleur 

Thank you to everyone who helps support the Norwegian Textile Letter with donations to cover expenses. Your financial support is crucial and very much appreciated. Thank you for being a subscriber! 

Here is the easy-to-use link to donate:

 

The First Norwegian Textile Letter Bonus Interim Article

The first Norwegian Textile Letter bonus interim article is a review of Nina Granlund Sæther’s new book from Trafalgar Press, Nina’s Favorite Mittens and Socks from Around Norway by Nina Granlund Sæther

If you are planning your summer trips, this book might be the perfect place to find a portable travel project. The reviewer, Mary Skoy, enthusiastically ended her review with, “After looking at a knitting book as inspiring as this, I wish I could knit faster.

mitten book cover

I recently gave a webinar for Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum, The Mystery of the Missing Swans and Maidens: A Frida Hansen Tapestry Tale. It aired on April 2, but is now available on the Vesterheim YouTube channel. This lecture is timely if you get a chance to visit the exhibit at the Milwaukee Art Museum, Scandinavian Design in the United States: 1890-1980, where you will be able to see Frida Hansen’s Southward in person. This is the webinar description: 

Back in 1903, Norwegian-born socialite and tapestry teacher Berthea Aske Bergh was determined to show Americans the brilliance of Norwegian billedvev, or tapestry. She traveled back to Norway and purchased Sørover (Southward), a tapestry of swans and maidens with shimmering threads from the famous Art Nouveau artist Frida Hansen.

Southward was an important, often-displayed monumental tapestry, so when the curators for the blockbuster show, Scandinavian Design in the United States, 1890-1980, sought key textiles, Frida Hansen’s tapestry was top of mind. But where was this 11 x 10 foot weaving now? Only a few grainy black-and-white photos and many glowing descriptions remained.

In January 2021, nearly 90 years after Southward was last displayed publicly, noted rug dealer Peter Pap opened a plastic bin in a storage building in Maine. He unfolded a woven treasure in dusty, but pristine condition, and with a quick google search, he learned it was a long-lost Frida Hansen tapestry.

The veil of mystery, as well as the dust of decades, has been removed from Southward. The Frida Hansen masterpiece was restored to the world in time to add to the Scandinavian Designexhibit during its recent run at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and at the Milwaukee Museum of Art, showing March 24-July 23, 2023.

Join Robbie LaFleur for this timely webinar to celebrate the life and work of Frida Hansen and, especially, to hear about the Southward tapestry mystery as it unfolded.

Coming soon, an article about a Finnish weaver…

Thank you to everyone who helps support the Norwegian Textile Letter with donations to cover expenses. Your financial support is crucial and very much appreciated. Thank you for being a subscriber! 

Robbie LaFleur

Here is the easy-to-use link to donate:

 

 

Issue 1, 2023, of the Norwegian Textile Letter is Out

I greatly admire people who learn a technique, investigate it thoroughly, and then go beyond. This issue includes two articles about artists who have taken the Norwegian tradition of sprang and made it a central point of their lives!

Carol James is an American who learned sprang when she was asked, years ago, to reproduce some military sashes in the stretchy knotting technique. Now she has written books with instruction and patterns, and produced how-to videos. She teaches workshops, and continually experiments with new patterns and items to create — even pants. She’s amazing; read “Twist of Fate: Carol James’ Journey in Sprang.”

Liilian Saksi, a Swedish-born artist living in Norway, explores color in her abstract art works. Using sprang, she is able to highlight the wool yarn she spins. Her relationship with the sheep she raises is an important part of her practice. The titles of her works often include the names of the sheep whose wool is used.  Read: “Liilian Saksi: An Artist in Språngning

Liilian Saksi in the process of making “Konfetti (“Confetti,” from the fleeces of Frida, Lovikka, and Anni), 2022.

Liilian Saksi included a wonderful essay by textile artist and author Anne Karin Jortveit on her website, about the connection between humans and animals — in this case, sheep. I am sure it will resonate with many Norwegian Textile Letter readers. This issue includes a translation of the essay, along with information about a couple of Jortveit’s works. See: “To Seek Connections (Or Wanting to Know Where Things Come From).”

Anne Karin Jortveit. Sørgen’s Signatur (Sorrow’s Signature), 2022. Rug hooking on fabric with hand-spun wool thread (187 x 143 x 5 cm).

I know that many Norwegian Textile Letter readers are fans of ryas, or pile coverlets, from all the Scandinavian countries. This issue includes a translation of a blog post by Elisabet Jansson about some historical Swedish ryas. Read: “Ryas at Sörmlands Museum.”

I will just mention the other articles, and let you discover and enjoy them. Mendable: An Exhibit and Environmental Investigation describes the textile works that were part of an exhibit of the Norske Kunsthåndverkere (Norwegian Association of Arts and Crafts). Molly Elkind reviews a book about Norwegian weaver Solveig Albert’s 100 “miniatures,” Continuum. Katherine Larson and Marta Kløve Juuhl wrote a scholarly article for the Archaeological Textile Review, Norwegian Double-Cloth: Warp-Weighted Loom Experiments in a Complicated Technique. Larson also wrote an overview for Norwegian Textile Letter readers, with background and highlights of their research project. (Don’t miss her story of pennies and the pandemic…)

This is the first issue in the new semi-annual publishing cycle. The next full issue will come out in October, but several articles will be coming out before then, and added to the main page for this issue.

Thank you to everyone who helps support the Norwegian Textile Letter with donations to cover expenses. Your financial support is crucial; an end-of-the-year donation would be much appreciated. Thank you for being a subscriber! 

Robbie LaFleur

For those who would like to donate, here’s an easy link.

 

 

The Norwegian Textile Letter: Taking Stock after Ten Years of Online Publishing

February 2023

Dear Norwegian Textile Letter readers and supporters, 

The end of 2022 marked ten years for the Norwegian Textile Letter online. It was a good time to take stock of the newsletter and my own research, writing and weaving. It’s been a rewarding challenge. When the newsletter was published in print, there were around 250 subscribers; now more than 1550 people receive notification of new issues, from many countries. Yet, it briefly crossed my mind — maybe this was a long enough run for the newsletter?

But wait! What about my five-page, ever-growing document titled “Future NTL Articles?” What about the articles already planned for the 2023 issues? What about all of the older black-and-white newsletters buried in pdfs, with articles that could be reprinted with new content and color photos? What about all of the amazing contemporary weaving underway by Norwegian artists? There’s too much to share to stop now!  

The upcoming issue will include an article about the life (with sheep!) and work of Norwegian artist Liliian Saksi, who interprets traditional Norwegian Sprang twining technique in a painterly way.

My goal with the newsletter is to create connection among fans of Scandinavian textiles, unearth and publish gems of historical research, and inspire weavers with information about beautiful historical and contemporary Scandinavian textiles. I’m still excited about that goal, and all the possibilities. I want to keep access wide and free, without burying articles behind a paywall. My mission is to spread information and inspiration, and to keep it available long into the future. Perhaps a weaver will find inspiration and connection through a Norwegian Textile Letter article twenty years from now.

The most-read article over time is “Varafeldur: An Icelandic Rya Reconstruction,” by Marta Kløve Juuhl, from November 2013.

The Next Chapter for the Norwegian Textile Letter

I’ve decided to change the publishing schedule from four times per year to semi-annually, March and October. However, the total content will remain the same, or even expand. During the interim between issues, new articles will appear on an occasional schedule and be added to the Current Issue page. The “Nordic Notes” column will come out more frequently, to keep readers abreast of upcoming lectures, exhibits, videos, and more. 

With this schedule the full administrative, formatting, and deadline-sensitive work of producing four separate issues is reduced to two, yet readers will get the same full plate of articles throughout the year. 

Watch for the new issue in late March! Through this year, I hope you’ll be as excited about the new format as I am. I’m always happy to hear your comments and ideas for content. (Email here)

Robbie LaFleur, Publisher

P.S. I’ve enjoyed making custom headers for each new issue. Here are a handful of my favorite header images. There will be a new one soon!

And More Scandinavian Textile Virtual Lectures!

What an abundance of opportunities this month. I updated the Nordic Notes: Happy 2023 post with details on two more virtual lecture opportunities. See more details for each in the Nordic Notes column.

Virtual Lecture: “Somewhere in America: The Story of Petra’s Quilt.” By Katherine Larson. Sponsored by Livsreise Norwegian-American Heritage Center in Stoughton, WI. Saturday, February 25, 2023, 1 pm-2 pm CST. 

Lecture: Warmth and Color: Traditional Scandinavian Coverlets. Sponsored by the Textile Center of Minnesota as part of “Fiber Art of All” week. Speaker: Laurann Gilbertson, Chief Curator of Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum. Friday, Feb. 21, 11 am CST. 

Also, today, February 10, at noon, Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum opens up registration for in-person 2023 classes. Check them out!

Robbie LaFleur, Publisher, Norwegian Textile Letter 

 

Thank you to everyone who helps support the Norwegian Textile Letter with donations to cover expenses. Your donations matter. Thank you for being a subscriber! 

For those who would like to donate, here’s an easy link.

The New Norwegian Textile Letter issue is out: November 2022

The new issue of the Norwegian Textile Letter is up! (If your email does not show images, read this web version.)

A focus on Finland continues in this issue, with two articles on Finnish folk ryijy (or ryas)  by Marjo Ahonen, Curator at the Craft Museum of Finland–such a clear and interesting history. I hadn’t thought of a rya this big:

In the large rooms of stone-built royal palaces and manor houses, ryas were used on the sleeping lounges along the walls of the rooms. Blankets with thick piles to ward off the cold were the lifeblood of sleepers. Ryas made in narrow looms were joined with several seams to make a wide blanket, and up to four people could sleep side by side under one blanket.

In her second article, Ahonen describes many of the symbols typically found on the folk ryas.

Read “The Meanings of Finnish Folk Rya: Cultural Traditions” and “The Meanings of Finnish Folk Rya: Patterns in the Folk-Style Ryas.”

It is an honor to conclude our Finnish Focus with articles by noted Finnish tapestry artists Aino Kajaniemi and Inka Kivalo. Their styles are different, but both articles are deeply personal explorations of their work. You’ll be inspired!

Read “Playfulness and Joy in my Atelier” by Inka Kivalo.

Don’t you love the idea of a project that reconstructs Viking-age fabric for contemporary commercial production? Norwegian fashion designers and a furniture company did. Read “VikingGold: Weaving History and Fashion Together” by Tone Skårdal Tobiasson.

A Nuen chair with fabric woven by Krivi Vev from wool spun at Hillesvåg Wool Spinnery.

Norwegian artist Ann Cathrin November Høibo wove “Dreams Ahead” on an enormous loom. Read how she faced the challenge both technically and emotionally during her seven months of weaving. “To Reach the top of a Mountain: Ann Cathrin November Høibo.”

Mary Skoy reviewed a new book by a Danish knitting expert: Vivian Høxbro’s Knitting Handbook: 8 Schools of Modular Knitting. I would like someone to knit me every one of the projects in this book. “Book Review: Vivian Høxbro’s Knitting Handbook: 8 Schools of Modular Knitting.”

If you did not get a chance to visit Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum this summer, you can still see the 2022 Ribbon Winners from the Annual Exhibition of Weaving in the Norwegian Tradition.

Laura Demuth, Decorah, IA. “Two Long Winters” People’s Choice Award

I sent out the “Nordic Notes” column early, but there are additions now, an abundance of Scandinavian textile materials to read and view.

And Thank you to everyone who helps support the Norwegian Textile Letter with donations to cover expenses. Your financial support is crucial; an end-of-the-year donation would be much appreciated. Thank you for being a subscriber! 

Robbie LaFleur

For those who would like to donate, here’s an easy link.