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Tales of Magical Weavers Keep a Medieval Tapestry Tradition Alive

By Marianne Vedeler, Professor, Cultural History Museum, University of Oslo (UiO), and Lars Mytting, Author

This article was published in Forskersonen.no on November 23, 2022, and translated by Katherine Larson.

A battle is fought in a pictorial tapestry from Oseberg, 9th century. Drawing Stig Saxegaard.

A battle is fought in a pictorial tapestry from Oseberg, 9th century. Drawing Stig Saxegaard.

For over 300 years, stories about the Hekne sisters have been an important part of oral tradition, but no one has found tangible evidence that they actually existed.

In the beginning of the 18th century, a priest named Stockfleth wrote in the Dovre church records that two conjoined sisters from a place called Hekne gave the church a tapestry that they themselves had woven. He called them a monster. Since that time the legend has lived on in Gudbrandsdalen.

The story of the Hekne sisters is connected to a very special form of weaving. Through their textile pictures, local artists brought forth central stories from the Bible as well as chivalric ballads. This manner of telling stories had deep roots in the oral traditions of the Middle Ages. 

A Special Tapestry Tradition in Gudbrandsdal

A special form of tapestry weaving flourished in 17th century Gudbrandsdalen and certain other areas of southern Norway. These were tapestries woven in a technique that likely came from Flanders, but one that developed its own style in Gudbrandsdalen.

The characteristic manner in which figures and patterns were combined, as well as the use of color, make these textiles distinctive and easily recognizable. But it is not only the stories told by these pictorial textiles that make them a living and treasured expression of art.

In the past when stories were to be told in halls and dwelling places, pictorial textiles were well suited to evoke emotions. They showed highlights of the shared stories that everyone knew, and they also served as “memory cues” for the story teller. 

A line runs from the pictorial textiles of the Viking Age Oseberg grave through the Middle Ages and forth to the Renaissance textiles from Gudbrandsdalen. Medieval sagas suggest that pictorial tapestries had a very special role in the story-telling tradition.

In the Lay of Gudrun from the Poetic Edda, Gudrun weaves all of her sorrows into the bloody story of Sigurd the Dragonslayer. In the Orkneyinga Saga, there is a scene in which two skalds compete over who can create the best descriptive verse from the stories depicted in the hall’s tapestries. In this case the weaver and the skald go hand in hand.

Weavers with Unusual Capabilities

In stories from the Middle Ages, weavers are not simply visual story tellers. They often have magical capabilities that can change the course of history. They can see into the future, but also cause ill fortune and sickness, rob people of their wits and strength, open mountains and gravemounds, and even commit murder.

After the Reformation it seems that the connection between magic and tapestry weaving remained. Written records from the end of the 16th century indicate that at least two of the women burned as witches during that time were associated with tapestry weaving.  On the other hand, the Hekne sisters gave their fantastic tapestry to the church so that God would arrange their deaths to be at the same time. And God did in fact do this, writes Stockfleth. Even so there are several hints in the Hekne sisters’ legend that they had almost magical capabilities.

The Hekne Sisters Embodied a Warning

When the priest of Dovre church wrote down the story of the Hekne sisters, he devoted most of his narrative to describing the sisters’ unusual appearance. They each had a head, he says, but only one hand and one foot each. That he called them a monster [et monstrum] is a very important detail, since at that time the word had another meaning. It is derived from monere, which means to warn.

The birth of a malformed child was considered a warning from God, a message that should be meticulously interpreted and decoded. This was part of a common European notion. In early modern Europe, monstrous births found their way into everything from illustrative prints to books about miracles to medical works.  These were extreme creatures, lying at the intersection between human and animal, between man and woman, between one and several. This points back to a pre-Christian symbolism of natural omens that was now interpreted in a new early modern understanding of the world.

The Stories That Kept Each Other Alive

For over 300 years stories of the Hekne sisters were an important part of the oral tradition in Gudbrandsdalen, despite the fact – or perhaps precisely because of the fact – that no one had managed to find tangible evidence that they ever lived. It is striking that many officials of the 18th and 19th centuries, among them Gerhard Schøning, found space to describe the Hekne sisters in otherwise succinct accounts of the Dovre area.

The textile is described in several old records, locally called the Hekne weaving or Hekne decoration. It is not an exaggeration to call this Gudbrandsdalen’s most legendary weaving. It eventually disappeared from the church and became – especially following the travels of antique dealers in the 19th century – an object shrouded by myth.

The description of the subject varies, as does that of the textile’s fate. It may have been sold abroad, perhaps purchased and brought back, possibly switched, or falsified or kept in secret. The stories about the sisters would never have been so enduring if they were not tied to a weaving that had disappeared, just as fascination with the weaving would never have been so strong if it had been made by a person with an ordinary life story. 

What Was the Motif of the Hekne Tapestry?

The oldest sources give us no indication of the motif in the Hekne tapestry, but one of the most influential families of weavers in the area was convinced that it depicted the Biblical story of the Three Wise Men. Women in this family made two weavings with this motif, one in 1860 and another around 1931. This was long after the time when this special tapestry-weaving tradition flourished.

Tapestry from Gudbrandsdalen, 17th century, with the Three Wise Men motif. Photo: National Museum. Full record here.

The “new” tapestries are almost identical, and both are described by the weavers in family records as copies of the Hekne weaving, and with descriptions of the Hekne sisters. Thus the legend of the Hekne sisters lived on through new weavings.

Collective Wonder

The stories of the fantastic weavers from Hekne bring forth actors that otherwise are often silent or rarely seen in the sources. They give a glimpse of skilled craftswomen’s contribution to setting the stage for collective storytelling, and in that way incorporating a continental trend into a local tradition. In this context it makes little difference whether the incredible stories are “true.”

The legend of the Hekne sisters and the surviving tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen are sources of both wonder and new knowledge about the past. They are our common cultural heritage. What is more natural then to bring them forth in the light and look at them from several angles at the same time? Searching out the sources and discussing them with curiosity can provide an opening for both stories and research.

Marianne Vedeler holds a position as Professor in Archaeology at the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo. Her primary area of research is the Viking Age and late medieval periods in Scandinavia.
Translated in April, 2023, by Katherine Larson, Affiliate Assistant Professor,
Department of Scandinavian Studies, University of Washington, Seattle

Editor’s note: Lars Mytting wove the story of the Hekne sisters into his novel, The Bell in the Lake. Listen to a Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum bokprat [book talk] with the author and Dr. Maren Johnson, Luther College’s Associate Professor of Nordic Studies and Torgerson Center for Nordic Studies Director. View on YouTube

For a more detailed investigation of Norwegian historical tapestry, storytelling, and the legend of the Hekne sisters, see Marianne Vedeler’s article: Gudbrandsdalen Tapestries and the Story of the Hekne Sisters.

October 2023; originally published October, 2022

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

 

Nordic News and Notes: October 2023

A Finnish Weaver in Michigan Inspires her Granddaughter to Study Rya in Finland

Studying Rya Rug Weaving at Omnia, Espoo Adult Education Centre.” A blog post from Omnia, the Joint Authority of Education in the Espoo region, Finland. October 2, 2023.

Lisa Wiitala from the very Finnish-American town of Hancock, Michigan, studied rya rug weaving at Espoo Adult Education Centre’s weaving studio in the summer of 2023, with support from the American Scandinavian Foundation. Her grandmother was a weaver of rag rugs, but never passed on her skills to her granddaughter. Now Lisa has learned to weave and traveled to Finland to expand for expertise and inspiration.

From the post: “At the start of August I arrived in Tapiola to begin my studies at Omnia, Espoo Adult Education Centre, using a Finnish-made Toika loom generously lent to me by the Weaving Studio. For three weeks I studied with Ulla Karsikas, learning different ways to create a design template, how to choose yarns and color combinations that blend well and achieve the right density, and how to properly finish a rug after being removed from the loom. I also learned to weave a rya in a shape other than rectangular, and how to use different lengths of yarn to create a transitioning of height along the surface. During my time at Omnia, I wove a total of three ryas – I tied a lot of knots in a short amount of time!”

A Norwegian Cat in Love with Knitting

Perhaps you have owned a cat who likes to bring rewards to your doorstep, a baby mouse, perhaps – but probably not hand-knit mittens. The story of Siri, the kleptomaniac cat, was described in the Norwegian media earlier this summer, in Aftenposten and NRK. You can meet Siri in this one-minute video (Scroll down a bit in the article.) It is in Norwegian. You could largely get the point even without a translation, but here are the titles that appear, in English translation.

Meet: Kleptokatt Siri. Tone Lund, cat owner. “She is especially interested in wool clothing. She came home first with a Selbu mitten. I didn’t know it was her who showed up with it. But then another one came. Then it was like they came one after the other. And I didn’t know where she got them.” Siri has built up a large collection of mittens. “In all there are 12 mittens, a knitting project with knitting needles, and two hot pad holders. I am sitting with them and wonder who is missing them. It’s begun to be embarassing. I’ve begun to feel like a thief myself, having these things I don’t own.” Where do the mittens come from? “No, unfortunately I haven’t found the owner, But I really hope the owner turns up. Then she will get back all the beautiful things she knitted. If there is anyone out there who has knitted Selbu mittens and can’t find them, there are here in my house.”

An American Weaver Helps Save an Old Swedish Loom

tape loom

Judy Larson also helped restore an old Swedish tape loom

Swedish Loom Restoration at Gammelgården.” Lisa-Anne Bauch. Scandinavian Weavers Study Group Blog, July 7, 2023. 

From the post: “Scandia, Minnesota is the site of the first Swedish settlement in Minnesota. Gammelgården Museum in Scandia helps preserve this history … while celebrating the stories of all immigrants and their communities. On the second floor of the Välkommen Hus, there is an old floor loom. The loom was made in Sweden by a father with the intention that it would go to America with his daughter and her husband who would leave shortly after their wedding. The year 1879 is painted on the loom.”

Judy Larson, from the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group, brought the loom to working order and taught the museum volunteers how to help visitors try out the loom.  She said, “I reset the worm gear rotation wheel to engage correctly, and then got the treadle cords and heddle cords to pull evenly and adjusted the reed height to get a better shed. The loom was now functional, and weaving could happen.”

The Scandinavian Weavers Study Group Experiments with Telemarksteppe Technique

telemarksteppe

Telemarksteppe by Melba Granlund

Telemarksteppe Project.” Lisa-Anne Bauch. Scandinavian Weavers Study Group Blog, July 4, 2023. 

The Scandinavian Weavers Study Group of the Weavers Guild of Minnesota warped a Glimakra loom for a group project. It was the group’s first warp set up in the new home of the Weavers Guild of Minnesota, the Open Book building in Minneapolis. It was a joy to work in this bright space and also have the opportunity to demonstrate weaving Telemarksteppe to visiting students, guests, and Guild members. People were especially interested in the loops left on the edges of the pieces, which is traditional to this Norwegian technique.

Pop-up Exhibit of the Scandinavian Weavers Study Group in Minnesota

Jan Mostrom pillow

Swedish Art Weaves pillow by Jan Mostrom

“Scandinavian Showcase” at Weavers Guild of Minnesota.” Scandinavian Weavers Study Group Blog, July 2, 2023. 

In connection with a Scandinavian weaving workshop at the Weavers guild of Minnesota, the Scandinavian Weavers Study Group held an open house. The wide range of weaving brought by members for a pop-up display was remarkable, and visitors were very interested in several demonstrations underway. See more photos of the pop-up exhibit in the post.

 

Exhibit in Norway

Alt Henger Sammen: Billedvev [Everything Hangs Together: Tapestry] Nelly Aasberg. Veien Kulturminnepark, Hønefoss, Norway. October 1-.

The artist statement: “Everything together” is an exhibition that holds experiences and impressions from nature. It’s everything from forests, mountains, plains, marshes, trees, plants and even small seeds and soil.
Everything has a connection, a reason, and an end that in turn gives life. People, animal life, insects, nature – Everything has a connection. The loom is connected with warp and weft – warp and yarn… I am a tapestry weaver and painter; one does not exclude the other. Nelly Aasberg.” Nelly Aasberg Instagram: @nellyaasberg. Nelly Aasberg Art Facebook: Nelly Aasberg Art.

Exhibit in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

The American Swedish Historical Museum is honored to debut the artistic work of Karin Larsson for the first time in America! Immersed in the world of the Swedish countryside, Karin Larsson’s work in the textile arts, furniture construction, and interior design reflect her artistic training, curiosity, innovation, and openness to the emerging trends facing life in the late 1800s. Karin’s contributions to the prevailing art movements like Art Nouveau, the Arts and Crafts style, and regional folk techniques, are distinguished by her boldness, simplicity, and taste for abstraction. Karin embraced new methods while embroidering, weaving, knitting, crocheting, making lace, sewing clothes, and producing tapestries for the home she shared with her children and husband, the celebrated painter Carl Larsson.  Read more…

Exhibit in Red Wing, Minnesota

Click on the image for a pdf version

Domestic to Decorative: The Evolution of Nordic Weaving. Red Wing Arts Depot Gallery, 418 Levee St., Red Wing, Minnesota. October 27 – December 24, 2023.

Woven textiles from Nordic countries evolved over the centuries into an acclaimed decorative art, both in the home countries of Norway, Sweden, and Finland and wherever immigrants traveled. The Scandinavian Weavers Study Group of the Weavers Guild of Minnesota traces this journey in the curated exhibition “Domestic to Decorative: The Evolution of Nordic Weaving,” as each of the twenty weavers present a personal take on the theme. Some are inspired by treasured family heirlooms and traditional techniques, others by the possibilities of modern looms and materials. The exhibit will include demonstrations of weaving and spinning.

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

Burning the Midnight Oil in Bergen

By Peg Hansen 

I happily studied weaving at the University of Wisconsin, River Falls, in the 1980s. I had no idea what a long interruption my fiber work would have as I started my career as a Red Wing High School art instructor. I took a refresher warping class in 2012,  but still my weaving stood still. In the meantime I sewed a Beltestakk bunad and started to explore band weaving. Frankly,  I was surprised I was so rusty.

Peg Hanson’s bunad pieces.

Peg Hansen’s handwoven hairpiece.

During Covid isolation I joined the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group. What an amazing group (even if my first meetings were only on zoom)! The conversations were familiar, but my skills weren’t  there anymore. When group member Melba Granlund planned a post-pandemic trip to Norway for a week of study in Bergen with Ingebjørg Mønsen this year, I cast my doubts aside and signed up. What a great decision!

All of the participants seemed to already know so much. I was open to learning whatever I could, so I went with the flow. I did a dreiel sample and really enjoyed it. But then, it appeared that nobody wanted to weave on the blanket warp so Ingebjørg assigned me. This would be totally new to me and I assumed I would weave a sample and be on to another loom. Ingebjørg had other ideas. Periodically I would say I was ready to move on, but each day she would say, “Weave more.” On Wednesday I wove until 10 at night and thought surely that one meter was enough. Oh, no…I ended up returning to the hotel at 2 AM! Ingebjørg stayed with me until I had a complete blanket – in just 4 days – complete with unweaving many times.

My finished Norwegian wool (Ask) twill blanket is 157×135 cm plus a beautiful fringe.

I think that Ingebjørg could sense that, as an eager learner, I had pulled many all-nighters in the past with art projects I found irresistible. I am incredibly happy that I can wrap up in my wonderful Norwegian experience on this side of the Atlantic.

Peg Hansen, October 2023

Peg Hansen, From Red Wing, Minnesota, has been working with fiber for over fifty years. She learned to sew on her own in the eighth grade, in order to make clothing to fit her tall frame. Her first degree was in Home Economics. Since retiring from teaching in 2010, Peg has concentrated on fiber pursuits, with increasing attention to Norwegian textiles. She is happy to be at her loom again, after a hiatus since her study in the 1980s, and enjoys projects with colleagues through the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group. 

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk!

From England to Norway: The 2023 Vesterheim Textile Study Tour

By Edi Thorstensson and Karen Weiberg 

Our 2023 Vesterheim Textile Tour began in London on May 8, two days after the coronation of King Charles III, while the city was filled with celebration. There we visited Marble Arch and enjoyed a stroll along Oxford Street, with its iconic Selfridges Department Store.

The second day brought us to the Victoria and Albert Museum, where we were guided through historical displays of fashion worn in the United Kingdom and elsewhere and had time to explore other exhibits, among them one devoted to William Morris, legendary textile designer associated with the British Arts and Crafts movement.

Next, we were welcomed to the atelier of Hand & Lock, custom embroiderers to the Royal Family, England’s military, and fashion houses.

Traveling on to Yorkshire, we arrived in the lovely, ancient city of York, where we visited magnificent York Minster Cathedral, one of Europe’s oldest and largest cathedrals, and were given an excellent hands-on introduction to the cathedral’s textiles by members of the York Minster Broderers, skilled volunteers who embroider cloth and make vestments for use in worship and for display.

Reserved chapel seating and a detail from an embroidered panel.

The following day, master designer and knitter Angharad Thomas, who has specialized in the Scottish Sanquhar knitted glove, and her colleague from the Knitting and Crochet Guild, Barbara Smith, gave a most interesting and entertaining trunk show of pieces from the Guild’s more than 2,000 items. Once again, we were welcomed to touch and examine vintage pieces, ask questions, and learn from delightful, knowledgeable women.

Above, Angharad Thomas and Barbara Smith. Below: Sanquhar gloves.

On May 12 we boarded a plane in Manchester and flew to Trondheim to begin the Norwegian leg of our journey.  Trøndelag, with Trondheim as its center, is known for its rich agriculture, traditions, and distinctive textile arts. First, we visited Berit Bjerkem’s studio at Henning, where Nord Trøndelag bunader from the 1750s to 1830s are documented, displayed, and re-created for sale. Bjerkem has been recognized by King Harald for her work.

Berit Bjerkem’s modern reproductions of traditional Nord Trøndelag’s bunader.

The next day, May 14, we met Anne Bårdsgård, who has collected, registered, and graphed traditional local knitting patterns for her book, Selbu Mittens (Trafalgar Square, 2019, available from the Vesterheim Norwegian-American store). Anne’s presentation was a valuable introduction to what we were about to witness, the overwhelming number and quality of vintage and modern examples of beautiful Selbu knitting on display in the Selbu Bygdemuseum.

Leaving Trondheim May 15, we traveled by bus to Sandane, Nordfjord, and settled into our grand old hotel, Gloppen.

In Sandane we visited the Nordfjord Folkemuseum and enjoyed an introduction to textile production in local coastal and inland communities. Museum staff had prepared fine displays for us to enjoy, among them local traditional clothing from earlier eras.

Man’s bunad with multiple handwoven and knitted garments.

Also displayed was a colorful assortment of vintage bukseseler, men’s suspenders, one of which served as the model for the tour group’s embroidery project.

Left: Buksesele in the Nordford Folkemuseum collection. Right: Tammy Barclay’s finished project.

Along the way from Sandane to Bergen, we stopped at the home of beloved Norwegian artist Nikolai Astrup (1880-1928) and his wife Engel. Perched above the fjord, this homestead, Astruptunet, in Jølster, has been preserved as a cultural site and museum.

astruptunet

Kitchen interior and view to the water at Astruptunet.

From Jølster our bus took us through the beautiful, dramatic mountains to Lom, then down to Sognefjord, and on to Bergen, where Syttende Mai, Norway’s Constitution Day, is celebrated with enthusiasm! And bunads!

We wrapped up on May 18 with a visit to Bergen Husflidslag’s studio, where artist Åse Eriksen gave an illustrated presentation on samitum, a weft-patterned twill used in historic textiles. We enjoyed, as well, a talk about Norwegian bunad jewelry from Sylvsmidja’s Anne Kari Salbu.

How precarious it felt, for some of us, to venture overseas after the pandemic, to take a chance that all would be safe and good. Vesterheim’s Laurann Gilbertson and Andrew Ellingsen and Norwegian tour guide Ingebjørg Monsen took us on a wonderful adventure, opening our minds and providing us with access to rich textile resources. Enjoying the sights, sounds, and, above all people in England and Norway was an affirmation of what good textile study tours are all about: Camaraderie, learning, and inspiration.

Karen Weiberg and Edi Thorstensson, 2023

Edi Thorstensson is a retired librarian and archivist who has appreciated the history and creation of Scandinavian textiles since her first visit to Europe in 1961. She is a member of the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group and the Pioneer Spinners and Fiber Artists guild.  She lives in St. Peter, Minnesota, with her husband Roland and Icelandic sheep dog Ára.
Karen Weiberg has been a member of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum for many years; this was her fifth Vesterheim Textile Tour.  She had a career in textiles, including owning a yarn shop, and now enjoys traveling, often with textiles as a theme. Karen teaches a variety of classes at the Textile Center of Minnesota, and volunteers in the Textile Center Library. She participates in three knitting groups, including one at Norway House and another she has been part of for over 30 years.

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk!

Gudbrandsdalen Tapestries and the Story of the Hekne Sisters

By Marianne Vedeler, Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo (UiO)

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published as “Billedtepper fra Gudbrandsdalen og sagnet om Heknesøstrene” in Viking: Norsk Arkeologisk Aarbok [Viking: Norwegian Archaeological Yearbook], Vol. 86, No. 1, 2022, and is translated and reprinted with permission. A print-friendly pdf version is here.

Abstract: An intriguing combination of tapestry weave, legend and myth arose in Gudbrandsdalen in the 17th century. The legend about the conjoined twin master weavers is still living as a local story, and is now being conveyed to an international audience through novels written by Lars Mytting. The legend is tightly connected to a distinct form of tapestry weave, depicting biblical stories and narratives rooted in medieval poetry. The traditional interaction between visual and oral storytelling might be an important key to understanding the textiles. Visual stories told through tapestries have a long tradition in Norway, traceable from the 9th century tapestries from the Oseberg Viking ship grave on to the tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen. The legends about the extraordinary weavers that created tapestries in Gudbrandsdalen provide an extra dimension, linking the idea of conjoined twins as creatures of paradox with the pre-Christian tradition of natural signs that had to be de-coded.

In the 17th and 18th centuries a distinctive form of storytelling flourished in Gudbrandsdalen. In pictures conveyed through textiles, local artists brought to life stories from the Bible, but also from chivalric ballads from the Middle Ages. Along with these stories grew tales of fantastical weavers and their almost magical capabilities. One of these tales is the legend of the conjoined twins from Hekne in Dovre.

The weavers created visual stories that helped those in their local community understand themselves and the times in which they lived. But this form of textile storytelling and the artists who created them are part of a deeper storytelling tradition that stretches back to the Viking Age.

But is it appropriate to draw parallels between the tapestries of the Viking Age and those from Gudbrandsdalen? What was actually written down about the remarkable conjoined master weavers from Hekne in the 18th century? And how does the story of the Hekne sisters relate to the quite special tapestry tradition of Gudbrandsdalen? If one looks more closely at the connection between these questions, historical and archaeological sources provide a picture of a storytelling tradition with deep historical roots, where the blending of handcraft, legend and myth form an entirety.

The legend of the conjoined sisters

In the novels The Bell in the Lake and The Reindeer Hunters [Søsterklokkene and Hekneveven], author Lars Mytting brings forth the story of two conjoined master weavers from Dovre (Mytting 2018, 2020). The legend of the Hekne sisters has been known and loved in Gudbrandsdalen since the early 18th century and perhaps earlier. As with all good stories it has been passed along in the oral tradition for many generations, and over time has been changed and developed. But in addition to the oral tradition, there are also a number of early written accounts of the legend.

One of the sources for the two-sisters legend is Gerhard Schøning’s well-known travelogue from the 1770s. In the years 1773–1775, historian Schøning traveled over Dovre [Dovrefjell, a mountain range in central Norway] and down through Gudbrandsdalen, a journey that would later be remembered through the book Reise som giennem en Deel af Norge i de Aar 1773, 1774, 1775 paa Hans Majestets Kongens Bekostning er giort og beskreven [A journey through a part of Norway in the year 1773, 1774, 1775 at His Majesty’s Expense is undertaken and described]. It is here that we become acquainted with the extraordinary conjoined weavers, later known as the Hekne sisters.

This is how Schøning describes them:

In Dofre church there used to be an Aaklæde [coverlet], or a so called Huusbona [household textile], remarkable because it had been woven and presented to the church by two sisters, who were born conjoined such that they each had only one hand and one foot, but a 2nd neck and a 2nd head, which spoke for themselves as well as ate and drank for themselves. They created the aforementioned textile, and presented it to the aforementioned church, so that God should allow them to die at the same time. Their prayers were heard. They could go and accomplish whatever they wished. One’s name was Giertrud (Schøning 1980:30).

A decade later, in 1785, the priest and adventurer Hugo Friderich Hiorthøy repeats the same story in his Physisk og Ekonomisk Beskrivelse over Gulbrandsdalens Provstie [Physical and Economic Description of Gudbrandsdalen Parish]. But he adds an important piece of information: The parents of the twin sisters “were supposed to have lived above the Lie farm in a house close to Graaberge called Hechtner” (Hiorthøy 1990).

On the slope above the Lie farm in Dombås there is in fact a place named Gråberget. If one stands in the farmyard and looks upwards and to the right of Gråberg one sees a place that on the map is called Hekne. This matches almost exactly with Hiorthøy’s description, but these days that location is crossed daily by the Olso–Trondheim train, whose tracks travel right over the old farm site.

The legend says that the woven artistry of the Hekne sisters was so fantastic that by presenting one of their tapestries to the church, they were granted their last wish by God. According to Schøning’s description, they were allowed to die at the same time. How long had the legend existed as an oral tradition in his time? He himself says that it is an old story. Gerhard Schøning possibly got the story from a priest who had worked in the parish a generation and a half earlier. Niels Olesen Stockfleth was the priest in Lesja from 1724 to 1745. In the Lesja church record book he noted down a list of the church’s possessions, and a separate section is devoted to the Dovre church annex for the year 1732. That is where we find the oldest description of the story of the two weavers, in a version that combines information from both Schøning and Hiorthøy (Stockfleth 1732).1

A portion of Stockfeth’s description of the Hekne sisters, in the Kallsbok [parish register] for Dovre Annex, National Archive of Norway, Hamar, May 2022. Lesja priest archive OA.

Since the legend of the Hekne sisters was recorded by the priest Stockfleth in an inventory list, it must mean that he believed the story described real people who lived at some time during the 17th century. But at that time, no textile of any kind could have been given to the church that we know as Dovre church today. This church, with its characteristic slate slabs, first came into use in 1736 and was formally consecrated in 1740. All indications are that Stockfleth himself participated in its planning. But before that there was another church located a short distance away, between the farms Skjelstad and Bergseng. That church was probably built around the year 1400, but by the end of the 17th century it had become unsound and in constant need of repair. In Stockfleth’s time it was in danger of collapsing, and it was torn down when the new church came into use in 1736 (SAH Kirkestol for Lesja; Tallerås 1978:12-13).

At the little medieval church there was supposed to be a holy spring, and it was so well-known that it was mentioned by the parish priest in the church’s records. This is one of many so-called Olav springs, a healing source of water tied to St. Olav. The Pilgrims Route to Nidaros went past Bergseng (Werner 1998:37).

We will probably never know how much of the legend of the Hekne sisters is based on a true story. We do not know whether there were conjoined twins in Dovre at that time, or whether there could have been two sisters who wove masterworks together on a wide loom, or even what type of textiles these could have been. The earliest sources mention nothing about the appearance of the textile, other than that it was a coverlet, or a “husbunad,” which is a form of interior textile. But regardless, it is probably not coincidental that the story originates in the 17th century, and that the setting where the drama takes place is exactly northern Gudbrandsdalen. From the first part of the 17th century and for approximately one hundred years going forward, there developed a completely special form of tapestry in this area. It was especially in the 17th century that this reached its artistic highpoint, but evidence of the weaving tradition and the legends surrounding it have lived on right up to modern times.

Later the legend of the Hekne sisters was to have consequences not only for the reputation of the tapestry weavers in northern Gudbrandsdalen, but also for the economy of the surrounding communities living nearly 300 years later.

The tapestry art of Gudbrandsdalen

In the 17th century a distinctive manner of weaving tapestries flourished in Gudbrandsdalen and in certain other areas of eastern and western Norway. Many of the tapestries that had exceptional technical and artistic qualities came from the northern part of Gudbrandsdalen. It is likely that this was a core area for this type of tapestry weaving, and many of the really capable weavers who wove such tapestries seem to have been located there.

The Gudbrandsdalen tapestries were woven in the gobelin technique, which probably came to Norway from Flanders and surrounding areas at the end of the 16th century (Sjøvold 1976:24). In records and probate documents from this period, this weaving technique was called flamskvev [Flemish-weave], likely because of professional weavers who brought the technique with them from Flanders. It is also possible that the special Flemish loom came with them. This loom resembles the warp-weighted loom, but in contrast to the latter it has both a top and a bottom beam, and one weaves from the bottom upwards instead of the opposite. However, there is nothing preventing one from weaving tapestry in the gobelin technique on the old warp-weighted loom, as described by Marta Hoffmann in The Warp-Weighted Loom (Hoffmann 1964). Quite the opposite, it is probable that tapestries from both the Oseberg find, a grave from the 9th century, and the somewhat more recent Baldsishol tapestry were woven on such a loom. Oral tradition in Gudbrandsdalen also possibly indicates that some tapestries could have been woven on the traditional warp-weighted loom in more recent times (Bøe 1961:74-75).

Notched edges along a vertical slit. Detail from a version of The Three Wise Men tapestry, (full record)

When one weaves in the gobelin technique, the warp threads are completely covered by the weft threads, the latter of which are inserted in their own separate pattern areas. Different methods can be used to avoid the development of slits between the separate pattern areas. One can either interlock the wefts with each other between two warp threads (with a double or single interlock), or the wefts can be wrapped around a common warp threads without interlocking with each other (Sjøvold 1976:86). To avoid slits between pattern areas, the Gudbrandsdalen tapestry weavers instead utilized a distinctive notching technique. Where the pattern areas meet, the weft on each side is moved forth and back by one warp thread on either side of the division, and in this way the fabric is “closed” (Sjøvold 1976:86, Cyrus- Zetterström 1983). This creates small shifts in the color and pattern that look like small “notches.”

This distinctive notching technique for weaving together figures and patterns, combined with the use of color and pattern, gives these tapestries a characteristic appearance that is easily recognizable. But it is not only the pictorial stories told by the tapestries that have made them into vivid and treasured expressions of art. Over the years many of Norway’s larger museums have secured tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen as well as from certain other areas in eastern Norway.

There are somewhat different opinions on just when Flemish tapestry weaving became popular in Gudsbrandsdalen. Some have maintained that the oldest tapestries were made at the beginning of the 17th century (a woven date as old as 1613 is found in some, Kielland 1955), while others believe that we have no certain evidence for tapestry production of this type before the year 1700 (Sjøvold 1976:45). That last is not correct. Existing probate documents from Gudbrandsdalen indicate that the description “Flemish cloth,” with the meaning of Flemish-weave, was in use in this area at least as early as 1658, when such a textile was part of the estate for the large farm Tofte in Sør-Fron (Engelstad 1956:121). Unfortunately, there are no preserved probate records for the first half of the 17th century.

Many of the oldest tapestries have figures that are wearing old fashioned ruffs [pleated collars], the women wearing straight overhanging bodices above a parted skirt, with long moderate sleeves and shoulder accents. This was typical Renaissance dress that points to the first half of the 17th century. The figures in the oldest tapestries have individual expressions, living their own lives, and each of them are different. The foolish virgins cry openly, while the wise triumphantly hold high their shining lanterns. In the background can be seen towers, houses, columns and stone walls.

This Wise and Foolish Virgins tapestry owned by the Minneapolis Institute of Arts is thought to have been woven in the 1600s. You can see the city of Jerusalem depicted in the upper row, and the foolish virgins crying into their handkerchiefs. https://collections.artsmia.org/art/670/the-wise-and-foolish-virgins-norway.

By the 18th century the expressions stiffen and become more schematic, until the figures become almost simple rows of pattern, while the background is replaced with decorative geometric patterns. By the end of the 18th century the production of this sort of tapestry is more or less discontinued, even though occasional copies were still made.

Wise and Foolish Virgins tapestry from 1760, owned by the Norsk Folkemuseum. It shows the increasing stylization of the figures after the design became rooted in folk culture. https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023130439/teppe.

The stories presented in these tapestries revolve around a handful of themes. Most take their inspiration from well-known Bible stories: the Wise and Foolish Virgins, the story of the Three Wise Men, of Salome’s dance, King Solomon’s wisdom, the enumeration of Christ’s ancestors and the personification of the virtues, justice and patience (Justitia and Patentia).

The stories of the Virgins and the Three Wise Men were especially popular. Thor B. Kielland claimed to have registered a total of 75 tapestries with the 10 Virgins motif, although unfortunately he did not leave a list (Kielland 1955:68).

Even today the story of the Three Wise Men is one that many are familiar with from the Christmas Gospel, however the story of the Virgins is no longer as well known. In the Gospel of Matthew, Jesus compares the riches of heaven with ten virgins who wait for their bridegroom. They plan to awaken during the night with their oil lamps ready to meet the bridegroom when he comes. All ten take their lamps with them, but only half remember to take extra containers of oil to fill their lamps while they wait. As they wait for the bridegroom they eventually grow tired and fall asleep. In the middle of the night someone calls and wakes them: “The bridegroom is coming, get up and meet him.” They all wake and begin to set their lamps in order, but the virgins who have forgotten to bring extra oil cannot relight their lamps. They have to hurry off to get more oil from a merchant, and so are not there in time for the bridegroom’s arrival. When they do return the door is closed and their chance is lost (Matthew 25:1–13).

Not all of the tapestries portray stories from the Bible. Of those registered, one single tapestry depicts events from a completely separate storytelling tradition, a tradition that points directly to the chivalric ballads of the High Middle Ages. This tapestry is found in the collection of the National Museum (museum number OK 17388). It is woven in red, blue, green and gold, with white contour lines, and the handwork is of high quality. The motifs are placed in four panels, two above and two below. In each of the panels we see a large figure: In the upper left a large stag with remarkable antlers. To the right of this is a horse rearing with a rider on his back. He seems to be greeting the viewers. In the lower panels a sturdy fellow is waving to us from the left, while the right panel is occupied by a snow white deer that is standing on its hind legs. It is turned towards the man and seems to be shoving something narrow in his direction with its forelegs. These motifs are likely taken from the story of Guigemar (Kielland 1955), one of the medieval romantic tales of chivalry. This is one of the courtly tales that are part of the collection Strengleikar (Old Norse Ljóðabók), a translation of French lais into Old Norse that was ordered by Håkon Håkonsson in the mid 13th century for use at the Norwegian court (Budal 2009).

Guiamars sagn, Nasjonalmuseet. (full record).

One day, the greatest and most handsome knight in France went out for a hunt. This is Guigemar from Brittany. He is a charming heartbreaker, for he cares for none of the women who have offered him their heart. It seems that he is incapable of loving anyone. When he comes out into the forest, he sees a large stag, and just after that a snow white hind comes into view with a twig between its antlers. The knight Guigemar strings his bow and shoots the white hind. She falls, but immediately the arrow turns and comes whizzing back at him. It buries itself in his thigh and down he falls beside the hind. Then the hind turns to him and suddenly he understands what she is saying. There is a threat in her voice. You have done me harm, she says, and because you have wounded me, you shall endure a cruel fate. Soon you will meet a woman who you will truly love, but she will cause you greater pain and heartache than any woman has endured for your sake. And she shall also suffer on account of you. You and she shall suffer so much that everyone who has ever loved or shall ever come to love will wonder that you could bear such great sorrow. And never will your wound heal until you are finally with one another.

After that Guigemar did not know what to do with himself. He roamed far and wide, and at last he came to a beach where a strange ship lay. He went onboard and immediately fell asleep, after which things transpired as they were meant to. The ship entered an unfamiliar port where Guigemar met the beautiful young wife of the chieftain of that place. He fell hopelessly in love with her and she with him. After much sorrow and pain, and separation and loss, they are finally together and his wound can begin to heal (Rytter 1962:37-54).

The vivid figures, colors and lush floral background indicate that the Guigemar tapestry was made before 1700. The initials IOS, woven into the lower portion, could be either those of the weaver or of the owner. There are no firm details about where this tapestry was made. However, Kielland has argued that it was probably woven in northern Gudbrandsdalen in the decades approaching the 1650s. There are good reasons to be a bit careful with such a precise dating, but in any case, the artistic style points towards this being one of the early tapestries, and that it was woven in the 17th century. In the narrower bands that divide the figure panels one finds animal figures that bring to mind opposed lions. Both these and the form of the human figures are reminiscent of several other tapestries that come from northern Gudbrandsdalen (Kielland 1955:64).

Tapestries with motifs from, among others, the Feast of Herod, where Salome dances for the king and receives the head of John the Baptist on a platter, provide similar examples (museum numbers OK 01707, OK 17383, OK 08324, NF 1931-0347). In the first example, an especially well made tapestry from Bøverdal near Lom, we find similarities in the forms of the human figures as well as the same opposed lions as those in the Guigemar tapestry.

Tapestry with a Feast of Herod motif. Nasjonalmuseet. Between 1613 and 1750. Nasjonalmuseet. Full record.

What the tapestries were used for

Traditionally tapestries are closely associated with interior décor. In the Viking Age and the Middle Ages, narrow tapestries in a pictorial weaving technique were hung up on the walls for special occasions. These were often called revler [narrow decorative strips of cloth] (Engelstad 1952:18-19; Vedeler 2019, Vedeler and Pedersen 2020). Later in the Middle Ages and after the Reformation the tradition of hanging variously formatted tapestries for parties and celebrations continued, in churches as well as in private homes. Over time the long and narrow revle form was not as suitable, and tapestries developed into a more rectangular or square format. It has been suggested that this was connected with the introduction of the fireplace and chimney, which produces less smoke in the living area and therefore presented alternative opportunities for the shape of textile wall décor (Hauglid 1956). But the fireplace with chimney has been known in Norway since the Middle Ages, even if they were only in use amongst the rich. In many places of the country people have probably used fireplaces in log homes from the mid 16th century (Solhjell 2007:158-163). In any case, textiles in the tapestry technique have been used both for decoration and insulation on the walls, as cushion covers and as coverlets. There is no doubt that what was called Flemish-weave in the 18th century were textiles for interior décor, often with pictorial motifs.

A source that can indicate what the tapestries were used for is found in surviving probate records. An overview of these documents from northern Gudbrandsdalen for the years 1658 to 1682 reveals that 23 farms owned at least one Flemish-weave textile (Engelstad 1956:121).2 “Flemish (bed) cloth” is a descriptor that is found in probate documents. From this, one ascertains that these textiles were primarily intended for the bed. Many of the so-called Virgins tapestries, with motifs from the story of the Wise and Foolish Virgins, have probably served such a function. The story of the virgins waiting for their bridegroom works well as a bridal coverlet, but there were also many that were probably brought forth for use as a bed cover in connection with a wedding. However, a close study of probate records indicates that this was not the only purpose for which “Flemish” textiles were used. In a 1677 inheritance settlement for Thaasten Haldvorsen in Medalen in Eggedal, the distribution included “1 listings [border, molding] coverlet in the high seat in the living room” (Eker, Modum and Sigdal skifteprotokoll [probate record] no. 1, 1677; Engelstad 1956:121). It is a little unclear what usage was meant by the term listings. Was this a type of decorative interior textile that should lie in the high seat? Or did it mean that it should hang over it? In a similar case from Gudbrandsdalen in 1722 there is no doubt. There it says “1 Flemish cloth to set upon the wall in the high seat,” in the settlement of Joen Iversen in Søndre Langsett, Fåberg (Engelstad 1956:121). Here all indications are that this is a tapestry in the gobelin technique that should hang on the wall in the main room’s most prominent location.

A thoughtful discussion of tapestries and the sisters from Hekne

The method for weaving tapestries seems to have been a fashionable style that came to Norway from central Europe near the end of the 16th century. Fragments of pictorial weavings have been found from the beginning of the Viking Age in the Oseberg ship grave, made in a similar technique (free gobelin in combination with soumak), but the resulting expression is rather different. Perhaps pictorial textiles woven in the so-called Flemish-weave were first a fashionable phenomenon in towns, where this became a specialist handcraft in the 16th century (Sjøvold 1976:23). But the style developed during the first half of the 17th century into a distinctive expression in Gudbrandsdalen and surrounding areas, with an important center of activity in the north. In addition, the characteristic notching technique is an element that we do not find in the town-based tapestries. Even though the main technique may have come from the Continent by way of the towns, this manner of portraying collective stories has deep roots in Norway. Perhaps this is one of the reasons that Flemish-weave, which is so well suited to telling stories, got a secure foothold just there?

The distinctive Renaissance tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen were described and investigated by collectors and museum professionals as early as the 1920s and onwards. One of the questions that was particularly discussed was whether this type of textile was an imported phenomenon or whether it was an expression of a cohesive tradition that extended from the Middle Ages. In the 1950s, one of that time’s most prominent experts on historical textiles, Helen Engelstad, described these tapestries as a legacy from the Middle Ages (Engelstad 1956). But several leading voices in the museum world were not in agreement with her. They believed that the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries should be seen as pale and somewhat clumsy copies of the refined tapestries that were made in central areas of Europe in the 16th century, and that the inspiration without doubt had come to Gudbrandsdalen from the towns. Roar Hauglid, who at that time was the First Antiquarian [at Riksantikvaren, the Directorate for Cultural Heritage] and who aspired to become the National Antiquarian, wrote a rather tactless article in which Helen Engelstad’s theory received blunt criticism (Anker 1960; Hauglid 1956; Hoffmann 1958). The critics were correct in that the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries portrayed the same motifs and themes as Continental tapestries: well-known Bible stories, among others the Wise and Foolish Virgins, the story of the Three Wise Men, and Salome who received the head of John the Baptist on a platter. In this way the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries have clearly drawn inspiration from Continental areas. It is also correct that the special Flemish loom is technically distinct from the traditional warp-weighted loom. The discussion of the tapestries concerned primarily whether there was evidence of an unbroken textile tradition that used the same Medieval technique and patterns and extended to the 17th century’s tapestries (Hoffmann 1958).

This discussion, which happened mostly in the 1950s, should be seen in light of a nationalistic view of tapestry weaving. In the period from the end of the 19th century until around the Second World War, tapestry was seen as an especially Norwegian expression, both by the Lysakerkretsen [an artistic and cultural grouping in Lysaker west of Oslo] and Gerhard Munthe, and through Hannah Rygen’s associations with Norwegian roots in the tapestry weaving tradition (Larson 2011:245; Paasche 2018:21). At that time, the expressed intent was to tie Norwegian modern arts to what were seen as characteristically Norwegian traditions with deep roots. This idea was helped along by two sensational finds. In 1879 the Baldishol church was torn down, revealing a well preserved tapestry that proved to be from the early Middle Ages (1040–1190, Nockert and Possnert 2002:92). A few decades later, in 1904, a number of tapestry fragments were found in the grave mound at Oseberg. The grave itself was dated to the year 834, but the textiles could be somewhat older (Bonde and Christensen 1993:153-166; Vedeler 2019:117-123). However, after the Second World War, what were viewed as explanations based on nationalistic models were not as well received. The 1950s opposition is therefore neither surprising nor unique to tapestry weaving.

Nonetheless there are several things that make it worthwhile to take a closer look at Helen Engelstad’s original theory – and perhaps also to find parallels even further back in time than she envisioned. Her critics focused primarily on the tapestries’ technical and pictorial execution. But the idea behind such a special method of telling stories was not a part of the discussion.

Also belonging to this story is an exchange of views about the Hekne sisters. This was not a discussion about what the legend could contribute to the tapestry tradition, but a question about whether the Hekne sisters had existed or not. It was carried on in ‘back rooms,’ but it emerges by way of bits and pieces that have come to light in letters and brief references in the literature. The positivist, scientific ideal was strongly supported in the 1960s and 1970s in Norway, with an expressed purpose of producing objective, testable and values-free knowledge (Olsen 1997). The value of legends and recollected stories were not particularly well accepted. That which local communities experienced as a worthwhile part of the tapestries’ history was thus met with skepticism by those in the central museums. Pål Tallerås gives this somewhat laconic reporting of a letter exchange between Gudbrandsdalen residents and museum staff in Oslo in his book, Kyrkene i Dovre [The Churches in Dovre]:

…the Kunstindustrimuseet [Museum of Applied Art, now part of the National Museum] in Oslo says in a letter: “The story of the Siamese twins is a legend! Eilert Sund mentions it in his book Husfliden. It has nothing to do with reality.” Someone took exception to this and received this answer from Kunstindustrimuseet at NN: “Our position about the history of the Siamese Hekne sisters who wove such fine tapestries is that it is a legend, which is completely in agreement with the understanding of Professor Olav Bø, Institute for Folkeminnevitenskap [Folklore Studies] at the University of Oslo” (Tallerås 1978:42).

The response gives a clear impression of distance while defining the tradition of this legend as irrelevant to the tapestry tradition.

Collective textile narratives

Collective stories hold a community together. Telling such stories by way of textile pictures has a long tradition, both in Norway and in the rest of Europe. The best-known example is the Bayeux tapestry, which tells the story of William the Conqueror’s Conquest of England and the Battle of Hastings. The tapestry is made in the last half of the 11th century (Bertelsen 2018). In Norway we can detect this type of visual story telling in the hundreds of fragments of pictorial weavings that were found in the Oseberg grave from the 9th century. They tell stories of battles and processions, of witches and people assuming the skins of animals (Vedeler 2019). Small fragments of pictorial weaving that are found in other high status graves from the Viking Age show that these were not unique. Both a ship grave at Grønhaug on Karmøy, a grave at Jåtten in Hetland and a magnificent ship grave at Haugen on Rolvsøy include pictorial weavings (Bender Jørgensen and Moe 2020: 182–194; Hougen 2006:73–75). There is therefore good reason to suppose that this type of textile storytelling was an important part of the visual culture of the Viking Age. Perhaps we can draw this tradition even further back in time. Tablet woven bands with motifs of animals, birds and perhaps magical beings are preserved from the late Iron Age. Among other locations, examples of such are found at Evebø/Eide and Høgom (Magnus 1982; Raknes Pedersen 1982; Nockert 1991).

Tapestry evidence from the Middle Ages is rather sparse. But if we concentrate on visual story telling rather than looking at which techniques are used to make the textiles, things look a little different.

From Norway’s earliest Middle Ages a small fragment of double-cloth survived from Rennebu in Sør-Trøndelag. Although the fragment has since disappeared, it showed motifs that have clear parallels with the Oseberg tapestries (Vedeler 2019:99–101). From Baldishol in Hedmark there is, for all those interested in textiles, the famous tapestry dated to the period between 1040 and 1190. It shows scenes of people, animals and birds, and is likely an illustration of two months of the year (Engelstad 1952:58–63; Nockert and Possnert 2002:92).

Baldisholteppet. Nasjonalmuseet. (full record) Photo: Frode Larsen.

But there are also examples of embroidered tapestries that tell stories. One embroidered tapestry depicting a Biblical story comes from Høyland church and was made at the turn of the 13th century, while another comes from Tingelstad and is dated to the middle of the 16th century (Reinert 1988; Vedeler and Pedersen 2020).

A long line exists between the tapestries in the Oseberg grave of the 9th century and the tapestries in the gobelin technique from Gudbrandsdalen. However, the different techniques used to present these pictures, whether weaving or embroidery, when seen in this connection are of lesser importance. We also must not forget the lively narrative voices that come forth in several tapestries from Skog and Överhogdal in Härjedalen (1040–1170 A.D., Franzen and Nockert 1992; Oscarsson 2010:76; Possnert 2010). The pictures in these tapestries tie together the Old Norse mythology with stories from a developing Christianity. Until 1645 Härjedalen was a part of Norway, and there were strong connections both geographically and culturally between that area and the mountainous regions of central Norway.

Sources that were written down in the Middle Ages indicated that tapestries held a very special position within the storytelling tradition. Textile pictures are well suited to create emotions and provide visible details for telling well-known stories. It would be a long time before broad swaths of the populace could take advantage of a well-developed written culture. Oral and visual storytelling therefore served as an especially important tool to share and maintain collective memories. Nevertheless, this is a somewhat simplistic explanation that has been much debated (see for example Aavitsland 2004 for a thorough discussion). Generally, one can say that story telling is a foundational human strategy that makes it easier to accept the times in which one lives, and the society of which one is a part.

Several poems written down in the Middle Ages describe how textile pictures were used for just this purpose (Nordanskog 2006:217-221; Vedeler in press). One of these is Guðrúnarkviða in Den eldre Edda [The Poetic Edda], which relates how legends and stories were embroidered and woven into tapestries. After the death of Sigurd the Dragonslayer, Gudrun Gjukesdatter travels to Denmark to lick her wounds. There she weaves the fantastic story into tapestries. There are sturdy warriors with red shields, there are warships with golden heads on their prow, and the deeds of chieftains (Det gamle Gudrunkvadet:14–15).

A number of the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries have woven text appearing as a frieze between and around the figure panels. Often these are a combination of short explanatory texts that indicate what story is being portrayed. An example is found in a tapestry from Skjåk from the first half of the 17th century that portrays the Feast of Herod. Here the text reads: “S John when he was beheaded for the dance of a whore ano 13?” (Sjøvold 1976:48, National Museum number OK- 01707). Such minor explanatory texts can also occasionally be found in the older medieval tapestries. There is a good example in tapestry 1a from Överhogdal, where there is a small text, Guðby, written in runes, inserted under the figure of a house (Horneij 1991:138–140). Presumably these texts have been of lesser importance in the telling of the stories portrayed in the pictures. Copies of older tapestries, which have previously been called “replica tapestries,” offer an interesting commentary on exactly this point. Often the same story was repeated, and over time copied from one tapestry to another. When an older tapestry is laid in back of the new warp like a kind of “cartoon,” for technical reasons it is easy for the motifs on the older tapestry to appear reversed in the new. When the copy is done, the text is no longer readable in the usual way. This can be corrected during weaving if one can read and is clear therefore on the difference, but in a number of the copied tapestries the text is reversed. This could mean that the weaver either could not read, or perhaps did not care. Regardless of the reason, when seen in this light the text has less importance than the pictures. It is the pictures that tell the story, right up until they finally become indistinct decorative elements that no longer hold any meaning.

The weaver and the skald

Several major theorists have said that visual communication is closely linked with time, place and social belonging (Baxandall 1988; Bourdieu 2002; Gronow 1997). The storytelling tradition strengthens the solidarity of a place, whether large or small. In this regard it is also important to look more closely at who it is that actually participates in telling the stories, both of the tapestries and about the tapestries. The central elements of Old Norse mythology as they were written down in medieval literature probably had their origin in a tradition where oral and visual storytelling went hand in hand. They were part of a performance with more than one active participant, where the connection between the scene, the visual and the oral elements creates a whole (Vedeler, in press). Of course here the story portrayed in the tapestries would have a central role, but the storyteller was also an active participant.

From the start, Flemish-weave was likely a handcraft for the few, and never became something that “everyone” did (Sjøvold 1976:45). To a certain extent the weaver had the freedom to design the images, but at the same time they were bound by strict norms. In a number of cases old tapestries were regularly copied, with many examples of tapestries that are very similar. Aside from a few exceptions it is also the same stories that appear again and again. Nevertheless, there are some tapestries that stand out among the rest with their lively and imaginative execution or their distinctive motifs. Even if we do not know who the weavers were, it is reasonable to assume that the legends that grew up around them were tied to those who in one way or another stood out, either because of their skill, or because of their creativity, or also because of their otherness.

The tapestries are interior textiles with somewhat different usages. Some were used as coverlets for the bed, other as wall decorations. The tapestries that were meant to hang on the wall probably served as part of an oral storytelling tradition. From medieval literature we have stories of skalds [bards] who convey the tapestries’ stories for an invited audience in the king’s hall. In the saga about Olaf Haraldsson from the first half of the 13th century we hear about a tapestry with the story of Sigurd the Dragonslayer that was placed behind the king and his high seat in the hall. The king calls the bard to come to him and invites him to tell the story for those that sat in the hall: “Thorfinn the Skald sat on the bench in front of King Olav. Then the king said to him: Tell us, Skald, about that which is portrayed in this tapestry” (Johnsen 1922:58).

Medieval skaldic verse is primarily poetry, and therefore differs from prose narration in several ways. Skaldic verse has strict poetic meter, rhyme and not least a system for metaphor or set paraphrasing (Birgisson 2007:10). Nevertheless, the skald and the storyteller are similar in that they both operate within an oral landscape. Just as for stories told in prose, skaldic poetry has the goal of entertaining and making life meaningful and understandable (Birgisson 2007:66). But both in the medieval and the post-Reformation tradition, some skalds had darker motives. Verbal magic also included certain poetic forms, and this is reflected in the laws of Iceland from the 13th century. By the 17th century there was a term for the magic skald, skraptaskáld, or power skald (Hastrup 1987:332-333).

In less elite settings it is natural to suppose that it was the local storyteller whose task it was to tell the stories portrayed in the tapestries. The textiles were brought forth on special occasions and hung up as decorations in prominent places along the walls. This has been the tradition well into modern times in Norway (Hougen 2006:106–107; Vedeler in press). Storytelling tied to these tapestries has therefore been closely associated with celebrations and gatherings of many people. In such circumstances the colorful tapestries functioned in a dual role, as both decoration and as collective “memory cues.” The stories portrayed are not complete but give the plot a direction and bring forth central parts. Such is the case with the tapestry that portrays the legend of Guigemar, where we see the knight in the forest, the stag and the hind with the arrow. This is an indication of a combined oral and visual storytelling tradition for which we see traces from medieval sources. Despite the fact that the preserved version of Strengleikar was written down, these short stories were part of an oral tradition. The text explanations indicate that they were meant to be conveyed aloud, perhaps also accompanied by music (Budal 2009).

In the Orkneyinga Saga there is a scene where two skalds entertain a gathering with a competition to see which of them can make the best verse about the story shown in a tapestry in the hall. It is Christmas and there is a celebration, with tapestries hung up for the occasion. Then Earl Ragnvald challenges the skald Odd the Little, requesting that he make a verse about one of the warriors shown in the tapestry, and the Earl will do the same. (Orknøyingasoga 1929:85). The resulting competition in versifying is entertainment at its highest. The crux of the competition is that the poets must make their verses while thinking on their feet. But the two skalds have a ready source, a manuscript to take inspiration from, namely the tapestry on the wall.

The uncommon weavers: from Valkyries to witches and monsters

The weavers who made the tapestries have often disappeared behind the veil of history. Only occasionally do we hear of named artists. In such cases it is often a woman who in one way or another is distinguished by her difference.

The connection between the weaver’s art and uncommon capabilities can be traced back as far as the Viking Age. Magic is also strangeness. From the Middle Ages we find a number of stories from the sagas that identify unusual women’s capabilities to employ weaving and the use of magic to affect fate and change the course of history. One of the most well-known is found in Njål’s Saga. A man named Dørrud lived in Caithness, Scotland. It was Good Friday and he was out for a walk when suddenly he saw twelve figures come riding. They went into a house nearby, and he crept close to a small opening to see what they were up to. He saw that they were women, and that they were setting up a loom inside. But it was no ordinary warp-weighted loom. Instead of warp threads it had men’s intestines, and these threads were held taut by weights made of men’s heads. They used a war sword to beat in the weaving and an arrow in place of a weaving comb. Through gruesome songs about a battle they kept the rhythm in the bloody weaving. To his horror Dørrud discovers that this is a real battle they are singing about (Njåls saga 1951:261–264). Through this frightful weaving the fates of the warriors and the outcome of a battle far away are being shaped. These magical women are Valkyries, housewives and goddesses of fate all at the same time, and like Valkyries they have the power of life and death (Nordberg 2003:106; Friðriksdóttir 2020:6). In this story, the women who are weaving are not just passive storytellers, they are active participants who are affecting the course of history. What is expressed here is an understanding of the world as both practical and magical at the same time, without a division between what today we would call reality and mysticism.

In surviving tapestries from the Viking Age and the early Middle Ages one finds possible references to magic, or seid [sorcery]. With this type of magic one could see into the future, but one could also cause misfortune and disease, rob people of their wits and strength, open mountains and burial mounds and even commit murder (Price 2019:57). A woman with such powers is found in Torbjørg Veslevolva [volva = seeress], who is described in Eirik the Red’s Saga. She is equipped with a number of implements that help her perform sorcery. She holds a large staff in one hand, an object that itself can be a reference to spinning. When she conducts magic, she steps up on a platform, a seiðhjallr. There are several references to such platforms in the sagas, and it is quite clear that they are high, or raised high above the ground. When the sorceresses Heid and Hamglåma conduct magic in Fridtjof’s Saga, they both fall down and break their backs (Bugge 1901; Fosse 2013:38–39). It is worth noting here that medieval ideas about the magic of earlier times are drawn from an oral tradition and do not necessarily reflect factual practices (Friðriksdóttir 2013:57–58).

On one of the preserved tapestry fragments from Oseberg one sees a woman. She stands up on a flat platform, bound fast to a horse. She seems to turn her face upwards in the direction of a strange form that comes towards her. It is a giant woman, with a head that either forms a beak or horns. A likely interpretation of this scene is that it portrays a magical ritual (Vedeler 2019:53–55).

Woman standing on a platform, on the back of a red horse. Tapestry from Oseberg, Museum # C55000/377/13b2. Photo: Marianne Vedeler.

Another characteristic of the seeress is that she could see into the future. They could interpret signs and omens in nature and decode magical messages that might appear in, for example, the flight of birds. In the Voluspå [volva’s prophecy, from the Poetic Edda], a seeress foretells what will happen when the world as we know it ends. The End Times, or Ragnarok, is possibly portrayed in the tapestries from Överhogdal in Jämtland. There are scenes with animals, ships and human figures. A large animal opens its mouth wide, is this the wolf Fenrir that is in the process of destroying the world? And the ship that glides over a large tree with its branches spread outwards, is that the frightful Naglfar, a ship made from the fingernails of the dead, cast loose and setting its course towards the battlefield? But along with these ideas from a pre- Christian world we also find Christian symbols in this tapestry, and perhaps scenes from the Christian Apocalypse (Wikman 1996; Oscarsson 2010:32-37). In the Överhogdal tapestries, which are dated to 1040–1170, we find a unique combination of both a pre-Christian and a Christian world view.

After the Reformation it would seem that the connection between magic and tapestry still existed. Records of court documents from the end of the 16th century indicate that at least two of the women who were burned as witches at that time were associated with tapestry weaving. They were Johanne Jensdatter, Flemish weaver, and Anne Pedersdatter Beyer.

From legal documents we learn that witnesses who were considered trustworthy by the court testified that Johanne could make things fly through the air and make a storm come to life, and also scare cats on New Year’s Eve. But more serious still was that Johanne Jensdatter bewitched the pregnant wife of Mogens the Woodworker such that “she lost her purpose, and her body has become lifted and very thick and large as if she has been blown up, and she since then and still lies in great pain and agony” (Norske trolldomsprosesser, p. 634).

Johanne carried the name Jensdatter flamske, veverske [Jens-daughter Flemish, weaver]. This can be interpreted in two ways, either that Johanne came from Flanders, or that she wove Flemish-weave. I tend to believe the latter, but either way there is no doubt that she was connected with weaving. So was Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, the most well-known woman burned as a witch in Norway. She was a woman of the better classes, and legal documents reveal the story that connects Anne to the art of tapestry weaving. The origin of the witchcraft accusations against Anne were that she ordered a loom for weaving Flemish-weave from Giert snekker [carpenter]. She got into a dispute with his wife, who later became mysteriously ill. Anne was accused of casting a spell over Anna Snidkers and was later judged to burn alive (Gilje 2010:47).

Two unusual people with unusual talents are also at the center of the legend of the Hekne sisters. In descriptions of the Hekne sisters from early in the 18th century they are characterized as monsters with two heads and only one arm and one leg each. This is how the priest Stockfleth describes them in his inventory list for the Dovre church annex:

One long woven cloth: called Husboned: was a gift from the two sisters who were grown together and had only one hand and one foot each, but two necks and heads, each talked and ate and drank for themselves, these two sisters from one together made the husbona and gave it to the church, such that God should redeem them both from here at one time, which God did. This monster walked like a person and could make with their hands everything that they saw with their eyes and could make with their hands. Their parents lived above Lie, out in a house close to Graaberge called Hectne. One of them was called Gjertrud” (Stockfleth 1732).3

In early modern Europe, monstrous births found their way into everything from printed drawings to books about miracles to medical works. Strange creatures that were reported to have been born of human mothers ranged from monstrous fish to conjoined twins. These were extreme creatures, lying at the intersection between human and animal, between man and woman, between one and several. The word monstrum [monster] comes from monere, which means to warn. All these births had in common that they were seen as a sign or an omen that had to be decoded and interpreted (Bates 2020:119–120). When viewed like this, in many ways this is a direct continuation of the pre-Christian understanding of magical signs and omens in nature that we also recognize from medieval thought. An example is the warning about the king’s birth in Sverre’s Saga. Gunnhild, Sverre’s mother, has a remarkable dream. In the dream the midwife that is sitting with her cries out in fear:

“My Gunnhild! You have borne a strange fetus, awful to look at.” Three times she cried out the same words, and hearing the midwife cry the same with trembling voice, she wondered what kind of fetus it was that she had borne. She then thought it was a stone, rather large and snow white, and it glowed so brightly that it gave off sparks in all directions like glowing iron that is blown on in the forge (Koht 1995:12).

The understanding of the world as a universe of signs stretches back to Antiquity. But in the Early Modern period (ca. 1500–1700) it was important to document and systematize such happenings and group them with methods that made them understandable in a new way. This was also a time with a widespread belief that the End Times were near. People and nature were connected with invisible bonds, where each single element in a microcosm (the person) corresponds with an element in the wider world (macrocosm). With such an understanding, the birth of conjoined twins could be interpreted as a warning of Doomsday (Gilje and Rasmussen 2002:205–228).

A through line passes from the pre-Christian goddesses of fate and seeresses to the witches in the 17th century and thence to the Hekne sisters. They are different, they weave, and they have magic in their hands. Embodying a combination that is both frightening and inspires respect, they are interpreters of magic messages and they are creators of magic happenings.

The legend of the Hekne sisters lives on

The distinctive tapestry tradition in Gudbrandsdalen died out more or less at the end of the 18th century. Even so, the legend of the Hekne sisters persisted into the 19th century and has since remained alive. We see glimpses of it in the collection efforts of Eilert Sundt and later of Anders Sandvig (Sandvig 1907). But at least as interesting is seeing how the area’s own inhabitants continue to be inspired by the legend and the magic surrounding the Hekne sisters. A striking example is seen in memories noted down about a skilled weaver, Åse, who married into the Haugje farm in Dovre in 1812. When she relinquished supervision, there were said to hang a total of 12 tapestries in the great room at Haugje. Her name is especially tied to a tapestry that portrays the Three Wise Men, which now belongs to the Sandvig Collection at Maihaugen (museum number SS-14812). According to tradition, this tapestry took a very long time to complete. Åse was the one who completed it, and a cryptic sentence in the notes implies that this happened through inspiration or even with the help of the Hekne sisters. “Åse had the well- known Hekne-sisters to her home so she could see how they worked, but they were not there to do anything” (Doset, no date). What this actually means is unknown. The legend of the Hekne sisters originated over a hundred years before Åse’s time, so the preserved notes must refer to some sort of spiritual inspiration. A hint of magic lies between the lines.

Blue unicorn. Detail from a Three Wise Men tapestry. Maihaugen. Full record. Photo: Marianne Vedeler.

The Three Wise Men tapestry is in a Renaissance style and bears clear indication of having been copied from an older tapestry. Perhaps Åse had an older tapestry that, according to tradition, was woven by the Hekne sisters and that she used as a model? In any case, the sisters’ reputation for magical capabilities has been a part of the memories about Åse’s weaving.

The tapestry was sold by the family in 1951 to the Friends of the Sandvig Collection for the significant sum of 14,000 kroner, and is described for the first time in the museum’s yearbook the following year. The legend is not mentioned there, but it is noted that Fartein Valen-Sendstad, who was curator at the Sandvig Collection at that time, believed the tapestry had been made in the 17th century (Valen-Sendstad 1925:22).

Respect for and knowledge about the quality of handcraft must have been the basis for such legends arising in their time. There are oral stories about “Hekne weavers” that are tied to weavings on a number of farms in Gudbrandsdalen (Mytting personal communication). Through his novels Lars Mytting has brought forth the legend of the Hekne sisters to a larger audience. In his world, handcraft has meaning for how a community understands itself. Mytting writes with his feet squarely planted in local tradition, a skald of our time who tells us the story of the tapestries. Through him the legend is transformed in almost magical fashion into new art.

In closing

The tapestry tradition in Gudbrandsdalen ties together myths, legends and the visual storytelling tradition on several levels. That which immediately occurs to one is how the tapestries mediate collective narratives through their repetitive repertoire of Bible stories and medieval legends, just as tapestries from the Viking Age mediated collective stories that held meaning in earlier times. The stencil-like scenes that are portrayed show selected highlights in the stories. They point towards an oral and visual storytelling tradition that went hand in hand, just as there was a connection between the skald and tapestries in medieval halls and dwelling rooms. The legends of those who made the tapestries exist on another level. Here the weavers are central. These meta stories help to both keep the tradition alive and to bring forth the actors that otherwise are often silent or nearly invisible in the source material. In this context it makes little difference whether the stories are “true.”

The legend of the Hekne sisters is part of a common European idea that so-called monstrous births were special happenings that should be interpreted and decoded as messages. This points back to the pre-Christian symbolism of natural omens that was now interpreted in a new early modern understanding of the world. To consider the tapestries of Gudbrandsdalen in light of the stories they portray as well as the stories that have been told about the legendary weavers gives a different and richer picture than a single-minded focus on technique and execution.

Thanks

Thanks to Lars Mytting for enjoyable conversations, for the hunt for sources, and for useful commentary. Thanks also to Kirsti Krekling for important information, to Lisa Benson for assistance at the University Library, to Bjørn Bandlien for feedback, to Else Braut for allowing us to view the tapestries in storage at Maihaugen, and a huge thanks to Inger Martinsen for excellent assistance in the National Archives, Hamar. To think that we discovered a copy of Stockfleth’s inventory list! Two colleagues have given valuable suggestions for changes, without you the article would have suffered. A thousand thanks.

Marianne Vedeler,
email: marianne.vedeler@khm.uio.no 

Marianne Vedeler holds a position as Professor in Archaeology at the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo. Her primary area of research is the Viking Age and late medieval periods in Scandinavia.

Editor’s note: After reading this article, you might especially look forward to the final book in Lars Mytting’s Sister Bells trilogy. (Book One: The Bell in the Lake, Book Two: The Reindeer Hunters) It has been published in Norway as Skråpånatta, and will be available in translation soon. The final book contains references to the weavers as witches, the meaning of monsters in the 17th century, and the recording of the Hekne legend by the priest Stockfleth.

Translated by Katherine Larson
Affiliate Assistant Professor, Department of Scandinavian Studies, University of Washington

A print-friendly pdf version is here.

Notes

1 Discovered in a copy of the Kallsbok [parish register] for Dovre Annex, National Archive of Norway, Hamar, May 2022. Lesja priest archive OA. Sources of Stockfleth’s writings have been reported missing since the 1950s (Hoffmann 1958; Tallerås 1978:40).

2 Probate records show that the following farms were in possession of Flemish-weave tapestries in this period: 1658 Tofte in Sør-Fron, 1659 Hovind in Lom, 1660 Kruke in Vågå, 1660 Amundgård in Lesja, 1660 Bjorlien in Lesja, 1664 Opphaug in Lom, 1665 Bjokne in Lesja , 1665 Skjåk in Skjåk, 1666 Thogestad in Fron (?), 1669 Engelsgård in Dovre, 1671 Steig in Sør-Fron, 1671 Seggelstad in Sør-Fron, 1671 Gryting in Sør-Fron, 1672 Brek in Skjåk, 1673 Bjørnsgård in Dovre, 1674 Hundorp in Sør-Fron, 1678 Holen in Vågå, 1680 Forr in Sør-Fron, 1682 Håkonstad in Vågå, 1682 Listad in Sør-Fron (Engelstad 1956, 121). Many of these are large rich farms.

3 Transcribed by the author.

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Crown Princess Mette Marit Became a Weaving Student – And Now There are Full Weaving Courses and Waiting Lists

By Randi Berdal Hagen and Håkon Lie
Translation by Lisa Torvik

Translated with permission from the website of NRK Vestfold og Telemark; Published August 27, 2023; updated August 31, 2023. See the original here

Mette-Marit became a pupil – now there are full courses and waiting lists

A new world opened up for Crown Princess Mette-Marit when she discovered weaving.  Now interest for the hand craft is growing, including among young people.

Teacher and pupil:  Eli Wendelbo at Raulandsakademiet (The Rauland Academy, Telemark) is one of Crown Princess Mette-Marit’s weaving teachers.  Photo: Gry Eirin Skjelbred/NRK

Teacher and pupil:  Eli Wendelbo at Raulandsakademiet is one of Crown Princess Mette-Marit’s weaving teachers.  Photo: Gry Eirin Skjelbred/NRK

Crown Princess Mette-Marit has become a passionate weaver in the past few years. This has influenced many people to pay attention to this handcraft, says Ingrid Hamberg, who is in charge of the classes offered at Raulandsakademiet [The Rauland Academy, Telemark] . The Crown Princess has attended classes several times there for her new hobby.

Place of honor in the palace office 

Her great interest in weaving originated about three years ago.  The Crown Princess has spoken publicly about her new passion several times, most recently in a long NRK interview made in connection with her 50th birthday on August 19 (2023).

There she proudly displayed a work that has recently been given a place of honor in her office at the palace; a large and colorful telemarksteppe [overshot technique with threading pattern associated with Telemark tradition] which she wove together with her teachers in Rauland. “I got it home and thought goodness, that has to hang in here, it is as if it’s made for this room,” the Crown Princess said in the interview.

The tapestry has been given a place of honor in her office at the palace.  Photo: Eskil Wie Furunes/NRK

The tapestry has been given a place of honor in her office at the palace.  Photo: Eskil Wie Furunes/NRK

Interest is growing

In March, the Crown Prince and Princess were on an official visit to Rauland, to visit Raulandsakademiet in particular and the division of the university which is located in the same building. “This is your great passion now, it certainly is,” said Crown Prince Haakon about his wife’s weaving during the visit.

After the royal visit, course director Ingrid Hamberg noticed that interest [in weaving] is growing. “We are in the midst of a great weaving wave, where we are seeing that many, including the Crown Princess, are finding their way to the loom.”

Since the royal visit to Rauland in March there have been full classes and waiting lists for all the weaving courses.

“This year there have been many newcomers, people who have not taken classes here before.  Many have discovered that they can come here to learn.  We could call that a Mette-Marit effect,” says Hamberg.

And on the same weekend that the 50th birthday program was broadcast, some emails rolled in from people who were thinking of pursuing the same weaving education as Norway’s future queen.  

Eli Wendelbo and Ingrid Hamberg in the weaving studio at Raulandsakademiet.  Photo: Håkon Lie/NRK

Eli Wendelbo and Ingrid Hamberg in the weaving studio at Raulandsakademiet.  Photo: Håkon Lie/NRK

Younger and inexperienced people showing interest

Weaving courses are among the most popular courses offered through Norges Husflidslag [Norwegian Handcraft Association], says Tone Sjåstad, who is the communications advisor in the association.

Though weaving has long been popular in certain circles, she sees a change now. “We see that many younger people, who have not previously been engaged in hand craft, now showing an interest for weaving and signing up for classes.  It could have something to do with the Crown Princess,” says Sjåstad.

Praise for the weaving community

Crown Princess Mette-Marit has stressed how wonderful it is to be in a community of craftspeople, as during the official visit in Rauland. “There is so much exchange of knowledge in the way they work together.  Weavers are lovely people,” the Crown Princess then boasted.

Tone Sjåstad, Norges husflidslag  Photo: Ola Dybendahl

Tone Sjåstad, Norges husflidslag  Photo: Ola Dybendahl

Sjåstad believes this is significant. “People have noticed that this is also such a social experience,” she says.

Now Norges Husflidslag hopes for even more of the Mette-Marit effect. “I hope this great interest also leads to more people choosing this as a vocational path, that they will pursue it as a livelihood,” says Sjåstad.

The weaving education in Rauland is a series of courses arranged by Norges Husflidslag and the Association for Cultural and Traditional Education.  In addition there are shorter and longer weaving classes offered by local hand craft leagues throughout Norway.

[Editor’s note: The article included a short video of the Crown Prince and Crown Princess visiting Raulandsakademiet in Vinje, and weaving. See the video clip in the original article.]

October 2023

 

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Tusen takk!

A Special Notice: Beautiful Fall in New England and a Chance to See Frida Hansen’s Southward Tapestry

By Robbie LaFleur

East Coast friends! Please join me for a wonderful opportunity to view Frida Hansen’s monumental 1903 tapestry, Sørover [Southward], at Peter Pap Oriental Rugs in Dublin, New Hampshire. An exhibition and sale of rugs from private collections will be held at the gallery this coming weekend, with opening festivities (including a jazz band!) on Friday, September 29th. The show is timed for peak leaf season, a perfect time to visit Peter Pap’s extensive collections, only an hour and a half from Boston.

Frida Hansen’s tapestry will be a highlight. As Peter Pap wrote in his newsletter,

Many of you already know the amazing story of my discovery of the monumental tapestry by Norwegian artist Frida Hansen entitled Sørover in the collection of the late David McInnis. Now it is back in our Dublin, NH, gallery after hanging at LACMA and the Milwaukee Art Museum in the exhibition Scandinavian Design in America: 1890 to 1980. This exhibition originated in Oslo, Norway and my discovery hadn’t been made at the time of printing of the catalogue so they devoted a full page with a black and white photo from 1925!

Frida Hansen, Sørover [Southward], 1903

I will hold a lecture on Frida Hansen and the wonderful tapestry of swimming swans and maidens on Saturday at 4pm. The Norse mythology image is of swans and maidens sailing southward after bringing summer to the northern lands. My stories will focus on what happened after the swans “swam” to America – exhibitions in New York and around the country, its disappearance, and rediscovery. The best part of attending this lecture will be the opportunity afterwards to ask questions and walk right up to the tapestry to understand its beauty and structure.

Reservations are not needed, but I’d love to know if you are coming. (lafleur1801@me.com) You can review the articles on Frida Hansen and the rediscovered tapestry here: norwegiantextileletter.com/sorover/

In addition to the lecture, I will hold an Instagram Live session at 2 pm on Saturday, September 30, with Southward as the special guest. Please ask questions about the tapestry, request to see a close-up of any sections of the image (except those I can’t reach ten feet up on the wall), and share your comments and observations.

And the Rugs!

Peter Pap will be offering rugs from the collections of noted collectors. Featured will be the remainder of the late Dr. Charles Whitfield’s collection, including his exceptional group of Baluch rugs. Rugs and classical fragments from the collection of the late Dirck Bass of Guernville, California are included. Rugs from the collection of Thomas Edwards of Rhonert Park, California, are another outstanding addition to this exhibition. All these the offerings are new to the market. Some of these rugs were in a landmark exhibition called “Tribal Visions” that took place in Marin County, California, in 1980.

Rugs in the show will be featured on Peter Pap’s website, peterpap.com, and on his Instagram feed, @peterpaprugs, on the days preceding the show.

It would be wonderful to see you here next weekend, at this gorgeous gallery, but with even prettier leaves surrounding it.

Embellishment! Fiber Entries at the Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum Exhibit

Embellishment

Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum, Decorah, Iowa
July 6, 2023–January 5, 2024

This special folk art show focuses on the importance of detail in folk art and features 71 pieces by contemporary folk artists from around the country.

The Norwegian Textile Letter regularly features weavings from Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum’s National Exhibition of Folk Art in the Norwegian Tradition. Going forward, the National Exhibition will be held every other summer, and alternate with special themed exhibits like this year’s Embellishment. There were a number of objects in fiber included — wonderfully embellished! Thank you to the staff at Vesterheim for supplying photos and the artists’ statements for us to enjoy a virtual visit. 

 

Laura Berlage. Hayward, Wisconsin.  “Purse of Dreams”

Offering an embroidered bag or purse was a common gift of devotion or courtship. I wanted this purse to have that feeling of specialness and magic. All the elements, from the loom-beaded top with wire warp to the braided handle to the butterfly pin, were in my stash.

I was delighted with embroideries from the 16th and 17th centuries. Inspired by curving, floral designs in crewel and braided goldwork, I couldn’t keep myself from trying it. Little did I know how difficult embroidering on velvet would be! Every element had to first be padded with a felt or corded base, so the embroidery and beadwork could be stitched on top. The process took months. 

I’m a prolific fiber artist and Vesterheim instructor, living and working on my family’s homestead farm in northern Wisconsin. My work delights in the overlap of narrative and visual and bringing ideas into form. Artist website: erindaletapestrystudio.com 

 

Marcia Cook. Decorah, Iowa. “Holiday Vest”

vest

My inspiration for this holiday vest came from a Scandinavian dress. Originally, it was to be all wool except the polyester lining. I soon tired of trying to complete a mirror image. I added silk ribbons, threads, and glass beads and had fun coloring outside the lines. 

I’m a career goldsmith from the Pacific Northwest. I am a maker of my own clothes and started making embellished jackets when I moved from Seattle to Skagway, Alaska, 25 years ago. Travel in Alaska required patience and needlework filled the time. Since moving to Decorah, I’ve become more involved with my Norwegian heritage. I love the swirls and floral patterns in rosemaling. 

 

Janette Gross. Santa Cruz, California. “Chaos to Wisdom” Weaving

Runes have always fascinated me. Rather than carving them in stone, I used soumak (weaving technique) to add texture and embellish my tapestry to tell a story of moving from chaos to wisdom and understanding. I am exploring wedge weave which originated with blankets woven by the Diné Nation (Navajo) in the late 19th century. Wedge weave is woven diagonally which distorts the warp and results in scalloped edges. I add a card-woven edge to further define the scallops and create a neat and even selvedge. I mostly use wool singles, adding an additional twist to better reflect light. 

I naturally dye wool and weave with it but sometimes add silk, cotton, plastic, or whatever is called for in the piece. This is part of my climate change series to encourage others to take care of the planet. I live in Santa Cruz with my husband and dog Finnegan. Social media: janettemgross104

Rune translations:

  1. Chaos/hail/storm
  2. (top) Challenge (bottom) Hopes/ fears/ water
  3. Shield/protection/defense
  4. Trust/faith/support/progress
  5. War/battle/victory/honor/ justice
  6. Vitality/wisdom/understanding

 

Elea Jourdan. Decorah, Iowa. “Northern Lights” Wall Hanging

My wall hanging was inspired by a photo of the northern lights in Norway. I knew the best way for me to express this was with the technique of wet felting. Traditionally, a Scandinavian pile wall hanging would be created by laying down long locks of wool as one is weaving. But my “wet felting” technique starts with a layered strip of merino wool, laid out on a flat table. I proceeded to lay these beautiful locks along the outside of the merino wool and wet it down with warm, soapy water. Then the locks are felted-in with a felting paddle.

I have been a textile and clay artist for the past 30 years. Textiles have been a continuous part of my creative life. I have been influenced by my own Norwegian heritage. My work is a remembrance of our Nordic traditions and folklore, inspiring me to create my distinctive type of art. 

 

Robert Lake & Mary Jane Lake. Viroqua, Wisconsin. “Celebration of Norwegian Rosemaling through Quilting 

quilt

Mary Jane is a quilter and is always looking for inspiration. Finding rosemaled fabric for this project was a dream come true. She combined her knowledge of rosemaling and free-motion quilting to create this wall-hanging. Using the rosemaled fabric as the focal point, she added two borders. Next, she pinned the backing, wool batting, and top together into a sandwich and filled the entire piece with free-motion quilting. The dark red piping in the binding added another embellishment to bring the entire quilt together.  

Robert has been a woodworker for 50 years; he fills their home with beautiful handmade furniture and other wooden objects. He discovered chip carving about 30 years ago and hasn’t stopped since. He created the chip-carved basswood hanger to “top” it all off.

The Lakes moved to Wisconsin 55 years ago to pursue a dream of growing their own food while continuing their careers in education.  Mary Jane was a special education teacher for 34 years and Robert was a guidance counselor. They continue to grow and preserve most of their food today.

 

 

Miranda Moen. Austin, Minnesota. “Hamarvotten Mittens.”

This work follows the Hamarvotten (Hamar mitten) pattern designed by Mette-Gun Nordheim. It depicts the signature arches of Domekirkeruinen, the Hamar Cathedral ruins, which survived the Seven Years War attacks in 1567 and are a present-day icon of the city. While in Hamar, Norway, due to pandemic restrictions, I started to learn to knit. Over the following months, I continued knitting almost every night and through which I found camaraderie with others. Every time I look at this pattern it brings back memories of one of the best years of my life.

I am an architectural designer driven to serve rural communities through cultural heritage research, attainable architecture, and creative projects that ignite economic development. In 2020 I founded MO/EN, a regional design and research practice headquartered in Austin, Minnesota. I was awarded a Fulbright U.S. Student Fellowship to Norway in 2022. Artist website: www.moendesignpractice.com

 

Rosemary Roehl. St. Cloud, Minnesota. “The Dog Days of Summer” Weaving

I find figurative boundweave (creating figures while weaving boundweave or krokbragd) fun to weave. I used bows and fuzzy yarn and French knots to add bees, cardinals, apples, and pesky ladybugs. This weaving was inspired by nature. I am a self-taught weaver focusing on traditional Norwegian weaving. I fell in love with Norwegian weavings during my first trip to an ancestor’s home on the Nordfjord in 1978. 

I started competing in the Vesterheim National Norwegian-American Folk Art Exhibition in 1983. I received a Vesterheim Gold Medal in Rosemaling in 1992. I enjoy exploring different ways to use traditional techniques and color. I taught at St. Cloud State University (MN) in the College of Education and retired in 1997. 

 

Juli Seydell Johnson. Iowa City, Iowa. “Reaching to the Sun” Quilt 

This piece began as a very basic quilt. When done, it was pretty, but didn’t feel “finished.” I was inspired to transform the quilt after painting in the Telemark style in a workshop with Nancy Schmidt. My own designed embellishment for this quilt flowed quickly after a weekend of painting and it grew into a vibrant interpretation of flowers growing toward the sun.

I am an artist who primarily works with textiles. My art is often inspired by nature and everyday activities. I like to make bold interpretations of what I see. I use fun colors that brighten a space and make people smile. I started taking rosemaling classes in 2019 to connect to my Norwegian heritage. The colors, shapes, and techniques have added a new and exciting dimension to my textile work. Artist website: buffalograce.com

 

Renee Thoreson. Rochester, Minnesota. “Hardanger Elegance” 

I love the feminine lines and delicate detail of the pattern. I also love blue, and the master level of skill needed to execute the design. When I heard that the theme this year was “Embellishment,” I just had to add a little glam with the crystals and beads! I hope you like it too!

I am a folk artist who loves all things Norwegian. I have been stitching since I was three years old. It started with lacing cards and progressed to embroidering hens on potholders. I did cross stitch until I ordered hardanger embroidery books from Nordic Needle (Fargo, ND) which then became my new folk art passion. I also love to rosemal and grew my skills here at Vesterheim. My late dad introduced me to wood carving, and we enjoyed classes together at Vesterheim. Engaging in folk arts is my dad’s legacy and one I will pass on.

 

Joshua Torkelson. St. Paul, Minnesota. “Selbu Hat” 

This hat is made using patterns and motifs found on historic examples of mittens and sweaters from the Selbu area of Norway. What I love about these patterns is that they can be found on all clothing, ranging from Sunday best to everyday clothes. Functionally, the colorwork adds two layers of yarn when knit, making the garment twice as warm. The folded brim also gives extra warmth around the ears.

I am a woodcarver, knitter, and folk artist. I have been carving since middle school and find inspiration in historic carvings and patterns. I also began knitting in earnest in 2020 and found a passion for colorwork, particularly Norwegian Selbu motifs. In all my work, I am fascinated by repeated patterns and the elaborate decoration of everyday objects. Instagram: @josh_torkelson 

 

Lisa Torvik. St. Paul, Minnesota. “Kalendar” Weaving

The medieval Baldishol tapestry discovered in a church in Norway in the late 19th century is the inspiration for my piece, “Kalendar.” I used the overall dimensions and decorative framework of the original’s design, which consists of two panels, “April” and “May” showing activities of sowing and warfare, respectively. This is believed to be the surviving fragment of a long frieze depicting all the months of the year. I chose the months of my birthday and my husband’s birthday to showcase elements of our lives and interests and incorporated several different techniques of textile construction and embellishment.

Growing up in Decorah, I was exposed to art and culture and a lot of Norwegian influences. My mother encouraged artistic expression and music and introduced me to knitting and weaving. In high school, I participated in a youth exchange with Valdres, Norway, and it deepened my interest in textile arts and weaving. Higher education and work have delayed my return to the loom for the past 10 years or so. Now I enjoy letting my weaving knowledge develop in new directions. 

 

Robbie LaFleur. Minneapolis, Minnesota. “Post Lockdown: Together Again”   

rug

Rag rugs are common textiles in Scandinavian homes. This rug includes bed sheets from three sources: a sheet from my great-uncle’s time, a decades-old sheet of my own, and thrift store sheets. This rug is a companion to a very different wool krokbragd rug woven during COVID-19 lockdown. This rug was woven as part of a group warp at the Weavers Guild of Minnesota. I truly appreciate the time to be “together again” with fellow weavers, friends, and family. 

I have been following a thread of Scandinavian textiles since I studied weaving at Valdres Husflidskole in Fagernes, Norway, in 1977. I received a Vesterheim Gold Medal in Weaving in 2002. I coordinate the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group and publish the Norwegian Textile Letter (norwegiantextileletter.com). In 2019, I received a fellowship from the American Scandinavian Foundation to study the transparency technique of famed Norwegian tapestry weaver Frida Hansen in Stavanger, Norway. Artist website: robbielafleur.com  

 

The Best of Show Award and Jurors Choice Awards did not include a winner in fiber, but perhaps none could compete with a rosemaled plate including Edvard Munch Skrik heads!

Juror’s Choice: Jerry Johnson, Stoughton, Wisconsin. “My Scream Plate”

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 
August 2023

Celebrating Sprang, a Traditional Twining Technique

By Robbie LaFleur

I knew little about sprang until recently when I ran across the work of Liilian Saksi. This young Norwegian artist has taken the traditional white lacy technique and used it to create contemporary geometric art works full of color and meaning.

I had also seen references to Carol James, an American who learned about sprang and then used it as a springboard to design complex patterns and amazing pieces of clothing. She has written books and produced videos teaching the technique.

It is inspiring to read about these two artists, who each in their own styles took a traditional technique and made it their own. Read: “Liilian Saksi: An Artist in Språgning,” and “Twist of Fate: Carol James’ Journey in Sprang.”

A Short Introduction to Traditional Sprang with Some Examples

Sprang is appreciated in Norway as a traditional braiding technique. Most people think of white lacy borders on curtains or towels when sprang is mentioned, like this piece owned by the Sverresborg Trøndelag Folkemuseum.

Lace border in sprang technique. Sverresbord Trøndelag Folkemuseum. (full record)

The sprang technique is included on the Rødliste [Red list] of endangered traditional handcraft techniques by the national handcraft association, Husflid. The Husflid local group in Vågå studied sprang. Their document on the technique includes photos of contemporary items made with sprang, like gloves, a lampshade, and a dress for a small girl. There are two demonstration videos (in Norwegian). Their introduction to sprang reads in part [translation mine]:

In sprang, a braiding technique, yarn is stretched between two sticks or on a frame. The threads, which are left parallel, are wound around each other and can form different patterns. The technique has been widespread over large parts of the world and the oldest finds are from Egypt from approximately 2000 BCE.

In the Nordic countries it has been known since the Bronze Age. The oldest finds in Norway are dated 300–400 CE and are made of wool.

Among the textile implements in the Oseberg find from the first half of the 8th century is a frame that is assumed to have been used for sprang. In Norway, the technique has been widely used to make decorative objects, such as tablecloths, decorative towels and curtains.

Here is a frame with sprang underway.

Photo from the Sverresborg Trøndelag Museum of a sprang frame. (full record)

This description of the sprang frame comes from the Sverresborg Trøndelag Museum [translation mine].

A simple and square sprang frame made of untreated wood. There are 21 holes on each vertical side. In these, the warp threads are attached at the top and bottom. With the help of the holes, you can choose the length of the work. The warp threads are attached to a wooden plug which is fixed in the holes. The yarn for the sprang work is lashed around the warp threads above and below. It is braided/twined from the top. The work is identical above and below. Dividing sticks (4 flat wooden strips) have been inserted in the work. The sprang frame has simple feet with a cross plank in between. Sprang, sometimes called bregding, is an old and special needlework technique.

Sprang Artifacts in Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

Here are four examples of historical sprang, from the collection of the Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum.

1975.033.003 and 1977.065.002.  Both pieces were made by Camilla Heiberg Stoylen of Bergen, Norway. 1977.065.002 was made in about 1915 and used as trim for a curtain. 1975.033.003 was probably made at about the same time.
Camilla (or Kamilla, 1869-1957) grew up in an old merchant family. She attended boarding school in Växjo, Sweden, where she learned sewing, weaving, and other textile techniques.  The sprang pieces were brought to the U.S. by Camilla’s son, either in 1921 when he immigrated or on a later visit home. It was donated to the museum by Sigvald Stoylen.

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum piece 1977.065.002.

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum piece 1975.033.003.

1985.129.017.  Ingeborg Husan Sjetne (1877-1963) of Hedmark, Norway, made this piece of edging and entered it in a 1952 textile exhibition organized by her local chapter of Bondekvinnelaget (Rural Women’s Association). It was donated by Marie Skramstad DeForest.

LC0819.  This piece was originally part of De Sandvigske Samlinger Museum Collection (now called Maihaugen) in Lillehammer, Norway. It was sent as part of a large group of gifts from Norwegian museums to the Luther College Museum (now Vesterheim) to celebrate the centennial of Norwegian immigration in 1925.

This piece originally came to the U.S. from the Maihaugen Museum in Lillehammer, Norway.

Maihaugen still owns many examples of sprang; here are 17 pieces  still in the Maihaugen collection, as shown through the Norwegian Digital Museum.

These Vesterheim pieces are the ones that sparked Carol James’ book Sprang Patterns and Charts Inspired by Samples in the Collection of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum. (Read more about the book in “Twist of Fate: Carol James’ Journey in Sprang.”

I still don’t know much about sprang, really, but I understand the concept more after trying Carol James’ short introductory video. I recommend it! I felt clumsy while manipulating just a few strands of yarn, and had to go back and begin again a few times, but isn’t that true of any new handcraft technique?

I have a ways to go before I can create a shirt or an art work with sprang, but it is fun to admire historical sprang and the work of contemporary artists. I hope you enjoy getting to know their work.

robbielafleur.com
Instagram: @robbie_lafleur
Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

 

 

 

Book Review: Continuum by Solveig Aalberg

By Molly Elkind

I’ve been weaving tapestry for over 10 years and teaching approaches to tapestry design for at least five years.  I’m always on the lookout for other tapestry weavers doing interesting contemporary work, to inform my own work and to share with other weavers.  I came across this blog post on the Textile Forum blog, about a body of work by Norwegian fiber artist, Solveig Aalberg, that I am excited to share. 

Aalberg has made a series of 100 small pieces that she calls “miniatures” which together form the series Continuum.  Each one measures about 20 x 24 cm, or roughly 7.75 x 9.5 inches.  Each features horizontal stripes in some form.  They are woven in tabby or double weave in a variety of fibers.  As she wove the series, Aalberg designed a book that reproduces every single piece, Continuum:  Woven Miniatures.  The book devotes a full page, or in some cases two pages, to each tapestry, and for each, the fibers and colors used are listed with a numerical notation that indicates the number of times each color is repeated.

Solveig Aalberg, Continuum #020, 2018.  Linen, cotton, polyester.

As I began to look through the book, I realized that far from becoming repetitious the project allowed for almost infinite variation within Aalberg’s parameters.  The idea that boundaries and limits actually free us up for greater creativity has been coming up in my tapestry feedback group discussions lately, and Aalberg’s project is a perfect example of how that can work.

Aalberg says in an interview included at the end of the book that her work is “all about reading the world around me by organizing structures and repetitions.  Tapestry’s strict framework of horizontal and vertical lines provides a basis for working on my visual idiom.  It might seem restrictive, but it is a challenge that triggers me.” (p. 260).  She goes on to say that systems and mathematics allow for rhythmic repetitions would not be possible otherwise:  “. . . structures build up contrasts and juxtapositions that you couldn’t envision beforehand without using these systems.” (p. 265).

While Aalberg’s work starts with weaving on the loom, she further develops each piece by adding stitching, sometimes subtle straight stitches that meld with the weft, other times wild loops and dangling threads that create a riot of texture on the back.  These pieces are pictured front and back on double-page spreads.  In all the pieces, a delight and curiosity about color is the driving force.

Solveig Aalberg, Continuum #036 back, 2020. Linen, cotton, polyester and reflex.

Solveig Aalberg, Continuum #036 front, 2020.  
Linen, cotton, polyester and reflex.

Aalberg has worked on a very large scale many times, but for this project she chose a format that invites the viewer to “experience the work up close” in an “intimate and personal” way (p. 264).  Many of us are attracted to small format work not only because it is portable and more quickly accomplished than large work, but precisely because it speaks one-on-one to the viewer.

Pieces from the Continuum series have been exhibited in various shows in Europe, and several have been sold.  Aalberg hopes that the works will be widely disseminated and that they can “thereby make a little statement about how everyday life is influenced by how we do the same thing again and again, but with either minor or major changes.  In that way, each miniature can be read as a metaphor for the days we live” (p. 267).

Solveig Aalberg, selections from Continuum at Haugesund Kunstforening og Billedgalleri, 2020.

Regarding her commitment to a long-term project over several years, Aalberg admits, “It does cost something to bring this about–that is also part of the process.  Showing tenacity, holding on to your idea, not letting go.  If I had abandoned Continuum, it would be like going back on a promise.  It would feel like a betrayal” (p. 267). This struck me–how often do we as artists lose heart, have crises of confidence, or simply bow to the ongoing pressures of life and abandon our big ideas?

Regarding the book itself, in addition to the interview with the artist, an essay by writer Ole Robert Sunde is included, whose work Aalberg feels draws on similar themes.  All text, including captions for the tapestries, appears in Norwegian and English.  Several installation shots of the work show how it is mounted approximately 4.5″ from the wall, so that it casts a shadow and attains a sculptural presence.  It is a beautifully photographed and produced hardcover book.  You can order it here for 380 Norwegian kroner, about $38 plus shipping.  For me this book is a wonderful counterpoint to Sheila Hicks’s Weaving as Metaphor, which contains images of dozens of her experimental minimes.  Both artists work in small format, but their approaches and results are very different.  Food for thought.

This review first appeared on Molly’s blog, https://mollyelkindtalkingtextiles.blogspot.com on October 12, 2022. 

https://mollyelkindtalkingtextiles.blogspot.com
Instagram: @mollyelkind
Molly Elkind earned an M.A. in Studio Art from the Hite Art Institute at the University of Louisville in 2002. Exhibition highlights include two solo shows in Atlanta (2009 and 2018)  and numerous juried and invitational shows nationwide.  Molly has been published in a number of fiber art-related publications, and her work is in several private collections.  Besides making art, Molly is passionate about teaching it, with a particular focus on design principles and processes.  She is based in Santa Fe, New Mexico and teaches both online and nationwide for guilds and conferences.  

Editor and author’s note: These images are screen shots from Aalberg’s book. The book images are of much higher quality. 

March 2023

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