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Gudbrandsdalen Tapestries and the Story of the Hekne Sisters

By Marianne Vedeler, Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo (UiO)

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published as “Billedtepper fra Gudbrandsdalen og sagnet om Heknesøstrene” in Viking: Norsk Arkeologisk Aarbok [Viking: Norwegian Archaeological Yearbook], Vol. 86, No. 1, 2022, and is translated and reprinted with permission. A print-friendly pdf version is here.

Abstract: An intriguing combination of tapestry weave, legend and myth arose in Gudbrandsdalen in the 17th century. The legend about the conjoined twin master weavers is still living as a local story, and is now being conveyed to an international audience through novels written by Lars Mytting. The legend is tightly connected to a distinct form of tapestry weave, depicting biblical stories and narratives rooted in medieval poetry. The traditional interaction between visual and oral storytelling might be an important key to understanding the textiles. Visual stories told through tapestries have a long tradition in Norway, traceable from the 9th century tapestries from the Oseberg Viking ship grave on to the tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen. The legends about the extraordinary weavers that created tapestries in Gudbrandsdalen provide an extra dimension, linking the idea of conjoined twins as creatures of paradox with the pre-Christian tradition of natural signs that had to be de-coded.

In the 17th and 18th centuries a distinctive form of storytelling flourished in Gudbrandsdalen. In pictures conveyed through textiles, local artists brought to life stories from the Bible, but also from chivalric ballads from the Middle Ages. Along with these stories grew tales of fantastical weavers and their almost magical capabilities. One of these tales is the legend of the conjoined twins from Hekne in Dovre.

The weavers created visual stories that helped those in their local community understand themselves and the times in which they lived. But this form of textile storytelling and the artists who created them are part of a deeper storytelling tradition that stretches back to the Viking Age.

But is it appropriate to draw parallels between the tapestries of the Viking Age and those from Gudbrandsdalen? What was actually written down about the remarkable conjoined master weavers from Hekne in the 18th century? And how does the story of the Hekne sisters relate to the quite special tapestry tradition of Gudbrandsdalen? If one looks more closely at the connection between these questions, historical and archaeological sources provide a picture of a storytelling tradition with deep historical roots, where the blending of handcraft, legend and myth form an entirety.

The legend of the conjoined sisters

In the novels The Bell in the Lake and The Reindeer Hunters [Søsterklokkene and Hekneveven], author Lars Mytting brings forth the story of two conjoined master weavers from Dovre (Mytting 2018, 2020). The legend of the Hekne sisters has been known and loved in Gudbrandsdalen since the early 18th century and perhaps earlier. As with all good stories it has been passed along in the oral tradition for many generations, and over time has been changed and developed. But in addition to the oral tradition, there are also a number of early written accounts of the legend.

One of the sources for the two-sisters legend is Gerhard Schøning’s well-known travelogue from the 1770s. In the years 1773–1775, historian Schøning traveled over Dovre [Dovrefjell, a mountain range in central Norway] and down through Gudbrandsdalen, a journey that would later be remembered through the book Reise som giennem en Deel af Norge i de Aar 1773, 1774, 1775 paa Hans Majestets Kongens Bekostning er giort og beskreven [A journey through a part of Norway in the year 1773, 1774, 1775 at His Majesty’s Expense is undertaken and described]. It is here that we become acquainted with the extraordinary conjoined weavers, later known as the Hekne sisters.

This is how Schøning describes them:

In Dofre church there used to be an Aaklæde [coverlet], or a so called Huusbona [household textile], remarkable because it had been woven and presented to the church by two sisters, who were born conjoined such that they each had only one hand and one foot, but a 2nd neck and a 2nd head, which spoke for themselves as well as ate and drank for themselves. They created the aforementioned textile, and presented it to the aforementioned church, so that God should allow them to die at the same time. Their prayers were heard. They could go and accomplish whatever they wished. One’s name was Giertrud (Schøning 1980:30).

A decade later, in 1785, the priest and adventurer Hugo Friderich Hiorthøy repeats the same story in his Physisk og Ekonomisk Beskrivelse over Gulbrandsdalens Provstie [Physical and Economic Description of Gudbrandsdalen Parish]. But he adds an important piece of information: The parents of the twin sisters “were supposed to have lived above the Lie farm in a house close to Graaberge called Hechtner” (Hiorthøy 1990).

On the slope above the Lie farm in Dombås there is in fact a place named Gråberget. If one stands in the farmyard and looks upwards and to the right of Gråberg one sees a place that on the map is called Hekne. This matches almost exactly with Hiorthøy’s description, but these days that location is crossed daily by the Olso–Trondheim train, whose tracks travel right over the old farm site.

The legend says that the woven artistry of the Hekne sisters was so fantastic that by presenting one of their tapestries to the church, they were granted their last wish by God. According to Schøning’s description, they were allowed to die at the same time. How long had the legend existed as an oral tradition in his time? He himself says that it is an old story. Gerhard Schøning possibly got the story from a priest who had worked in the parish a generation and a half earlier. Niels Olesen Stockfleth was the priest in Lesja from 1724 to 1745. In the Lesja church record book he noted down a list of the church’s possessions, and a separate section is devoted to the Dovre church annex for the year 1732. That is where we find the oldest description of the story of the two weavers, in a version that combines information from both Schøning and Hiorthøy (Stockfleth 1732).1

A portion of Stockfeth’s description of the Hekne sisters, in the Kallsbok [parish register] for Dovre Annex, National Archive of Norway, Hamar, May 2022. Lesja priest archive OA.

Since the legend of the Hekne sisters was recorded by the priest Stockfleth in an inventory list, it must mean that he believed the story described real people who lived at some time during the 17th century. But at that time, no textile of any kind could have been given to the church that we know as Dovre church today. This church, with its characteristic slate slabs, first came into use in 1736 and was formally consecrated in 1740. All indications are that Stockfleth himself participated in its planning. But before that there was another church located a short distance away, between the farms Skjelstad and Bergseng. That church was probably built around the year 1400, but by the end of the 17th century it had become unsound and in constant need of repair. In Stockfleth’s time it was in danger of collapsing, and it was torn down when the new church came into use in 1736 (SAH Kirkestol for Lesja; Tallerås 1978:12-13).

At the little medieval church there was supposed to be a holy spring, and it was so well-known that it was mentioned by the parish priest in the church’s records. This is one of many so-called Olav springs, a healing source of water tied to St. Olav. The Pilgrims Route to Nidaros went past Bergseng (Werner 1998:37).

We will probably never know how much of the legend of the Hekne sisters is based on a true story. We do not know whether there were conjoined twins in Dovre at that time, or whether there could have been two sisters who wove masterworks together on a wide loom, or even what type of textiles these could have been. The earliest sources mention nothing about the appearance of the textile, other than that it was a coverlet, or a “husbunad,” which is a form of interior textile. But regardless, it is probably not coincidental that the story originates in the 17th century, and that the setting where the drama takes place is exactly northern Gudbrandsdalen. From the first part of the 17th century and for approximately one hundred years going forward, there developed a completely special form of tapestry in this area. It was especially in the 17th century that this reached its artistic highpoint, but evidence of the weaving tradition and the legends surrounding it have lived on right up to modern times.

Later the legend of the Hekne sisters was to have consequences not only for the reputation of the tapestry weavers in northern Gudbrandsdalen, but also for the economy of the surrounding communities living nearly 300 years later.

The tapestry art of Gudbrandsdalen

In the 17th century a distinctive manner of weaving tapestries flourished in Gudbrandsdalen and in certain other areas of eastern and western Norway. Many of the tapestries that had exceptional technical and artistic qualities came from the northern part of Gudbrandsdalen. It is likely that this was a core area for this type of tapestry weaving, and many of the really capable weavers who wove such tapestries seem to have been located there.

The Gudbrandsdalen tapestries were woven in the gobelin technique, which probably came to Norway from Flanders and surrounding areas at the end of the 16th century (Sjøvold 1976:24). In records and probate documents from this period, this weaving technique was called flamskvev [Flemish-weave], likely because of professional weavers who brought the technique with them from Flanders. It is also possible that the special Flemish loom came with them. This loom resembles the warp-weighted loom, but in contrast to the latter it has both a top and a bottom beam, and one weaves from the bottom upwards instead of the opposite. However, there is nothing preventing one from weaving tapestry in the gobelin technique on the old warp-weighted loom, as described by Marta Hoffmann in The Warp-Weighted Loom (Hoffmann 1964). Quite the opposite, it is probable that tapestries from both the Oseberg find, a grave from the 9th century, and the somewhat more recent Baldsishol tapestry were woven on such a loom. Oral tradition in Gudbrandsdalen also possibly indicates that some tapestries could have been woven on the traditional warp-weighted loom in more recent times (Bøe 1961:74-75).

Notched edges along a vertical slit. Detail from a version of The Three Wise Men tapestry, (full record)

When one weaves in the gobelin technique, the warp threads are completely covered by the weft threads, the latter of which are inserted in their own separate pattern areas. Different methods can be used to avoid the development of slits between the separate pattern areas. One can either interlock the wefts with each other between two warp threads (with a double or single interlock), or the wefts can be wrapped around a common warp threads without interlocking with each other (Sjøvold 1976:86). To avoid slits between pattern areas, the Gudbrandsdalen tapestry weavers instead utilized a distinctive notching technique. Where the pattern areas meet, the weft on each side is moved forth and back by one warp thread on either side of the division, and in this way the fabric is “closed” (Sjøvold 1976:86, Cyrus- Zetterström 1983). This creates small shifts in the color and pattern that look like small “notches.”

This distinctive notching technique for weaving together figures and patterns, combined with the use of color and pattern, gives these tapestries a characteristic appearance that is easily recognizable. But it is not only the pictorial stories told by the tapestries that have made them into vivid and treasured expressions of art. Over the years many of Norway’s larger museums have secured tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen as well as from certain other areas in eastern Norway.

There are somewhat different opinions on just when Flemish tapestry weaving became popular in Gudsbrandsdalen. Some have maintained that the oldest tapestries were made at the beginning of the 17th century (a woven date as old as 1613 is found in some, Kielland 1955), while others believe that we have no certain evidence for tapestry production of this type before the year 1700 (Sjøvold 1976:45). That last is not correct. Existing probate documents from Gudbrandsdalen indicate that the description “Flemish cloth,” with the meaning of Flemish-weave, was in use in this area at least as early as 1658, when such a textile was part of the estate for the large farm Tofte in Sør-Fron (Engelstad 1956:121). Unfortunately, there are no preserved probate records for the first half of the 17th century.

Many of the oldest tapestries have figures that are wearing old fashioned ruffs [pleated collars], the women wearing straight overhanging bodices above a parted skirt, with long moderate sleeves and shoulder accents. This was typical Renaissance dress that points to the first half of the 17th century. The figures in the oldest tapestries have individual expressions, living their own lives, and each of them are different. The foolish virgins cry openly, while the wise triumphantly hold high their shining lanterns. In the background can be seen towers, houses, columns and stone walls.

This Wise and Foolish Virgins tapestry owned by the Minneapolis Institute of Arts is thought to have been woven in the 1600s. You can see the city of Jerusalem depicted in the upper row, and the foolish virgins crying into their handkerchiefs. https://collections.artsmia.org/art/670/the-wise-and-foolish-virgins-norway.

By the 18th century the expressions stiffen and become more schematic, until the figures become almost simple rows of pattern, while the background is replaced with decorative geometric patterns. By the end of the 18th century the production of this sort of tapestry is more or less discontinued, even though occasional copies were still made.

Wise and Foolish Virgins tapestry from 1760, owned by the Norsk Folkemuseum. It shows the increasing stylization of the figures after the design became rooted in folk culture. https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023130439/teppe.

The stories presented in these tapestries revolve around a handful of themes. Most take their inspiration from well-known Bible stories: the Wise and Foolish Virgins, the story of the Three Wise Men, of Salome’s dance, King Solomon’s wisdom, the enumeration of Christ’s ancestors and the personification of the virtues, justice and patience (Justitia and Patentia).

The stories of the Virgins and the Three Wise Men were especially popular. Thor B. Kielland claimed to have registered a total of 75 tapestries with the 10 Virgins motif, although unfortunately he did not leave a list (Kielland 1955:68).

Even today the story of the Three Wise Men is one that many are familiar with from the Christmas Gospel, however the story of the Virgins is no longer as well known. In the Gospel of Matthew, Jesus compares the riches of heaven with ten virgins who wait for their bridegroom. They plan to awaken during the night with their oil lamps ready to meet the bridegroom when he comes. All ten take their lamps with them, but only half remember to take extra containers of oil to fill their lamps while they wait. As they wait for the bridegroom they eventually grow tired and fall asleep. In the middle of the night someone calls and wakes them: “The bridegroom is coming, get up and meet him.” They all wake and begin to set their lamps in order, but the virgins who have forgotten to bring extra oil cannot relight their lamps. They have to hurry off to get more oil from a merchant, and so are not there in time for the bridegroom’s arrival. When they do return the door is closed and their chance is lost (Matthew 25:1–13).

Not all of the tapestries portray stories from the Bible. Of those registered, one single tapestry depicts events from a completely separate storytelling tradition, a tradition that points directly to the chivalric ballads of the High Middle Ages. This tapestry is found in the collection of the National Museum (museum number OK 17388). It is woven in red, blue, green and gold, with white contour lines, and the handwork is of high quality. The motifs are placed in four panels, two above and two below. In each of the panels we see a large figure: In the upper left a large stag with remarkable antlers. To the right of this is a horse rearing with a rider on his back. He seems to be greeting the viewers. In the lower panels a sturdy fellow is waving to us from the left, while the right panel is occupied by a snow white deer that is standing on its hind legs. It is turned towards the man and seems to be shoving something narrow in his direction with its forelegs. These motifs are likely taken from the story of Guigemar (Kielland 1955), one of the medieval romantic tales of chivalry. This is one of the courtly tales that are part of the collection Strengleikar (Old Norse Ljóðabók), a translation of French lais into Old Norse that was ordered by Håkon Håkonsson in the mid 13th century for use at the Norwegian court (Budal 2009).

Guiamars sagn, Nasjonalmuseet. (full record).

One day, the greatest and most handsome knight in France went out for a hunt. This is Guigemar from Brittany. He is a charming heartbreaker, for he cares for none of the women who have offered him their heart. It seems that he is incapable of loving anyone. When he comes out into the forest, he sees a large stag, and just after that a snow white hind comes into view with a twig between its antlers. The knight Guigemar strings his bow and shoots the white hind. She falls, but immediately the arrow turns and comes whizzing back at him. It buries itself in his thigh and down he falls beside the hind. Then the hind turns to him and suddenly he understands what she is saying. There is a threat in her voice. You have done me harm, she says, and because you have wounded me, you shall endure a cruel fate. Soon you will meet a woman who you will truly love, but she will cause you greater pain and heartache than any woman has endured for your sake. And she shall also suffer on account of you. You and she shall suffer so much that everyone who has ever loved or shall ever come to love will wonder that you could bear such great sorrow. And never will your wound heal until you are finally with one another.

After that Guigemar did not know what to do with himself. He roamed far and wide, and at last he came to a beach where a strange ship lay. He went onboard and immediately fell asleep, after which things transpired as they were meant to. The ship entered an unfamiliar port where Guigemar met the beautiful young wife of the chieftain of that place. He fell hopelessly in love with her and she with him. After much sorrow and pain, and separation and loss, they are finally together and his wound can begin to heal (Rytter 1962:37-54).

The vivid figures, colors and lush floral background indicate that the Guigemar tapestry was made before 1700. The initials IOS, woven into the lower portion, could be either those of the weaver or of the owner. There are no firm details about where this tapestry was made. However, Kielland has argued that it was probably woven in northern Gudbrandsdalen in the decades approaching the 1650s. There are good reasons to be a bit careful with such a precise dating, but in any case, the artistic style points towards this being one of the early tapestries, and that it was woven in the 17th century. In the narrower bands that divide the figure panels one finds animal figures that bring to mind opposed lions. Both these and the form of the human figures are reminiscent of several other tapestries that come from northern Gudbrandsdalen (Kielland 1955:64).

Tapestries with motifs from, among others, the Feast of Herod, where Salome dances for the king and receives the head of John the Baptist on a platter, provide similar examples (museum numbers OK 01707, OK 17383, OK 08324, NF 1931-0347). In the first example, an especially well made tapestry from Bøverdal near Lom, we find similarities in the forms of the human figures as well as the same opposed lions as those in the Guigemar tapestry.

Tapestry with a Feast of Herod motif. Nasjonalmuseet. Between 1613 and 1750. Nasjonalmuseet. Full record.

What the tapestries were used for

Traditionally tapestries are closely associated with interior décor. In the Viking Age and the Middle Ages, narrow tapestries in a pictorial weaving technique were hung up on the walls for special occasions. These were often called revler [narrow decorative strips of cloth] (Engelstad 1952:18-19; Vedeler 2019, Vedeler and Pedersen 2020). Later in the Middle Ages and after the Reformation the tradition of hanging variously formatted tapestries for parties and celebrations continued, in churches as well as in private homes. Over time the long and narrow revle form was not as suitable, and tapestries developed into a more rectangular or square format. It has been suggested that this was connected with the introduction of the fireplace and chimney, which produces less smoke in the living area and therefore presented alternative opportunities for the shape of textile wall décor (Hauglid 1956). But the fireplace with chimney has been known in Norway since the Middle Ages, even if they were only in use amongst the rich. In many places of the country people have probably used fireplaces in log homes from the mid 16th century (Solhjell 2007:158-163). In any case, textiles in the tapestry technique have been used both for decoration and insulation on the walls, as cushion covers and as coverlets. There is no doubt that what was called Flemish-weave in the 18th century were textiles for interior décor, often with pictorial motifs.

A source that can indicate what the tapestries were used for is found in surviving probate records. An overview of these documents from northern Gudbrandsdalen for the years 1658 to 1682 reveals that 23 farms owned at least one Flemish-weave textile (Engelstad 1956:121).2 “Flemish (bed) cloth” is a descriptor that is found in probate documents. From this, one ascertains that these textiles were primarily intended for the bed. Many of the so-called Virgins tapestries, with motifs from the story of the Wise and Foolish Virgins, have probably served such a function. The story of the virgins waiting for their bridegroom works well as a bridal coverlet, but there were also many that were probably brought forth for use as a bed cover in connection with a wedding. However, a close study of probate records indicates that this was not the only purpose for which “Flemish” textiles were used. In a 1677 inheritance settlement for Thaasten Haldvorsen in Medalen in Eggedal, the distribution included “1 listings [border, molding] coverlet in the high seat in the living room” (Eker, Modum and Sigdal skifteprotokoll [probate record] no. 1, 1677; Engelstad 1956:121). It is a little unclear what usage was meant by the term listings. Was this a type of decorative interior textile that should lie in the high seat? Or did it mean that it should hang over it? In a similar case from Gudbrandsdalen in 1722 there is no doubt. There it says “1 Flemish cloth to set upon the wall in the high seat,” in the settlement of Joen Iversen in Søndre Langsett, Fåberg (Engelstad 1956:121). Here all indications are that this is a tapestry in the gobelin technique that should hang on the wall in the main room’s most prominent location.

A thoughtful discussion of tapestries and the sisters from Hekne

The method for weaving tapestries seems to have been a fashionable style that came to Norway from central Europe near the end of the 16th century. Fragments of pictorial weavings have been found from the beginning of the Viking Age in the Oseberg ship grave, made in a similar technique (free gobelin in combination with soumak), but the resulting expression is rather different. Perhaps pictorial textiles woven in the so-called Flemish-weave were first a fashionable phenomenon in towns, where this became a specialist handcraft in the 16th century (Sjøvold 1976:23). But the style developed during the first half of the 17th century into a distinctive expression in Gudbrandsdalen and surrounding areas, with an important center of activity in the north. In addition, the characteristic notching technique is an element that we do not find in the town-based tapestries. Even though the main technique may have come from the Continent by way of the towns, this manner of portraying collective stories has deep roots in Norway. Perhaps this is one of the reasons that Flemish-weave, which is so well suited to telling stories, got a secure foothold just there?

The distinctive Renaissance tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen were described and investigated by collectors and museum professionals as early as the 1920s and onwards. One of the questions that was particularly discussed was whether this type of textile was an imported phenomenon or whether it was an expression of a cohesive tradition that extended from the Middle Ages. In the 1950s, one of that time’s most prominent experts on historical textiles, Helen Engelstad, described these tapestries as a legacy from the Middle Ages (Engelstad 1956). But several leading voices in the museum world were not in agreement with her. They believed that the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries should be seen as pale and somewhat clumsy copies of the refined tapestries that were made in central areas of Europe in the 16th century, and that the inspiration without doubt had come to Gudbrandsdalen from the towns. Roar Hauglid, who at that time was the First Antiquarian [at Riksantikvaren, the Directorate for Cultural Heritage] and who aspired to become the National Antiquarian, wrote a rather tactless article in which Helen Engelstad’s theory received blunt criticism (Anker 1960; Hauglid 1956; Hoffmann 1958). The critics were correct in that the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries portrayed the same motifs and themes as Continental tapestries: well-known Bible stories, among others the Wise and Foolish Virgins, the story of the Three Wise Men, and Salome who received the head of John the Baptist on a platter. In this way the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries have clearly drawn inspiration from Continental areas. It is also correct that the special Flemish loom is technically distinct from the traditional warp-weighted loom. The discussion of the tapestries concerned primarily whether there was evidence of an unbroken textile tradition that used the same Medieval technique and patterns and extended to the 17th century’s tapestries (Hoffmann 1958).

This discussion, which happened mostly in the 1950s, should be seen in light of a nationalistic view of tapestry weaving. In the period from the end of the 19th century until around the Second World War, tapestry was seen as an especially Norwegian expression, both by the Lysakerkretsen [an artistic and cultural grouping in Lysaker west of Oslo] and Gerhard Munthe, and through Hannah Rygen’s associations with Norwegian roots in the tapestry weaving tradition (Larson 2011:245; Paasche 2018:21). At that time, the expressed intent was to tie Norwegian modern arts to what were seen as characteristically Norwegian traditions with deep roots. This idea was helped along by two sensational finds. In 1879 the Baldishol church was torn down, revealing a well preserved tapestry that proved to be from the early Middle Ages (1040–1190, Nockert and Possnert 2002:92). A few decades later, in 1904, a number of tapestry fragments were found in the grave mound at Oseberg. The grave itself was dated to the year 834, but the textiles could be somewhat older (Bonde and Christensen 1993:153-166; Vedeler 2019:117-123). However, after the Second World War, what were viewed as explanations based on nationalistic models were not as well received. The 1950s opposition is therefore neither surprising nor unique to tapestry weaving.

Nonetheless there are several things that make it worthwhile to take a closer look at Helen Engelstad’s original theory – and perhaps also to find parallels even further back in time than she envisioned. Her critics focused primarily on the tapestries’ technical and pictorial execution. But the idea behind such a special method of telling stories was not a part of the discussion.

Also belonging to this story is an exchange of views about the Hekne sisters. This was not a discussion about what the legend could contribute to the tapestry tradition, but a question about whether the Hekne sisters had existed or not. It was carried on in ‘back rooms,’ but it emerges by way of bits and pieces that have come to light in letters and brief references in the literature. The positivist, scientific ideal was strongly supported in the 1960s and 1970s in Norway, with an expressed purpose of producing objective, testable and values-free knowledge (Olsen 1997). The value of legends and recollected stories were not particularly well accepted. That which local communities experienced as a worthwhile part of the tapestries’ history was thus met with skepticism by those in the central museums. Pål Tallerås gives this somewhat laconic reporting of a letter exchange between Gudbrandsdalen residents and museum staff in Oslo in his book, Kyrkene i Dovre [The Churches in Dovre]:

…the Kunstindustrimuseet [Museum of Applied Art, now part of the National Museum] in Oslo says in a letter: “The story of the Siamese twins is a legend! Eilert Sund mentions it in his book Husfliden. It has nothing to do with reality.” Someone took exception to this and received this answer from Kunstindustrimuseet at NN: “Our position about the history of the Siamese Hekne sisters who wove such fine tapestries is that it is a legend, which is completely in agreement with the understanding of Professor Olav Bø, Institute for Folkeminnevitenskap [Folklore Studies] at the University of Oslo” (Tallerås 1978:42).

The response gives a clear impression of distance while defining the tradition of this legend as irrelevant to the tapestry tradition.

Collective textile narratives

Collective stories hold a community together. Telling such stories by way of textile pictures has a long tradition, both in Norway and in the rest of Europe. The best-known example is the Bayeux tapestry, which tells the story of William the Conqueror’s Conquest of England and the Battle of Hastings. The tapestry is made in the last half of the 11th century (Bertelsen 2018). In Norway we can detect this type of visual story telling in the hundreds of fragments of pictorial weavings that were found in the Oseberg grave from the 9th century. They tell stories of battles and processions, of witches and people assuming the skins of animals (Vedeler 2019). Small fragments of pictorial weaving that are found in other high status graves from the Viking Age show that these were not unique. Both a ship grave at Grønhaug on Karmøy, a grave at Jåtten in Hetland and a magnificent ship grave at Haugen on Rolvsøy include pictorial weavings (Bender Jørgensen and Moe 2020: 182–194; Hougen 2006:73–75). There is therefore good reason to suppose that this type of textile storytelling was an important part of the visual culture of the Viking Age. Perhaps we can draw this tradition even further back in time. Tablet woven bands with motifs of animals, birds and perhaps magical beings are preserved from the late Iron Age. Among other locations, examples of such are found at Evebø/Eide and Høgom (Magnus 1982; Raknes Pedersen 1982; Nockert 1991).

Tapestry evidence from the Middle Ages is rather sparse. But if we concentrate on visual story telling rather than looking at which techniques are used to make the textiles, things look a little different.

From Norway’s earliest Middle Ages a small fragment of double-cloth survived from Rennebu in Sør-Trøndelag. Although the fragment has since disappeared, it showed motifs that have clear parallels with the Oseberg tapestries (Vedeler 2019:99–101). From Baldishol in Hedmark there is, for all those interested in textiles, the famous tapestry dated to the period between 1040 and 1190. It shows scenes of people, animals and birds, and is likely an illustration of two months of the year (Engelstad 1952:58–63; Nockert and Possnert 2002:92).

Baldisholteppet. Nasjonalmuseet. (full record) Photo: Frode Larsen.

But there are also examples of embroidered tapestries that tell stories. One embroidered tapestry depicting a Biblical story comes from Høyland church and was made at the turn of the 13th century, while another comes from Tingelstad and is dated to the middle of the 16th century (Reinert 1988; Vedeler and Pedersen 2020).

A long line exists between the tapestries in the Oseberg grave of the 9th century and the tapestries in the gobelin technique from Gudbrandsdalen. However, the different techniques used to present these pictures, whether weaving or embroidery, when seen in this connection are of lesser importance. We also must not forget the lively narrative voices that come forth in several tapestries from Skog and Överhogdal in Härjedalen (1040–1170 A.D., Franzen and Nockert 1992; Oscarsson 2010:76; Possnert 2010). The pictures in these tapestries tie together the Old Norse mythology with stories from a developing Christianity. Until 1645 Härjedalen was a part of Norway, and there were strong connections both geographically and culturally between that area and the mountainous regions of central Norway.

Sources that were written down in the Middle Ages indicated that tapestries held a very special position within the storytelling tradition. Textile pictures are well suited to create emotions and provide visible details for telling well-known stories. It would be a long time before broad swaths of the populace could take advantage of a well-developed written culture. Oral and visual storytelling therefore served as an especially important tool to share and maintain collective memories. Nevertheless, this is a somewhat simplistic explanation that has been much debated (see for example Aavitsland 2004 for a thorough discussion). Generally, one can say that story telling is a foundational human strategy that makes it easier to accept the times in which one lives, and the society of which one is a part.

Several poems written down in the Middle Ages describe how textile pictures were used for just this purpose (Nordanskog 2006:217-221; Vedeler in press). One of these is Guðrúnarkviða in Den eldre Edda [The Poetic Edda], which relates how legends and stories were embroidered and woven into tapestries. After the death of Sigurd the Dragonslayer, Gudrun Gjukesdatter travels to Denmark to lick her wounds. There she weaves the fantastic story into tapestries. There are sturdy warriors with red shields, there are warships with golden heads on their prow, and the deeds of chieftains (Det gamle Gudrunkvadet:14–15).

A number of the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries have woven text appearing as a frieze between and around the figure panels. Often these are a combination of short explanatory texts that indicate what story is being portrayed. An example is found in a tapestry from Skjåk from the first half of the 17th century that portrays the Feast of Herod. Here the text reads: “S John when he was beheaded for the dance of a whore ano 13?” (Sjøvold 1976:48, National Museum number OK- 01707). Such minor explanatory texts can also occasionally be found in the older medieval tapestries. There is a good example in tapestry 1a from Överhogdal, where there is a small text, Guðby, written in runes, inserted under the figure of a house (Horneij 1991:138–140). Presumably these texts have been of lesser importance in the telling of the stories portrayed in the pictures. Copies of older tapestries, which have previously been called “replica tapestries,” offer an interesting commentary on exactly this point. Often the same story was repeated, and over time copied from one tapestry to another. When an older tapestry is laid in back of the new warp like a kind of “cartoon,” for technical reasons it is easy for the motifs on the older tapestry to appear reversed in the new. When the copy is done, the text is no longer readable in the usual way. This can be corrected during weaving if one can read and is clear therefore on the difference, but in a number of the copied tapestries the text is reversed. This could mean that the weaver either could not read, or perhaps did not care. Regardless of the reason, when seen in this light the text has less importance than the pictures. It is the pictures that tell the story, right up until they finally become indistinct decorative elements that no longer hold any meaning.

The weaver and the skald

Several major theorists have said that visual communication is closely linked with time, place and social belonging (Baxandall 1988; Bourdieu 2002; Gronow 1997). The storytelling tradition strengthens the solidarity of a place, whether large or small. In this regard it is also important to look more closely at who it is that actually participates in telling the stories, both of the tapestries and about the tapestries. The central elements of Old Norse mythology as they were written down in medieval literature probably had their origin in a tradition where oral and visual storytelling went hand in hand. They were part of a performance with more than one active participant, where the connection between the scene, the visual and the oral elements creates a whole (Vedeler, in press). Of course here the story portrayed in the tapestries would have a central role, but the storyteller was also an active participant.

From the start, Flemish-weave was likely a handcraft for the few, and never became something that “everyone” did (Sjøvold 1976:45). To a certain extent the weaver had the freedom to design the images, but at the same time they were bound by strict norms. In a number of cases old tapestries were regularly copied, with many examples of tapestries that are very similar. Aside from a few exceptions it is also the same stories that appear again and again. Nevertheless, there are some tapestries that stand out among the rest with their lively and imaginative execution or their distinctive motifs. Even if we do not know who the weavers were, it is reasonable to assume that the legends that grew up around them were tied to those who in one way or another stood out, either because of their skill, or because of their creativity, or also because of their otherness.

The tapestries are interior textiles with somewhat different usages. Some were used as coverlets for the bed, other as wall decorations. The tapestries that were meant to hang on the wall probably served as part of an oral storytelling tradition. From medieval literature we have stories of skalds [bards] who convey the tapestries’ stories for an invited audience in the king’s hall. In the saga about Olaf Haraldsson from the first half of the 13th century we hear about a tapestry with the story of Sigurd the Dragonslayer that was placed behind the king and his high seat in the hall. The king calls the bard to come to him and invites him to tell the story for those that sat in the hall: “Thorfinn the Skald sat on the bench in front of King Olav. Then the king said to him: Tell us, Skald, about that which is portrayed in this tapestry” (Johnsen 1922:58).

Medieval skaldic verse is primarily poetry, and therefore differs from prose narration in several ways. Skaldic verse has strict poetic meter, rhyme and not least a system for metaphor or set paraphrasing (Birgisson 2007:10). Nevertheless, the skald and the storyteller are similar in that they both operate within an oral landscape. Just as for stories told in prose, skaldic poetry has the goal of entertaining and making life meaningful and understandable (Birgisson 2007:66). But both in the medieval and the post-Reformation tradition, some skalds had darker motives. Verbal magic also included certain poetic forms, and this is reflected in the laws of Iceland from the 13th century. By the 17th century there was a term for the magic skald, skraptaskáld, or power skald (Hastrup 1987:332-333).

In less elite settings it is natural to suppose that it was the local storyteller whose task it was to tell the stories portrayed in the tapestries. The textiles were brought forth on special occasions and hung up as decorations in prominent places along the walls. This has been the tradition well into modern times in Norway (Hougen 2006:106–107; Vedeler in press). Storytelling tied to these tapestries has therefore been closely associated with celebrations and gatherings of many people. In such circumstances the colorful tapestries functioned in a dual role, as both decoration and as collective “memory cues.” The stories portrayed are not complete but give the plot a direction and bring forth central parts. Such is the case with the tapestry that portrays the legend of Guigemar, where we see the knight in the forest, the stag and the hind with the arrow. This is an indication of a combined oral and visual storytelling tradition for which we see traces from medieval sources. Despite the fact that the preserved version of Strengleikar was written down, these short stories were part of an oral tradition. The text explanations indicate that they were meant to be conveyed aloud, perhaps also accompanied by music (Budal 2009).

In the Orkneyinga Saga there is a scene where two skalds entertain a gathering with a competition to see which of them can make the best verse about the story shown in a tapestry in the hall. It is Christmas and there is a celebration, with tapestries hung up for the occasion. Then Earl Ragnvald challenges the skald Odd the Little, requesting that he make a verse about one of the warriors shown in the tapestry, and the Earl will do the same. (Orknøyingasoga 1929:85). The resulting competition in versifying is entertainment at its highest. The crux of the competition is that the poets must make their verses while thinking on their feet. But the two skalds have a ready source, a manuscript to take inspiration from, namely the tapestry on the wall.

The uncommon weavers: from Valkyries to witches and monsters

The weavers who made the tapestries have often disappeared behind the veil of history. Only occasionally do we hear of named artists. In such cases it is often a woman who in one way or another is distinguished by her difference.

The connection between the weaver’s art and uncommon capabilities can be traced back as far as the Viking Age. Magic is also strangeness. From the Middle Ages we find a number of stories from the sagas that identify unusual women’s capabilities to employ weaving and the use of magic to affect fate and change the course of history. One of the most well-known is found in Njål’s Saga. A man named Dørrud lived in Caithness, Scotland. It was Good Friday and he was out for a walk when suddenly he saw twelve figures come riding. They went into a house nearby, and he crept close to a small opening to see what they were up to. He saw that they were women, and that they were setting up a loom inside. But it was no ordinary warp-weighted loom. Instead of warp threads it had men’s intestines, and these threads were held taut by weights made of men’s heads. They used a war sword to beat in the weaving and an arrow in place of a weaving comb. Through gruesome songs about a battle they kept the rhythm in the bloody weaving. To his horror Dørrud discovers that this is a real battle they are singing about (Njåls saga 1951:261–264). Through this frightful weaving the fates of the warriors and the outcome of a battle far away are being shaped. These magical women are Valkyries, housewives and goddesses of fate all at the same time, and like Valkyries they have the power of life and death (Nordberg 2003:106; Friðriksdóttir 2020:6). In this story, the women who are weaving are not just passive storytellers, they are active participants who are affecting the course of history. What is expressed here is an understanding of the world as both practical and magical at the same time, without a division between what today we would call reality and mysticism.

In surviving tapestries from the Viking Age and the early Middle Ages one finds possible references to magic, or seid [sorcery]. With this type of magic one could see into the future, but one could also cause misfortune and disease, rob people of their wits and strength, open mountains and burial mounds and even commit murder (Price 2019:57). A woman with such powers is found in Torbjørg Veslevolva [volva = seeress], who is described in Eirik the Red’s Saga. She is equipped with a number of implements that help her perform sorcery. She holds a large staff in one hand, an object that itself can be a reference to spinning. When she conducts magic, she steps up on a platform, a seiðhjallr. There are several references to such platforms in the sagas, and it is quite clear that they are high, or raised high above the ground. When the sorceresses Heid and Hamglåma conduct magic in Fridtjof’s Saga, they both fall down and break their backs (Bugge 1901; Fosse 2013:38–39). It is worth noting here that medieval ideas about the magic of earlier times are drawn from an oral tradition and do not necessarily reflect factual practices (Friðriksdóttir 2013:57–58).

On one of the preserved tapestry fragments from Oseberg one sees a woman. She stands up on a flat platform, bound fast to a horse. She seems to turn her face upwards in the direction of a strange form that comes towards her. It is a giant woman, with a head that either forms a beak or horns. A likely interpretation of this scene is that it portrays a magical ritual (Vedeler 2019:53–55).

Woman standing on a platform, on the back of a red horse. Tapestry from Oseberg, Museum # C55000/377/13b2. Photo: Marianne Vedeler.

Another characteristic of the seeress is that she could see into the future. They could interpret signs and omens in nature and decode magical messages that might appear in, for example, the flight of birds. In the Voluspå [volva’s prophecy, from the Poetic Edda], a seeress foretells what will happen when the world as we know it ends. The End Times, or Ragnarok, is possibly portrayed in the tapestries from Överhogdal in Jämtland. There are scenes with animals, ships and human figures. A large animal opens its mouth wide, is this the wolf Fenrir that is in the process of destroying the world? And the ship that glides over a large tree with its branches spread outwards, is that the frightful Naglfar, a ship made from the fingernails of the dead, cast loose and setting its course towards the battlefield? But along with these ideas from a pre- Christian world we also find Christian symbols in this tapestry, and perhaps scenes from the Christian Apocalypse (Wikman 1996; Oscarsson 2010:32-37). In the Överhogdal tapestries, which are dated to 1040–1170, we find a unique combination of both a pre-Christian and a Christian world view.

After the Reformation it would seem that the connection between magic and tapestry still existed. Records of court documents from the end of the 16th century indicate that at least two of the women who were burned as witches at that time were associated with tapestry weaving. They were Johanne Jensdatter, Flemish weaver, and Anne Pedersdatter Beyer.

From legal documents we learn that witnesses who were considered trustworthy by the court testified that Johanne could make things fly through the air and make a storm come to life, and also scare cats on New Year’s Eve. But more serious still was that Johanne Jensdatter bewitched the pregnant wife of Mogens the Woodworker such that “she lost her purpose, and her body has become lifted and very thick and large as if she has been blown up, and she since then and still lies in great pain and agony” (Norske trolldomsprosesser, p. 634).

Johanne carried the name Jensdatter flamske, veverske [Jens-daughter Flemish, weaver]. This can be interpreted in two ways, either that Johanne came from Flanders, or that she wove Flemish-weave. I tend to believe the latter, but either way there is no doubt that she was connected with weaving. So was Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, the most well-known woman burned as a witch in Norway. She was a woman of the better classes, and legal documents reveal the story that connects Anne to the art of tapestry weaving. The origin of the witchcraft accusations against Anne were that she ordered a loom for weaving Flemish-weave from Giert snekker [carpenter]. She got into a dispute with his wife, who later became mysteriously ill. Anne was accused of casting a spell over Anna Snidkers and was later judged to burn alive (Gilje 2010:47).

Two unusual people with unusual talents are also at the center of the legend of the Hekne sisters. In descriptions of the Hekne sisters from early in the 18th century they are characterized as monsters with two heads and only one arm and one leg each. This is how the priest Stockfleth describes them in his inventory list for the Dovre church annex:

One long woven cloth: called Husboned: was a gift from the two sisters who were grown together and had only one hand and one foot each, but two necks and heads, each talked and ate and drank for themselves, these two sisters from one together made the husbona and gave it to the church, such that God should redeem them both from here at one time, which God did. This monster walked like a person and could make with their hands everything that they saw with their eyes and could make with their hands. Their parents lived above Lie, out in a house close to Graaberge called Hectne. One of them was called Gjertrud” (Stockfleth 1732).3

In early modern Europe, monstrous births found their way into everything from printed drawings to books about miracles to medical works. Strange creatures that were reported to have been born of human mothers ranged from monstrous fish to conjoined twins. These were extreme creatures, lying at the intersection between human and animal, between man and woman, between one and several. The word monstrum [monster] comes from monere, which means to warn. All these births had in common that they were seen as a sign or an omen that had to be decoded and interpreted (Bates 2020:119–120). When viewed like this, in many ways this is a direct continuation of the pre-Christian understanding of magical signs and omens in nature that we also recognize from medieval thought. An example is the warning about the king’s birth in Sverre’s Saga. Gunnhild, Sverre’s mother, has a remarkable dream. In the dream the midwife that is sitting with her cries out in fear:

“My Gunnhild! You have borne a strange fetus, awful to look at.” Three times she cried out the same words, and hearing the midwife cry the same with trembling voice, she wondered what kind of fetus it was that she had borne. She then thought it was a stone, rather large and snow white, and it glowed so brightly that it gave off sparks in all directions like glowing iron that is blown on in the forge (Koht 1995:12).

The understanding of the world as a universe of signs stretches back to Antiquity. But in the Early Modern period (ca. 1500–1700) it was important to document and systematize such happenings and group them with methods that made them understandable in a new way. This was also a time with a widespread belief that the End Times were near. People and nature were connected with invisible bonds, where each single element in a microcosm (the person) corresponds with an element in the wider world (macrocosm). With such an understanding, the birth of conjoined twins could be interpreted as a warning of Doomsday (Gilje and Rasmussen 2002:205–228).

A through line passes from the pre-Christian goddesses of fate and seeresses to the witches in the 17th century and thence to the Hekne sisters. They are different, they weave, and they have magic in their hands. Embodying a combination that is both frightening and inspires respect, they are interpreters of magic messages and they are creators of magic happenings.

The legend of the Hekne sisters lives on

The distinctive tapestry tradition in Gudbrandsdalen died out more or less at the end of the 18th century. Even so, the legend of the Hekne sisters persisted into the 19th century and has since remained alive. We see glimpses of it in the collection efforts of Eilert Sundt and later of Anders Sandvig (Sandvig 1907). But at least as interesting is seeing how the area’s own inhabitants continue to be inspired by the legend and the magic surrounding the Hekne sisters. A striking example is seen in memories noted down about a skilled weaver, Åse, who married into the Haugje farm in Dovre in 1812. When she relinquished supervision, there were said to hang a total of 12 tapestries in the great room at Haugje. Her name is especially tied to a tapestry that portrays the Three Wise Men, which now belongs to the Sandvig Collection at Maihaugen (museum number SS-14812). According to tradition, this tapestry took a very long time to complete. Åse was the one who completed it, and a cryptic sentence in the notes implies that this happened through inspiration or even with the help of the Hekne sisters. “Åse had the well- known Hekne-sisters to her home so she could see how they worked, but they were not there to do anything” (Doset, no date). What this actually means is unknown. The legend of the Hekne sisters originated over a hundred years before Åse’s time, so the preserved notes must refer to some sort of spiritual inspiration. A hint of magic lies between the lines.

Blue unicorn. Detail from a Three Wise Men tapestry. Maihaugen. Full record. Photo: Marianne Vedeler.

The Three Wise Men tapestry is in a Renaissance style and bears clear indication of having been copied from an older tapestry. Perhaps Åse had an older tapestry that, according to tradition, was woven by the Hekne sisters and that she used as a model? In any case, the sisters’ reputation for magical capabilities has been a part of the memories about Åse’s weaving.

The tapestry was sold by the family in 1951 to the Friends of the Sandvig Collection for the significant sum of 14,000 kroner, and is described for the first time in the museum’s yearbook the following year. The legend is not mentioned there, but it is noted that Fartein Valen-Sendstad, who was curator at the Sandvig Collection at that time, believed the tapestry had been made in the 17th century (Valen-Sendstad 1925:22).

Respect for and knowledge about the quality of handcraft must have been the basis for such legends arising in their time. There are oral stories about “Hekne weavers” that are tied to weavings on a number of farms in Gudbrandsdalen (Mytting personal communication). Through his novels Lars Mytting has brought forth the legend of the Hekne sisters to a larger audience. In his world, handcraft has meaning for how a community understands itself. Mytting writes with his feet squarely planted in local tradition, a skald of our time who tells us the story of the tapestries. Through him the legend is transformed in almost magical fashion into new art.

In closing

The tapestry tradition in Gudbrandsdalen ties together myths, legends and the visual storytelling tradition on several levels. That which immediately occurs to one is how the tapestries mediate collective narratives through their repetitive repertoire of Bible stories and medieval legends, just as tapestries from the Viking Age mediated collective stories that held meaning in earlier times. The stencil-like scenes that are portrayed show selected highlights in the stories. They point towards an oral and visual storytelling tradition that went hand in hand, just as there was a connection between the skald and tapestries in medieval halls and dwelling rooms. The legends of those who made the tapestries exist on another level. Here the weavers are central. These meta stories help to both keep the tradition alive and to bring forth the actors that otherwise are often silent or nearly invisible in the source material. In this context it makes little difference whether the stories are “true.”

The legend of the Hekne sisters is part of a common European idea that so-called monstrous births were special happenings that should be interpreted and decoded as messages. This points back to the pre-Christian symbolism of natural omens that was now interpreted in a new early modern understanding of the world. To consider the tapestries of Gudbrandsdalen in light of the stories they portray as well as the stories that have been told about the legendary weavers gives a different and richer picture than a single-minded focus on technique and execution.

Thanks

Thanks to Lars Mytting for enjoyable conversations, for the hunt for sources, and for useful commentary. Thanks also to Kirsti Krekling for important information, to Lisa Benson for assistance at the University Library, to Bjørn Bandlien for feedback, to Else Braut for allowing us to view the tapestries in storage at Maihaugen, and a huge thanks to Inger Martinsen for excellent assistance in the National Archives, Hamar. To think that we discovered a copy of Stockfleth’s inventory list! Two colleagues have given valuable suggestions for changes, without you the article would have suffered. A thousand thanks.

Marianne Vedeler,
email: marianne.vedeler@khm.uio.no 

Marianne Vedeler holds a position as Professor in Archaeology at the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo. Her primary area of research is the Viking Age and late medieval periods in Scandinavia.

Editor’s note: After reading this article, you might especially look forward to the final book in Lars Mytting’s Sister Bells trilogy. (Book One: The Bell in the Lake, Book Two: The Reindeer Hunters) It has been published in Norway as Skråpånatta, and will be available in translation soon. The final book contains references to the weavers as witches, the meaning of monsters in the 17th century, and the recording of the Hekne legend by the priest Stockfleth.

Translated by Katherine Larson
Affiliate Assistant Professor, Department of Scandinavian Studies, University of Washington

A print-friendly pdf version is here.

Notes

1 Discovered in a copy of the Kallsbok [parish register] for Dovre Annex, National Archive of Norway, Hamar, May 2022. Lesja priest archive OA. Sources of Stockfleth’s writings have been reported missing since the 1950s (Hoffmann 1958; Tallerås 1978:40).

2 Probate records show that the following farms were in possession of Flemish-weave tapestries in this period: 1658 Tofte in Sør-Fron, 1659 Hovind in Lom, 1660 Kruke in Vågå, 1660 Amundgård in Lesja, 1660 Bjorlien in Lesja, 1664 Opphaug in Lom, 1665 Bjokne in Lesja , 1665 Skjåk in Skjåk, 1666 Thogestad in Fron (?), 1669 Engelsgård in Dovre, 1671 Steig in Sør-Fron, 1671 Seggelstad in Sør-Fron, 1671 Gryting in Sør-Fron, 1672 Brek in Skjåk, 1673 Bjørnsgård in Dovre, 1674 Hundorp in Sør-Fron, 1678 Holen in Vågå, 1680 Forr in Sør-Fron, 1682 Håkonstad in Vågå, 1682 Listad in Sør-Fron (Engelstad 1956, 121). Many of these are large rich farms.

3 Transcribed by the author.

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Crown Princess Mette Marit Became a Weaving Student – And Now There are Full Weaving Courses and Waiting Lists

By Randi Berdal Hagen and Håkon Lie
Translation by Lisa Torvik

Translated with permission from the website of NRK Vestfold og Telemark; Published August 27, 2023; updated August 31, 2023. See the original here

Mette-Marit became a pupil – now there are full courses and waiting lists

A new world opened up for Crown Princess Mette-Marit when she discovered weaving.  Now interest for the hand craft is growing, including among young people.

Teacher and pupil:  Eli Wendelbo at Raulandsakademiet (The Rauland Academy, Telemark) is one of Crown Princess Mette-Marit’s weaving teachers.  Photo: Gry Eirin Skjelbred/NRK

Teacher and pupil:  Eli Wendelbo at Raulandsakademiet is one of Crown Princess Mette-Marit’s weaving teachers.  Photo: Gry Eirin Skjelbred/NRK

Crown Princess Mette-Marit has become a passionate weaver in the past few years. This has influenced many people to pay attention to this handcraft, says Ingrid Hamberg, who is in charge of the classes offered at Raulandsakademiet [The Rauland Academy, Telemark] . The Crown Princess has attended classes several times there for her new hobby.

Place of honor in the palace office 

Her great interest in weaving originated about three years ago.  The Crown Princess has spoken publicly about her new passion several times, most recently in a long NRK interview made in connection with her 50th birthday on August 19 (2023).

There she proudly displayed a work that has recently been given a place of honor in her office at the palace; a large and colorful telemarksteppe [overshot technique with threading pattern associated with Telemark tradition] which she wove together with her teachers in Rauland. “I got it home and thought goodness, that has to hang in here, it is as if it’s made for this room,” the Crown Princess said in the interview.

The tapestry has been given a place of honor in her office at the palace.  Photo: Eskil Wie Furunes/NRK

The tapestry has been given a place of honor in her office at the palace.  Photo: Eskil Wie Furunes/NRK

Interest is growing

In March, the Crown Prince and Princess were on an official visit to Rauland, to visit Raulandsakademiet in particular and the division of the university which is located in the same building. “This is your great passion now, it certainly is,” said Crown Prince Haakon about his wife’s weaving during the visit.

After the royal visit, course director Ingrid Hamberg noticed that interest [in weaving] is growing. “We are in the midst of a great weaving wave, where we are seeing that many, including the Crown Princess, are finding their way to the loom.”

Since the royal visit to Rauland in March there have been full classes and waiting lists for all the weaving courses.

“This year there have been many newcomers, people who have not taken classes here before.  Many have discovered that they can come here to learn.  We could call that a Mette-Marit effect,” says Hamberg.

And on the same weekend that the 50th birthday program was broadcast, some emails rolled in from people who were thinking of pursuing the same weaving education as Norway’s future queen.  

Eli Wendelbo and Ingrid Hamberg in the weaving studio at Raulandsakademiet.  Photo: Håkon Lie/NRK

Eli Wendelbo and Ingrid Hamberg in the weaving studio at Raulandsakademiet.  Photo: Håkon Lie/NRK

Younger and inexperienced people showing interest

Weaving courses are among the most popular courses offered through Norges Husflidslag [Norwegian Handcraft Association], says Tone Sjåstad, who is the communications advisor in the association.

Though weaving has long been popular in certain circles, she sees a change now. “We see that many younger people, who have not previously been engaged in hand craft, now showing an interest for weaving and signing up for classes.  It could have something to do with the Crown Princess,” says Sjåstad.

Praise for the weaving community

Crown Princess Mette-Marit has stressed how wonderful it is to be in a community of craftspeople, as during the official visit in Rauland. “There is so much exchange of knowledge in the way they work together.  Weavers are lovely people,” the Crown Princess then boasted.

Tone Sjåstad, Norges husflidslag  Photo: Ola Dybendahl

Tone Sjåstad, Norges husflidslag  Photo: Ola Dybendahl

Sjåstad believes this is significant. “People have noticed that this is also such a social experience,” she says.

Now Norges Husflidslag hopes for even more of the Mette-Marit effect. “I hope this great interest also leads to more people choosing this as a vocational path, that they will pursue it as a livelihood,” says Sjåstad.

The weaving education in Rauland is a series of courses arranged by Norges Husflidslag and the Association for Cultural and Traditional Education.  In addition there are shorter and longer weaving classes offered by local hand craft leagues throughout Norway.

[Editor’s note: The article included a short video of the Crown Prince and Crown Princess visiting Raulandsakademiet in Vinje, and weaving. See the video clip in the original article.]

October 2023

 

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Tusen takk!

A Special Notice: Beautiful Fall in New England and a Chance to See Frida Hansen’s Southward Tapestry

By Robbie LaFleur

East Coast friends! Please join me for a wonderful opportunity to view Frida Hansen’s monumental 1903 tapestry, Sørover [Southward], at Peter Pap Oriental Rugs in Dublin, New Hampshire. An exhibition and sale of rugs from private collections will be held at the gallery this coming weekend, with opening festivities (including a jazz band!) on Friday, September 29th. The show is timed for peak leaf season, a perfect time to visit Peter Pap’s extensive collections, only an hour and a half from Boston.

Frida Hansen’s tapestry will be a highlight. As Peter Pap wrote in his newsletter,

Many of you already know the amazing story of my discovery of the monumental tapestry by Norwegian artist Frida Hansen entitled Sørover in the collection of the late David McInnis. Now it is back in our Dublin, NH, gallery after hanging at LACMA and the Milwaukee Art Museum in the exhibition Scandinavian Design in America: 1890 to 1980. This exhibition originated in Oslo, Norway and my discovery hadn’t been made at the time of printing of the catalogue so they devoted a full page with a black and white photo from 1925!

Frida Hansen, Sørover [Southward], 1903

I will hold a lecture on Frida Hansen and the wonderful tapestry of swimming swans and maidens on Saturday at 4pm. The Norse mythology image is of swans and maidens sailing southward after bringing summer to the northern lands. My stories will focus on what happened after the swans “swam” to America – exhibitions in New York and around the country, its disappearance, and rediscovery. The best part of attending this lecture will be the opportunity afterwards to ask questions and walk right up to the tapestry to understand its beauty and structure.

Reservations are not needed, but I’d love to know if you are coming. (lafleur1801@me.com) You can review the articles on Frida Hansen and the rediscovered tapestry here: norwegiantextileletter.com/sorover/

In addition to the lecture, I will hold an Instagram Live session at 2 pm on Saturday, September 30, with Southward as the special guest. Please ask questions about the tapestry, request to see a close-up of any sections of the image (except those I can’t reach ten feet up on the wall), and share your comments and observations.

And the Rugs!

Peter Pap will be offering rugs from the collections of noted collectors. Featured will be the remainder of the late Dr. Charles Whitfield’s collection, including his exceptional group of Baluch rugs. Rugs and classical fragments from the collection of the late Dirck Bass of Guernville, California are included. Rugs from the collection of Thomas Edwards of Rhonert Park, California, are another outstanding addition to this exhibition. All these the offerings are new to the market. Some of these rugs were in a landmark exhibition called “Tribal Visions” that took place in Marin County, California, in 1980.

Rugs in the show will be featured on Peter Pap’s website, peterpap.com, and on his Instagram feed, @peterpaprugs, on the days preceding the show.

It would be wonderful to see you here next weekend, at this gorgeous gallery, but with even prettier leaves surrounding it.

Embellishment! Fiber Entries at the Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum Exhibit

Embellishment

Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum, Decorah, Iowa
July 6, 2023–January 5, 2024

This special folk art show focuses on the importance of detail in folk art and features 71 pieces by contemporary folk artists from around the country.

The Norwegian Textile Letter regularly features weavings from Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum’s National Exhibition of Folk Art in the Norwegian Tradition. Going forward, the National Exhibition will be held every other summer, and alternate with special themed exhibits like this year’s Embellishment. There were a number of objects in fiber included — wonderfully embellished! Thank you to the staff at Vesterheim for supplying photos and the artists’ statements for us to enjoy a virtual visit. 

 

Laura Berlage. Hayward, Wisconsin.  “Purse of Dreams”

Offering an embroidered bag or purse was a common gift of devotion or courtship. I wanted this purse to have that feeling of specialness and magic. All the elements, from the loom-beaded top with wire warp to the braided handle to the butterfly pin, were in my stash.

I was delighted with embroideries from the 16th and 17th centuries. Inspired by curving, floral designs in crewel and braided goldwork, I couldn’t keep myself from trying it. Little did I know how difficult embroidering on velvet would be! Every element had to first be padded with a felt or corded base, so the embroidery and beadwork could be stitched on top. The process took months. 

I’m a prolific fiber artist and Vesterheim instructor, living and working on my family’s homestead farm in northern Wisconsin. My work delights in the overlap of narrative and visual and bringing ideas into form. Artist website: erindaletapestrystudio.com 

 

Marcia Cook. Decorah, Iowa. “Holiday Vest”

vest

My inspiration for this holiday vest came from a Scandinavian dress. Originally, it was to be all wool except the polyester lining. I soon tired of trying to complete a mirror image. I added silk ribbons, threads, and glass beads and had fun coloring outside the lines. 

I’m a career goldsmith from the Pacific Northwest. I am a maker of my own clothes and started making embellished jackets when I moved from Seattle to Skagway, Alaska, 25 years ago. Travel in Alaska required patience and needlework filled the time. Since moving to Decorah, I’ve become more involved with my Norwegian heritage. I love the swirls and floral patterns in rosemaling. 

 

Janette Gross. Santa Cruz, California. “Chaos to Wisdom” Weaving

Runes have always fascinated me. Rather than carving them in stone, I used soumak (weaving technique) to add texture and embellish my tapestry to tell a story of moving from chaos to wisdom and understanding. I am exploring wedge weave which originated with blankets woven by the Diné Nation (Navajo) in the late 19th century. Wedge weave is woven diagonally which distorts the warp and results in scalloped edges. I add a card-woven edge to further define the scallops and create a neat and even selvedge. I mostly use wool singles, adding an additional twist to better reflect light. 

I naturally dye wool and weave with it but sometimes add silk, cotton, plastic, or whatever is called for in the piece. This is part of my climate change series to encourage others to take care of the planet. I live in Santa Cruz with my husband and dog Finnegan. Social media: janettemgross104

Rune translations:

  1. Chaos/hail/storm
  2. (top) Challenge (bottom) Hopes/ fears/ water
  3. Shield/protection/defense
  4. Trust/faith/support/progress
  5. War/battle/victory/honor/ justice
  6. Vitality/wisdom/understanding

 

Elea Jourdan. Decorah, Iowa. “Northern Lights” Wall Hanging

My wall hanging was inspired by a photo of the northern lights in Norway. I knew the best way for me to express this was with the technique of wet felting. Traditionally, a Scandinavian pile wall hanging would be created by laying down long locks of wool as one is weaving. But my “wet felting” technique starts with a layered strip of merino wool, laid out on a flat table. I proceeded to lay these beautiful locks along the outside of the merino wool and wet it down with warm, soapy water. Then the locks are felted-in with a felting paddle.

I have been a textile and clay artist for the past 30 years. Textiles have been a continuous part of my creative life. I have been influenced by my own Norwegian heritage. My work is a remembrance of our Nordic traditions and folklore, inspiring me to create my distinctive type of art. 

 

Robert Lake & Mary Jane Lake. Viroqua, Wisconsin. “Celebration of Norwegian Rosemaling through Quilting 

quilt

Mary Jane is a quilter and is always looking for inspiration. Finding rosemaled fabric for this project was a dream come true. She combined her knowledge of rosemaling and free-motion quilting to create this wall-hanging. Using the rosemaled fabric as the focal point, she added two borders. Next, she pinned the backing, wool batting, and top together into a sandwich and filled the entire piece with free-motion quilting. The dark red piping in the binding added another embellishment to bring the entire quilt together.  

Robert has been a woodworker for 50 years; he fills their home with beautiful handmade furniture and other wooden objects. He discovered chip carving about 30 years ago and hasn’t stopped since. He created the chip-carved basswood hanger to “top” it all off.

The Lakes moved to Wisconsin 55 years ago to pursue a dream of growing their own food while continuing their careers in education.  Mary Jane was a special education teacher for 34 years and Robert was a guidance counselor. They continue to grow and preserve most of their food today.

 

 

Miranda Moen. Austin, Minnesota. “Hamarvotten Mittens.”

This work follows the Hamarvotten (Hamar mitten) pattern designed by Mette-Gun Nordheim. It depicts the signature arches of Domekirkeruinen, the Hamar Cathedral ruins, which survived the Seven Years War attacks in 1567 and are a present-day icon of the city. While in Hamar, Norway, due to pandemic restrictions, I started to learn to knit. Over the following months, I continued knitting almost every night and through which I found camaraderie with others. Every time I look at this pattern it brings back memories of one of the best years of my life.

I am an architectural designer driven to serve rural communities through cultural heritage research, attainable architecture, and creative projects that ignite economic development. In 2020 I founded MO/EN, a regional design and research practice headquartered in Austin, Minnesota. I was awarded a Fulbright U.S. Student Fellowship to Norway in 2022. Artist website: www.moendesignpractice.com

 

Rosemary Roehl. St. Cloud, Minnesota. “The Dog Days of Summer” Weaving

I find figurative boundweave (creating figures while weaving boundweave or krokbragd) fun to weave. I used bows and fuzzy yarn and French knots to add bees, cardinals, apples, and pesky ladybugs. This weaving was inspired by nature. I am a self-taught weaver focusing on traditional Norwegian weaving. I fell in love with Norwegian weavings during my first trip to an ancestor’s home on the Nordfjord in 1978. 

I started competing in the Vesterheim National Norwegian-American Folk Art Exhibition in 1983. I received a Vesterheim Gold Medal in Rosemaling in 1992. I enjoy exploring different ways to use traditional techniques and color. I taught at St. Cloud State University (MN) in the College of Education and retired in 1997. 

 

Juli Seydell Johnson. Iowa City, Iowa. “Reaching to the Sun” Quilt 

This piece began as a very basic quilt. When done, it was pretty, but didn’t feel “finished.” I was inspired to transform the quilt after painting in the Telemark style in a workshop with Nancy Schmidt. My own designed embellishment for this quilt flowed quickly after a weekend of painting and it grew into a vibrant interpretation of flowers growing toward the sun.

I am an artist who primarily works with textiles. My art is often inspired by nature and everyday activities. I like to make bold interpretations of what I see. I use fun colors that brighten a space and make people smile. I started taking rosemaling classes in 2019 to connect to my Norwegian heritage. The colors, shapes, and techniques have added a new and exciting dimension to my textile work. Artist website: buffalograce.com

 

Renee Thoreson. Rochester, Minnesota. “Hardanger Elegance” 

I love the feminine lines and delicate detail of the pattern. I also love blue, and the master level of skill needed to execute the design. When I heard that the theme this year was “Embellishment,” I just had to add a little glam with the crystals and beads! I hope you like it too!

I am a folk artist who loves all things Norwegian. I have been stitching since I was three years old. It started with lacing cards and progressed to embroidering hens on potholders. I did cross stitch until I ordered hardanger embroidery books from Nordic Needle (Fargo, ND) which then became my new folk art passion. I also love to rosemal and grew my skills here at Vesterheim. My late dad introduced me to wood carving, and we enjoyed classes together at Vesterheim. Engaging in folk arts is my dad’s legacy and one I will pass on.

 

Joshua Torkelson. St. Paul, Minnesota. “Selbu Hat” 

This hat is made using patterns and motifs found on historic examples of mittens and sweaters from the Selbu area of Norway. What I love about these patterns is that they can be found on all clothing, ranging from Sunday best to everyday clothes. Functionally, the colorwork adds two layers of yarn when knit, making the garment twice as warm. The folded brim also gives extra warmth around the ears.

I am a woodcarver, knitter, and folk artist. I have been carving since middle school and find inspiration in historic carvings and patterns. I also began knitting in earnest in 2020 and found a passion for colorwork, particularly Norwegian Selbu motifs. In all my work, I am fascinated by repeated patterns and the elaborate decoration of everyday objects. Instagram: @josh_torkelson 

 

Lisa Torvik. St. Paul, Minnesota. “Kalendar” Weaving

The medieval Baldishol tapestry discovered in a church in Norway in the late 19th century is the inspiration for my piece, “Kalendar.” I used the overall dimensions and decorative framework of the original’s design, which consists of two panels, “April” and “May” showing activities of sowing and warfare, respectively. This is believed to be the surviving fragment of a long frieze depicting all the months of the year. I chose the months of my birthday and my husband’s birthday to showcase elements of our lives and interests and incorporated several different techniques of textile construction and embellishment.

Growing up in Decorah, I was exposed to art and culture and a lot of Norwegian influences. My mother encouraged artistic expression and music and introduced me to knitting and weaving. In high school, I participated in a youth exchange with Valdres, Norway, and it deepened my interest in textile arts and weaving. Higher education and work have delayed my return to the loom for the past 10 years or so. Now I enjoy letting my weaving knowledge develop in new directions. 

 

Robbie LaFleur. Minneapolis, Minnesota. “Post Lockdown: Together Again”   

rug

Rag rugs are common textiles in Scandinavian homes. This rug includes bed sheets from three sources: a sheet from my great-uncle’s time, a decades-old sheet of my own, and thrift store sheets. This rug is a companion to a very different wool krokbragd rug woven during COVID-19 lockdown. This rug was woven as part of a group warp at the Weavers Guild of Minnesota. I truly appreciate the time to be “together again” with fellow weavers, friends, and family. 

I have been following a thread of Scandinavian textiles since I studied weaving at Valdres Husflidskole in Fagernes, Norway, in 1977. I received a Vesterheim Gold Medal in Weaving in 2002. I coordinate the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group and publish the Norwegian Textile Letter (norwegiantextileletter.com). In 2019, I received a fellowship from the American Scandinavian Foundation to study the transparency technique of famed Norwegian tapestry weaver Frida Hansen in Stavanger, Norway. Artist website: robbielafleur.com  

 

The Best of Show Award and Jurors Choice Awards did not include a winner in fiber, but perhaps none could compete with a rosemaled plate including Edvard Munch Skrik heads!

Juror’s Choice: Jerry Johnson, Stoughton, Wisconsin. “My Scream Plate”

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 
August 2023

Celebrating Sprang, a Traditional Twining Technique

By Robbie LaFleur

I knew little about sprang until recently when I ran across the work of Liilian Saksi. This young Norwegian artist has taken the traditional white lacy technique and used it to create contemporary geometric art works full of color and meaning.

I had also seen references to Carol James, an American who learned about sprang and then used it as a springboard to design complex patterns and amazing pieces of clothing. She has written books and produced videos teaching the technique.

It is inspiring to read about these two artists, who each in their own styles took a traditional technique and made it their own. Read: “Liilian Saksi: An Artist in Språgning,” and “Twist of Fate: Carol James’ Journey in Sprang.”

A Short Introduction to Traditional Sprang with Some Examples

Sprang is appreciated in Norway as a traditional braiding technique. Most people think of white lacy borders on curtains or towels when sprang is mentioned, like this piece owned by the Sverresborg Trøndelag Folkemuseum.

Lace border in sprang technique. Sverresbord Trøndelag Folkemuseum. (full record)

The sprang technique is included on the Rødliste [Red list] of endangered traditional handcraft techniques by the national handcraft association, Husflid. The Husflid local group in Vågå studied sprang. Their document on the technique includes photos of contemporary items made with sprang, like gloves, a lampshade, and a dress for a small girl. There are two demonstration videos (in Norwegian). Their introduction to sprang reads in part [translation mine]:

In sprang, a braiding technique, yarn is stretched between two sticks or on a frame. The threads, which are left parallel, are wound around each other and can form different patterns. The technique has been widespread over large parts of the world and the oldest finds are from Egypt from approximately 2000 BCE.

In the Nordic countries it has been known since the Bronze Age. The oldest finds in Norway are dated 300–400 CE and are made of wool.

Among the textile implements in the Oseberg find from the first half of the 8th century is a frame that is assumed to have been used for sprang. In Norway, the technique has been widely used to make decorative objects, such as tablecloths, decorative towels and curtains.

Here is a frame with sprang underway.

Photo from the Sverresborg Trøndelag Museum of a sprang frame. (full record)

This description of the sprang frame comes from the Sverresborg Trøndelag Museum [translation mine].

A simple and square sprang frame made of untreated wood. There are 21 holes on each vertical side. In these, the warp threads are attached at the top and bottom. With the help of the holes, you can choose the length of the work. The warp threads are attached to a wooden plug which is fixed in the holes. The yarn for the sprang work is lashed around the warp threads above and below. It is braided/twined from the top. The work is identical above and below. Dividing sticks (4 flat wooden strips) have been inserted in the work. The sprang frame has simple feet with a cross plank in between. Sprang, sometimes called bregding, is an old and special needlework technique.

Sprang Artifacts in Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

Here are four examples of historical sprang, from the collection of the Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum.

1975.033.003 and 1977.065.002.  Both pieces were made by Camilla Heiberg Stoylen of Bergen, Norway. 1977.065.002 was made in about 1915 and used as trim for a curtain. 1975.033.003 was probably made at about the same time.
Camilla (or Kamilla, 1869-1957) grew up in an old merchant family. She attended boarding school in Växjo, Sweden, where she learned sewing, weaving, and other textile techniques.  The sprang pieces were brought to the U.S. by Camilla’s son, either in 1921 when he immigrated or on a later visit home. It was donated to the museum by Sigvald Stoylen.

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum piece 1977.065.002.

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum piece 1975.033.003.

1985.129.017.  Ingeborg Husan Sjetne (1877-1963) of Hedmark, Norway, made this piece of edging and entered it in a 1952 textile exhibition organized by her local chapter of Bondekvinnelaget (Rural Women’s Association). It was donated by Marie Skramstad DeForest.

LC0819.  This piece was originally part of De Sandvigske Samlinger Museum Collection (now called Maihaugen) in Lillehammer, Norway. It was sent as part of a large group of gifts from Norwegian museums to the Luther College Museum (now Vesterheim) to celebrate the centennial of Norwegian immigration in 1925.

This piece originally came to the U.S. from the Maihaugen Museum in Lillehammer, Norway.

Maihaugen still owns many examples of sprang; here are 17 pieces  still in the Maihaugen collection, as shown through the Norwegian Digital Museum.

These Vesterheim pieces are the ones that sparked Carol James’ book Sprang Patterns and Charts Inspired by Samples in the Collection of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum. (Read more about the book in “Twist of Fate: Carol James’ Journey in Sprang.”

I still don’t know much about sprang, really, but I understand the concept more after trying Carol James’ short introductory video. I recommend it! I felt clumsy while manipulating just a few strands of yarn, and had to go back and begin again a few times, but isn’t that true of any new handcraft technique?

I have a ways to go before I can create a shirt or an art work with sprang, but it is fun to admire historical sprang and the work of contemporary artists. I hope you enjoy getting to know their work.

robbielafleur.com
Instagram: @robbie_lafleur
Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

 

 

 

Book Review: Continuum by Solveig Aalberg

By Molly Elkind

I’ve been weaving tapestry for over 10 years and teaching approaches to tapestry design for at least five years.  I’m always on the lookout for other tapestry weavers doing interesting contemporary work, to inform my own work and to share with other weavers.  I came across this blog post on the Textile Forum blog, about a body of work by Norwegian fiber artist, Solveig Aalberg, that I am excited to share. 

Aalberg has made a series of 100 small pieces that she calls “miniatures” which together form the series Continuum.  Each one measures about 20 x 24 cm, or roughly 7.75 x 9.5 inches.  Each features horizontal stripes in some form.  They are woven in tabby or double weave in a variety of fibers.  As she wove the series, Aalberg designed a book that reproduces every single piece, Continuum:  Woven Miniatures.  The book devotes a full page, or in some cases two pages, to each tapestry, and for each, the fibers and colors used are listed with a numerical notation that indicates the number of times each color is repeated.

Solveig Aalberg, Continuum #020, 2018.  Linen, cotton, polyester.

As I began to look through the book, I realized that far from becoming repetitious the project allowed for almost infinite variation within Aalberg’s parameters.  The idea that boundaries and limits actually free us up for greater creativity has been coming up in my tapestry feedback group discussions lately, and Aalberg’s project is a perfect example of how that can work.

Aalberg says in an interview included at the end of the book that her work is “all about reading the world around me by organizing structures and repetitions.  Tapestry’s strict framework of horizontal and vertical lines provides a basis for working on my visual idiom.  It might seem restrictive, but it is a challenge that triggers me.” (p. 260).  She goes on to say that systems and mathematics allow for rhythmic repetitions would not be possible otherwise:  “. . . structures build up contrasts and juxtapositions that you couldn’t envision beforehand without using these systems.” (p. 265).

While Aalberg’s work starts with weaving on the loom, she further develops each piece by adding stitching, sometimes subtle straight stitches that meld with the weft, other times wild loops and dangling threads that create a riot of texture on the back.  These pieces are pictured front and back on double-page spreads.  In all the pieces, a delight and curiosity about color is the driving force.

Solveig Aalberg, Continuum #036 back, 2020. Linen, cotton, polyester and reflex.

Solveig Aalberg, Continuum #036 front, 2020.  
Linen, cotton, polyester and reflex.

Aalberg has worked on a very large scale many times, but for this project she chose a format that invites the viewer to “experience the work up close” in an “intimate and personal” way (p. 264).  Many of us are attracted to small format work not only because it is portable and more quickly accomplished than large work, but precisely because it speaks one-on-one to the viewer.

Pieces from the Continuum series have been exhibited in various shows in Europe, and several have been sold.  Aalberg hopes that the works will be widely disseminated and that they can “thereby make a little statement about how everyday life is influenced by how we do the same thing again and again, but with either minor or major changes.  In that way, each miniature can be read as a metaphor for the days we live” (p. 267).

Solveig Aalberg, selections from Continuum at Haugesund Kunstforening og Billedgalleri, 2020.

Regarding her commitment to a long-term project over several years, Aalberg admits, “It does cost something to bring this about–that is also part of the process.  Showing tenacity, holding on to your idea, not letting go.  If I had abandoned Continuum, it would be like going back on a promise.  It would feel like a betrayal” (p. 267). This struck me–how often do we as artists lose heart, have crises of confidence, or simply bow to the ongoing pressures of life and abandon our big ideas?

Regarding the book itself, in addition to the interview with the artist, an essay by writer Ole Robert Sunde is included, whose work Aalberg feels draws on similar themes.  All text, including captions for the tapestries, appears in Norwegian and English.  Several installation shots of the work show how it is mounted approximately 4.5″ from the wall, so that it casts a shadow and attains a sculptural presence.  It is a beautifully photographed and produced hardcover book.  You can order it here for 380 Norwegian kroner, about $38 plus shipping.  For me this book is a wonderful counterpoint to Sheila Hicks’s Weaving as Metaphor, which contains images of dozens of her experimental minimes.  Both artists work in small format, but their approaches and results are very different.  Food for thought.

This review first appeared on Molly’s blog, https://mollyelkindtalkingtextiles.blogspot.com on October 12, 2022. 

https://mollyelkindtalkingtextiles.blogspot.com
Instagram: @mollyelkind
Molly Elkind earned an M.A. in Studio Art from the Hite Art Institute at the University of Louisville in 2002. Exhibition highlights include two solo shows in Atlanta (2009 and 2018)  and numerous juried and invitational shows nationwide.  Molly has been published in a number of fiber art-related publications, and her work is in several private collections.  Besides making art, Molly is passionate about teaching it, with a particular focus on design principles and processes.  She is based in Santa Fe, New Mexico and teaches both online and nationwide for guilds and conferences.  

Editor and author’s note: These images are screen shots from Aalberg’s book. The book images are of much higher quality. 

March 2023

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Norwegian Double-Cloth: Warp-Weighted Loom Experiments in a Complicated Technique

By Katherine Larson and Marta Kløve Juuhl

Editor’s note: This article appeared in Archaeological Textiles Review No. 64 (ATR), published in 2022 by the Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen. A wealth of detail on how this technique may have been woven will be of interest to warp-weighted loom enthusiasts, but anyone interested in solving puzzles may also enjoy this article. Links to the article and its foundational study appear below, but first here is a summary from one of the authors, providing you with the background and highlights of studying double-cloth on the warp-weighted loom.

The coverlet-width warp woven for the 2022 double-cloth study. From ATR No. 64

Go Big or Go Home – The Importance of Textile Width

By Katherine Larson

Double-cloth, also called double-weave (dobbeltvev in Norwegian), has a history in Scandinavia. The somewhat complicated weave structure meant that this was not an every-woman technique, but for a knowledgeable few it did provide an effective means for creating free-form patterning on a simple loom: Set up two warps of contrasting color, exchange the warps in selected places, and now you were weaving a bridal procession instead of plain old stripes and plaids. What a break-through moment for the weaver who first figured this out! Some manipulation with pattern boards would be required to hold the contrasting warp layer apart for a weaving shed, but if you were clever enough to conceive of double-cloth in the first place, that part would be easy. 

This 17th century Norwegian reversible double-cloth textile, a fragment of a once longer piece, depicts riders on horseback, possibly representing a bridal procession. OK-10878, National Museum, Oslo.

Double-cloth has been known in parts of Scandinavia since at least the Viking Age. The occurrence of Persian double-cloth fabrics within the same time frame suggests that our clever weaver of the north may have seen an exotic textile from a distant land and set about adapting her home loom to reproduce this brilliant new idea.

A narrow medieval double-cloth fragment from Rennebu, Norway. The figures on the left possibly depict two women weaving on a warp-weighted loom. Museum of Cultural History, UiO, Oslo.

The ‘home loom’ of the north, of course, would be the warp-weighted loom, which was used for weaving reversible double-cloth for centuries in Scandinavia. Even when the technique’s flashier cousin came along – non-reversible double-cloth, woven on the treadle loom – the reversible technique still prospered for a while. A significant body of 18th century coverlets provides ample evidence for both of these double-cloth traditions, but while the non-reversible technique survived long enough to be documented, the reversible version fell out of use before anyone thought to describe the process. Yet over 80 coverlets in the reversible technique, many in excellent condition, provide mute testimony to the successful use of the warp-weighted loom to produce relatively complicated textiles. 

Non-reversible double-cloth lends itself to finer pattern elements than the reversible technique. Details of double cloth coverlets: reversible (left) OK 01696, National Museum, Oslo; and non-reversible (right) NF !910-0433, Norwegian Folk Museum.

The initial study

The coverlets of this gone-but-not-forgotten weaving tradition provided the starting point for my decade-long study to consider how reversible double-cloth might have been woven on the warp-weighted loom. Over the course of many research trips, I found that details inadvertently ‘recorded’ in the coverlets by the weavers themselves provided a surprising amount of information about how the loom may have been set up, while experimentation with various possibilities on the warp-weighted loom served to rule out a few ineffective options (most notably the natural shed). Based on these findings I proposed a possible method for weaving double-cloth on the warp-weighted loom. 

Studying a double-cloth coverlet at the National Museum in Oslo, 2009. Photo: K. Larson

Studying the medieval Lomen double cloth textile. Photo: K. Larson

As with any warp-weighted loom research, Marta Hoffmann’s groundbreaking documentation of plain-weave methods on the warp-weighted loom (The Warp-Weighted Loom 1964) provided the foundation for this research. But double-cloth is more complicated than plain-weave, and even Marta Hoffmann’s carefully qualified speculation, that double-cloth patterns may have been picked by hand instead of with the use of additional sticks, did not stand up well to observation, experimentation and speculation. 

The word speculation deserves repeating here: not for naught was Hoffmann so careful when straying from known facts. While my proposed method for weaving double-cloth was based on reasoned guesses and experimental results, it was still speculation. It was not entirely surprising, then, when a flaw emerged, all of which underscores the importance of Hoffmann’s documentation of an actual living weaving tradition. 

The 2022 study

Words to live by: What works at one width sometimes does not work at another. The error in the proposed weaving method seems obvious in retrospect, but textile width was just one of many factors in the initial study. Warping a loom for double-cloth takes a long time, and the study’s experimental textile (30 cm) was designed to require minimal setup when traveling to various locations. This facilitated what was then a top priority: consulting with knowledgeable warp-weighted loom weavers while testing different loom configurations. Since simply forming a reasonable shed was an early stumbling block, the width of the experimental weaving was low on my list of concerns. However, once an apparent solution to serious warp-passage problems presented itself – a slight fanning of the warp threads accomplished by stretching the spacing chains – shed formation improved dramatically and I moved on to consider many other factors in weaving double-cloth. The element of textile width was not revisited. 

Evidence of pattern storing is found in Scandinavian reversible double-cloth textiles, and therefore experimentation with transferring stored patterns was part of the study.  This proved to be a straightforward process on the warp-weighted loom, especially in comparison to the treadle loom. Photo: K. Larson

The flaw in the proposed warp-fanning method emerged only after the initial study was complete. In contemplating the next logical step in understanding double-cloth, I decided to weave a piece based on the medium-width (~ 80 cm) procession textiles. This group of five decorative panels depicting a procession on horseback is generally thought to slightly predate the coverlet tradition. Unfortunately, shortly after I began pattern weaving on my procession textile it became obvious that the normally beneficial effects of stretching the spacing chains did not extend to the center of this wider warp. 

Procession double-cloth in progress. Photo: K. Larson

Warp-fanning had worked well for relatively narrow double-cloth textiles, and since four of the six surviving medieval Scandinavian examples were 30 cm in width or less, it is possible that this method served as a useful way to weave the earlier decorative panels. However, it clearly would not have accommodated even the modest width of the procession textiles, much less that of the coverlets, which ranged from 123 to 175 cm in width. I was back to square one.

I discussed my ongoing double-cloth research with Marta Kløve Juuhl, curator (now retired) at Osterøy Museum near Bergen.  Marta, an experienced weaver and a recognized expert in warp-weighted loom weaving, was intrigued by the idea of weaving double-cloth at full coverlet width. Thrilled to find someone else curious about this question, I arranged with Marta to start a project on one of the looms at Osterøy Museum in late February 2020. Unfortunately, the pandemic interrupted any idea of further joint work, but we continued to discuss the project regularly by email.

In warping the loom at Osterøy Museum, we used the same elements of loom setup as those in the initial study, with the exception of warp fanning. As expected, weaving did not go smoothly, requiring continual clearing of the sheds, a familiar problem. Nonetheless the small amount of weaving accomplished at Osterøy was instructive, identifying heddle length as the first issue to address. 

Setting up the coverlet-width warp at Osterøy Museum, February 2020; sewing the warp to the beam. From ATR No. 64

 

Preparing to attach the backmost row of weights to the warp. From ATR No. 64

Initial pattern weaving. From ATR No. 64

Fortunately, bringing the warp home to Seattle required cutting all those laboriously tied heddles. Since they would have to be retied anyway, I conducted a small interim experiment before putting the coverlet-width warp back on the loom. This study indicated two things: heddles held slightly taut by their warp threads, but also tied at different lengths for the forward and back layers, reduced heddle tangling during shed changes. The heddles were retied at the new lengths (all 1,494 of them) and heddle tangling receded as a problem.

Weights were the next issue, with the coverlet-width warp requiring a total of 100 weights at 1 kg each. While relatively narrow stones are plentiful in Norway, most of the field stones in the Northwest are nicely rounded thanks to thousands of years of glacial action. These were deemed too thick for the compact weight rows required. Suitably narrow weights were instead achieved by using coins, eight rolls of pennies per weight. Acquiring these coins at several banks felt distinctly odd, loading money into a reusable shopping bag while wearing a pandemic mask. Multiple banks were visited during this penny-acquisition spree due to withdrawal limits caused by a nationwide coin shortage, a problem no doubt exacerbated by the needs of warp-weighted loom research.

With the warp reestablished on the loom, the most likely avenue for improving loom function seemed to be the disposition of the weight rows. Four different configurations were tested, but one clearly outperformed the other three. In that configuration all weight rows were placed behind the shed rod, with the two rows of the forward layer held separate from their backmost neighbors by being tied at intervals to the shed rod. 

Four weight row configurations were tested in the 2022 study. Option ‘d’ was the most successful, with the two forward rows placed behind, but attached to, the shed rod. From ATR No. 64

In the final configuration, spacing chains of the two forward weight rows were tied to the shed rod. The chains formed slight arcs, providing additional stretching of the warps that was somewhat reminiscent of the earlier warp-fanning method. This effect may have assisted in warp passage. From ATR No. 64

This unusual weight-row disposition was inspired by an irregularity I had noted in several coverlets during the initial study. The method for establishing use of the warp-weighed loom in the first place had been a program of measuring irregularity in warp thread spacing. This irregularity is mostly disguised by the profusion of pattern in the coverlets, but is quite evident when measured. Oddly, several coverlets had a series of widely spaced warp areas that were somewhat evenly dispersed across the textile. It seemed possible that this represented a pull on the warp threads – or rather on the spacing chains – to hold the weight rows separate in some fashion. The success of the final configuration, with the forward weight rows tied to the shed rod, lends support to this possibility.  

Reversible double-cloth coverlets woven on the warp-weighted loom were the last chapter in a centuries-long tradition in central Scandinavia. Since available evidence points to narrower textiles being the primary decorative intent of medieval double-cloth, perhaps the appearance of the horizontal treadle loom had a role in encouraging this final chapter. The adoption of the treadle loom happened unevenly in Norway, but occurred at about the same time as the coverlets were woven. With the new loom’s superior capability to produce yardage, it seems likely that once it was acquired, the warp-weighed loom would have been abandoned. Yet for those with knowledge of the double-cloth technique, the now-empty looms may have represented an opportunity. After all, the slow pace of weaving a wider double-cloth textile would no longer be an impediment to the all-important need to produce yardage. 

The use of materials for double-cloth was also revisited in our 2022 study. Double-cloth has an inherent problem: weaving (and continually exchanging) two plain-weave warps in a space best suited to one. Medieval Scandinavian weavers addressed this problem by using a (smooth) layer of linen vs. a layer of colorful wool, but the Norwegian weavers of both the procession panels and the coverlets had transitioned to a new set of materials. In these textiles the linen layer was replaced by a sheep-brown warp that, as evidence from the initial study indicated, was predominantly composed of hair from the dual-coated northern European short-tailed sheep. This relatively smooth fiber likely functioned as well as linen, and the resulting textiles, now all sheep’s wool (or nearly so), may have had a more appealing hand than those made with a layer of linen. 

Perhaps a similar spirit of innovative was at work in solving the problems that arose when weaving double-cloth at a wider width. Since the warp-weighted loom’s signature natural shed was (presumably) ineffective for double-cloth, the weavers may have reimagined the function of this basic loom part, using the shed rod as an attachment point for holding the double-cloth layers apart.

Or perhaps not. We cannot know for sure how double-cloth was woven on the warp-weighted loom, we can only experiment and speculate. 

Detail from Procession, 2019. Photo: K. Larson

For those interested in weaving double-cloth on the warp-weighted loom, I’ll be interested to hear what you find.  kllarson@uw.edu

Katherine Larson lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington. She has a doctorate from the University of Washington, where she is an affiliate faculty member in the Department of Scandinavian Studies, and she is the author of The Woven Coverlets of Norway.
Read the full academic article by Larson and Marta Kløve Juuhl from Archaeological Textiles Review:  “Norwegian double-cloth: warp-weighted loom experiments in a complicated technique”

The background research that forms the basis for the 2022 article can be read with these links: the study was published in the Norwegian Folk Museum yearbook (2015); and an account of the research process appears in an earlier Norwegian Textile Letter article (2012). 

The entire issue of Archaeological Textiles Review No. 64 is available online and can be accessed here.  Articles in this issue that might be of interest to readers of the Norwegian Textile Letter include experiments with 2/1 twill on a two beamed loom based on textile fragments from 400 BCE Scotland, rare finds of linen garments from a 17th century Swedish grave, and reconstruction of a tablet-woven band from 3rd-4th century Germany.

Border from Procession. Photo: K. Larson

March 2023

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

To Seek Connections (Or Wanting to Know Where Things Come From)

By Anne Karin Jortveit

Editor’s note: This essay is included on the website of the artist Liilian Saksi, featured in this issue, “Liilian Saksi: An Artist in Språngning.” Anne Karin Jortveit is an author, critic, and artist; two of her textile works are highlighted following her essay. 

«No other animal tends so thoroughly to become (for most of us) nothing but a signifier or blank page or resource unit. For it is surely the case that, despite their massive contribution to our lives – past and present – we think less of sheep than just about any other animal.» – Philip Armstrong

A few years ago I waited for the ferry that would take me from Hovedøya to Aker Brygge [across the bay to downtown Oslo]. It was early fall. The sheep, who had worked a summer job for the community, now wandered about freely, accustomed as they were to the flood of people on the island. The flock had gathered at the edge of the pier, as if they also waited for the boat, as if they also were ready to leave. I stood and talked with a friend when I suddenly felt a careful, almost friendly nudge in my side. One of the sheep had come close to us without our noticing. It seemed like it wanted to be scratched on the nose. For a moment I forgot myself, taken up as I was with the conversation, and immediately I felt that little nudge again. The rest of the time before the boat arrived this bold little animal received my full attention, and I went onboard with a new understanding. From then on my interest in wool developed a greater depth, all because of a confident sheep.

Sheep in Sweden. Photo: Liilian Saksi

People talk about whether we have entered the Human Age, the Anthropocene. The whole world is affected by what we humans, with the help of technology, have created. We use, misuse and consume at an escalating rate, and often at the cost of something or someone. This truth also intrudes on the work of artists. When considering those who utilize animal fibers, the use of wool, and the fact that it once belonged to a living entity, undeniably becomes part of a larger picture. In this day and age, it is difficult to pretend that there is no connection. Within the fibers one finds the connection between animals and people. Wool is like a door that opens on the living world and between species. How do we manage this gift from nature going forward? With respect and care for its source? Or is it primarily just the material itself that has worth for us? We seek out the quality of the raw wool we wish to use, but spare few thoughts for the sheep body on which the wool actually grew. The sheep then becomes a distant supplier, reduced to fiber type and sorting. But perhaps it is precisely in the Human Age that we now have the possibility to truly reflect on the missing link between our materials and their origins?

The arts are a place where this concept can unfold. In artistic circles, one no longer considers just the aesthetics but also the ethics. For more and more artists these two categories are joined. This is not always expressed in themes, but nonetheless emerges as a driving energy, like an underlying attitude in artistic choices. To work with art is to be an active participant in the world, to be sensitive to events and changes, and to know that what one does affects the use of resources and leaves footprints. At the same time, one’s own motivation can inspire others, and can reflect back an uplifting feeling of contribution in this larger context. Wool also connects artists to others who value fiber, and of course on a higher level, textiles concern us all.

Anne Karin Jortveit. Hesje [Hay rack]. Hayracks are built up from loose parts, and this work changes with each installation. The panels are woven with the artist’s entire “thread archive,” yarn from her first spinning course through recently-spun yarn, and hung over a framework made of copper pipes. 363 x 103 x 44 cm. (11.75′ x 3.4′ x 1.4′)

Our familiarity with wool has very long timelines, one enters a handcraft relationship with roots that stretch back several thousand years. Sheep were among the first farm animals to be domesticated. Just in Norway they have been present for around 6,000 years. Wool is connected to survival itself, and before we learned to spin and weave we made felt, itself the original textile. Wool fiber’s unique characteristics have seen humanity through harsh winters and difficult weather. Wool breathes, provides insulation and draws dampness away from the body. It is flame resistant and dirt repellant. We have protected ourselves with it, and we have adorned ourselves with it. We have enfolded it in myths and stories. It’s no wonder that wool has been highly valued throughout history, often being considered more important than meat. As the respected felt maker Claudy Jongstra puts it: “Nature is so clever; the fibres are constructed so ingeniously that it intrigues me. To this day, we’ve been unable to make a fibre that combines the same characteristics and qualities. I think that’s unbelievable. I deeply respect that.”

Even when artists use spinning or felting in projects that do not have a practical use, an echo of wool’s contribution to life’s necessities and life’s pleasures is felt through mere contact with and manipulation of the material. Today wool is a byproduct of sheep raising, but fortunately some things are in the process of changing. It blossoms forth in the handcraft milieu, it is incorporated into artistic thinking, it enters into the design process. Even the handcraft enthusiast wants more than to knit with purchased yarn. It is about wanting to know. People seek out and bring forth tools, techniques and insights that have had changing and sometimes low status in our recent past. It is as if we want to assure ourselves that this knowledge is not lost, now that these skills are no longer passed seamlessly from one generation to the next. Most important of all, it is about taking care of and guarding the diversity of the surrounding landscape. This also raises questions about values, both material and existential, and between humans and animals. 

Sheep in Sweden. Photo: Liilian Saksi

As I finish writing this, I look over at Molly, my dog, where she lies curled up between the pillows on the sofa. She also has met the sheep on Hovedøya. On one of our trips we suddenly stood face to face with the whole flock. One sheep decided to take a step forward. I held the dog leash firmly, a little anxious. Both animals neared each other and finally stood nose to nose. When the other sheep saw that this was not a dangerous animal, they also came forward. I stood on the sidelines, touched as I observed what happened. Perhaps this was the same year as my own meeting on the pier. Perhaps it was even the same sheep that was seeking contact. 

«…to understand other living things, their environmental conditions, and their ecological relationships in such a way as to awake in us a deep sense of our kinships with them as fellow members of the Earth’s community of life.».  Paul W. Taylor

www.annekarinjortveit.no
Translated in February, 2023, by Katherine Larson, Affiliate Assistant Professor,
Department of Scandinavian Studies, University of Washington, Seattle
Anne Karin Jortveit is and artist and writer who lives in Ås, Norway. She works in Ås and Oslo, with a studio on Hovedøya. She works three-dimensionally with textiles and recent years has immersed herself in handspinning, weaving and plant dyeing. These pieces by Jortveit are on her website, only two of many compelling installations.

Anne Karin Jortveit. Sørgen’s Signatur (Sorrow’s Signature), 2022. Rug hooking on fabric with hand-spun wool thread (187 x 143 x 5 cm).

Jortveit wrote about Sorrow’s Signature: When I cleared out my father’s personal belongings, I found a paper with the words “Astrid Died January 15.” My father had become very forgetful. He no longer remembered details of the recent past, such as dates, so he had written down the death date of my mother, his wife.

​This little note was perhaps a kind of anchor. He himself died half a year later.

​This is not intended to be a private work. The name and date are interchangeable.
This simple, raw and bare sentence also contains a shared experience.
Regardless of time, place and circumstances.

Anne Karin Jortveit. 11,2 kilo (11.2. Kilos), 2004.

This weaving consists of clothes from my wardrobe, clothes I acquired but rarely used.
This weaving is a picture of one year’s discards.

In 1998, each and every one of us threw away 11.2 kilograms of textiles and clothing.
When I began this project, I had access to statistics from 1998; therefore this piece weighs 11.2 kilograms .

In 1998, discards were distributed as follows: 68% was sent to the dump; 16% was burned; 7% was reused or recycled, mostly to the Third World and Eastern Europe; 19% had never been used.

Traditionally, rag rugs were the final use of textiles. When clothes could longer be repaired, they ended up here, under our feet, the place where we leave traces of dust, dirt and sweat. This is a rag rug for today. I could wear all the clothes in this weaving and still be well dressed. None of the clothes came close to being called rags. I just got “tired of them.”

Afterword: ​This text was from 2005. In 2013, I checked the numbers again and read that each one of us threw away around 24 kilos of textiles a year. That would have become quite a weaving.

[Editor’s note: Textile discards are not improving. According to figures published by the Boston University School of Public Health, Americans discard more than 45 kilos (100 pounds) of textiles per year. The figure is based on the most recent year of EPA statistics available, 2018. See “The Aftermath of Fast Fashion: How Discarded Clothes Impact Public Health and the Environment.“]

March 2023

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

Nordic News and Notes: Lectures

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum Webinars

Exploring Sami Coastal Handcraft, with Hege Nilsen. Sunday, June 4, 2023. 1:00-2:00 pm CT. Cost: Free

Join folk artist and culture-bearer Hege Nilsen for a conversation exploring the traditional handcraft of the Coastal Sámi. From leatherwork, to pewter thread braiding and embroidery, to mica embellishments, you will learn about the folk art still made by this segment of Scandinavia’s indigenous people.

 

 

 

 

Natural Dyeing: Historical Handcraft as a Living Art, with Lesley Darling. Saturday, June 10, 2023.  1:00-2:00 pm CT. Cost: free 

Has the growing popularity of natural dyes made you curious about the process? Join textile artist and educator Lesley Darling for a webinar on the history of natural dyes across cultures, ideas to start saving your own dyes, and how you can learn more about the process. Lesley will also talk about how plant based dyes are making waves across the planet, from fashion labels and Nordic traditions to naturally dyeing dresses for an internationally celebrated drag artist.

The Mystery of the Missing Swans and Maidens: A Frida Hansen Tapestry Tale with Robbie LaFleur (Originally aired on April 2; now on the Vesterheim YouTube channel)

Back in 1903, Norwegian-born socialite and tapestry teacher Berthea Aske Bergh was determined to show Americans the brilliance of Norwegian billedvev, or tapestry. She traveled back to Norway and purchased Sørover (Southward), a tapestry of swans and maidens with shimmering threads from the famous Art Nouveau artist Frida Hansen.

Southward was an important, often-displayed monumental tapestry, so when the curators for the blockbuster show, Scandinavian Design in the United States, 1890-1980, sought key textiles, Frida Hansen’s tapestry was top of mind. But where was this 11 x 10 foot weaving now? Only a few grainy black-and-white photos and many glowing descriptions remained.

In January 2021, nearly 90 years after Southward was last displayed publicly, noted rug dealer Peter Pap opened a Tupperware container in a storage building in Maine. He unfolded a woven treasure in dusty, but pristine condition, and with a quick google search, he learned it was a long-lost Frida Hansen tapestry.

The veil of mystery, as well as the dust of decades, has been removed from Southward. The Frida Hansen masterpiece was restored to the world in time to add to the Scandinavian Designexhibit during its recent run at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and at the Milwaukee Museum of Art, showing March 24-July 23, 2023.

Join Robbie LaFleur for this timely webinar to celebrate the life and work of Frida Hansen and, especially, to hear about the Southward tapestry mystery as it unfolded.

Lecture on Swedish Folk Art in Duluth

“Tulips and Roses,” with Ulla-Karin Warberg. April 18, 2023, 6 pm at the University of Minnesota Duluth Solon Campus Center, Room 120 — AND — April 19, 2023, 1:30 pm at the Nordic Center, Duluth. (pdf poster here)

“Tulips and Roses,” by Ulla-Karin Warberg, is an exposé about Swedish Folk Art and its pattern traditions. She will use the folk art patterns as a starting point to show how they were adapted and used in different parts of Sweden. Learn how vernacular art was influenced by economics and geography. Observe older paintings and watercolors from the permanent collection of Stockholm’s Nordiska Museet. See works that show farmsteads, painted furniture, textiles, betrothal gifts, paintings and minor handicrafts.

Ulla-Karin Warberg is a curator at the Nordiska Museet in Stockholm and a lecturer at Uppsala University in Sweden. She has curated numerous exhibitions and has a distinguished publication record. She has also presented gallery lectures to UMD students as part of the Nordic Art and Design Study Abroad program.

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

 

Mendable: An Exhibit and Environmental Investigation

Norske Kunsthåndverkere (The Norwegian Association for Arts and Crafts, referred to as NK) is a membership organization working to promote and support Norwegian contemporary craft artists nationally and internationally.

NK has a current membership of more than 1000 professional artists and makers in a range of media from all of Norway. The group arranges an annual exhibit, the Arsutstillingen;  sponsors thematic exhibits around Norway; publishes a magazine, Kunsthåndverk; administers art grants; and works to influence art policies.

NK runs two galleries – Format  in Oslo and KRAFT  in Bergen. Another arm is Norwegian Crafts, a non-profit organization funded by the Norwegian Ministry of Culture and Equality and the Norwegian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA) that aims to strengthen the international position of contemporary crafts from Norway.

NK arranges thematic exhibits in various areas of Norway, and the themes are chosen by one of the seven regions that are part of the association. In 2020 the Norske Kunsthåndverkere regional group in Viken worked with NK on the juried exhibit “MENDABLE—Climate and Environment in Today’s Art Practice.” The jury and project group included Margrethe Loe Elde, Barbro Hernes, Svein Ove Kirkhorn and the project leader Ann Kristin Aas. 16 artists were chosen for the exhibit at the House of Foundation in Moss, August 29-October 11, 2020.

[Editors note: NK includes artists working in a variety of media. For the Norwegian Textile Letter, we focus on the artists working in fiber-related materials. You can see the full list of artists here. You can watch a Facebook video of many of the artists here. The following general description and the entries about the fiber artists are taken from the NK website.]

The Mendable Exhibit, 2020

We posed the question of how artists take a position on climate and environmental questions in today’s material-based art. We wanted to know about how the choice of materials, technique, content and expression in art were affected by thoughts of, or consideration of the environment. In the exhibition MENDABLE, we wanted to investigate how environmental activism is present in fine craft, and how the artists reflect on creating works of art in a world that is already full of things.

The title MENDABLE indicates something that can be repaired, both in a physical sense, but also as repair of a relationship or improvement of a situation. The artists in the exhibit seek relevant ways to express their unease with the climate situation through their work. They seek to help us find deeper understanding and insight through varying forms of expression and artistic methods. In this lies a hope that something can be done about the situation, that it is possible to repair something destroyed, and that it is possible to change and improve our way of living in the world. 

The artists pose questions around overproduction, overconsumption, and the exploitation of natural resources. What are the consequences for nature, and for us? Several of the artists use a working process that is close to nature to explore these questions. Many gather the raw materials themselves, like clay, wood, resin, and plants, directly from nature. Recycling and manual work are strong aspects of the artists’ works. Reworking found materials, building step by step, sewing stitch by stitch, repairing, unraveling, whittling, and weaving create room for reflection and new realizations—a method to find a deeper understanding of nature and the world around us. 

Eline Medbøe   |  I FIND SHELTER IN OUR REMAINS

It is strange that something that is so woven into our daily lives and our personalities is something that, at the same time, we respect so little. We throw away enormous amounts of completely usable clothing every year. Clothes are consumer products where the prices are out of line with the human and environmental resources used to produce them. By using recycled materials like cast-off clothing in my work I try to comment on us and the times in which we live. I sew my works with repetitive hand stitches  and I am concerned with the actions I take while I transform the textiles. There is something ruthless and brutal in sewing into a skirt, a pretty piece of clothing that someone has worn next to their skin. I hope the viewers of my work will become more conscious of their own relationship to clothing, and the value of the materials we toss away so easily. 

Eline Medbøe, ” I Find Shelter in our Remains.” Source: NK website: https://norskekunsthandverkere.no/users/eline-medboe. See the site for additional photos.

www.elinem.no
Instagram: @elinemed
Video: “Interview with Elina Medbøe

Kristina D. Aas  |   UNWEAVING

With my “Unweaving” project, I reflect on the production of art at a time we are swimming in products. We don’t understand how things are made, what they are made of, who makes them, nor where the makers are. When these layers of knowledge are erased, one begins to ask questions about the meaning of making art or crafts. I am trying to answer the question for myself, and in dialog with the public by the dismantling of work I have used several months to create. 

Photo: Karina Nøkleby Presttun

Source: Kristina Austi website: https://austikristina.com/upcoming-exhibitions/2020/8/29/mendable

https://austikristina.com [Editor’s note: The artist’s name is now Kristina Austi.]
Instagram: @austikristina

Karina Presttun Nøkleby   |   RUBIN

I began to investigate wood shavings as a possible method to stiffen textiles because a friend who creates frames of recycled materials had a sack of shavings. Great, I thought. Free, locally produced and environmentally friendly. Unsurprisingly, it didn’t work out as I intended, but worked out as something completely different. I think this happens continuously; in attempting to do something “a little more climate-friendly,” possibilities pop up, disguised as restrictions.

Rubin

“Rubin,” by Karina Presttun Nøkleby. Photo: Eivind Senneset. More photos are on the artist’s website: http://www.karinapresttun.no/portfolio_page/rubin-2019/

http://www.karinapresttun.no/contact/

Kristin Sæterdal   |   SPACE DEBRIS

“Space junk is waste and discarded or lost objects from human activity in space. Most are in orbit around the Earth in or close to the original orbit they were put in.” Wikipedia. The European Space Agency ESA monitors 20,000 objects that, among other things, monitor global warming and other environmental issues. The agency sends out alerts to satellites so they can be maneuvered manually to avoid collisions. In the event of a collision, even a small nut can cause major damage.

“Space Debris” by Kristin Sæterdal. Source: Mendable exhibition catalog.

kristinsæterdal.com
Instagram: @tinsapus
Video on the weaving of Space Debris

These are only a few of the talented artists working in textiles that are part of Norske Kunsthåndverkere. From this page listing all the artists, you can choose among materials used, including tekstil. There are other catalogs to download from thematic exhibits and the annual exhibition, Årsutstillingen, on the NK website page, “Fagstoff.” Many are in English.

March 2023