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“We knit to keep from unraveling”: The Red Hat Resurgence

On January 1, 2026, Needle & Skein, a cozy yarn shop in suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota sent a cheerful New Year’s greeting to their followers on Instagram: “Here’s to another year of inspiration, creativity, and community together. Welcome 2026!” The post garnered a few polite “likes.”

A week later, everything changed when Renee Nicole Good was shot and killed by ICE agents deployed by the Trump Administration, sparking vigils and protests. Her execution by ICE was followed by that of Alex Pretti on January 24. 

Mary Skoy was one of the first in our Scandinavian Weavers Study Group to knit a red hat.

Minnesota has a long and proud history of civic engagement and creative activism. Since December, when “Operation Metro Surge” began, Twin Cities residents had found ways to support their immigrant neighbors in hiding as well as those in detention. Now, their efforts redoubled. The staff at Needle & Skein rose to the challenge when knitting designer Paul Neary premiered the “Melt the Ice” hat.

The shop’s Instagram post on January 15 read, “In the 1940s, Norwegians made and wore red pointed hats with a tassel as a form of visual protest against Nazi occupation of their country. Within two years, the Nazis made these protest hats illegal and punishable by law to wear, make or distribute. As purveyors of traditional craft, we felt it appropriate to revisit this design.”

The post included an invitation to a “resistance knit in” where the red hat pattern would be sold, with proceeds donated to community organizations.

“This event isn’t meant to replace direct action or policy work,” shop owner Gilah Mashaal clarified. “It’s a way to gather the community, raise funds that will be redistributed locally, and connect our community to organizations doing on-the-ground support. We believe mutual aid, visibility, and community building all matter, and this is one way we can contribute as a small local shop.”

Immediately, the shop was inundated with requests for the red hat pattern, which appeared the next day on Ravelry, a popular knitting platform, for a five-dollar fee. It was quickly followed by a crochet version. 

Word spread like wildfire through the knitting community, both in person and online, while local TV stations provided coverage of the efforts. New knitting groups formed all over the world to knit and wear the red hats. As shortages of red yarn were reported, knitters improvised, knitting or wet-felting smaller hats as lapel pins, creating sewn versions, and even dyeing their own yarn. Artists drew illustrations of loons—Minnesota’s state bird—knitting and wearing the red cap.

By February 15, Needle & Skein posted that knitters from over 53 countries had donated funds and/or downloaded the original patterns. By March 15, $850,000 had been raised for more than 25 organizations, with no signs of stopping. 

What is the history of the red resistance hat in Norway? And why did a pattern based on it strike such a chord in 2026?

From Nisse to Jössings: The History of the Red Hat

Vesterheim Instagram post showing an impromptu display.

On February 26, Susan Kolstad and Kristin Propson presented “Red Hats as a Symbol of Resistance in WWII Norway” as part of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum’s ongoing “Folk Art Online Presentations.” 

According to their webinar, the red hat has deep roots. The red “Phrygian Cap” was adopted during the French and American Revolutions as a symbol of liberty. (The hat recently made a comeback during the Paris Olympics in 2024 when it appeared as the plushie mascot of the Summer Games.) At the same time, Norway was struggling for its own independence from Danish and Swedish rule, which it achieved on May 17, 1905. In the century leading up to independence, traditional craft skills and cultural symbols were promoted in order to define and celebrate a unique national identity, or “Norwegian-ness.”

The nisse is one such symbol. In Norwegian folktales, this little bearded creature—the ancestor of today’s garden gnomes—lived on farms, hidden in the hay loft. He came out secretly at night, providing help or hindrance to the farm family depending on how well he was treated. At Christmas, a bowl of porridge was left out to appease him. Wearing a cheerful knitted red stocking cap, the nisse became a symbol of Christmas in Norway, frequently appearing in greeting cards and periodicals.

In 1940, everything changed. On April 9, the Nazis invaded and occupied Norway, installing a puppet government under collaborator Vidkun Quisling. 

Symbols of Norwegian cultural identity took on added urgency, raising morale and building solidarity. Ordinary Norwegians knitted and wore red hats to show their opposition to the occupation as well as support for the Jössings, those doing the heroic and dangerous work of organized resistance. A writer who was a child during the occupation shared her wartime memories:

We would always find ways to annoy the Germans and the Nazis…We would all wear red knitted hats which meant we were “Jossings” or against the Germans. And on the king’s birthday we wore a red rose on our clothes. Everyone knew what it meant, but they could not arrest everyone.

On February 26, 1942, the red hats were banned. A photo from the Hjemmefrontmuseet (The Norwegian Resistance Museum) shows an announcement from a Trondheim newspaper declaring the wearing of red hats punishable by law. If the person wearing the hat was under 14 years of age, their parents would be punished. 

Still, the Norwegians knitted on. Artifacts from this period include little Norwegian flags and tiny knitted red caps that could be secretly sewn into clothing. Organized resistance continued until Norway was liberated on VE Day, May 8, 1945.

Threads of History: The Red Hats Today

In a televised interview about the red hat pattern, Gilah Mashaal, noted that the project clearly “hit a nerve” with knitters the world over. What are the threads of this worldwide story and how are they knit together, 84 years after the original red hat ban?

In the case of Minneapolis, the historical parallels with World War II Norway are clear: An armed and hostile occupying force, driven by fascist ideology, wielding indiscriminate violence against a civilian population. Mashaal said that in the face of “Operation Metro Surge,” she and other metro residents had been feeling despair and helplessness. The red hat project gave them an immediate, concrete, and practical method of helping those who were being targeted. The money raised is donated to food shelves, legal funds, and other community-based immigrant aid organizations. 

Making and wearing the red hats also reminds knitters of the courage and integrity shown by the Norwegians in World War II, qualities they hope to emulate. Many Minnesotans are descended from Norwegian immigrants, and for them, knitting the red hats is an expression of pride in their heritage. As Needle & Skein employee Bethany Penna said, “It’s a beautiful tribute to our Norwegian ancestors.” Many have shared stories of family members who endured the occupation and participated in resistance efforts. 

Knitters also see the red hats as a way to engage in peaceful protest, to express opposition to ICE, and to show solidarity with their neighbors, while the physical act of knitting gives knitters something to do to ease their anxiety and agitation. As one knitter baldly stated, “We knit to keep from unraveling.” Ravelry designer Mary Heather concurred, writing, “Of course, we’re knitting and crocheting…otherwise we’d probably combust.” Mary Heather noted that knitting and crochet are only one of many efforts that include contacting government representatives, contributing to mutual aid organizations, and protesting. In addition, “Using our crafting time to make projects in protest and connection with other crafters around the world helps us remember we’re not alone.” 

Peg Hansen made a red hat for herself and for a volunteer in Red Wing.

Another thread in this story is the color red, long associated with protest movements and power struggles. Red hat knitters have spoken about taking the color back from MAGA movement they feel have co-opted it. Others noted resonance with other causes such as the Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women movement (MMIW), which uses powerful images of red dresses and red hands to draw attention to the high rates of murders of Native women and girls. In this vein, Mary Heather wrote: 

In uncertain and scary times, our handmade creations can provide powerful warmth and connection. This post is a celebration of that warmth, as seen through recently completed projects Ravelers have made using rich reds, oranges, and yellows. These cozy and warm colors can carry meaning, too… after all, warmth melts ice. Knitting and crocheting can be deeply personal forms of self-care, and in overwhelming times, that care becomes its own kind of resistance. Choosing to make something beautiful and warm when the world feels cold is a powerful act.

These deep levels of meaning are common to creative activism. “Crafters have been at the heart of many protest movements,” Mashaal wrote in her initial Instagram post. The red hat project is only one of many artistic responses to the occupation, from music to street art, T-shirts to tattoos, a surge of creativity and community-building in the face of injustice. In the end, how we spend our time and the things we create express the values we believe in and the type of world we want to build. In the end, what we create, creates us.

Note: Despite official statements of a drawdown, the total number of ICE agents remaining in Minnesota is unclear, with ongoing reports of continued ICE activity throughout the state. Further, “The total number of arrests during Operation Metro Surge cannot be independently verified based on information released by the administration.” Many of those disappeared by ICE remain in detention under horrific conditions. For others, even their whereabouts remain unknown. 

We knit on.

Lisa-Anne Bauch is a Minnesota-based folk artist whose work is rooted in the traditional weaving techniques and materials of Sweden, Norway, and Finland, as well as their respective immigrant communities. Her writing has appeared in PieceWorkNorwegian Textile Letter, Väv, and Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot.

The author’s hat. She used the Sisu Designs pattern because she had the correct size needles (5) on hand, and red yarn in her stash.

Everyday Mittens

By Laura Ricketts

Editor’s note: This article originally appeared in Vol. 19, number 2, 2021 of Vesterheim, the beautiful magazine published by Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum..

Everyday Mittens,” by Laura Ricketts.

From the article:

I have chosen three sets of mittens in Vesterheim’s collection to share their stories with you. All are everyday mittens belonging to individuals doing their everyday living. It was a difficult decision not to choose the bright and colorful, the embellished and embroidered. Those readily catch the eye. But these mittens would have been touched and used daily and relied upon. Their pattern was known, made frequently, and perfected by the skilled craftswomen who wanted to make a mitten just so.

You will find more evidence that mittens are important objects in Norway if you search the Norwegian digital museum site, Digitaltmuseum.no, with the word votter (mittens). More than 2400 records of mittens, or photographs including mittens, come up.
















Mulavotten – The Mula Mitten

This article is based on a study in museum communication at Oslo University College in the spring of 2009. Starting with the theme “Museum – Collection and Communication,” we were to focus on an object that we selected from a collection and about which we wished to communicate to others. Most museums have objects that are not well documented and that have been kept more or less hidden in storage. We could ask questions such as why do we collect, or what kind of values could such collections have? Many objects deserve to be brought to light, but for this thesis I wanted to choose a textile object and decided on a mitten, a “mula” mitten, chosen from the collection of the regional museum in Jæren, Jærmuseet. The mitten appeared in an exhibition about herring fishing, but was gray and anonymous and did not make much of a statement. At the same time it fascinated me, lying there large and spacious, with two thumbs.

Mula mitten from the collection of Jæren Museum. Photo: Ingeborg Nærland Skjærpe. Jærmuseet

I wanted to find out more about such mittens. Why do they look like this? How are they made? And who made them? Good mittens were important for fishing, and it was a lot of work for the women to arrange everything the men needed to bring with them. Could this be conveyed to children so that they would understand it? And could it have any meaning for us today?

What is a mula mitten?

My first encounter with the word was in Hauglandsviså [Haugland’s Song], a song of unknown origin that was released as a record in 1980 by the group “Vind i gardhol” [Wind in the Farmyard]. This song was about someone who does everything backwards when they have to bring in the hay and is played and sung a lot in this area. Although it mentions someone wearing mula mittens it doesn’t say much about what a mula mitten is.

The registration card for the museum says the following: the mitten is made of wool, brownish gray, spøta (knitted) and a little felted. It has two thumbs and was used by herring fishermen. It came to the museum in 1998 together with other things from the estate of Olav O. Nygård, born in 1906 at Bratland in Varhaug.

This was an everyday work mitten. In Jæren, the words spøting and stikking both mean  knitting and are used interchangeably. “Mula mitten” must be a local name and in Jæren it is still in use among older people. Tobias Skretting writes in the book Jæren sing i merg og minne [a book about the Jæren dialect]: “Mula mittens: Home-knitted work mittens that can have one or two thumbs. Those with two have the advantage that they can be turned over and thus distribute the wear. In most work, the mittens wear most in [the palm of] your hand.”

They must have been named because of their appearance, reminiscent of a muzzle on a horse or a cow. In the literature that mention these mittens, they have names such as sjøvottar (sea mittens), fiskjevetter (fish mittens), skålpavette, and lovottar (palm mittens) among others. They were not only used for the herring fishery but also for fishing locally, for the Lofoten fishery and for cod fishing. The word mitten, vott, is found in Old Norwegian as Vottr and in other places as Vettir

Svein Molaug in Vår gamle kystkultur [Our Old Coastal Culture] describes when they were going to go fishing in Lofoten: “They had to have sea mittens, three pairs. The mittens were knitted and well felted.”1 And Gunvor Ingstad Trætteberg writes in the book Skinnhyre og sjøklær [Leather Gear and Sea Clothes] that the fishermen’s work mittens were lovottar. This means that the back of the hand and four fingers fit into the mitten, while the thumb is held separately. She further writes that in western Norway the mittens were called vavette. The word vad means line or fishing line. The mittens had long straps that were wrapped around the wrist. For rowing they used lovottar (palm mittens)or roavottar (rowing mittens). In the 19th century there were two types of mittens in use for fishing: one-thumb mittens and two-thumb mittens. Four pairs of mittens were part of the equipment for a full-time fisherman in Lofoten in 1880, two of each kind.

Fishermen in oilskins and leather gear in Kvæfjord, Troms. Norsk Folkemuseum.

“The northern Norwegian mittens were particularly good, spacious and made of special wool, so when the ‘southerners’ were in Lofoten, they often bought a few pairs of ‘skålpavette,’ as they called them, according to fishermen from Bømlo in Sunnhordland. Skålpavette were large, heavy mittens with plenty of room in them, much wider than other mittens.”2

Many from Jæren travelled far north to fish, so we can assume that clothing has been fairly similar along the entire Norwegian coast, with some quality variations, and that sea mittens is a generic name for all variations.

In most contexts, it is the “fine” examples of an object that are preserved. We have many richly decorated mittens, with beautiful patterns in various techniques for fine use. But not so many useful, practical work clothes have been preserved. They were preferably used until there was nothing left of them. And they had little “value” as a collector’s item in the past. But the mula mitten can be an example of the great diversity and variations in mittens. Annemor Sundbø has been collecting knitted garments for many years. She describes the mittens she has found as follows: 

“… some mittens are specially adapted to the climate and working life, for example sea mittens and palm mittens. They are to be used in snow, rain, salty seas and storms. The mittens were knitted in double size and were felted until they fit the hand. This made them unusually thick and strong. If dipped in water before use, they were also windproof. Wool insulates heat even when wet. Other gloves are clearly made for fine use. They are knitted from very thin yarn…»11

This mitten has been in several different cultural contexts. We can start with the wool from the sheep and the work process from sheep to finished mitten. It can be used as an image of the work the coastal women did in preparation for fishing. Then we can continue to the equipment chest, which shows the quality of the women’s work. The mitten can then tell about fishing, about wind and weather, catch and toil, and its eventual reuse for shore work. Finally, it can end up in a collection of mittens and help to show diversity.

Preparing for fishing

Before the men would set off, there was a lot that had to be done, and there was usually a clear gender division in this work. The men prepared, arranged and procured fishing equipment and the like. The women arranged food and clothing. There were rules for how much each man should bring with him and it was a huge job to get everything ready.

In the book “-Utmed havet” kystkvinners liv og virk 1920–1940  [“–Along the coast” Coastal Women’s Life and Work 1929-1940], which was prepared for the 50th anniversary exhibition of the AOF [Norwegian Workers Education Association], the foreword states: “Women’s daily life and social work have been underestimated and partly hidden in historical writing and research. This is a result of the production system that has placed women and their tasks at the bottom of the ladder in our society, a society that has primarily been characterized by men’s value norms and positions.”

This was in 1981 and fortunately a lot of research and documentation has been done on the subject in the years since. Elin Strøm lets Tora tell the story in her article in the same book: “What chaos it is in January when Father goes cod fishing! Mother is hardly in bed at night. She has to check over and mend all his clothes, and there is a lot of clothing. Huge sweaters and underwear, thick sea boots, sea mittens and wadmal pants. Everything is made of wool. As the saying goes: Cotton does not protect your health.»14

Herring fisherman, 1904. Norsk Folkemuseum.

The sheriff’s report for Sund and Austevoll, 1861–1865, mention the following clothing requirements for a man engaged in the spring herring fishery:

  • 3 shirts
  • 2 vests
  • 3 undershirts
  • 3 overshirts
  • 3 underpants
  • 3 or 4 pairs of socks
  • 1 oiled or leather shirt
  • 1 oiled or leather trousers
  • 1 sou’wester [hat]
  • 1 pair of sea boots
  • 1 pair of shoes
  • 2 pairs of mittens

The number of mittens varies in different lists. Klausen mentions 4–7 pairs of mittens for the Lofoten fishery in addition to small mittens.15

«After used for a time, all mittens became too small and hard like felt. When the fishermen came home in the spring, they were completely worn out and cast aside, looking like a crab claw; new ones had to be made each year.”16

Wool

The mitten can tell us about wool, the material it is made of and the good properties it has. The sources mention the sheep breeds vilsau, utegangarsau, trøndersau and spælsau as well as different names for these breeds with extra qualities of their wool. People stay warm even if their mittens get wet. Natural wool, [untreated with chemicals], will become felted and thicker in use and warmer afterwards and thus these “fish mittens” were also very good afterwards for using in soil cultivation and stone working. In previous times they were really thick, warm and durable. In the book Skinnhyre og sjøklær Gunvor Ingstad Trætteberg writes that sources from the second half of the 18th century and later agree that wool from the vild-fåret (wild sheep, spælsau) was the best wool for sea use. 

Villsauer at Vistnestunet. Photo: Ingeborg Skrudland.

This wool has long, smooth guard hair, which allows water to run off and at the same time provides warmth. The wool that was to be used for sea mittens was taken from the back, and halfway down the thighs and sides of the animal. In western Norway, mittens made of wool combined with horsehair and goat hair were also used. These did not shrink like mittens made of pure wool and did not absorb moisture either. She also mentions dog and fox hair, and mittens made of women’s hair mixed with wool. 

“No mitten was warmer than these.” But for rowing, pure wool rovottar (rowing mittens) pure wool mittens were the best.17 The women gathered their combed out hair and spun it together with wool into yarn. This made extra strong socks and mittens.18 

Nordstrand writes in Kystkvinner; kvardagsportrett frå Hordalandskysten [Coastal Women; Everyday Portraits from the Hordaland Coast] that wool was the most important product from the utegangarsau (primitive sheep) and it was carefully sorted. The animals have long, coarse outer hairs and finer undercoats, fibers very suitable for clothing. The long outer fibers were often collected separately and used to make mittens. This way the fisherman did not freeze even if his hands were wet.19 The grey Trøndelag sheep was called the  sjøvott-sau (sea-mitten sheep) because it was well known for having very good quality wool and making very warm clothing. Undyed wool was used because it was the warmest.

How is the mitten made?

The mitten can be a starting point for telling the whole story from sheep to mitten. We can start with shearing the sheep, carding and spinning the wool, knitting the mitten and finally felting it. This will allow one to visualize how much work was needed to provide warm clothing for the whole family in the past. The oldest mittens were made with nålbinding (knotless netting). Trætteberg did not find any existing nålbinding mittens used for fishing, the preserved specimens are for finer use. Knitting is newer, but known in Norway from at least the 17th century.

“The finished mitten could be up to half a meter long and have a thumb so big that the whole fist could fit in it. A fisherman from Kanstadfjorden, Lødingen in Nordland, said that the mitten his father used was so big that when he was little, his upper body would slide right into the mitten.”20

New sea mittens! This is how mittens look before and after felting. Photo: Bjørnar Pedersen, Helgeland Museum.

Elin Strøm relates: “Ole (9 years old) has to felt sea mittens. A sea mitten is huge when it is finished, and it has two thumbs. Ole puts the mitten in warm water and it shrinks. He then rubs the mitten against a felting board so that it becomes fluffy. A felting board is a wooden board with grooves. It resembles a washboard. Ole has to rub for hours before the mitten is finished. But by then it has become thick and good. Such mittens keep warm even when they are wet.”21

In Det store lappeteppet  [The Great Patchwork Quilt], Clayhills notes that “It could be a matter of life and death. All the clothes had to be extra warm and extra durable. The underwear, the mittens and what the men wore on their feet were literally vital. If their hands froze and went numb, the catch could be lost and the boat capsized. It was woolen garments that made it possible to work despite the cold and wet. …The sea mittens that Lofoten fishing required were truly super mittens. For these, they used the finest wool, spun into thick yarn. They were knitted on coarse needles and made so large that they only fit after they had been felted and thus became strong and dense. There were several ways to felt. Some dipped the mittens in boiling water, smeared them with soft soap and rolled them on a tovfjøl (grooved wooden board). Others folded the tip of the mitten in half and secured it with a piece of thread. When the mittens had felted from use in salt water, they cut off the binding and the mittens were still big enough. Many people carded the mittens on the inside so that they would be extra warm and comfortable.” 

Such mittens often had two thumbs so that they would wear evenly all around. The sailors had to carry several pairs with them on the boat, to replace those that became frozen solid. One way to thaw frozen mittens was to hang them over the edge in the sea.22 

Not everyone liked this type of mitten. The extra thumb got in the way during work. The mittens also became very felted and hard when used on both sides. In Jæren, people started buying the yarn ready-made when the spinning mill came in at the end of the 19th century. 

Who knitted – and when? 

Everyone had to learn the techniques they needed to produce clothing. Grandmothers knitted while they cradled small children. Everyone knitted whenever they could – even when they were out walking or rowing. From the age of seven, the children had to take part in the adults’ working lives. Until the age of ten, both boys and girls lived with their mothers and had roughly the same work tasks. The women usually always had knitting in hand. They fastened the ball of yarn to their clothes with a hook and knitted while they walked. Some men also used their free time to knit. Jørgen Skjæveland from Bjerkreim has described knitting: 

“It was primarily women who knitted, but men could also help in the evenings when they had time… women knitted at all times. They knitted wherever they went, when they went to and from the hayfield and the market square, when they hunted the cows and went to other farms. Then they had the yarn under their left arm. Yes, during the midday break when the men took a nap, the women would often sit and knit. They would knit when they were tending to the food, when they were cooking, when they were sitting and reading the Bible. Often the wives would gather on the farm and sit and talk about other people and knit so much that the needles rattled. They didn’t have to think about the knitting, it happened automatically. Occasionally they would stick the spare fifth needle up in their hair.  They didn’t say they were going for a visit, but that they were going “with the knitting”… In the evenings, the grown-up girls would gather and compete in knitting. They would measure out a certain length of thread and tie a knot, and then see who would reach the knot first. They would sit for so long in the evenings that their eyes would droop and the knitting fall into their laps. Then they put a broken match as a small prop on the eyelid so they couldn’t fall asleep. This was called a “plunntre”. But on Sunday the needles were put to rest, because it was a great sin to knit on a holy day.”23

Knitting for extra income

Some women discovered that there was money to be made from knitting. “The women were happy to trade when it was necessary. Especially those who lived near Bergen could make a few kroner at the town market. They often accompanied the men when they went to the market square to sell fish. The goods sold were butter, eggs, berries and perhaps leather. They also sold socks and mittens… ”24

Grimstvedt, in the article “Spøt til salg, strikking som binæring i Rogaland før 1900” [“Knitting for sale, knitting as a secondary occupation in Rogaland before 1900],” indicates that a lot of knitted goods were traded at the market square in Stavanger. Goods were also sent to Flekkefjord, Kristiansand and Arendal. What is mentioned is often socks, sweaters and hats, but in several places the products are only described as knitted goods. Mittens are mentioned in a list of local products sent to an exhibition of fishing equipment in Boulogne in 1866. Fishing equipment and fishing products were prominent, however out of 57 submitters, ten sent knitted goods. 

Grimstvedt has used a fishing mitten as an illustration for the article, so we can probably assume that they are counted among the knitted goods. Grimstvedt has said that she interviewed Magna Kristine Husebø, born in Sirevåg (12/22/1906). She moved to Jåsund, Tanger when she got married. There she knitted mittens and delivered them to Danielsen Skipshandel [ship chandler] in the 1930s. 

Fishing mittens were knitted large and were felted through use. They often had two thumbs, so that they could be worn on both sides. From Sirevåg it is said that after the mittens were felted for fishing, they were used for stone work. At that time they were called ‘lo-vette’ ”.25

Today

Clayhills ends her book with thoughts about textile work up to the present day. She writes that this is a women’s tradition, and if industry now takes over production, women still continue to create things with their hands. This can take the form of copying ready-made patterns, or through using creative, free imagination. But there is a danger that knowledge and techniques will be forgotten if we do not consciously collect documentation, maintain it, and find new uses for old techniques. She points out that the background must be recorded and that textile techniques and women’s work must be given a greater presence in rural areas and museums. “…all materials are important, they should finally come out of chests and drawers, even those that have never had status or been seen as nice. All pieces must be included in the great patchwork quilt if it is to have the right pattern.”26

New sea mittens! This is how mittens look before and after felting. Photo: Bjørnar Pedersen, Helgeland Museum.

Fortunately judging from my experience, things have changed since then. But there is still much that can be done, and done better. It is equally important to document, film, and collect the lessons to be learned from those who know how to do things in practice.

In recent years, knitting and felting have become relevant again. The technique has been used in many new patterns for slippers, mittens, nissar (elves), scarves, hats, and more. Fashion and clothing designers have made dresses and coats. At the same time, we have knitting cafés as a new alternative to going “with knitting” as they did in the past.

It also seems that sea mitten knitting has experienced a resurgence, as coastal and craft associations have in recent years organized courses in knitting sea mittens. For an exhibition in Vefsn Museum in 2007 called Masker mellom generasjoner [“Stitches Between Generations],” a competition was announced: “Knit sea mittens! The traditional sea mittens were important for fishermen when they were at sea in the old days. But what would they look like if women were to wear them? General Manager at Vefsn Museum, Janicken Olsen, encourages knitters to participate in the competition to knit sea mittens, designed for women.”

Today the tradition has been interrupted, it is “no longer practiced as a holistic connection in one and the same place” according to Amy Lightfoot. She is the American who came to Norway and has taught Norwegians about their own traditions. In the project “Sea Mittens,” she has had to travel to Shetland and the Faroe Islands among other places to gain insight into the connection between sheep farming methods and the production of wool suitable for sea clothing. This also applies to tools and their use in the production of clothing.

“Everyday textiles and their associated craft traditions reflect less visible values. The men’s efforts in Lofoten fishing, and the money they brought home, have been appreciated. But the women and their efforts to equip the men for the very same fishing have only been mentioned and valued in recent years. The women prepared men’s equipment almost all year round, and only the best was good enough. The women at home were also judged by the contents of the chest!»27 

Translation by Katherine Larson
Affiliate Assistant Professor
Department of Scandinavian Studies
University of Washington, Seattle

  • 1  Molaug p. 280
  • 2  Trætteberg p. 162-166
  • 3  Lecture at Oslo University College 19 February 2009
  • 4  Suzanne Keene p.172
  • 5  Gardner p. 189.
  • 6  Falk and Dierking p. 137
  • 7  Hooper-Greenhill p. 21
  • 8  Hooper-Greenhill «Model» p. 35
  • 9  Hooper-Greenhill p. 67
  • 10  Hein p. 73 – 79
  • 11  Sundbø p. 133
  • 12  Sivertsen p. 32
  • 13  Sivertsen p. 116
  • 14  Strøm 1981 p. 15
  • 15  Clause p. 24
  • 16  Trætteberg p. 166
  • 17  Trætteberg p. 163
  • 18  Schrumpf p. 53
  • 19  Nordstrand p. 43
  • 20  Trætteberg pp. 162 – 163
  • 21  Power p. 16
  • 22  Clayhills pp. 83 and 84
  • 23  Grimstvedt pp. 31 – 32
  • 24  Norstrand p. 33
  • 25  Grimsvedt p. 46
  • 26  Clayhills pp. 144 – 147
  • 27  http://www.nfk.no/artikkel.aspx?MId1=582&AId=3714 (Note: this link is dead, 4/8/2026

Arbeidernes Opplysningsforbund. (1981). –Utmed havet: Kystkvinners liv og virke 1920 – 1940. Oslo: Tiden

Blythe, T. (1998). The teaching for understanding guide. San Francisco: Jossey-Bass

Clayhills, H. (1984). Det store lappeteppet: Også ei kvinnehistorie. Oslo: Samlaget

Falk, J. H. & Dierking, L. D. (2000) Learning from museums: Visitors experiences and the making of meaning. American Association for State and Local History book series. Walnut Creek, CA: Altamira

Gardner, H. (2000). The disciplined mind: Beyond facts and standardized tests, the k-12 education that every child deserves. USA: Penguin

Grimstvedt, M. (1983). Spøt til salg: Strikking som binæring I Rogaland før 1900. Årbok for Stavanger Museum. Stavanger: Gjøstein

Hein, G.E. (2004). The constructivist museum. I: Hooper-Greenhill, E. The Educational Role of the Museum. London & New York: Routledge

Helgeland museum. Strikkekonkurranse. Lokalisert på verdsveven 17. april 2009:

Holtet, M. (2006, oktober 06) Grå trøndersau. Norsk Landbruksmuseum. Lokalisert på Verdsveven 27. april 2009.

Hooper-Greenhill, E. (2004). ). Education, communication and interpretation: towards a critical pedagogy in museums. I: The Educational Role of the Museum. London & New York: Routledge

Keene, S. (2005). Fragments of the World: Uses of Museum Collections. Great Britain

Klausen, A. K. (2005). Masker mellom generasjoner: Strikking som husflid, hobby, mote og symbol. Helgeland Museum

Molaug, S. (1985). Vår gamle kystkultur 1-2. Oslo: Dreyer

Nordland Fylkeskommune & Den kulturelle skolesekken. Ivott. Lokalisert på Verdsveven 27. april 2009:

Nordstrand, H. (2000). Kystkvinner: Kvardagsportrett frå Hordalandskysten. Bergen: Eide

Norsk Landbruksmuseum.

Pedersen, R. (2008). Gjenstand og tekst. Tradisjon og fornyelse: Festskrift til Liv Hilde Boe: By og bygd XLI. Oslo: Norsk Folkemuseum

Sivertsen, J. (2002). Vitenskap og rasjonalitet. Oslo: Gyldendal

Schrumpf, E. (1981). Først oppe og sist i seng. Kvinner langs kysten i mellomkrigstida. – Utmed havet: Kystkvinners liv og virke 1920 – 1940. Oslo: Tiden

Shuh, J. H. ((2004). Teaching yourself to teach with objects. I: Hooper-Greenhill, E. The Educational Role of the Museum. London & New York: Routledge

Skretting, T. (1998). Jæren syng i merg og minne. Bryne: Jærbladet

Strøm, E. (1981) Tora forteller. – Utmed havet: Kystkvinners liv og virke 1920 – 1940. Oslo: Tiden

Sundbø, A. (1994). Kvardagsstrikk: Kulturskattar frå fillehaugen. Oslo: Samlaget

Trætteberg, G. I. (1999). Skinnhyre og sjøklær: Fiskarbondens utrustning på 1700- og 1800-tallet. Oslo: Landbruksforlaget

Valberg, L. (2006, november, 06) Strikk sjøvotter. Helgeland Arbeiderblad. Lokalisert 27. april 2009

Grimstvedt, M. Samtale 3.04.2009

Pedersen, R. Førelesing ved Høgskolen i Oslo 18.02.2009

Rogan, B. Førelesing ved Høgskolen i Oslo 19.02.2009

Book Review: Winter Knitting for Little Sweethearts

Winter Knitting for Little Sweethearts: 46 Nordic-Style Patterns for Girls, Boys, and Babies. By Janne Andreassen Hjelmås and Torunn Steinsland. Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 2024.

My super knitter friend Kelly Marshall carefully looked through Winter Knitting as I made us dinner before watching the vice-presidential debate. “Would you like to write a review?” I asked. She showed little interest in that, but proceeded to make several astute comments – hence this “sideways review,” my beginner-knitter writing augmented with comments by expert knitters.

“Look at this.” “Look at this cute pattern down the sleeve. “Look at this cute baby.” Kelly kept up an enthusiastic running commentary as she turned the pages. She was so enthusiastic that her husband chimed in from the couch across the room, “What are you looking at?” It was clear from her tone that many of the projects were very tempting. The photographs are beautiful, and the babies are darling. 

Deciding which darling baby example to show is tough!

The book includes many projects with the cute dinosaur shown above. Other projects feature a deer, “Dottie, who is perhaps a cross between Bambi and Rudolf.”

I’m not a hugely skilled knitter, so I asked her, “What about the patterns? Do they seem clear?” She said she appreciated the fact they are relatively short, without pages of directions that are found in some other knitting books. 

Kelly doesn’t have babies in her family to knit for right now. She wished many of the cute baby patterns were sized for adults, too. There are a handful of adult projects including a cowl, a cap, and two versions of a bobble sweater. You could make this one for an adult and child.

There are instructions for many matching doll clothes. I am always impressed with my friends who can knit or sew doll clothes. One look at this photo lets you understand just how special it would be, totally worth the time.

As a Minnesota mother and grandmother, I’ve done my fair share of bundling small children against the cold. The “Flutter-about Scarf” looks very practical as well as cute. With a slot on one end to tuck in the other end, this scarf would stay in place without being tied in a bulky knot under a child’s chin. 

Winter Knitting is a marvelous compendium of sweaters, caps, onesies, mittens, cowls, and scarves. It is a pleasure to peruse and includes clear instructions. You could order your copy here!

October 2024

Robbie LaFleur is the editor and publisher of the Norwegian Textile Letter.

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk!

Annemor Sundbø’s Latest Book: An Eminent Exploration of Nordic Sweater History

By Mary Skoy

Norway’s Knitted Heritage:  The History, Surprises, and Legacy of Traditional Nordic Sweater Patterns. By Annemor Sundbø. Publisher: Schiffer Craft (May 28, 2023)

book coverIn 2020, Annemor Sundbø won a major Norwegian literary prize—the Sørlandets litteraturepris— for her book Koftearven: Historiske tråder og magiske mønster. In 2023, this extraordinary book was released in English as Norway’s Knitted Heritage: The History, Surprises, and Legacy of Traditional Nordic Sweater Patterns. 

This review appeared in Fædrelandsvennen, a regional newspaper based in Kristiansand, Norway, when the Norwegian version was released in 2019. It provides a nice summary from a Norwegian’s point of view.

The Crown of a Life’s Work

With the book Koftearven, Annemor Sundbø has delivered a work of cultural history, religious history, philosophical history, and much more, and of course, also a knitting book.

It may well be that there will be more books from Annemore Sundbø’s hand, but if that doesn’t happen, then she has crowned her remarkable life’s work with a book that fills me with deep respect. She often repeats that it all started in a “pile of rags,” when she took over Torridal Tweed and Ulldynefabrikk in 1983.

Since then, she has spun threads, woven and knitted, carded and spun, and I mean all the expressions literally and figuratively. Because of course she is a master textile artist. But even more, she is characterized by an almost unruly and unrestrained interest in digging into the past. She also says at the outset that she is not an academic when she writes. And I’m tempted to say thank you and praise her for that assertion. Nothing wrong said about academics. But academics must always be rock-solid and objective in all their conclusions. Annemore Sundbø uses her rich experience with knitted garments in combination with a knowledge of patterns and symbols in textile art to dig deep into the fabrics she mentions.

If I now mention that the knitted “lice” jacket is perhaps the same as Christ’s drops of blood in bishops’ robes and the like, then maybe it sounds a little too fantastic? But not after you have read Sundbø’s adventurous walks in tracks and trails through history.

Night shirts, striped shirts, Fanakofter or Mariuskofter are all part of a tradition that for the reader grows and becomes interesting as they go from chapter to chapter in the voluminous book. We’re stopping by the workhouses in old Kristiansand, the ones older people remember as Handicrafts School and Karl Johans Minde Skole,with pictures for nostalgic recognition. And so we are in Egypt’s pyramids, Hindutemples, Jesus’ seamless robe, Italian altarpieces from the Renaissance, and back into the rag pile, the sweater.

The book is unusually rich in visual material, and the collection of this for Sundbø must have been at least as time-consuming as the writing process. And even as one who doesn’t knit and weave, the book is extremely exciting.

Emil Otto Syvertsen (via https://annemor.com/).

This is a big book. Meg Swanson, renowned knitter, teacher, author, purveyor of knitting supplies and books, and head of Schoolhouse Press writes, “Having known Annemor Sundbø (and the translator Carol Rhoades) for many decades, I should not be surprised by the excellence of this tome, but I am stunned nonetheless! 400 pages with nearly 900 images; I am nearly speechless.”

And the book weighs almost 5 pounds! I mention this to emphasize the grand scale of Annemor Sundbø’s comprehensive and richly illustrated history and analysis of iconic Norwegian sweaters.

Sundbø’s journey as “Norway’s Sweater Detective” came about when she applied for an internship at a “little shoddy factory that recycled wool.”  The owner placed only one condition for her training:  she first had to buy the factory (p. 302). In 1983, sixteen tons of wool rags including several tons of sweaters destined for the shredder entered Annemor Sundbø’s life.

In the introduction to Norway’s Knitted Heritage entitled “I Found, I Found,”  she writes:

During the work of shredding that knitted wool into recycled wool, I wiped out pattern traditions from our knitting heritage.  

The Norwegian sayings “to disappear like a spirit in a rag pile” and “with Handwork the Hands are at the Service of the Spirit” haunted me. They led me to believe that there was a spiritual dimension in the art of hand knitting. I set out on “the tracks of wandering souls.”  The mind game of summoning a spirit or the souls in the sweater heritage awakened in me a hunting instinct. This was followed by a deep dive into the rich source materials I found in over 16 tons of knitted rags…

On this journey, I found miracles in legendary myths, Christian faith in salvation, the magic invulnerability of victory shirts, and star sweaters’ symbolic protection as a means of grace and a free ticket to paradise. Knitted sweaters in our time are a national treasure of Norway, and our sweater heritage is an adventuresome source for the power of creation and knitting happiness (p. 1). 

The clues to what makes up the spirit of Norwegian sweaters are recorded in the 31 chapters. The titles themselves are enticing. For example, Chapter 3: “What Defines a Sweater;” Chapter 7: “Knitting for God and the Fatherland;” Chapter 19: “The Destiny of Sweaters, Nature, and Beings in Mythology and Etymology;” Chapter 28: “Patterns as Chaos Control;” and Chapter 31: “A Key to the Enigma of the Nightshirt.” Readers interested in language history will appreciate Sundbø’s amply-illustrated discussion of the words used to describe what we call “knitting” and “sweaters” today going back to the 16th century.

Each chapter is made up of short essays with illustrations (the book contains almost 900 illustrations), presenting the reader with what Annemor Sundbø has discovered in this journey through her ragpile. 

Here are some highlights from the book:  

(Left) “Finding an authentic sweater offers possibilities for assessing the wool and spinning qualities. In addition, we can see what techniques were used for casting on and binding off as well as being able to study the patten on the shoulders and cuff` .”(p. 85).  (Right)A sweater remnant that served as insulation in a doorframe on a farm. The pattern corresponds to a description of rose or star sweaters, also called “Nordland nightshirts” in advertisements. The night heavens shining stars have been used symbolically in all cultures.” (p. 254).

Annemor and sweaters

“From the moment I decided to save traditional sweaters from being recycled wool, it was only a few days before I was setting aside more than I recycled.” (p. 28).

Nordland sweater

A Norwegian wool knitted star-pattern night sweater (Nordland nightshirt) with decorative ribbons around the neckline. (p. 59).

Dance Chain and Eternity 

dance chain sweater

“Three-leaf clovers are symbolic of the trinity in the Christian belief, but, in folk belief, they represented the life force, vitality, and vigorous growth.  The ring dance can be interpreted as a “mandala,” a decorative circle to keep evil out.” (pp. 340, 341).

  The Tree of Life, Wise Mother, and Art and Craft Tree  

sweaters

“Memories constantly turn back. Life’s wisdom and handwork knowledge are our heirloom silver. Helen Engelstad, rector of the National Teacher’s School in Design, was my “wise mother” in textile history, and I became one of the branches in her “art and craft tree.”…Reminders of her exquisite sense of form have turned up in different variations in the ragpile.  Inspired by a pillow pattern from 1672, Helen Engelstad designed a sweater-jacket in 1939, a pattern heritage that wandered even further in gold and purple to honor her memory.” (p. 328). `

Lice Sweater

“Lice sweaters, a Setesdal tradition, are classic and immortal. The knitted sweaters were a common part of the men’s costume in the valley.  If a new one was knitted for the wedding ceremony, the custom was that one would be buried in the same sweater.” (p. 342).

Many of the model  sweaters presented  in the book include graphed motifs. For adventurous knitters wanting to create their own Norwegian sweaters, Sundbø provides tables of measurements and stitch counts, graphed pattern designs, and 224 snapshots of individual sweaters that were “among the drop-offs“ from the rag pile (pp. 305-314). 

Sundbø writes, “I have tried to recreate knitted sweaters for our time. You can choose the yarn that suits the models on the basis of your measurements, and you can knit the sweaters with shaping you like. The measurement schematics are, therefore, only suggestions.” (p.318). She encourages knitters to “design your knitted garment by choosing patterns from the past and knitting with joyful colors for the future.” (p. 387).

I found her instructions for neck openings particularly useful (pp. 318-319). She explains how to stitch and cut the knitting and then pick up stitches using a crochet hook to then knit a facing. The instructions are clear and smart.

neck shapes

Neck shapes. (p. 319)

From the Pattern Bank: 

The sweaters in the ragpile offered many examples of iconic, traditional Norwegian sweater patterns, among them: dance lines, deer, domestics animals, cross and circle, birds, stars, roses, and zigzags. Sundbø has provided charted patterns in the “Pattern Bank” on pages 371-386 for knitters challenged to design their own sweaters. (So many reindeer!)

Annemore Sundbø writes, II have desired to reach the outer limits for uncovering new sides of our knitting history…..And at the same time, I want the rag scraps to be used as inspiration for new models in our common sweater heritage, so that they can become useful and joyful and bring fortune for all the future.” (p. 304). 

This book is the extraordinary record of Annemor Sundbø, “Sweater Detective” and “Hunter,” discovering, illuminating, and sharing the spirit in the ragpile.

December 2023

Mary Lønning Skoy is a weaver, knitter, and member of the Scandinavian Weavers Study Group at the Weavers Guild of Minnesota.
Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a
donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you!

Embellishment! Fiber Entries at the Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum Exhibit

Embellishment

Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum, Decorah, Iowa
July 6, 2023–January 5, 2024

This special folk art show focuses on the importance of detail in folk art and features 71 pieces by contemporary folk artists from around the country.

The Norwegian Textile Letter regularly features weavings from Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum’s National Exhibition of Folk Art in the Norwegian Tradition. Going forward, the National Exhibition will be held every other summer, and alternate with special themed exhibits like this year’s Embellishment. There were a number of objects in fiber included — wonderfully embellished! Thank you to the staff at Vesterheim for supplying photos and the artists’ statements for us to enjoy a virtual visit. 

 

Laura Berlage. Hayward, Wisconsin.  “Purse of Dreams”

Offering an embroidered bag or purse was a common gift of devotion or courtship. I wanted this purse to have that feeling of specialness and magic. All the elements, from the loom-beaded top with wire warp to the braided handle to the butterfly pin, were in my stash.

I was delighted with embroideries from the 16th and 17th centuries. Inspired by curving, floral designs in crewel and braided goldwork, I couldn’t keep myself from trying it. Little did I know how difficult embroidering on velvet would be! Every element had to first be padded with a felt or corded base, so the embroidery and beadwork could be stitched on top. The process took months. 

I’m a prolific fiber artist and Vesterheim instructor, living and working on my family’s homestead farm in northern Wisconsin. My work delights in the overlap of narrative and visual and bringing ideas into form. Artist website: erindaletapestrystudio.com 

 

Marcia Cook. Decorah, Iowa. “Holiday Vest”

vest

My inspiration for this holiday vest came from a Scandinavian dress. Originally, it was to be all wool except the polyester lining. I soon tired of trying to complete a mirror image. I added silk ribbons, threads, and glass beads and had fun coloring outside the lines. 

I’m a career goldsmith from the Pacific Northwest. I am a maker of my own clothes and started making embellished jackets when I moved from Seattle to Skagway, Alaska, 25 years ago. Travel in Alaska required patience and needlework filled the time. Since moving to Decorah, I’ve become more involved with my Norwegian heritage. I love the swirls and floral patterns in rosemaling. 

 

Janette Gross. Santa Cruz, California. “Chaos to Wisdom” Weaving

Runes have always fascinated me. Rather than carving them in stone, I used soumak (weaving technique) to add texture and embellish my tapestry to tell a story of moving from chaos to wisdom and understanding. I am exploring wedge weave which originated with blankets woven by the Diné Nation (Navajo) in the late 19th century. Wedge weave is woven diagonally which distorts the warp and results in scalloped edges. I add a card-woven edge to further define the scallops and create a neat and even selvedge. I mostly use wool singles, adding an additional twist to better reflect light. 

I naturally dye wool and weave with it but sometimes add silk, cotton, plastic, or whatever is called for in the piece. This is part of my climate change series to encourage others to take care of the planet. I live in Santa Cruz with my husband and dog Finnegan. Social media: janettemgross104

Rune translations:

  1. Chaos/hail/storm
  2. (top) Challenge (bottom) Hopes/ fears/ water
  3. Shield/protection/defense
  4. Trust/faith/support/progress
  5. War/battle/victory/honor/ justice
  6. Vitality/wisdom/understanding

 

Elea Jourdan. Decorah, Iowa. “Northern Lights” Wall Hanging

My wall hanging was inspired by a photo of the northern lights in Norway. I knew the best way for me to express this was with the technique of wet felting. Traditionally, a Scandinavian pile wall hanging would be created by laying down long locks of wool as one is weaving. But my “wet felting” technique starts with a layered strip of merino wool, laid out on a flat table. I proceeded to lay these beautiful locks along the outside of the merino wool and wet it down with warm, soapy water. Then the locks are felted-in with a felting paddle.

I have been a textile and clay artist for the past 30 years. Textiles have been a continuous part of my creative life. I have been influenced by my own Norwegian heritage. My work is a remembrance of our Nordic traditions and folklore, inspiring me to create my distinctive type of art. 

 

Robert Lake & Mary Jane Lake. Viroqua, Wisconsin. “Celebration of Norwegian Rosemaling through Quilting 

quilt

Mary Jane is a quilter and is always looking for inspiration. Finding rosemaled fabric for this project was a dream come true. She combined her knowledge of rosemaling and free-motion quilting to create this wall-hanging. Using the rosemaled fabric as the focal point, she added two borders. Next, she pinned the backing, wool batting, and top together into a sandwich and filled the entire piece with free-motion quilting. The dark red piping in the binding added another embellishment to bring the entire quilt together.  

Robert has been a woodworker for 50 years; he fills their home with beautiful handmade furniture and other wooden objects. He discovered chip carving about 30 years ago and hasn’t stopped since. He created the chip-carved basswood hanger to “top” it all off.

The Lakes moved to Wisconsin 55 years ago to pursue a dream of growing their own food while continuing their careers in education.  Mary Jane was a special education teacher for 34 years and Robert was a guidance counselor. They continue to grow and preserve most of their food today.

 

 

Miranda Moen. Austin, Minnesota. “Hamarvotten Mittens.”

This work follows the Hamarvotten (Hamar mitten) pattern designed by Mette-Gun Nordheim. It depicts the signature arches of Domekirkeruinen, the Hamar Cathedral ruins, which survived the Seven Years War attacks in 1567 and are a present-day icon of the city. While in Hamar, Norway, due to pandemic restrictions, I started to learn to knit. Over the following months, I continued knitting almost every night and through which I found camaraderie with others. Every time I look at this pattern it brings back memories of one of the best years of my life.

I am an architectural designer driven to serve rural communities through cultural heritage research, attainable architecture, and creative projects that ignite economic development. In 2020 I founded MO/EN, a regional design and research practice headquartered in Austin, Minnesota. I was awarded a Fulbright U.S. Student Fellowship to Norway in 2022. Artist website: www.moendesignpractice.com

 

Rosemary Roehl. St. Cloud, Minnesota. “The Dog Days of Summer” Weaving

I find figurative boundweave (creating figures while weaving boundweave or krokbragd) fun to weave. I used bows and fuzzy yarn and French knots to add bees, cardinals, apples, and pesky ladybugs. This weaving was inspired by nature. I am a self-taught weaver focusing on traditional Norwegian weaving. I fell in love with Norwegian weavings during my first trip to an ancestor’s home on the Nordfjord in 1978. 

I started competing in the Vesterheim National Norwegian-American Folk Art Exhibition in 1983. I received a Vesterheim Gold Medal in Rosemaling in 1992. I enjoy exploring different ways to use traditional techniques and color. I taught at St. Cloud State University (MN) in the College of Education and retired in 1997. 

 

Juli Seydell Johnson. Iowa City, Iowa. “Reaching to the Sun” Quilt 

This piece began as a very basic quilt. When done, it was pretty, but didn’t feel “finished.” I was inspired to transform the quilt after painting in the Telemark style in a workshop with Nancy Schmidt. My own designed embellishment for this quilt flowed quickly after a weekend of painting and it grew into a vibrant interpretation of flowers growing toward the sun.

I am an artist who primarily works with textiles. My art is often inspired by nature and everyday activities. I like to make bold interpretations of what I see. I use fun colors that brighten a space and make people smile. I started taking rosemaling classes in 2019 to connect to my Norwegian heritage. The colors, shapes, and techniques have added a new and exciting dimension to my textile work. Artist website: buffalograce.com

 

Renee Thoreson. Rochester, Minnesota. “Hardanger Elegance” 

I love the feminine lines and delicate detail of the pattern. I also love blue, and the master level of skill needed to execute the design. When I heard that the theme this year was “Embellishment,” I just had to add a little glam with the crystals and beads! I hope you like it too!

I am a folk artist who loves all things Norwegian. I have been stitching since I was three years old. It started with lacing cards and progressed to embroidering hens on potholders. I did cross stitch until I ordered hardanger embroidery books from Nordic Needle (Fargo, ND) which then became my new folk art passion. I also love to rosemal and grew my skills here at Vesterheim. My late dad introduced me to wood carving, and we enjoyed classes together at Vesterheim. Engaging in folk arts is my dad’s legacy and one I will pass on.

 

Joshua Torkelson. St. Paul, Minnesota. “Selbu Hat” 

This hat is made using patterns and motifs found on historic examples of mittens and sweaters from the Selbu area of Norway. What I love about these patterns is that they can be found on all clothing, ranging from Sunday best to everyday clothes. Functionally, the colorwork adds two layers of yarn when knit, making the garment twice as warm. The folded brim also gives extra warmth around the ears.

I am a woodcarver, knitter, and folk artist. I have been carving since middle school and find inspiration in historic carvings and patterns. I also began knitting in earnest in 2020 and found a passion for colorwork, particularly Norwegian Selbu motifs. In all my work, I am fascinated by repeated patterns and the elaborate decoration of everyday objects. Instagram: @josh_torkelson 

 

Lisa Torvik. St. Paul, Minnesota. “Kalendar” Weaving

The medieval Baldishol tapestry discovered in a church in Norway in the late 19th century is the inspiration for my piece, “Kalendar.” I used the overall dimensions and decorative framework of the original’s design, which consists of two panels, “April” and “May” showing activities of sowing and warfare, respectively. This is believed to be the surviving fragment of a long frieze depicting all the months of the year. I chose the months of my birthday and my husband’s birthday to showcase elements of our lives and interests and incorporated several different techniques of textile construction and embellishment.

Growing up in Decorah, I was exposed to art and culture and a lot of Norwegian influences. My mother encouraged artistic expression and music and introduced me to knitting and weaving. In high school, I participated in a youth exchange with Valdres, Norway, and it deepened my interest in textile arts and weaving. Higher education and work have delayed my return to the loom for the past 10 years or so. Now I enjoy letting my weaving knowledge develop in new directions. 

 

Robbie LaFleur. Minneapolis, Minnesota. “Post Lockdown: Together Again”   

rug

Rag rugs are common textiles in Scandinavian homes. This rug includes bed sheets from three sources: a sheet from my great-uncle’s time, a decades-old sheet of my own, and thrift store sheets. This rug is a companion to a very different wool krokbragd rug woven during COVID-19 lockdown. This rug was woven as part of a group warp at the Weavers Guild of Minnesota. I truly appreciate the time to be “together again” with fellow weavers, friends, and family. 

I have been following a thread of Scandinavian textiles since I studied weaving at Valdres Husflidskole in Fagernes, Norway, in 1977. I received a Vesterheim Gold Medal in Weaving in 2002. I coordinate the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group and publish the Norwegian Textile Letter (norwegiantextileletter.com). In 2019, I received a fellowship from the American Scandinavian Foundation to study the transparency technique of famed Norwegian tapestry weaver Frida Hansen in Stavanger, Norway. Artist website: robbielafleur.com  

 

The Best of Show Award and Jurors Choice Awards did not include a winner in fiber, but perhaps none could compete with a rosemaled plate including Edvard Munch Skrik heads!

Juror’s Choice: Jerry Johnson, Stoughton, Wisconsin. “My Scream Plate”

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 
August 2023

Book Review: Nina’s Favorite Mittens and Socks from Around Norway by Nina Granlund Sæther

mitten book coverMary Skoy reviews Nina’s Favorite Mittens and Socks from Around Norway

This book  is a compilation of favorite patterns from Nina Granlund Sæther’s two previous books: Mittens from Around Norway (2017) and Socks from Around Norway (2019).

Her extensive research and design work are deeply rooted in the Norwegian tradition.  Here is how she describes her process in the book’s forward entitled “Clothes to Stay Warm”:

“Selbu mittens are extremely lovely and considered almost a national symbol—but it was important to me to also shine a light on lesser known patterns from Halden and Kristiansand in the south and Kautokeino in the north.…I often find myself excited and inspired by patterns from preserved garments, but I’m not compelled to make exact copies. The yarn is typically different, and I tend to play with more colors than were traditionally in use. I’ve also made some adjustments so the mittens and socks will be as easy to work and user-friendly as possible for modern knitters” (p. 4).

In her description of the pattern she calls Caroline Halvorsen’s Mittens, Sæther refers to the classic Knitting Book for Primary School and Home Use written by Caroline Halvorsen, published in 1901, and used in schools in Norway until the 1950s and 1960s:

“Mittens embellished with cables and fans were usually called “bride’s mittens” or “church mittens,” and eventually “Sunday mittens.”  Caroline Halvorsen didn’t write complete instructions for the mittens, but described how to make the cables and fans.  This is my variation on this type of mitten” (p. 45).

Sæther’s instructions are complete and well-illustrated as are all the patterns in the collection. In her introduction to  Vestland Rose Mittens, she writes:

“I began with a well-known rose pattern and played a bit with the petal shapes.The result was an entirely new rose.The cuffs on these mittens were inspired by an old pair of mittens from Voss.The technique of crossing stitches used here was well known in Fana, which is just outside Bergen” (p. 89).

Vestland Rose mittens and a portion of the graph for her “entirely new rose.”

And introducing Snowflake Mittens:  

“All sorts of stars have been widely used as motifs in Norwegian knitting textiles.  The stars featured on the palms of these mittens were often knitted in Selbu and are locally called “spit balls.”  Many Norwegian designers have used snowflakes in their designs and I wanted to make my own snowflakes” (p. 141).

Snowflake mittens

The first chapter of Nina’s Favorite Mittens and Socks from Around Norway is  called “Before You Begin: Tips and Techniques.” Saether has obviously been a teacher (she trained as a craft teacher and taught at the high school level) because she seems able to anticipate questions a knitter might have.  She provides her readers clear explanations, photographs, and charts.  She devotes ten pages to illustrating and explaining heels—the Hourglass heel, gusset heel, band heel with short or long heel flap, and the shaped common heel. 

Some of the heels explained in the book: hourglass heel, gusset heel, and the shaped common heel.

And in another two pages, she explains reinforcing heels and knitting toes. I was amused and agreed with her practical suggestion about knitting heels:  “Ask someone who’s knitted heels before for help or check the internet, where you’ll find many good instructional videos” (p. 12). She also explains Latvian braids, weaving in ends, and thumbs. The individual patterns have special techniques and motifs as well—lace or cabled cuff; two-color ribbing; and birds, cats, moose, pinwheels, and roses.

This book comes alive with full page colorful closeups of forty-four pairs of mittens and socks.  The instructions for the twenty-four mitten patterns and twenty sock patterns are clearly explained in text and photographs, as well as in easy to read charts.  After looking at a knitting book as inspiring as this, I wish I could knit faster.

Nina’s Favorite Mittens and Socks from Around Norway by Nina Granlund Sæther. Trafalgar Square Books (May 2, 2023).  ISBN-13  :  978-1646011643
Mary Skoy is a long-time knitter, as well as an experienced knitting and weaving instructor. She is a frequent contributor to the Norwegian Textile Letter.
Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

Apri 2023

Book Review: Vivian Høxbro’s Knitting Handbook: 8 Schools of Modular Knitting

By Mary Skoy

I first encountered Vivian Høxbro’s clever approach to knitting in her book Domino Knitting (Interweave Press 2002).  That book pushed the boundaries of my understanding of how knitting worked as it explored the interaction of shapes connected to shapes—“modular knitting.”   

I dutifully followed the instructions to learn the domino knitting techniques and ended up with a collection of swatches that doubled as pot holders. I became an immediate fan of Vivian Høxbro when she wrote, ”There is no getting away from the fact that domino knitting is slower but who says that we have to knit quickly?  We knit for the enjoyment today, don’t we?  Who wants something fun to end quickly?  Not I!” She also said: “Be kind to yourself—only the best equipment is good enough.”

In her latest book, Danish knitting expert Høxbro goes beyond domino knitting and explores space and shape in other kinds of modular knitting.  Vivian Høxbro‘s Knitting Handbook: 8 Schools of Modular Knitting is Høxbro’s compilation of techniques and projects for eight different types of modular knitting. Once again, you can learn the techniques by knitting carefully explained swatches which are large enough to be put to use.

Vivian Høxbro’s Knitting Handbook: 8 Schools of Modular Knitting by Vivian Høxbro.  Published by Trafalgar Square Books (April 19, 2022)        ISBN-13: 9781646011353.

The book is divided into 8 “schools” or categories of modular knitting arranged by shape. School 1 is Stripes 2 Squares, 3 Tri-Squares, 4 Right Angles, 5 Staircases, 6 Zigzag, 7 Shells, and 8 Circles. Each “school” comprises 10-14 pages of row by row instructions illustrated with step-by-step photos of the knitting in progress.

An example of Høxbro’s excellent illustrations: the “zig-zag school.”

The directions are clearly written and Høxbro seems to anticipate questions that might arise in the knitting. For example, she tell us: “Just before a color change the edge stitches are very, very small, so here you have to be especially careful when the needle is inserted into the join. You can enlarge the edge stitch with the needle tip and can maintain control if the stitch and ridge count coincide”  (p. 29). This is helpful information for both a beginning knitter and an experienced knitter.

Following each of the eight techniques are patterns for two projects using the technique just presented. Among the projects are patterns to create scarves, shawls, vests, sweaters, and pillow covers. As is always the case in books with patterns, some are appealing and some are not so great. I loved the Shell Top (pictured on the book cover) and was not so fond of the Boomerang Shawl. Of course, that’s very much personal taste. But each pattern is thoroughly explained and well-illustrated.   

Boomerang shawl. Photo taken from the author’s website, viv.dk

The last section of the book is Techniques and Edgings. Here, she illustrates picking up stitches, short rows, changing color in stripes, and weaving in ends. She includes clear photos of i-cord, ribbed, and garter stitch edgings. 

These instructions may not be necessary for an experienced knitter, but  including them makes the book a handy reference for knitters at all levels of experience. She illustrates a way to mark decreases and increases by adding a small rubber band to the stitch to keep track and to make counting easier. This was new to me and a good tip. 

The book welcomes us into the world of Vivian Høxbro’s knitting. She writes in the introduction: “I have never been a fan of the cast on 385 stitches and knit around to the underarms. etc.  …I’d rather be entertained and challenged, and create something you could never find in a store.  I like the knitting process. If you feel that way or you’d like a change of pace from your usual patterns, then this book is for you” (p. 8).

Høxbro suggests spending “a few evenings studying each school, preferably with your knitting friends,  It’s always great to work together so you can help each other.” She writes as if she is speaking to us, inviting us along on this knitting adventure.  

Her stated goal is for knitters to use the book to play and experiment further. She has given us the tools and inspiration we need.

Vivian Høxbro has worked as a knitwear designer for over 35 years, both self-employed and for yarn companies. She has written 12 knitting books, some of which have been published in Norway, Japan, and the USA-including Traditional Danish Sweaters, published in 2019 by Trafalgar Square Books. Since then, she has taught and given lectures in Scandinavia, as well as in the USA and Japan, and is working to make  Denmark’s first knitting museum in Stubbekøbing a reality. Vivian currently resides in Stubbekøbing, Denmark.

Vivian Høxbro‘s Knitting Handbook: 8 Schools of Modular Knitting by Vivian Høxbro.  Published by Trafalgar Square Books (April 19, 2022)        ISBN-13: 9781646011353.

Mary Skoy is a Minnesota-based knitting and weaving instructor who kindly took time from her Christmas gift knitting marathon to share these thoughts.
Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

Book Review: Norwegian Mittens & Gloves, Over 25 Classic Designs

Book Review: Norwegian Mittens & Gloves, Over 25 Classic Designs. By Annemor Sundbo. Trafalgar Books, 2021. 

By Karin Weiberg 

I first bought this book in Norwegian at the Hillesvåg Woolen Mill [Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk] in 2013, during a Textile Tour to Norway with Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum. After a tour of the mill and  lunch, we were delighted to be brought to the store. Every pair of mittens from this book was on display, hanging from the ceiling. I bought the book and some heavier yarn. Later on the bus, I regretted not buying yarn for a specific pair. I often have taken my book from the shelf, looking at all the choices, but never deciding which ones to knit.

Now I have a copy of the new English translation, one I can read! The majority of mittens have an explanation of the symbolism of the design. Will this make my decision of which pair to knit easier or harder?

Annemor Sundbø is the premier authority on symbols in knitting and the history of knitting in Norway. She wrote in the forward that her journey for re-using materials began as a child to find yarn to knit with. She described how she realized the treasure she had after she purchased  a shoddy mill in 1983, Torridal Tweed.*  It came with a mound of knitted goods intended for recycling, knitting done by women over decades. Could they contain the “transmigration of souls,” with codes from the past, in motifs that had power and magic? Annemor takes the reader along in her research into myths, folklore and history. Knitters will become enthralled with the symbolism in Norwegian knitting, as there is much to appreciate in the rose design, animal and bird motifs. I don’t believe she discusses a “snowflake” motif at all. The knitter is encouraged to try designs of her own.

Sundbø includes interesting description of mitten and glove details.

After covering so much background, the next section is about knitting a mitten, referred to as the “anatomy of a mitten.” Different styles of cuffs, palm stitches, and how to knit the thumb and top of a mitten are explained with good detail. The why and how of gloves are explained as well. It is important to read this part of the book because the mitten patterns rely heavily on charts. Adaptations are encouraged. This is also where you find the abbreviations and “how to” instructions.

Next the mitten styles begin. Each mitten has a photograph of the old mitten, and the new in a close-up. There is a sentence or two explaining the symbolism of the motif, the yarn, needles and gauge information. There are yarn resources in the back of the book. (I checked out www.yarnsub.com and found it helpful.) There is a note about floats for color knitting and then you are ready to begin. A crisp font makes for easy reading. As with most charts, I would enlarge my chart for my own use. Please respect copyright and do not share.

A design plucked from her rag pile: a dog joins a Scandinavian star.

I think the best add-on to this book is a chapter called “One Mitten is a Pattern Treasure Trove.” Annemor takes a motif and explains how to knit a coordinating hat, socks and a sweater. You will need to knit a gauge, but the bonus is a table of standard measurement for sweaters–and more exciting, one for mittens and gloves!

This book is a good value for anyone wanting to knit mittens and then go beyond with other knitwear. You can knit mittens with a story, choosing a motif that fits your recipient or YOU. We know Annemor’s journey of Norwegian knitting and textile discovery will continue. I look forward to her next book!

Order the book from the publisher, Trafalgar Books, here

*Read more about Annemor Sundbø’s life and work with the history of knitting in “A Rag Pile, My Lot in Life,” Norwegian Textile Letter, Vol. 22, No. 1, March 2016.

 

Jonna Gjevre: Baldishol Birds to Sheep

By Robbie LaFleur

The artists in the upcoming exhibition, “The Baldishol: A Medieval Tapestry Inspires Contemporary Textiles,” have remarkably varied responses to the inspirational tapestry. They have taken elements of design, color, materials, and story into their own fiber art practices.

Jonna Gjevre pulled in diverse Scandinavian references when planning her Baldishol piece, “An Eye on the Past.” Four birds appear in the original tapestry: three facing forward, and one back. In Jonna’s cushion cover, she uses Norwegian stranded knitting technique to depict four sheep; again, three facing forward, and one turned away. The horned sheep designs are adapted from traditional Icelandic lopapeysa designs. The groups of colored dots around the sheep reference the background in the tapestry. She used natural dyes made from madder, indigo, chamisa, and cota (Navajo tea), echoing the historic dyes used in the tapestry.

Studying the Norwegian tapestry led Jonna to more Norwegian research. Tapestry designs in Gerhard Munthe: Norwegian Pioneer of Modernism sparked background ideas.  She was looking at a collection of mitten patterns from Selbu—selbuvotter—and found a design that echos the wave-like border of the Baldishol. 

Though she grew up in Minnesota, her current home in New Mexico has a strong influence on her work in fiber. The Baldishol and tapestries woven in Medieval Norway used lustrous yarn spun from indigenous spelsau sheep. The breed became nearly extinct, but was revived through conservation efforts. The yarn Jonna used in “Eye on the Past,” 100% Navajo-Churro wool from northern New Mexico, came from an old sheep variety, too. She wrote,  

Having grown up on a sheep farm in northern Minnesota, I’ve long had an interest in the societal significance of wool production and textile arts. In this piece, I’m using naturally dyed wool from Navajo-Churro sheep. Due to culturally imperialistic government interference between 1860 and 1930, this rare, desert-hardy breed was slaughtered in great numbers and nearly rendered extinct. Through the efforts of a few dedicated Diné (Navajo) shepherds and other conservationists, these sheep—deeply significant to Native American communities in the southwest—were saved. The Navajo-Churro Sheep Association was formed in 1986, its aim to protect this rare breed from becoming a memory. 

During her research, Jonna turned up a reference to the Baldishol in another medium, Norwegian postage stamps.

Jonna’s lifelong passion for fiber arts started on a sheep farm in Minnesota, and grew to include a passion for words. With a PhD from the University of Wisconsin, she has taught creative writing in Scotland and film studies in the United States. She wrote a textile-themed novel, Arcanos Unraveled. Perhaps Jonna could take up another homage to the Baldishol Tapestry? A Medieval knight on a dappled horse–there could be a novel there! 

Website: jonnagjevre.com