Tips for Weaving a Voss Rye

By Marta Kløve Juuhl

Draft

Suggested Materials

Voss ryer are woven with wool for the warp, weft, and pile. Using a 10 dent reed at 20 epi (1 thread per heddle and 2 in each dent), two suitable yarns are Hillesvåg tynt vevgarn (thin weaving yarn) or Rauma prydvevgarn.

Traditional Voss ryer were woven in two sections, each about 70–75 cm wide, and sewn together afterwards. One half is turned upside down, causing the nap to appear in two directions. 

Weaving

Start weaving a hem for app. 15cm without knots. Do the same at the other end, too.

The weft might be one color, or if you use the stripes in the warp, you could weave stripes in the weft. If so, start with the knots once you start with the stripes.

This piece from an exhibition at the Voss Folkemuseum includes stripes in the warp and the weft.

Beat hard: the rya is supposed to be quite firm. You make the knots after each 8th shot, always on treadle 4. Then you will have the knots right in the middle of the “goose eye”, see the draft. 

The yarn for the pile knots could be of the same type as the rya, then 4-double it. Of course you may use whatever you like, just be sure that you have enough for the whole textile.

You can make “butterflies” of the yarn to do the knots. Another way to do it is to cut the threads in right length before you start knotting. Then each knot will be of the same length. In earlier days, this was most common.  If you want the knots to show on the other side, you have to cut the threads before, then use knot B. These knots should always be made around the 3 warp threads in the middle of the goose eye. Then you’ll have to make the other knots on the cross in the middle between the 2 “goose eyes”, see knot A.

If you use both types of knots in the same row, they don’t have to be as thick as if you have just one.

The pile could be 6 – 8 cm long,  then the threads should be double this length when making the knots. In this way you decide how thick you want the rya.

On many of the old ryas the pile is in squares; for instance red and black. For example, you might have a total of 30 knots across the width of your piece. If you want squares, make 4 knots on each color in the width and 6 rows of knots in the height.

Bright colors–and squares– shine in this rye from the Voss Folkemuseum exhibition.

It’s most common to use knot A.

Finishing  the rye

If you have a long warp, it’s best to cut it when you have made 2 pieces for one rya.

Then you turn around one part and lay both close to each other on a table and sew them together by hand. Be aware of the pattern, it’s important that you have beaten with the same strength all through the weaving.

At last you make the hem in both ends. It should be against the nap side, because that is to be down to your body in a bed. Use 1 strand of yarn. The hem is doubled. Roll toward the pile side about 1 cm wide, and again. It’s called a rullekant, or rolled hem.