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Walborg Nickelsen: A Designer Influenced by Frida Hansen

Frida Hansen (1855-1931) was a ground-breaking Norwegian artist at the beginning of the 20th century. Her work was tied to the National Romantic period in Norway, and influenced by the international Art Nouveau Movement.  She reinvigorated Norwegian billedvev, [tapestry weaving] from the Renaissance era, investigated natural dyes used in historical weavings, ran a school for tapestry weaving, directed one of the largest tapestry studios in Europe at the turn of the 20th century, and gained international fame for her large tapestries in Art Nouveau style. She also developed a patented technique for weaving “transparent” tapestries with wool warp and weft. Portions of the weavings, usually hung as portieres or curtains, were left unwoven, giving a see-through effect and an emphasis on positive and negative spaces in the images. Hansen’s transparent tapestries drew rave reviews at the Paris Exposition in 1900, and were purchased throughout Europe.

Frida Hansen, JUNI [JUNE], 1918. Now on view at KODE Museum in Bergen, Norway

Frida Hansen inspired a production of transparent tapestries in her signature technique that stretched for decades, and even inspires contemporary artists. She released her patent in 1906, and some of the first pattern designers were weavers from her studio, Den Norske Billedvæveri [The Norwegian Tapestry Studio]. Hansen’s open warp technique became part of the curriculum in early 20th century Norwegian weaving schools, so it was widely practiced.

Below are two details from the JUNI transparent tapestry.

The transparent tapestries designed by Frida Hansen are well-documented, due to her diligent record-keeping and the incredible sleuthing of her biographer, Anniken Thue.  But the names of creators (and weavers) of many patterns designed by her followers remain a mystery. I would like to solve some of these mysteries, and in doing so, demonstrate the enduring influence of Frida Hansen and her innovative technique on decades of weavers. I recently had the chance to do just that on a visit to Norsk Folkemuseum.  When exploring in the museum archives I came across boxes of patterns from Husfliden [the National Handcraft Association] dating to the early 1900s, and I made a few discoveries. A young woman named Walborg Nickelsen, who briefly worked for Husfliden, designed at least two patterns for transparent tapestry. This article highlights one of these, and tells the brief tale of her life, as far as I could piece it together.

Norsk Folkemuseum Curator Bjørn Sverre Hol Haugen unfolds a full-sized 1927 pattern for a portiere designed by Walborg Nickelsen. Most patterns in the archives were small sketches, not full-sized.

I have not seen a woven version of the full-sized pattern, with the wonderful deer. The second pattern, from a smaller sketch, must have been woven frequently. I recognized it from the collections of three museums, none of which listed the designer.

The second Walborg Nickelsen pattern. There are admonitions printed on the pattern that the yarn samples must not be clipped off and to please handle the pattern carefully

The color choices made by the weavers give each version an entirely different feel. This copy from Maihaugen is in lighter and softer colors than the suggested yarn colors that were attached to the Husfliden pattern.

A tree of life transparent tapestry design by one of Frida Hansen's followers has turned up in multiple versions around Norway
The museum record is here: https://digitaltmuseum.no/0210211617142/portiere. I think the pattern clearly includes a tree image, so it is surprising when it is hung upside down. The weaver’s name is unknown, and it is also displayed upside down.

Here is a version at the Sverresborg Trøndelag Museum.

The colors chosen are similar to those in the pattern, except the weaver used white wool for the background, giving a more open feel to the image. Museum record: https://digitaltmuseum.no/021028326715/akle

A version of the pattern is even found in an American museum, Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum in Decorah, Iowa. It was woven by a Norwegian-American weaver from Portland, Oregon, Ruthi Klever Lunde Clark (1900 or 1903-1981). Clark’s pink and green version was woven in tow linen rather than wool. (You can read more about Clark’s version and other American tapestries that were woven in Frida Hansen’s technique in this article, “Frida Hansen – Transatlantic Ties.”)

Nickelsen pattern woven by Ruthi Clark, found in the collection of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

Since the first draft of this article was written, yet another set of portieres in Nickelsen’s tree pattern turned up on the Norwegian Blomqvist auction site. They were originally listed “Unknown Designer,” but I was able to give them updated information.

Walborg Nickelsen-designed portieres for sale by Blomqvist. Full record: https://www.blomqvist.no/auksjoner/moderne-design/moderne-mobler/nickelsen-walborg/740186

The auction house was not able to provide any provenance. I have no verification, but since this version is woven in exactly the colors specified by threads attached to the pattern in the Husfliden archives at the Norsk Folkemuseum, I have a hunch they may be the original set woven by the designer. Will more clues turn up?

Who was Walborg Nickelsen, the designer?

Walborg Weil Nickelsen (1907-1980) was born in Narvik, in the far north of Norway, in 1907, during the time her father, Wilhelm Nickelsen (1874-1953), served as the city engineer. They moved to Oslo in 1910, and Wilhelm spent most of his career as an engineer in the construction division of Asker municipality. According to newspapers of the day, he was a frequent speaker on the radio, often during a program with the tagline, “Small Visits with Big Men.” (One example was in Buskerud og Vestfold, April 11, 1931.) Walborg’s mother, Ragnhild Agnes Marie Nickelsen (born Ruud), cared for the home and lived to 103.

Walborg became a well-trained weaving instructor. She studied weaving at the Kvinnelig Industriskole [National Women’s Arts and Design School] for four years (best guess, around 1923-26), and then worked for Husfliden [the National Handcraft Association] for two years (1927-28?).  

Walborg Nickelsen in a Hallingdal costume, 1926. From the Norsk Folkemuseum. Photo: Anders Beer Wise. Full record.

After her stint at Husfliden, Walborg worked as the assistant to Tora Qviller, a well-known Art Deco-influenced designer and weaver in the 1930s. An article in Dagbladet (12/12/1931) described Qviller’s work on two large commissions, for the director’s office of the Oslo Electric Company and 75 rooms at the Continental Hotel. In the General Director’s Office, Qviller proposed designs for upholstery, curtains, and rugs. “Tora Qviller and her young assistant, Valborg Nickelsen, received only a week and a half to create all the samples.” 

In 1932 Walborg Nickelsen moved on to teach weaving for a new private weaving school started by Ingebjørg Hvoslef at the Tanberg estate in Ringerike. The ad for the school listed Nickelsen as the instructor. The three-month course had a very ambitious scope – both for learning and teaching! Students would study overshot weaving, linen damask, clothing fabric, home-spun, tapestry, pile weaving, transparent weaving, coverlet weaves, weaving theory, lace-making, pattern design, natural dyeing and spinning of linen and wool. 

Aftenposten, July 21, 1932

As far as I could determine, Walborg Nickelsen ended her career as a weaver, teacher and designer after teaching the course in the fall of 1932. Her name was not listed in the advertisements for the Tanberg Weaving School in the years after that. Also, according to newspaper notices in the summer and fall of 1932, Walborg became engaged to Ellef Bennichmann Petersen. She married in 1935, and had one son, Bjørn. She died in 1980. It seems a shame that she didn’t continue her life as a weaver and designer. If anyone knows more about her life, I’d love to know.

Frida Hansen’s influence

What if Frida Hansen had chosen to lead a life of conventional expectations, to work exclusively in her home? She began her career in textiles by opening an embroidery shop out of necessity, when her husband went bankrupt in an economic depression. After his finances improved, he encouraged her to give up outside work, but she refused. She had too much to accomplish, too many tapestries to create.

Walborg Nickelsen’s tree design is just one small indication of the decades of influence Frida Hansen had on weavers and designers in Norway. Nickelsen learned the technique in weaving school, created patterns for the technique as a young designer, and taught the technique as a weaving instructor.

Bibliography

Thue, Anniken. Frida Hansen: Europeeren i Norsk Vevkunst. Oslo : Universitetsforlaget, 1986.
“Wilhelm Nickelsen,” Lokalhistoriewiki.no [accessed 10/8/2024]

Read more about Frida Hansen: “Frida Hansen: A Brief Biography.” Norwegian Textile Letter, April 2022.

Robbie LaFleur is a weaver and writer from Minneapolis, Minnesota. She has been following a thread of Scandinavian textiles since she studied weaving at Valdres Husflidskole in Fagernes, Norway, in 1977. She is a Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum Gold Medalist in weaving, coordinates the Weavers Guild of Minnesota Scandinavian Weavers Study Group, and publishes the Norwegian Textile Letter. In 2019 she received a fellowship from the American Scandinavian Foundation to study the transparency technique of famed Norwegian tapestry weaver Frida Hansen. Contact: lafleur1801@me.com. Blog: robbielafleur.com. Instagram: robbie_lafleur

A Red Lion and Castle Flamskväv from Skåne

By Kristina L. Bielenberg

The historic textiles of southern Sweden are especially appealing, given their bright colors and detailed designs. My great-grandmother came from western Skåne, so I am particularly fond of the geometric röllakan and curvilinear tapestry weaves from this region of Scandinavia. The older textiles, from the 18th and first half of the 19th centuries, have become harder to find at reasonable prices in recent years. Therefore, as a weaver and collector, I am happy when I can purchase even a tattered textile that reveals technical features of its construction while retaining much visual charm.

In anticipation of my birthday, I splurged and bought a well-worn top of a square cushion cover [dyna, jynne or kudde] woven in dovetail tapestry technique – flamskväv. According to several authorities, its central design, a red lion and a castle in a roundel of foliage and flowers, was one of the most popular during the period 1780-1800. Most of the red lion and castle tapestries are attributed to the Bara District just east of Malmö, with some 70 examples having been inventoried from southwest Skåne, including single and double agedyna [seat covers]. Interestingly, many of these surviving textiles are almost identical in composition and color, suggesting that their weavers relied on the same prints or cartoons for their design or closely copied the work of other weavers.

All photos: Kristina Bielenberg

The cushion top that I acquired is approximately 19 inches high by 20 inches wide. It has an indigo blue background inside the roundel, which contrasts nicely with the red lion, and also a dark brown field behind the surrounding frame of flowers. Some of these flowers are recognizeable – tulips, roses, and a lily – but other blooms and figures defy identification. Like most flamskväv pieces, the design was woven perpendicular to the warp on a vertical tapestry loom. (See detail photos here and at the end of the article.)

The warp is a fine two-plied linen warp (Z2S) with a sett of 12 ends per inch.  The weft is spun of fine worsted wool, two-plied (Z2S) and, though the density varies somewhat, there are approximately 40 weft passes per inch, creating a firm but flexible fabric. The front of the textile is somewhat faded, but the vegetable-dyed weft yarns retain their distinct colors and lustrous beauty.

Why the red lion and castle? That remains a bit of a mystery. Some scholars say that the red lion was derived from the Biblical story of Samson’s battle with the lion; others describe it as a symbol of nobility and valor. One has said that the red lion was a heraldic symbol for the village of Bara. No one knows for sure.  King Frederick I of Sweden acquired a live lion in 1731, so I imagine that this might have been a source of inspiration.

My cushion top’s design, or one very similar to it, was copied by 20th century weavers and woven using commercially-dyed, woolen-spun yarns. One from about 1900 recently sold at Stockholm Auktionsverk and, though nicely executed, it is coarser in appearance and the pattern is reversed and simplified. See: Flamskväv Skåne  The patterns for such 20th century reproductions were often produced by handicraft associations and can still be purchased on-line from Skåne AB’s webstore. See the akedyna design kit with materials at: https://butiken.hemslojdeniskane.se/produkt/lejon-i-krans/

As noted at the beginning of this article, my red lion and castle cushion top is tattered. Sections of weft are missing and there are tears along the selvedge. The seller had mounted the piece on dark cardboard with a cardboard and fabric frame to hold the piece in place. My plan is to remount this textile using acid-free board, supporting fabric, and museum conservation clear glass to protect the weaving from ultraviolet light. This should extend the life of this historic treasure for future generations to admire and study.

Sources:

Viveka Hansen. Swedish Textile Art: Traditional Marriage Weaving from Scania. The Khalili Collection of Textile Art: Vol. 1. The Nour Foundation : London, 1996.

Willborg, Peter. Flatweaves from Fjord and Forest: Scandinavian Tapestries of the 18th and 19th Centuries. David Black Oriental Carpets : London, 1984.

Also, DigitalMuseum.se, “flamskväv” For example: Vävnad

Kristina L. Bielenberg is a retired attorney living in Vermont. She learned to spin at the age of 9 and weave as a teenager. Her current dream project is to weave a Norwegian-style åkle on an oppstadgogn using her own handspun yarn.
Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk!

A Bit about the Transparent Portieres of Frida Hansen

By Astrid Bugge (1902-1988)

Editor’s note: This article was originally published in “By og Bygd” (Yearbook of the Norsk Folkemuseum), 1962, pp. 133-138. Today many of the tapestries described in the article are in the digital collections of museums and available for us to enjoy in color.

When the Norsk Folkemuseum acquired a pair of portieres1 in transparent weaving technique in 1962, it was the fourth time this special type of weaving turned up in the museum’s collection. 

The first time was in 1954 when a set of two curtains and a single piece came from Louis Nicolay With’s villa, Haugen, at Hoff in Skøyen. Haugen is a typical Swiss-style villa with an interior of painted timber walls. A photograph from 1908 shows how the portieres hang in a broad  doorway so that the woven pattern appeared clearly against the transparent ground threads, as was intended. Now the same portieres are displayed in the dragon-style room in the city collection. The materials are all wool in many strong colors. The design: roosters, large flowers and twining leaves – all strongly stylized – are woven in with regular tapestry, but the ground consists only of uncovered warp, in this case two-ply dark blue yarn, doubled and tightly twisted, and “see-through” as the technique intends. The warp ends in long fringes at the bottom and the top. In the tightly-woven border at the bottom “DNB 1901 LXXXIII” is woven in, meaning “The Norwegian Tapestry Studio, production number 83, 1901.” The Norwegian Tapestry Studio was a company founded by Mrs. Randi Blehr with Frida Hansen as its director to undertake a revival of historical coverlet and tapestry weaving on a modern basis. It was active from 1897-1904. 

Villa Haugen

Villa Haugen. Photo: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011013387071/haugen

Frida Hansen, née Petersen, was born in 1855 at Hillevåg near Stavanger. She intended to become a painter and had studied drawing at home and abroad, but in the middle of the 1880s she became interested in our historical weaving. At the first Almindelig Norske Husflidsudstilling [Universal Norwegian Handcraft Exhibition] at Tivoli in Kristiania [now Oslo] in 1890 she displayed her first tapestry, Birkebeinerne, after a lithograph by Knud Bergslien. The exhibition catalog noted that “all the yarn for the tapestry was dyed and handspun by the artist.” Some time after the exhibit Frida Hansen moved to Oslo, and in 1892 opened her studio, with instruction in weaving for students from the city and countryside. This studio became the Norwegian Tapestry Studio in 1897, with large, light-filled rooms in the merchant Simonsen’s building at Stortorvet. The tapestries were woven on large vertical looms, one of Mrs. Hansen’s improved models. 

In 1894 Frida Hansen began a dye studio that worked with plant dyes and, after Miss Augusta Christensen’s method, dyed unspun wool that would be carded together afterwards. This allowed her to create yarn in a myriad of nuances and shades from 3-4 simple main colors. The jury at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 wrote that in this way Miss Christensen’s yarn attained color combinations that were more full of energy and fresher than by dyeing already-spun yarn. It was the theory of deconstructing colors in modern painting translated to yarn. 

portier in transparent technique

One of a pair of portieres. Warp: two-ply wool yarn doubled and tightly twisted, three threads per centimeter. Dark blue with some lighter blue. Weft: two-ply wool yarn, six ends per centimeter. Light blue, medium blue, bright red, dusky rosa, beige, light brown, orange. All yarn is handspun and plant-dyed. Height: 340 cm, width 111 centimeters. Fringes on both ends. Full record: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023185980/portiere-1-fag. Note: Throughout the article, reference numbers have been replaced with links to the museum records.

Each yarn is specially spun for its location in the weaving, just as every nuance is specially blended for the painter’s brush, the jury concluded. 

This is a form of expression that we don’t fully understand in our time. With few exceptions, and perhaps especially with Mrs. Hansen, tapestries from the Art Nouveau period worked with their imprecise colors. Yarn from carded-together wool gives a different appearance than the juxtaposition of pure color areas in painting. Frida Hansen, who drew for tapestries herself, was moreover clear over the need for good cartoons and in 1897 received a royal grant of 1000 kroner for a studio for pattern designing.  

The first time The Norwegian Tapestry Studio [DNB] appeared was at the husflidsutstillningen [handcraft exhitibion] in Bergen in 1898. Among the things the press noted and was excited about was a pair of “distinctive portieres with dense flowers and transparent base…the see-through curtains, one of Mrs. Hansen’s artistic inventions.” A hanging in transparent weave with flowers in white and orange marked NABV 1898 X, which in 1962 was purchased by Kulturen in Lund [a museum in Sweden] is the earliest known example. (http://carl.kulturen.com/web/object/60480) so far. At that time the studio signed pieces with the original name, Norske Aklæde og Billedvæveri [NABV; Norwegian Weaving and Tapestry Studio], and had only reached example #10. 

But it was at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 that Mrs. Hansen’s work caused a sensation. We quote the judges committee: “Our attention was immediately drawn to a whole group of transparent weavings in the form of portieres. The greatest honor is due to Mrs. Frida Hansen, who has created the compositions of these completely modern portieres. They reveal her deep knowledge of the possibilities of weaving, and that with nuanced areas in a limited number of strong yet well-balanced colors you can create the most enchanting decorative effects. These textiles in transparent tapestry are the only ones of that type in the exhibition and they are, we will declare in two words, truly new. These weavings are designed to work as portieres between adjoining rooms. They are woven in a way that allows a person in one room to see what is unfolding in another room. The weaving, which is created like other tapestry on an upright loom, is woven on the warp threads only in the areas that create the pattern. The warps are left bare in the areas that would have been a one-color background.

“As you will understand from this short explanation, this is tapestry in which you weave only the pattern and not the background, and it is through the free spaces between the warp threads that you can see what is happening on the other side. Therefor you need an especially meticulous composition for the work. Even though the jury regrets that such a technique requires a high sales price, we admire the skill with which they are made and spare no congratulations in connection with this new creation, of which several examples are laid out for us in a variety of lively colors.”

Then the jury switched over to discussing Frida Hansen’s tapestries from Gerhard Munthe’s cartoons. The DNB, Frida Hansen, and Gerhard Munthe all received gold medals. 

When Frida Hansen returned to Oslo she was interviewed by Urd [a magazine], and she described her gold medal and the orders that came from museums in Copenhagen, Basel, Brno [in former Czechoslovakia] and Kensington. “‘It was especially the curtains in transparency that were sold at the exhibition, and now I have a new idea regarding them — ceramic beads. I think they will be beautiful — here you can see, I’ve made them myself,’ and she brought out some small things, glimmering in strange metal colors. ‘Don’t they remind you of antiquities, as from an old Egyptian find? They will form the sepals in flowers.’”

No examples of transparencies with beads have been found to date. 

Frida Hansen had taken a patent out on her discovery. When the Norwegian Tapestry Studio was discontinued in 1904, she gave up her patent. There were several others who took up the technique. According to Einar Lexow, the most important weaver in the Gobelin and transparency technique, in addition to Frida Hansen, was Ulrikke Greve. Using her own designs, Greve wove the other hangings the Norske Folkemuseum received from the Haugen villa, commissioned between 1910-1914. These are a pair of portieres in front of one door and a single hanging in front of a door in the same room. They are more tame in their designs than Frida Hansen’s rooster portieres, they have almost rug-like patterns in subdued tones, the first in reds and greens on a rust-red warp (https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023185982/portiere); the other in green, lilac and beige tones on a deep red warp (https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023185981/portiere-1-fag). The yarn is hand-spun and carded together, from dyed wool. 

Ulrikke Greve. Portiere. Full record: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023185982/portiere

Ulrikke Greve. Portiere. Full record: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023185981/portiere-1-fag

At Norway’s Jubilee Exhibition at Frogner in 1914 there was a large showing of transparent weaving. Frida Hansen delivered two hangings, Hvite Fugler [White Birds], a long, narrow panel, and a large rectangular hanging, Sommernattsdrøm [Summer Night’s Dream]. The last had a completely tapestry image with trees, greenery and water, all quite stylized. They were both particularly noted by Carl W. Schnitler in the official exhibition document, who determined that it was the technique that gave Summer Night’s Dream its dream-like effect. 

Others who wove in the transparent technique around 1914 included the wife of Consul Robertson in Hammerfest (using a cartoon by Anette Schirmer); Ingeborg Arbo; Titti Karsten (sometimes with her own, and sometimes with her sister Marie’s designs); Ragna Nicolaisen; Agnes Røhr; and Aslaug Mohr in Bergen.  

Ingeborg Arbo: Nasjonamuseet/Andreas Harvik.

Ingeborg Arbo: Nasjonamuseet/Andreas Harvik. https://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/samlingen/objekt/OK-1991-0394

The Norsk Folkemuseum’s newest transparent curtains were also at the Jubilee Exhibition in 1914. They were woven by Miss Aagot Lund from her own design: large red rowanberry clusters and leaves in different shades of green and brown against a warp of medium blue, doubled, tightly twisted three-ply wool yarn. The wool yarn here was also dyed, carded together, and handspun. 

Aagot Lund. Photo: Anne-Lise Reinsfelt.

Aagot Lund. Photo: Anne-Lise Reinsfelt. https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023193360/portiere-1-fag

Transparent weaving was taught in the tapestry course at Statens kvinnelige industriskole [National Women’s Arts and Design School] up through the mid-1920s. Husfliden [the Handcraft Association] in Oslo wove the last example of weaving in transparent technique, Ygdrasil, after a 1939 drawing by W. Nickelsen. Then it ended — unless there is still a romantic person sitting and weaving a dream into an open warp in this uniquely neo-romantic weaving technique. 

Astrid Bugge (1902-1988) was a conservator and author of many articles in museum magazines and yearbooks, in addition to several books. She was appointed the Senior Conservator for the Norsk Folkemuseum in 1954. 
Translated in March 2023 by Robbie LaFleur and Katherine Larson

1A portiére is a curtain hung in a door opening, from the French word for door: porte. Wool transparent curtains or portieres were often sold as pairs, known as “et fag” in Norwegian.

Sources: 

“Selvhjælp,” Stavanger Husflidsforenings Tidskrift, I. February 1897, I. November 1898.

Husmoderen, 1898, p. 250.

Norges Deltagelse i Verdensutstillingen i Paris i 1900. K.V. Hammer, Kra. 1904, page 175. 

Urd, August 4, 1900, page 313. 

Marie Karsten, Billedvæv og Prydsøm. Kunst og Kultur, 1912, page 61.

Schnitler, Carl W. Norges Jubileumsutstilling 1914, Officiel Beretning, Kra. V. II, p. 432. 

Norske Kvinder, Kra. 1914, p. 421 ff. (Randi Blehr)

Einar Lexow: Moderne Decorativ Kunst i Norge. Kunst og Kultur 1919, p. 159. 

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk!

Kristina Austi: Dialogue between the Ancient and the Digital

By Kristina Austi

Background

Kristina Austi (former name Kristina Daukintytė Aas) was born in 1978 in Klaipėda, Lithuania, and now resides in Bergen, Norway. Austi’s multifaceted work spans digital jacquard weave, embroidery, installations, video, and collage. Her artistic inquiries challenge our perceptual understanding and the relationship we maintain with our surroundings, pushing the boundaries of textile art into new realms.

Kristina Austi

Kristina Austi

After graduating from the Bergen Academy of Art and Design in 2011, Austi’s journey in the textile arts has been marked by a profound engagement with digital Jacquard weaving since 2013. This technique, which marries traditional weaving methods with digital technology, has allowed her to explore the woven surface in innovative ways. Her work as a part-time textile designer at Innvik AS, a small weaving mill in Western Norway, further enriches her practice, blending industrial techniques with her artistic exploration.

For Austi, the allure of digital weaving lies in its ability to extend the ancient craft of weaving into the digital age, allowing for unprecedented creativity and precision. This fusion respects the past and embraces the future, reflecting Austi’s deep respect for textile tradition alongside her commitment to innovation.

Current exploration

In my latest endeavour, Hybrid, I venture into the realm where folklore, poetry, and advanced technology converge, creating a narrative fabric that weaves together the mystic charm of Lithuanian folktales with the profound verses of William Blake. This project is an artistic endeavour and a textual exploration that bridges centuries and disciplines. It represents a dialogue between the ancient and the digital, embodying a quest for a new aesthetic and conceptual vocabulary in textile art.

Kristina Austi. “And it grew both day and night. Till it bore an apple bright” Photo: Øystein Thorvaldsen

 

Central to Hybrid is the integration of artificial intelligence (AI) as more than just a tool—it is a collaborator in the creative process, pushing the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship and digital innovation. By feeding AI algorithms with images of my handcrafted weaves, I challenge them to reinterpret 16th-century tapestries. The outcomes are mesmerizing yet unsettling, blurring the lines between creator and creation and prompting a reevaluation of authenticity, originality, and the role of the machine in art.

The project further explores the potential of AI to generate novel patterns that draw inspiration from historical textiles while simultaneously questioning established notions of artistic genesis and authenticity. This inquiry extends into the domain of 3D printing, where digital weaving patterns are transformed into tangible models. These intricate structures, reminiscent of futuristic cityscapes or sophisticated microchips, serve not only as a testament to the versatility of weaving techniques but also as a metaphor for the intricate interplay between tradition and innovation.

Kristina Austi. “The Princess Tears”

The exhibition Hybrid encapsulates this duality, showcasing the collaboration between artisanal expertise and machine intelligence. It’s an invitation to perceive textile art as a tactile experience and a medium for conceptual exploration and technological experimentation. I aim to showcase the tangible outcomes of this artistic journey and initiate a conversation about the evolving landscape of art in the digital age.

Hybrid I marks the beginning of this larger project, with further developments and revelations anticipated in Part II, to be exhibited at KRAFT, Bergen, in April and May, 2024. One selected piece from this series will be displayed at the “Tendencies 24” exhibition at F15 in Moss from March to June. Later in 2024, I will show the project in Lithuania.

In 2023, I started my own company, VEVFT, together with three of my former students. This initiative is born out of a deep-seated desire to explore the boundaries of digital weaving myself and cultivate a thriving professional environment for this innovative craft in Norway.

Through VEVFT, I am dedicated to sharing the knowledge and insights I have garnered over years of experimenting and creating with digital looms. It is a platform for learning, collaboration, and experimentation designed to empower artists to harness the potential of digital weaving in their work. The establishment of this organization reflects my belief in the power of community and education in advancing the arts and crafts. It’s gratifying to witness the impact of these efforts, as a growing number of young artists are now embracing digital looms in Scandinavia. As digital weaving continues to evolve, so will the ways we think about, create, and interact with textiles.

March 2024

Editor’s note: The author sent a link to a review of her current show at the Soft gallery, with the pieces shown above, by Katia Maria Hassve for paragone.no. Because it is difficult to understand the impact of Austi’s tapestries with photos, it is fun to read Hassve’s reactions to seeing them in person. For example, “Turning to the right, I encounter another impressive tapestry with the text “Swim here, swim here, little boy, I will give you white shirt and red ribbon!” This piece immediately captures my attention. I begin to wonder: Is this a forest? Is the forest burning, or is something else happening? My gaze shifts to the stones in the water, and I ask myself if someone could drown there. Could someone drown in the tapestry itself? I notice that this seems more intricate, and I start to think that some form of data must have been used in the creation process. It’s almost like a woven snippet of a video game.”

See more of Austi’s work on her website, austikristina.com, and on Instagram: 
Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk!

Nordic Hands: 25 Fiber Craft Projects to Discover Scandinavian Culture (Book Review)

By Robbie LaFleur 

Nordic Hands: 25 Fiber Craft Projects to Discover Scandinavian Culture. By Anita Osterhaug. Schiffer Craft, 2023.

Nordic Hands begins with a 30-page geological, political and cultural history of the Nordic countries. Ambitious! The section sets the stage for a book that is both an interesting read and a compilation of practical and well-conceived projects. The text includes many photos of Nordic nature, buildings, and traditional fine craft.

The projects at the heart of the book are imaginative and beautifully designed by a variety of Nordic fiber experts. Some reflect the author’s deep weaving connections. The knitted “Nordic Summer and Winter Throw,” designed by the author, resembles a traditional Norwegian coverlet in krokbragd technique (only much softer and fuzzier). Knitted tea or coffee cozies by Sarah Shippen and a knitted market bag by Osterhaug have krokbragd patterns too. 

Coffee cozy designed by Sarah Shippen

Osterhaug pays homage to many Nordic traditional crafts, including woodcarving, metalwork and rosemaling, and they serve as inspiration for fiber projects. Birgit Albiker-Osterhaug transformed the designs of deep-relief acanthus into a beautiful lacy tablecloth. Laura Berlage used felting to reimagine Telemark scrolls found in rosemaling. 

Birgit Albiker-Osterhaug transformed the designs of deep-relief acanthus into a beautiful lacy tablecloth.

Osterhaug deftly incorporates history and culture from several Nordic countries, often comparing and contrasting. Here is part of the section describing a now-ubiquitous Nordic concept, because, as she posed, “Who hasn’t heard of hygge by now?”

While hygge is often translated as”cozy,” a more accurate translation would be a feeling of comfort of satisfaction…But Swedes use the word mys, and Norwegians say kos. Icelanders call it huggu, though the term is not as commonly used as in Denmark. The nearest Finnish equivalent (this from many reliable sources) is kalsarikänni, or “underpants drunk,” which Travel and Leisure magazine once described as “the thrilling act of enjoying a good class of wine in your skivvies.” To each his own, right? 

I couldn’t resist adding a quote with the phrase “underpants drunk.” The book is filled with funny stories and anecdotes. When writing about the history of band weaving Osterhaug included:

In her book Weaving Patterned Bands, Susan Foulkes relates how the Sami weave bands to trim clothing and small bags and about how they tie bands around their fur boots to keep the snow out. The band patterns and colors indicate a person’s village, family, marital status, and gender. 

Band weaving was also an important cottage industry. Foulkes relates a saying from Leksand, Sweden, that “one should weave 2 to 3 meters while boiling the potatoes.” I think either those band weavers were lightning fast or those were tough potatoes!

Woven bands owned by Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

The projects featured in Nordic Hands are not only tempting because they are cool, but because they are accessible to many fiber enthusiasts. The danskbrogd designs on the beautifully graphic pillows featured in the book are most often woven on a multi-shaft floor loom, but Osterhaug asked Jan Mostrom to write directions for weaving on a rigid heddle loom. Overall, there are projects for everyone from beginning fiber enthusiasts to deeply experienced handcrafters. 

Danskbrogd pillows designed by Jan Mostrom

The instructions for each project are thorough and clear, as befits an author who was formerly the editor of Handwoven magazine – and they include useful extras. Would you like a refresher on the right way to make a yarn butterfly for weaving? See page 142. I found the “Weaving and Other Tips” pull-out box in Osterhaug’s placemat project valuable for weaving with linen in general (p. 87). 

Nordic Hands should definitely be on the bookshelf of Scandinavian textile lovers, and it would be a great entry point for future Nordic fiber enthusiasts who haven’t been exposed to Scandinavian handcraft and culture.

Nordic Hands: 25 Fiber Craft Projects to Discover Scandinavian Culture by Anita Osterhaug is available through bookstores and at the Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum bookstore.

December 2023

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Tales of Magical Weavers Keep a Medieval Tapestry Tradition Alive

By Marianne Vedeler, Professor, Cultural History Museum, University of Oslo (UiO), and Lars Mytting, Author

This article was published in Forskersonen.no on November 23, 2022, and translated by Katherine Larson.

A battle is fought in a pictorial tapestry from Oseberg, 9th century. Drawing Stig Saxegaard.

A battle is fought in a pictorial tapestry from Oseberg, 9th century. Drawing Stig Saxegaard.

For over 300 years, stories about the Hekne sisters have been an important part of oral tradition, but no one has found tangible evidence that they actually existed.

In the beginning of the 18th century, a priest named Stockfleth wrote in the Dovre church records that two conjoined sisters from a place called Hekne gave the church a tapestry that they themselves had woven. He called them a monster. Since that time the legend has lived on in Gudbrandsdalen.

The story of the Hekne sisters is connected to a very special form of weaving. Through their textile pictures, local artists brought forth central stories from the Bible as well as chivalric ballads. This manner of telling stories had deep roots in the oral traditions of the Middle Ages. 

A Special Tapestry Tradition in Gudbrandsdal

A special form of tapestry weaving flourished in 17th century Gudbrandsdalen and certain other areas of southern Norway. These were tapestries woven in a technique that likely came from Flanders, but one that developed its own style in Gudbrandsdalen.

The characteristic manner in which figures and patterns were combined, as well as the use of color, make these textiles distinctive and easily recognizable. But it is not only the stories told by these pictorial textiles that make them a living and treasured expression of art.

In the past when stories were to be told in halls and dwelling places, pictorial textiles were well suited to evoke emotions. They showed highlights of the shared stories that everyone knew, and they also served as “memory cues” for the story teller. 

A line runs from the pictorial textiles of the Viking Age Oseberg grave through the Middle Ages and forth to the Renaissance textiles from Gudbrandsdalen. Medieval sagas suggest that pictorial tapestries had a very special role in the story-telling tradition.

In the Lay of Gudrun from the Poetic Edda, Gudrun weaves all of her sorrows into the bloody story of Sigurd the Dragonslayer. In the Orkneyinga Saga, there is a scene in which two skalds compete over who can create the best descriptive verse from the stories depicted in the hall’s tapestries. In this case the weaver and the skald go hand in hand.

Weavers with Unusual Capabilities

In stories from the Middle Ages, weavers are not simply visual story tellers. They often have magical capabilities that can change the course of history. They can see into the future, but also cause ill fortune and sickness, rob people of their wits and strength, open mountains and gravemounds, and even commit murder.

After the Reformation it seems that the connection between magic and tapestry weaving remained. Written records from the end of the 16th century indicate that at least two of the women burned as witches during that time were associated with tapestry weaving.  On the other hand, the Hekne sisters gave their fantastic tapestry to the church so that God would arrange their deaths to be at the same time. And God did in fact do this, writes Stockfleth. Even so there are several hints in the Hekne sisters’ legend that they had almost magical capabilities.

The Hekne Sisters Embodied a Warning

When the priest of Dovre church wrote down the story of the Hekne sisters, he devoted most of his narrative to describing the sisters’ unusual appearance. They each had a head, he says, but only one hand and one foot each. That he called them a monster [et monstrum] is a very important detail, since at that time the word had another meaning. It is derived from monere, which means to warn.

The birth of a malformed child was considered a warning from God, a message that should be meticulously interpreted and decoded. This was part of a common European notion. In early modern Europe, monstrous births found their way into everything from illustrative prints to books about miracles to medical works.  These were extreme creatures, lying at the intersection between human and animal, between man and woman, between one and several. This points back to a pre-Christian symbolism of natural omens that was now interpreted in a new early modern understanding of the world.

The Stories That Kept Each Other Alive

For over 300 years stories of the Hekne sisters were an important part of the oral tradition in Gudbrandsdalen, despite the fact – or perhaps precisely because of the fact – that no one had managed to find tangible evidence that they ever lived. It is striking that many officials of the 18th and 19th centuries, among them Gerhard Schøning, found space to describe the Hekne sisters in otherwise succinct accounts of the Dovre area.

The textile is described in several old records, locally called the Hekne weaving or Hekne decoration. It is not an exaggeration to call this Gudbrandsdalen’s most legendary weaving. It eventually disappeared from the church and became – especially following the travels of antique dealers in the 19th century – an object shrouded by myth.

The description of the subject varies, as does that of the textile’s fate. It may have been sold abroad, perhaps purchased and brought back, possibly switched, or falsified or kept in secret. The stories about the sisters would never have been so enduring if they were not tied to a weaving that had disappeared, just as fascination with the weaving would never have been so strong if it had been made by a person with an ordinary life story. 

What Was the Motif of the Hekne Tapestry?

The oldest sources give us no indication of the motif in the Hekne tapestry, but one of the most influential families of weavers in the area was convinced that it depicted the Biblical story of the Three Wise Men. Women in this family made two weavings with this motif, one in 1860 and another around 1931. This was long after the time when this special tapestry-weaving tradition flourished.

Tapestry from Gudbrandsdalen, 17th century, with the Three Wise Men motif. Photo: National Museum. Full record here.

The “new” tapestries are almost identical, and both are described by the weavers in family records as copies of the Hekne weaving, and with descriptions of the Hekne sisters. Thus the legend of the Hekne sisters lived on through new weavings.

Collective Wonder

The stories of the fantastic weavers from Hekne bring forth actors that otherwise are often silent or rarely seen in the sources. They give a glimpse of skilled craftswomen’s contribution to setting the stage for collective storytelling, and in that way incorporating a continental trend into a local tradition. In this context it makes little difference whether the incredible stories are “true.”

The legend of the Hekne sisters and the surviving tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen are sources of both wonder and new knowledge about the past. They are our common cultural heritage. What is more natural then to bring them forth in the light and look at them from several angles at the same time? Searching out the sources and discussing them with curiosity can provide an opening for both stories and research.

Marianne Vedeler holds a position as Professor in Archaeology at the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo. Her primary area of research is the Viking Age and late medieval periods in Scandinavia.
Translated in April, 2023, by Katherine Larson, Affiliate Assistant Professor,
Department of Scandinavian Studies, University of Washington, Seattle

Editor’s note: Lars Mytting wove the story of the Hekne sisters into his novel, The Bell in the Lake. Listen to a Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum bokprat [book talk] with the author and Dr. Maren Johnson, Luther College’s Associate Professor of Nordic Studies and Torgerson Center for Nordic Studies Director. View on YouTube

For a more detailed investigation of Norwegian historical tapestry, storytelling, and the legend of the Hekne sisters, see Marianne Vedeler’s article: Gudbrandsdalen Tapestries and the Story of the Hekne Sisters.

October 2023; originally published October, 2022

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk! 

 

Spinning and Weaving in Iceland

By Rebecca Mezoff

Editor’s Note: When Rebecca Mezoff, the well-known tapestry teacher and author of The Art of Tapestry Weaving, traveled to Iceland for a residency in 2022, I was envious. I followed her posts about sheep and tapestry weaving avidly. My favorite one was, “Myth and Fact: Yarn in the Grocery Store in Iceland.” Here is a taste of her experience. 

Black beach in Iceland. Photo: Rebecca Mezoff

Black beach in Iceland. Photo: Rebecca Mezoff

Icelandic sheep spend winters in the barn and summers in the Highlands. I can only imagine the long dark winters in the barn are quite the communal experience. And a summer unsupervised in the Highlands? That must be a romp in the long light-filled days, eating and wandering to their hearts content until fall calls them home. Then the farmers round up the ewes, sort them by farm, and bring them home to be shorn and spend another winter in the barn. That fall Icelandic fleece is what took me to the Icelandic Textile Center in Blonduos for a month of experimentation with spinning. That and a desire to experience the landscape of the north of Iceland.

Tapestry weft is most often wool and Icelandic sheep, being the hardy creatures they are, produce a long-staple dual-coated fleece that can be excellent for tapestry weaving. At the Textile Center I spent the month spinning and weaving this material in many different ways. I found it both frustrating and exhilarating as I struggled with hand spinning the dual coat, creating a variety of colors from the undyed fleeces I was working with, and observing the potential this wool had to produce luminous, though often hairy, yarns.

After spinning and spinning I wove some small tapestries inspired by the landscape using only Icelandic fiber. The horizons of Iceland called to me in the same way the open horizons of my home in the American Southwest do and those feelings found their way from the wandering sheep into the yarn I was making and then finally the tapestries. Maybe the Icelandic sheep and their long horizons will call me back to Iceland again before too long.

Rebecca Mezoff, March 2023
www.tapestryweaving.com
Read more about Rebecca’s Iceland adventure here.

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you! Tusen takk!  

 

Gudbrandsdalen Tapestries and the Story of the Hekne Sisters

By Marianne Vedeler, Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo (UiO)

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published as “Billedtepper fra Gudbrandsdalen og sagnet om Heknesøstrene” in Viking: Norsk Arkeologisk Aarbok [Viking: Norwegian Archaeological Yearbook], Vol. 86, No. 1, 2022, and is translated and reprinted with permission. A print-friendly pdf version is here.

Abstract: An intriguing combination of tapestry weave, legend and myth arose in Gudbrandsdalen in the 17th century. The legend about the conjoined twin master weavers is still living as a local story, and is now being conveyed to an international audience through novels written by Lars Mytting. The legend is tightly connected to a distinct form of tapestry weave, depicting biblical stories and narratives rooted in medieval poetry. The traditional interaction between visual and oral storytelling might be an important key to understanding the textiles. Visual stories told through tapestries have a long tradition in Norway, traceable from the 9th century tapestries from the Oseberg Viking ship grave on to the tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen. The legends about the extraordinary weavers that created tapestries in Gudbrandsdalen provide an extra dimension, linking the idea of conjoined twins as creatures of paradox with the pre-Christian tradition of natural signs that had to be de-coded.

In the 17th and 18th centuries a distinctive form of storytelling flourished in Gudbrandsdalen. In pictures conveyed through textiles, local artists brought to life stories from the Bible, but also from chivalric ballads from the Middle Ages. Along with these stories grew tales of fantastical weavers and their almost magical capabilities. One of these tales is the legend of the conjoined twins from Hekne in Dovre.

The weavers created visual stories that helped those in their local community understand themselves and the times in which they lived. But this form of textile storytelling and the artists who created them are part of a deeper storytelling tradition that stretches back to the Viking Age.

But is it appropriate to draw parallels between the tapestries of the Viking Age and those from Gudbrandsdalen? What was actually written down about the remarkable conjoined master weavers from Hekne in the 18th century? And how does the story of the Hekne sisters relate to the quite special tapestry tradition of Gudbrandsdalen? If one looks more closely at the connection between these questions, historical and archaeological sources provide a picture of a storytelling tradition with deep historical roots, where the blending of handcraft, legend and myth form an entirety.

The legend of the conjoined sisters

In the novels The Bell in the Lake and The Reindeer Hunters [Søsterklokkene and Hekneveven], author Lars Mytting brings forth the story of two conjoined master weavers from Dovre (Mytting 2018, 2020). The legend of the Hekne sisters has been known and loved in Gudbrandsdalen since the early 18th century and perhaps earlier. As with all good stories it has been passed along in the oral tradition for many generations, and over time has been changed and developed. But in addition to the oral tradition, there are also a number of early written accounts of the legend.

One of the sources for the two-sisters legend is Gerhard Schøning’s well-known travelogue from the 1770s. In the years 1773–1775, historian Schøning traveled over Dovre [Dovrefjell, a mountain range in central Norway] and down through Gudbrandsdalen, a journey that would later be remembered through the book Reise som giennem en Deel af Norge i de Aar 1773, 1774, 1775 paa Hans Majestets Kongens Bekostning er giort og beskreven [A journey through a part of Norway in the year 1773, 1774, 1775 at His Majesty’s Expense is undertaken and described]. It is here that we become acquainted with the extraordinary conjoined weavers, later known as the Hekne sisters.

This is how Schøning describes them:

In Dofre church there used to be an Aaklæde [coverlet], or a so called Huusbona [household textile], remarkable because it had been woven and presented to the church by two sisters, who were born conjoined such that they each had only one hand and one foot, but a 2nd neck and a 2nd head, which spoke for themselves as well as ate and drank for themselves. They created the aforementioned textile, and presented it to the aforementioned church, so that God should allow them to die at the same time. Their prayers were heard. They could go and accomplish whatever they wished. One’s name was Giertrud (Schøning 1980:30).

A decade later, in 1785, the priest and adventurer Hugo Friderich Hiorthøy repeats the same story in his Physisk og Ekonomisk Beskrivelse over Gulbrandsdalens Provstie [Physical and Economic Description of Gudbrandsdalen Parish]. But he adds an important piece of information: The parents of the twin sisters “were supposed to have lived above the Lie farm in a house close to Graaberge called Hechtner” (Hiorthøy 1990).

On the slope above the Lie farm in Dombås there is in fact a place named Gråberget. If one stands in the farmyard and looks upwards and to the right of Gråberg one sees a place that on the map is called Hekne. This matches almost exactly with Hiorthøy’s description, but these days that location is crossed daily by the Olso–Trondheim train, whose tracks travel right over the old farm site.

The legend says that the woven artistry of the Hekne sisters was so fantastic that by presenting one of their tapestries to the church, they were granted their last wish by God. According to Schøning’s description, they were allowed to die at the same time. How long had the legend existed as an oral tradition in his time? He himself says that it is an old story. Gerhard Schøning possibly got the story from a priest who had worked in the parish a generation and a half earlier. Niels Olesen Stockfleth was the priest in Lesja from 1724 to 1745. In the Lesja church record book he noted down a list of the church’s possessions, and a separate section is devoted to the Dovre church annex for the year 1732. That is where we find the oldest description of the story of the two weavers, in a version that combines information from both Schøning and Hiorthøy (Stockfleth 1732).1

A portion of Stockfeth’s description of the Hekne sisters, in the Kallsbok [parish register] for Dovre Annex, National Archive of Norway, Hamar, May 2022. Lesja priest archive OA.

Since the legend of the Hekne sisters was recorded by the priest Stockfleth in an inventory list, it must mean that he believed the story described real people who lived at some time during the 17th century. But at that time, no textile of any kind could have been given to the church that we know as Dovre church today. This church, with its characteristic slate slabs, first came into use in 1736 and was formally consecrated in 1740. All indications are that Stockfleth himself participated in its planning. But before that there was another church located a short distance away, between the farms Skjelstad and Bergseng. That church was probably built around the year 1400, but by the end of the 17th century it had become unsound and in constant need of repair. In Stockfleth’s time it was in danger of collapsing, and it was torn down when the new church came into use in 1736 (SAH Kirkestol for Lesja; Tallerås 1978:12-13).

At the little medieval church there was supposed to be a holy spring, and it was so well-known that it was mentioned by the parish priest in the church’s records. This is one of many so-called Olav springs, a healing source of water tied to St. Olav. The Pilgrims Route to Nidaros went past Bergseng (Werner 1998:37).

We will probably never know how much of the legend of the Hekne sisters is based on a true story. We do not know whether there were conjoined twins in Dovre at that time, or whether there could have been two sisters who wove masterworks together on a wide loom, or even what type of textiles these could have been. The earliest sources mention nothing about the appearance of the textile, other than that it was a coverlet, or a “husbunad,” which is a form of interior textile. But regardless, it is probably not coincidental that the story originates in the 17th century, and that the setting where the drama takes place is exactly northern Gudbrandsdalen. From the first part of the 17th century and for approximately one hundred years going forward, there developed a completely special form of tapestry in this area. It was especially in the 17th century that this reached its artistic highpoint, but evidence of the weaving tradition and the legends surrounding it have lived on right up to modern times.

Later the legend of the Hekne sisters was to have consequences not only for the reputation of the tapestry weavers in northern Gudbrandsdalen, but also for the economy of the surrounding communities living nearly 300 years later.

The tapestry art of Gudbrandsdalen

In the 17th century a distinctive manner of weaving tapestries flourished in Gudbrandsdalen and in certain other areas of eastern and western Norway. Many of the tapestries that had exceptional technical and artistic qualities came from the northern part of Gudbrandsdalen. It is likely that this was a core area for this type of tapestry weaving, and many of the really capable weavers who wove such tapestries seem to have been located there.

The Gudbrandsdalen tapestries were woven in the gobelin technique, which probably came to Norway from Flanders and surrounding areas at the end of the 16th century (Sjøvold 1976:24). In records and probate documents from this period, this weaving technique was called flamskvev [Flemish-weave], likely because of professional weavers who brought the technique with them from Flanders. It is also possible that the special Flemish loom came with them. This loom resembles the warp-weighted loom, but in contrast to the latter it has both a top and a bottom beam, and one weaves from the bottom upwards instead of the opposite. However, there is nothing preventing one from weaving tapestry in the gobelin technique on the old warp-weighted loom, as described by Marta Hoffmann in The Warp-Weighted Loom (Hoffmann 1964). Quite the opposite, it is probable that tapestries from both the Oseberg find, a grave from the 9th century, and the somewhat more recent Baldsishol tapestry were woven on such a loom. Oral tradition in Gudbrandsdalen also possibly indicates that some tapestries could have been woven on the traditional warp-weighted loom in more recent times (Bøe 1961:74-75).

Notched edges along a vertical slit. Detail from a version of The Three Wise Men tapestry, (full record)

When one weaves in the gobelin technique, the warp threads are completely covered by the weft threads, the latter of which are inserted in their own separate pattern areas. Different methods can be used to avoid the development of slits between the separate pattern areas. One can either interlock the wefts with each other between two warp threads (with a double or single interlock), or the wefts can be wrapped around a common warp threads without interlocking with each other (Sjøvold 1976:86). To avoid slits between pattern areas, the Gudbrandsdalen tapestry weavers instead utilized a distinctive notching technique. Where the pattern areas meet, the weft on each side is moved forth and back by one warp thread on either side of the division, and in this way the fabric is “closed” (Sjøvold 1976:86, Cyrus- Zetterström 1983). This creates small shifts in the color and pattern that look like small “notches.”

This distinctive notching technique for weaving together figures and patterns, combined with the use of color and pattern, gives these tapestries a characteristic appearance that is easily recognizable. But it is not only the pictorial stories told by the tapestries that have made them into vivid and treasured expressions of art. Over the years many of Norway’s larger museums have secured tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen as well as from certain other areas in eastern Norway.

There are somewhat different opinions on just when Flemish tapestry weaving became popular in Gudsbrandsdalen. Some have maintained that the oldest tapestries were made at the beginning of the 17th century (a woven date as old as 1613 is found in some, Kielland 1955), while others believe that we have no certain evidence for tapestry production of this type before the year 1700 (Sjøvold 1976:45). That last is not correct. Existing probate documents from Gudbrandsdalen indicate that the description “Flemish cloth,” with the meaning of Flemish-weave, was in use in this area at least as early as 1658, when such a textile was part of the estate for the large farm Tofte in Sør-Fron (Engelstad 1956:121). Unfortunately, there are no preserved probate records for the first half of the 17th century.

Many of the oldest tapestries have figures that are wearing old fashioned ruffs [pleated collars], the women wearing straight overhanging bodices above a parted skirt, with long moderate sleeves and shoulder accents. This was typical Renaissance dress that points to the first half of the 17th century. The figures in the oldest tapestries have individual expressions, living their own lives, and each of them are different. The foolish virgins cry openly, while the wise triumphantly hold high their shining lanterns. In the background can be seen towers, houses, columns and stone walls.

This Wise and Foolish Virgins tapestry owned by the Minneapolis Institute of Arts is thought to have been woven in the 1600s. You can see the city of Jerusalem depicted in the upper row, and the foolish virgins crying into their handkerchiefs. https://collections.artsmia.org/art/670/the-wise-and-foolish-virgins-norway.

By the 18th century the expressions stiffen and become more schematic, until the figures become almost simple rows of pattern, while the background is replaced with decorative geometric patterns. By the end of the 18th century the production of this sort of tapestry is more or less discontinued, even though occasional copies were still made.

Wise and Foolish Virgins tapestry from 1760, owned by the Norsk Folkemuseum. It shows the increasing stylization of the figures after the design became rooted in folk culture. https://digitaltmuseum.no/011023130439/teppe.

The stories presented in these tapestries revolve around a handful of themes. Most take their inspiration from well-known Bible stories: the Wise and Foolish Virgins, the story of the Three Wise Men, of Salome’s dance, King Solomon’s wisdom, the enumeration of Christ’s ancestors and the personification of the virtues, justice and patience (Justitia and Patentia).

The stories of the Virgins and the Three Wise Men were especially popular. Thor B. Kielland claimed to have registered a total of 75 tapestries with the 10 Virgins motif, although unfortunately he did not leave a list (Kielland 1955:68).

Even today the story of the Three Wise Men is one that many are familiar with from the Christmas Gospel, however the story of the Virgins is no longer as well known. In the Gospel of Matthew, Jesus compares the riches of heaven with ten virgins who wait for their bridegroom. They plan to awaken during the night with their oil lamps ready to meet the bridegroom when he comes. All ten take their lamps with them, but only half remember to take extra containers of oil to fill their lamps while they wait. As they wait for the bridegroom they eventually grow tired and fall asleep. In the middle of the night someone calls and wakes them: “The bridegroom is coming, get up and meet him.” They all wake and begin to set their lamps in order, but the virgins who have forgotten to bring extra oil cannot relight their lamps. They have to hurry off to get more oil from a merchant, and so are not there in time for the bridegroom’s arrival. When they do return the door is closed and their chance is lost (Matthew 25:1–13).

Not all of the tapestries portray stories from the Bible. Of those registered, one single tapestry depicts events from a completely separate storytelling tradition, a tradition that points directly to the chivalric ballads of the High Middle Ages. This tapestry is found in the collection of the National Museum (museum number OK 17388). It is woven in red, blue, green and gold, with white contour lines, and the handwork is of high quality. The motifs are placed in four panels, two above and two below. In each of the panels we see a large figure: In the upper left a large stag with remarkable antlers. To the right of this is a horse rearing with a rider on his back. He seems to be greeting the viewers. In the lower panels a sturdy fellow is waving to us from the left, while the right panel is occupied by a snow white deer that is standing on its hind legs. It is turned towards the man and seems to be shoving something narrow in his direction with its forelegs. These motifs are likely taken from the story of Guigemar (Kielland 1955), one of the medieval romantic tales of chivalry. This is one of the courtly tales that are part of the collection Strengleikar (Old Norse Ljóðabók), a translation of French lais into Old Norse that was ordered by Håkon Håkonsson in the mid 13th century for use at the Norwegian court (Budal 2009).

Guiamars sagn, Nasjonalmuseet. (full record).

One day, the greatest and most handsome knight in France went out for a hunt. This is Guigemar from Brittany. He is a charming heartbreaker, for he cares for none of the women who have offered him their heart. It seems that he is incapable of loving anyone. When he comes out into the forest, he sees a large stag, and just after that a snow white hind comes into view with a twig between its antlers. The knight Guigemar strings his bow and shoots the white hind. She falls, but immediately the arrow turns and comes whizzing back at him. It buries itself in his thigh and down he falls beside the hind. Then the hind turns to him and suddenly he understands what she is saying. There is a threat in her voice. You have done me harm, she says, and because you have wounded me, you shall endure a cruel fate. Soon you will meet a woman who you will truly love, but she will cause you greater pain and heartache than any woman has endured for your sake. And she shall also suffer on account of you. You and she shall suffer so much that everyone who has ever loved or shall ever come to love will wonder that you could bear such great sorrow. And never will your wound heal until you are finally with one another.

After that Guigemar did not know what to do with himself. He roamed far and wide, and at last he came to a beach where a strange ship lay. He went onboard and immediately fell asleep, after which things transpired as they were meant to. The ship entered an unfamiliar port where Guigemar met the beautiful young wife of the chieftain of that place. He fell hopelessly in love with her and she with him. After much sorrow and pain, and separation and loss, they are finally together and his wound can begin to heal (Rytter 1962:37-54).

The vivid figures, colors and lush floral background indicate that the Guigemar tapestry was made before 1700. The initials IOS, woven into the lower portion, could be either those of the weaver or of the owner. There are no firm details about where this tapestry was made. However, Kielland has argued that it was probably woven in northern Gudbrandsdalen in the decades approaching the 1650s. There are good reasons to be a bit careful with such a precise dating, but in any case, the artistic style points towards this being one of the early tapestries, and that it was woven in the 17th century. In the narrower bands that divide the figure panels one finds animal figures that bring to mind opposed lions. Both these and the form of the human figures are reminiscent of several other tapestries that come from northern Gudbrandsdalen (Kielland 1955:64).

Tapestries with motifs from, among others, the Feast of Herod, where Salome dances for the king and receives the head of John the Baptist on a platter, provide similar examples (museum numbers OK 01707, OK 17383, OK 08324, NF 1931-0347). In the first example, an especially well made tapestry from Bøverdal near Lom, we find similarities in the forms of the human figures as well as the same opposed lions as those in the Guigemar tapestry.

Tapestry with a Feast of Herod motif. Nasjonalmuseet. Between 1613 and 1750. Nasjonalmuseet. Full record.

What the tapestries were used for

Traditionally tapestries are closely associated with interior décor. In the Viking Age and the Middle Ages, narrow tapestries in a pictorial weaving technique were hung up on the walls for special occasions. These were often called revler [narrow decorative strips of cloth] (Engelstad 1952:18-19; Vedeler 2019, Vedeler and Pedersen 2020). Later in the Middle Ages and after the Reformation the tradition of hanging variously formatted tapestries for parties and celebrations continued, in churches as well as in private homes. Over time the long and narrow revle form was not as suitable, and tapestries developed into a more rectangular or square format. It has been suggested that this was connected with the introduction of the fireplace and chimney, which produces less smoke in the living area and therefore presented alternative opportunities for the shape of textile wall décor (Hauglid 1956). But the fireplace with chimney has been known in Norway since the Middle Ages, even if they were only in use amongst the rich. In many places of the country people have probably used fireplaces in log homes from the mid 16th century (Solhjell 2007:158-163). In any case, textiles in the tapestry technique have been used both for decoration and insulation on the walls, as cushion covers and as coverlets. There is no doubt that what was called Flemish-weave in the 18th century were textiles for interior décor, often with pictorial motifs.

A source that can indicate what the tapestries were used for is found in surviving probate records. An overview of these documents from northern Gudbrandsdalen for the years 1658 to 1682 reveals that 23 farms owned at least one Flemish-weave textile (Engelstad 1956:121).2 “Flemish (bed) cloth” is a descriptor that is found in probate documents. From this, one ascertains that these textiles were primarily intended for the bed. Many of the so-called Virgins tapestries, with motifs from the story of the Wise and Foolish Virgins, have probably served such a function. The story of the virgins waiting for their bridegroom works well as a bridal coverlet, but there were also many that were probably brought forth for use as a bed cover in connection with a wedding. However, a close study of probate records indicates that this was not the only purpose for which “Flemish” textiles were used. In a 1677 inheritance settlement for Thaasten Haldvorsen in Medalen in Eggedal, the distribution included “1 listings [border, molding] coverlet in the high seat in the living room” (Eker, Modum and Sigdal skifteprotokoll [probate record] no. 1, 1677; Engelstad 1956:121). It is a little unclear what usage was meant by the term listings. Was this a type of decorative interior textile that should lie in the high seat? Or did it mean that it should hang over it? In a similar case from Gudbrandsdalen in 1722 there is no doubt. There it says “1 Flemish cloth to set upon the wall in the high seat,” in the settlement of Joen Iversen in Søndre Langsett, Fåberg (Engelstad 1956:121). Here all indications are that this is a tapestry in the gobelin technique that should hang on the wall in the main room’s most prominent location.

A thoughtful discussion of tapestries and the sisters from Hekne

The method for weaving tapestries seems to have been a fashionable style that came to Norway from central Europe near the end of the 16th century. Fragments of pictorial weavings have been found from the beginning of the Viking Age in the Oseberg ship grave, made in a similar technique (free gobelin in combination with soumak), but the resulting expression is rather different. Perhaps pictorial textiles woven in the so-called Flemish-weave were first a fashionable phenomenon in towns, where this became a specialist handcraft in the 16th century (Sjøvold 1976:23). But the style developed during the first half of the 17th century into a distinctive expression in Gudbrandsdalen and surrounding areas, with an important center of activity in the north. In addition, the characteristic notching technique is an element that we do not find in the town-based tapestries. Even though the main technique may have come from the Continent by way of the towns, this manner of portraying collective stories has deep roots in Norway. Perhaps this is one of the reasons that Flemish-weave, which is so well suited to telling stories, got a secure foothold just there?

The distinctive Renaissance tapestries from Gudbrandsdalen were described and investigated by collectors and museum professionals as early as the 1920s and onwards. One of the questions that was particularly discussed was whether this type of textile was an imported phenomenon or whether it was an expression of a cohesive tradition that extended from the Middle Ages. In the 1950s, one of that time’s most prominent experts on historical textiles, Helen Engelstad, described these tapestries as a legacy from the Middle Ages (Engelstad 1956). But several leading voices in the museum world were not in agreement with her. They believed that the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries should be seen as pale and somewhat clumsy copies of the refined tapestries that were made in central areas of Europe in the 16th century, and that the inspiration without doubt had come to Gudbrandsdalen from the towns. Roar Hauglid, who at that time was the First Antiquarian [at Riksantikvaren, the Directorate for Cultural Heritage] and who aspired to become the National Antiquarian, wrote a rather tactless article in which Helen Engelstad’s theory received blunt criticism (Anker 1960; Hauglid 1956; Hoffmann 1958). The critics were correct in that the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries portrayed the same motifs and themes as Continental tapestries: well-known Bible stories, among others the Wise and Foolish Virgins, the story of the Three Wise Men, and Salome who received the head of John the Baptist on a platter. In this way the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries have clearly drawn inspiration from Continental areas. It is also correct that the special Flemish loom is technically distinct from the traditional warp-weighted loom. The discussion of the tapestries concerned primarily whether there was evidence of an unbroken textile tradition that used the same Medieval technique and patterns and extended to the 17th century’s tapestries (Hoffmann 1958).

This discussion, which happened mostly in the 1950s, should be seen in light of a nationalistic view of tapestry weaving. In the period from the end of the 19th century until around the Second World War, tapestry was seen as an especially Norwegian expression, both by the Lysakerkretsen [an artistic and cultural grouping in Lysaker west of Oslo] and Gerhard Munthe, and through Hannah Rygen’s associations with Norwegian roots in the tapestry weaving tradition (Larson 2011:245; Paasche 2018:21). At that time, the expressed intent was to tie Norwegian modern arts to what were seen as characteristically Norwegian traditions with deep roots. This idea was helped along by two sensational finds. In 1879 the Baldishol church was torn down, revealing a well preserved tapestry that proved to be from the early Middle Ages (1040–1190, Nockert and Possnert 2002:92). A few decades later, in 1904, a number of tapestry fragments were found in the grave mound at Oseberg. The grave itself was dated to the year 834, but the textiles could be somewhat older (Bonde and Christensen 1993:153-166; Vedeler 2019:117-123). However, after the Second World War, what were viewed as explanations based on nationalistic models were not as well received. The 1950s opposition is therefore neither surprising nor unique to tapestry weaving.

Nonetheless there are several things that make it worthwhile to take a closer look at Helen Engelstad’s original theory – and perhaps also to find parallels even further back in time than she envisioned. Her critics focused primarily on the tapestries’ technical and pictorial execution. But the idea behind such a special method of telling stories was not a part of the discussion.

Also belonging to this story is an exchange of views about the Hekne sisters. This was not a discussion about what the legend could contribute to the tapestry tradition, but a question about whether the Hekne sisters had existed or not. It was carried on in ‘back rooms,’ but it emerges by way of bits and pieces that have come to light in letters and brief references in the literature. The positivist, scientific ideal was strongly supported in the 1960s and 1970s in Norway, with an expressed purpose of producing objective, testable and values-free knowledge (Olsen 1997). The value of legends and recollected stories were not particularly well accepted. That which local communities experienced as a worthwhile part of the tapestries’ history was thus met with skepticism by those in the central museums. Pål Tallerås gives this somewhat laconic reporting of a letter exchange between Gudbrandsdalen residents and museum staff in Oslo in his book, Kyrkene i Dovre [The Churches in Dovre]:

…the Kunstindustrimuseet [Museum of Applied Art, now part of the National Museum] in Oslo says in a letter: “The story of the Siamese twins is a legend! Eilert Sund mentions it in his book Husfliden. It has nothing to do with reality.” Someone took exception to this and received this answer from Kunstindustrimuseet at NN: “Our position about the history of the Siamese Hekne sisters who wove such fine tapestries is that it is a legend, which is completely in agreement with the understanding of Professor Olav Bø, Institute for Folkeminnevitenskap [Folklore Studies] at the University of Oslo” (Tallerås 1978:42).

The response gives a clear impression of distance while defining the tradition of this legend as irrelevant to the tapestry tradition.

Collective textile narratives

Collective stories hold a community together. Telling such stories by way of textile pictures has a long tradition, both in Norway and in the rest of Europe. The best-known example is the Bayeux tapestry, which tells the story of William the Conqueror’s Conquest of England and the Battle of Hastings. The tapestry is made in the last half of the 11th century (Bertelsen 2018). In Norway we can detect this type of visual story telling in the hundreds of fragments of pictorial weavings that were found in the Oseberg grave from the 9th century. They tell stories of battles and processions, of witches and people assuming the skins of animals (Vedeler 2019). Small fragments of pictorial weaving that are found in other high status graves from the Viking Age show that these were not unique. Both a ship grave at Grønhaug on Karmøy, a grave at Jåtten in Hetland and a magnificent ship grave at Haugen on Rolvsøy include pictorial weavings (Bender Jørgensen and Moe 2020: 182–194; Hougen 2006:73–75). There is therefore good reason to suppose that this type of textile storytelling was an important part of the visual culture of the Viking Age. Perhaps we can draw this tradition even further back in time. Tablet woven bands with motifs of animals, birds and perhaps magical beings are preserved from the late Iron Age. Among other locations, examples of such are found at Evebø/Eide and Høgom (Magnus 1982; Raknes Pedersen 1982; Nockert 1991).

Tapestry evidence from the Middle Ages is rather sparse. But if we concentrate on visual story telling rather than looking at which techniques are used to make the textiles, things look a little different.

From Norway’s earliest Middle Ages a small fragment of double-cloth survived from Rennebu in Sør-Trøndelag. Although the fragment has since disappeared, it showed motifs that have clear parallels with the Oseberg tapestries (Vedeler 2019:99–101). From Baldishol in Hedmark there is, for all those interested in textiles, the famous tapestry dated to the period between 1040 and 1190. It shows scenes of people, animals and birds, and is likely an illustration of two months of the year (Engelstad 1952:58–63; Nockert and Possnert 2002:92).

Baldisholteppet. Nasjonalmuseet. (full record) Photo: Frode Larsen.

But there are also examples of embroidered tapestries that tell stories. One embroidered tapestry depicting a Biblical story comes from Høyland church and was made at the turn of the 13th century, while another comes from Tingelstad and is dated to the middle of the 16th century (Reinert 1988; Vedeler and Pedersen 2020).

A long line exists between the tapestries in the Oseberg grave of the 9th century and the tapestries in the gobelin technique from Gudbrandsdalen. However, the different techniques used to present these pictures, whether weaving or embroidery, when seen in this connection are of lesser importance. We also must not forget the lively narrative voices that come forth in several tapestries from Skog and Överhogdal in Härjedalen (1040–1170 A.D., Franzen and Nockert 1992; Oscarsson 2010:76; Possnert 2010). The pictures in these tapestries tie together the Old Norse mythology with stories from a developing Christianity. Until 1645 Härjedalen was a part of Norway, and there were strong connections both geographically and culturally between that area and the mountainous regions of central Norway.

Sources that were written down in the Middle Ages indicated that tapestries held a very special position within the storytelling tradition. Textile pictures are well suited to create emotions and provide visible details for telling well-known stories. It would be a long time before broad swaths of the populace could take advantage of a well-developed written culture. Oral and visual storytelling therefore served as an especially important tool to share and maintain collective memories. Nevertheless, this is a somewhat simplistic explanation that has been much debated (see for example Aavitsland 2004 for a thorough discussion). Generally, one can say that story telling is a foundational human strategy that makes it easier to accept the times in which one lives, and the society of which one is a part.

Several poems written down in the Middle Ages describe how textile pictures were used for just this purpose (Nordanskog 2006:217-221; Vedeler in press). One of these is Guðrúnarkviða in Den eldre Edda [The Poetic Edda], which relates how legends and stories were embroidered and woven into tapestries. After the death of Sigurd the Dragonslayer, Gudrun Gjukesdatter travels to Denmark to lick her wounds. There she weaves the fantastic story into tapestries. There are sturdy warriors with red shields, there are warships with golden heads on their prow, and the deeds of chieftains (Det gamle Gudrunkvadet:14–15).

A number of the Gudbrandsdalen tapestries have woven text appearing as a frieze between and around the figure panels. Often these are a combination of short explanatory texts that indicate what story is being portrayed. An example is found in a tapestry from Skjåk from the first half of the 17th century that portrays the Feast of Herod. Here the text reads: “S John when he was beheaded for the dance of a whore ano 13?” (Sjøvold 1976:48, National Museum number OK- 01707). Such minor explanatory texts can also occasionally be found in the older medieval tapestries. There is a good example in tapestry 1a from Överhogdal, where there is a small text, Guðby, written in runes, inserted under the figure of a house (Horneij 1991:138–140). Presumably these texts have been of lesser importance in the telling of the stories portrayed in the pictures. Copies of older tapestries, which have previously been called “replica tapestries,” offer an interesting commentary on exactly this point. Often the same story was repeated, and over time copied from one tapestry to another. When an older tapestry is laid in back of the new warp like a kind of “cartoon,” for technical reasons it is easy for the motifs on the older tapestry to appear reversed in the new. When the copy is done, the text is no longer readable in the usual way. This can be corrected during weaving if one can read and is clear therefore on the difference, but in a number of the copied tapestries the text is reversed. This could mean that the weaver either could not read, or perhaps did not care. Regardless of the reason, when seen in this light the text has less importance than the pictures. It is the pictures that tell the story, right up until they finally become indistinct decorative elements that no longer hold any meaning.

The weaver and the skald

Several major theorists have said that visual communication is closely linked with time, place and social belonging (Baxandall 1988; Bourdieu 2002; Gronow 1997). The storytelling tradition strengthens the solidarity of a place, whether large or small. In this regard it is also important to look more closely at who it is that actually participates in telling the stories, both of the tapestries and about the tapestries. The central elements of Old Norse mythology as they were written down in medieval literature probably had their origin in a tradition where oral and visual storytelling went hand in hand. They were part of a performance with more than one active participant, where the connection between the scene, the visual and the oral elements creates a whole (Vedeler, in press). Of course here the story portrayed in the tapestries would have a central role, but the storyteller was also an active participant.

From the start, Flemish-weave was likely a handcraft for the few, and never became something that “everyone” did (Sjøvold 1976:45). To a certain extent the weaver had the freedom to design the images, but at the same time they were bound by strict norms. In a number of cases old tapestries were regularly copied, with many examples of tapestries that are very similar. Aside from a few exceptions it is also the same stories that appear again and again. Nevertheless, there are some tapestries that stand out among the rest with their lively and imaginative execution or their distinctive motifs. Even if we do not know who the weavers were, it is reasonable to assume that the legends that grew up around them were tied to those who in one way or another stood out, either because of their skill, or because of their creativity, or also because of their otherness.

The tapestries are interior textiles with somewhat different usages. Some were used as coverlets for the bed, other as wall decorations. The tapestries that were meant to hang on the wall probably served as part of an oral storytelling tradition. From medieval literature we have stories of skalds [bards] who convey the tapestries’ stories for an invited audience in the king’s hall. In the saga about Olaf Haraldsson from the first half of the 13th century we hear about a tapestry with the story of Sigurd the Dragonslayer that was placed behind the king and his high seat in the hall. The king calls the bard to come to him and invites him to tell the story for those that sat in the hall: “Thorfinn the Skald sat on the bench in front of King Olav. Then the king said to him: Tell us, Skald, about that which is portrayed in this tapestry” (Johnsen 1922:58).

Medieval skaldic verse is primarily poetry, and therefore differs from prose narration in several ways. Skaldic verse has strict poetic meter, rhyme and not least a system for metaphor or set paraphrasing (Birgisson 2007:10). Nevertheless, the skald and the storyteller are similar in that they both operate within an oral landscape. Just as for stories told in prose, skaldic poetry has the goal of entertaining and making life meaningful and understandable (Birgisson 2007:66). But both in the medieval and the post-Reformation tradition, some skalds had darker motives. Verbal magic also included certain poetic forms, and this is reflected in the laws of Iceland from the 13th century. By the 17th century there was a term for the magic skald, skraptaskáld, or power skald (Hastrup 1987:332-333).

In less elite settings it is natural to suppose that it was the local storyteller whose task it was to tell the stories portrayed in the tapestries. The textiles were brought forth on special occasions and hung up as decorations in prominent places along the walls. This has been the tradition well into modern times in Norway (Hougen 2006:106–107; Vedeler in press). Storytelling tied to these tapestries has therefore been closely associated with celebrations and gatherings of many people. In such circumstances the colorful tapestries functioned in a dual role, as both decoration and as collective “memory cues.” The stories portrayed are not complete but give the plot a direction and bring forth central parts. Such is the case with the tapestry that portrays the legend of Guigemar, where we see the knight in the forest, the stag and the hind with the arrow. This is an indication of a combined oral and visual storytelling tradition for which we see traces from medieval sources. Despite the fact that the preserved version of Strengleikar was written down, these short stories were part of an oral tradition. The text explanations indicate that they were meant to be conveyed aloud, perhaps also accompanied by music (Budal 2009).

In the Orkneyinga Saga there is a scene where two skalds entertain a gathering with a competition to see which of them can make the best verse about the story shown in a tapestry in the hall. It is Christmas and there is a celebration, with tapestries hung up for the occasion. Then Earl Ragnvald challenges the skald Odd the Little, requesting that he make a verse about one of the warriors shown in the tapestry, and the Earl will do the same. (Orknøyingasoga 1929:85). The resulting competition in versifying is entertainment at its highest. The crux of the competition is that the poets must make their verses while thinking on their feet. But the two skalds have a ready source, a manuscript to take inspiration from, namely the tapestry on the wall.

The uncommon weavers: from Valkyries to witches and monsters

The weavers who made the tapestries have often disappeared behind the veil of history. Only occasionally do we hear of named artists. In such cases it is often a woman who in one way or another is distinguished by her difference.

The connection between the weaver’s art and uncommon capabilities can be traced back as far as the Viking Age. Magic is also strangeness. From the Middle Ages we find a number of stories from the sagas that identify unusual women’s capabilities to employ weaving and the use of magic to affect fate and change the course of history. One of the most well-known is found in Njål’s Saga. A man named Dørrud lived in Caithness, Scotland. It was Good Friday and he was out for a walk when suddenly he saw twelve figures come riding. They went into a house nearby, and he crept close to a small opening to see what they were up to. He saw that they were women, and that they were setting up a loom inside. But it was no ordinary warp-weighted loom. Instead of warp threads it had men’s intestines, and these threads were held taut by weights made of men’s heads. They used a war sword to beat in the weaving and an arrow in place of a weaving comb. Through gruesome songs about a battle they kept the rhythm in the bloody weaving. To his horror Dørrud discovers that this is a real battle they are singing about (Njåls saga 1951:261–264). Through this frightful weaving the fates of the warriors and the outcome of a battle far away are being shaped. These magical women are Valkyries, housewives and goddesses of fate all at the same time, and like Valkyries they have the power of life and death (Nordberg 2003:106; Friðriksdóttir 2020:6). In this story, the women who are weaving are not just passive storytellers, they are active participants who are affecting the course of history. What is expressed here is an understanding of the world as both practical and magical at the same time, without a division between what today we would call reality and mysticism.

In surviving tapestries from the Viking Age and the early Middle Ages one finds possible references to magic, or seid [sorcery]. With this type of magic one could see into the future, but one could also cause misfortune and disease, rob people of their wits and strength, open mountains and burial mounds and even commit murder (Price 2019:57). A woman with such powers is found in Torbjørg Veslevolva [volva = seeress], who is described in Eirik the Red’s Saga. She is equipped with a number of implements that help her perform sorcery. She holds a large staff in one hand, an object that itself can be a reference to spinning. When she conducts magic, she steps up on a platform, a seiðhjallr. There are several references to such platforms in the sagas, and it is quite clear that they are high, or raised high above the ground. When the sorceresses Heid and Hamglåma conduct magic in Fridtjof’s Saga, they both fall down and break their backs (Bugge 1901; Fosse 2013:38–39). It is worth noting here that medieval ideas about the magic of earlier times are drawn from an oral tradition and do not necessarily reflect factual practices (Friðriksdóttir 2013:57–58).

On one of the preserved tapestry fragments from Oseberg one sees a woman. She stands up on a flat platform, bound fast to a horse. She seems to turn her face upwards in the direction of a strange form that comes towards her. It is a giant woman, with a head that either forms a beak or horns. A likely interpretation of this scene is that it portrays a magical ritual (Vedeler 2019:53–55).

Woman standing on a platform, on the back of a red horse. Tapestry from Oseberg, Museum # C55000/377/13b2. Photo: Marianne Vedeler.

Another characteristic of the seeress is that she could see into the future. They could interpret signs and omens in nature and decode magical messages that might appear in, for example, the flight of birds. In the Voluspå [volva’s prophecy, from the Poetic Edda], a seeress foretells what will happen when the world as we know it ends. The End Times, or Ragnarok, is possibly portrayed in the tapestries from Överhogdal in Jämtland. There are scenes with animals, ships and human figures. A large animal opens its mouth wide, is this the wolf Fenrir that is in the process of destroying the world? And the ship that glides over a large tree with its branches spread outwards, is that the frightful Naglfar, a ship made from the fingernails of the dead, cast loose and setting its course towards the battlefield? But along with these ideas from a pre- Christian world we also find Christian symbols in this tapestry, and perhaps scenes from the Christian Apocalypse (Wikman 1996; Oscarsson 2010:32-37). In the Överhogdal tapestries, which are dated to 1040–1170, we find a unique combination of both a pre-Christian and a Christian world view.

After the Reformation it would seem that the connection between magic and tapestry still existed. Records of court documents from the end of the 16th century indicate that at least two of the women who were burned as witches at that time were associated with tapestry weaving. They were Johanne Jensdatter, Flemish weaver, and Anne Pedersdatter Beyer.

From legal documents we learn that witnesses who were considered trustworthy by the court testified that Johanne could make things fly through the air and make a storm come to life, and also scare cats on New Year’s Eve. But more serious still was that Johanne Jensdatter bewitched the pregnant wife of Mogens the Woodworker such that “she lost her purpose, and her body has become lifted and very thick and large as if she has been blown up, and she since then and still lies in great pain and agony” (Norske trolldomsprosesser, p. 634).

Johanne carried the name Jensdatter flamske, veverske [Jens-daughter Flemish, weaver]. This can be interpreted in two ways, either that Johanne came from Flanders, or that she wove Flemish-weave. I tend to believe the latter, but either way there is no doubt that she was connected with weaving. So was Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, the most well-known woman burned as a witch in Norway. She was a woman of the better classes, and legal documents reveal the story that connects Anne to the art of tapestry weaving. The origin of the witchcraft accusations against Anne were that she ordered a loom for weaving Flemish-weave from Giert snekker [carpenter]. She got into a dispute with his wife, who later became mysteriously ill. Anne was accused of casting a spell over Anna Snidkers and was later judged to burn alive (Gilje 2010:47).

Two unusual people with unusual talents are also at the center of the legend of the Hekne sisters. In descriptions of the Hekne sisters from early in the 18th century they are characterized as monsters with two heads and only one arm and one leg each. This is how the priest Stockfleth describes them in his inventory list for the Dovre church annex:

One long woven cloth: called Husboned: was a gift from the two sisters who were grown together and had only one hand and one foot each, but two necks and heads, each talked and ate and drank for themselves, these two sisters from one together made the husbona and gave it to the church, such that God should redeem them both from here at one time, which God did. This monster walked like a person and could make with their hands everything that they saw with their eyes and could make with their hands. Their parents lived above Lie, out in a house close to Graaberge called Hectne. One of them was called Gjertrud” (Stockfleth 1732).3

In early modern Europe, monstrous births found their way into everything from printed drawings to books about miracles to medical works. Strange creatures that were reported to have been born of human mothers ranged from monstrous fish to conjoined twins. These were extreme creatures, lying at the intersection between human and animal, between man and woman, between one and several. The word monstrum [monster] comes from monere, which means to warn. All these births had in common that they were seen as a sign or an omen that had to be decoded and interpreted (Bates 2020:119–120). When viewed like this, in many ways this is a direct continuation of the pre-Christian understanding of magical signs and omens in nature that we also recognize from medieval thought. An example is the warning about the king’s birth in Sverre’s Saga. Gunnhild, Sverre’s mother, has a remarkable dream. In the dream the midwife that is sitting with her cries out in fear:

“My Gunnhild! You have borne a strange fetus, awful to look at.” Three times she cried out the same words, and hearing the midwife cry the same with trembling voice, she wondered what kind of fetus it was that she had borne. She then thought it was a stone, rather large and snow white, and it glowed so brightly that it gave off sparks in all directions like glowing iron that is blown on in the forge (Koht 1995:12).

The understanding of the world as a universe of signs stretches back to Antiquity. But in the Early Modern period (ca. 1500–1700) it was important to document and systematize such happenings and group them with methods that made them understandable in a new way. This was also a time with a widespread belief that the End Times were near. People and nature were connected with invisible bonds, where each single element in a microcosm (the person) corresponds with an element in the wider world (macrocosm). With such an understanding, the birth of conjoined twins could be interpreted as a warning of Doomsday (Gilje and Rasmussen 2002:205–228).

A through line passes from the pre-Christian goddesses of fate and seeresses to the witches in the 17th century and thence to the Hekne sisters. They are different, they weave, and they have magic in their hands. Embodying a combination that is both frightening and inspires respect, they are interpreters of magic messages and they are creators of magic happenings.

The legend of the Hekne sisters lives on

The distinctive tapestry tradition in Gudbrandsdalen died out more or less at the end of the 18th century. Even so, the legend of the Hekne sisters persisted into the 19th century and has since remained alive. We see glimpses of it in the collection efforts of Eilert Sundt and later of Anders Sandvig (Sandvig 1907). But at least as interesting is seeing how the area’s own inhabitants continue to be inspired by the legend and the magic surrounding the Hekne sisters. A striking example is seen in memories noted down about a skilled weaver, Åse, who married into the Haugje farm in Dovre in 1812. When she relinquished supervision, there were said to hang a total of 12 tapestries in the great room at Haugje. Her name is especially tied to a tapestry that portrays the Three Wise Men, which now belongs to the Sandvig Collection at Maihaugen (museum number SS-14812). According to tradition, this tapestry took a very long time to complete. Åse was the one who completed it, and a cryptic sentence in the notes implies that this happened through inspiration or even with the help of the Hekne sisters. “Åse had the well- known Hekne-sisters to her home so she could see how they worked, but they were not there to do anything” (Doset, no date). What this actually means is unknown. The legend of the Hekne sisters originated over a hundred years before Åse’s time, so the preserved notes must refer to some sort of spiritual inspiration. A hint of magic lies between the lines.

Blue unicorn. Detail from a Three Wise Men tapestry. Maihaugen. Full record. Photo: Marianne Vedeler.

The Three Wise Men tapestry is in a Renaissance style and bears clear indication of having been copied from an older tapestry. Perhaps Åse had an older tapestry that, according to tradition, was woven by the Hekne sisters and that she used as a model? In any case, the sisters’ reputation for magical capabilities has been a part of the memories about Åse’s weaving.

The tapestry was sold by the family in 1951 to the Friends of the Sandvig Collection for the significant sum of 14,000 kroner, and is described for the first time in the museum’s yearbook the following year. The legend is not mentioned there, but it is noted that Fartein Valen-Sendstad, who was curator at the Sandvig Collection at that time, believed the tapestry had been made in the 17th century (Valen-Sendstad 1925:22).

Respect for and knowledge about the quality of handcraft must have been the basis for such legends arising in their time. There are oral stories about “Hekne weavers” that are tied to weavings on a number of farms in Gudbrandsdalen (Mytting personal communication). Through his novels Lars Mytting has brought forth the legend of the Hekne sisters to a larger audience. In his world, handcraft has meaning for how a community understands itself. Mytting writes with his feet squarely planted in local tradition, a skald of our time who tells us the story of the tapestries. Through him the legend is transformed in almost magical fashion into new art.

In closing

The tapestry tradition in Gudbrandsdalen ties together myths, legends and the visual storytelling tradition on several levels. That which immediately occurs to one is how the tapestries mediate collective narratives through their repetitive repertoire of Bible stories and medieval legends, just as tapestries from the Viking Age mediated collective stories that held meaning in earlier times. The stencil-like scenes that are portrayed show selected highlights in the stories. They point towards an oral and visual storytelling tradition that went hand in hand, just as there was a connection between the skald and tapestries in medieval halls and dwelling rooms. The legends of those who made the tapestries exist on another level. Here the weavers are central. These meta stories help to both keep the tradition alive and to bring forth the actors that otherwise are often silent or nearly invisible in the source material. In this context it makes little difference whether the stories are “true.”

The legend of the Hekne sisters is part of a common European idea that so-called monstrous births were special happenings that should be interpreted and decoded as messages. This points back to the pre-Christian symbolism of natural omens that was now interpreted in a new early modern understanding of the world. To consider the tapestries of Gudbrandsdalen in light of the stories they portray as well as the stories that have been told about the legendary weavers gives a different and richer picture than a single-minded focus on technique and execution.

Thanks

Thanks to Lars Mytting for enjoyable conversations, for the hunt for sources, and for useful commentary. Thanks also to Kirsti Krekling for important information, to Lisa Benson for assistance at the University Library, to Bjørn Bandlien for feedback, to Else Braut for allowing us to view the tapestries in storage at Maihaugen, and a huge thanks to Inger Martinsen for excellent assistance in the National Archives, Hamar. To think that we discovered a copy of Stockfleth’s inventory list! Two colleagues have given valuable suggestions for changes, without you the article would have suffered. A thousand thanks.

Marianne Vedeler,
email: marianne.vedeler@khm.uio.no 

Marianne Vedeler holds a position as Professor in Archaeology at the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo. Her primary area of research is the Viking Age and late medieval periods in Scandinavia.

Editor’s note: After reading this article, you might especially look forward to the final book in Lars Mytting’s Sister Bells trilogy. (Book One: The Bell in the Lake, Book Two: The Reindeer Hunters) It has been published in Norway as Skråpånatta, and will be available in translation soon. The final book contains references to the weavers as witches, the meaning of monsters in the 17th century, and the recording of the Hekne legend by the priest Stockfleth.

Translated by Katherine Larson
Affiliate Assistant Professor, Department of Scandinavian Studies, University of Washington

A print-friendly pdf version is here.

Notes

1 Discovered in a copy of the Kallsbok [parish register] for Dovre Annex, National Archive of Norway, Hamar, May 2022. Lesja priest archive OA. Sources of Stockfleth’s writings have been reported missing since the 1950s (Hoffmann 1958; Tallerås 1978:40).

2 Probate records show that the following farms were in possession of Flemish-weave tapestries in this period: 1658 Tofte in Sør-Fron, 1659 Hovind in Lom, 1660 Kruke in Vågå, 1660 Amundgård in Lesja, 1660 Bjorlien in Lesja, 1664 Opphaug in Lom, 1665 Bjokne in Lesja , 1665 Skjåk in Skjåk, 1666 Thogestad in Fron (?), 1669 Engelsgård in Dovre, 1671 Steig in Sør-Fron, 1671 Seggelstad in Sør-Fron, 1671 Gryting in Sør-Fron, 1672 Brek in Skjåk, 1673 Bjørnsgård in Dovre, 1674 Hundorp in Sør-Fron, 1678 Holen in Vågå, 1680 Forr in Sør-Fron, 1682 Håkonstad in Vågå, 1682 Listad in Sør-Fron (Engelstad 1956, 121). Many of these are large rich farms.

3 Transcribed by the author.

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A Special Notice: Beautiful Fall in New England and a Chance to See Frida Hansen’s Southward Tapestry

By Robbie LaFleur

East Coast friends! Please join me for a wonderful opportunity to view Frida Hansen’s monumental 1903 tapestry, Sørover [Southward], at Peter Pap Oriental Rugs in Dublin, New Hampshire. An exhibition and sale of rugs from private collections will be held at the gallery this coming weekend, with opening festivities (including a jazz band!) on Friday, September 29th. The show is timed for peak leaf season, a perfect time to visit Peter Pap’s extensive collections, only an hour and a half from Boston.

Frida Hansen’s tapestry will be a highlight. As Peter Pap wrote in his newsletter,

Many of you already know the amazing story of my discovery of the monumental tapestry by Norwegian artist Frida Hansen entitled Sørover in the collection of the late David McInnis. Now it is back in our Dublin, NH, gallery after hanging at LACMA and the Milwaukee Art Museum in the exhibition Scandinavian Design in America: 1890 to 1980. This exhibition originated in Oslo, Norway and my discovery hadn’t been made at the time of printing of the catalogue so they devoted a full page with a black and white photo from 1925!

Frida Hansen, Sørover [Southward], 1903

I will hold a lecture on Frida Hansen and the wonderful tapestry of swimming swans and maidens on Saturday at 4pm. The Norse mythology image is of swans and maidens sailing southward after bringing summer to the northern lands. My stories will focus on what happened after the swans “swam” to America – exhibitions in New York and around the country, its disappearance, and rediscovery. The best part of attending this lecture will be the opportunity afterwards to ask questions and walk right up to the tapestry to understand its beauty and structure.

Reservations are not needed, but I’d love to know if you are coming. (lafleur1801@me.com) You can review the articles on Frida Hansen and the rediscovered tapestry here: norwegiantextileletter.com/sorover/

In addition to the lecture, I will hold an Instagram Live session at 2 pm on Saturday, September 30, with Southward as the special guest. Please ask questions about the tapestry, request to see a close-up of any sections of the image (except those I can’t reach ten feet up on the wall), and share your comments and observations.

And the Rugs!

Peter Pap will be offering rugs from the collections of noted collectors. Featured will be the remainder of the late Dr. Charles Whitfield’s collection, including his exceptional group of Baluch rugs. Rugs and classical fragments from the collection of the late Dirck Bass of Guernville, California are included. Rugs from the collection of Thomas Edwards of Rhonert Park, California, are another outstanding addition to this exhibition. All these the offerings are new to the market. Some of these rugs were in a landmark exhibition called “Tribal Visions” that took place in Marin County, California, in 1980.

Rugs in the show will be featured on Peter Pap’s website, peterpap.com, and on his Instagram feed, @peterpaprugs, on the days preceding the show.

It would be wonderful to see you here next weekend, at this gorgeous gallery, but with even prettier leaves surrounding it.

Weaving Light and Meaning: A Conversation with Artist Soile Hovila

By Mandy Pedigo

In the early months of 2020, I researched art exhibitions in Finland that would coincide with my travels there in May. I was thrilled to discover that I would get to see an exciting exhibition at the Craft Museum of Finland in Jyväskylä.

The exhibition, Woven Image, was an exhibition of four Finnish artists: Soile Hovila, Ariadna Donner, Aino Kajaniemi and Inka Kivalo. It was the first exhibition of its kind in Finland. The pandemic made the trip impossible, and I could only look at the work online. Despite the limitation presented by the mediation of the computer, the work of Soile Hovila left me stunned and deeply moved. 

Hovila installation view

Woven Image exhibition 2019-2020. Soile Hovila World of Contrasts IV, I and V tapestries. Photo: Anneli Hemmilä-Nurmi, Craft Museum of Finland.

I first noticed the soft atmospheric light. Hovila crafts her natural light in a convincing way that made me forget that I was looking at an artwork. It invokes the feeling of being pulled into the environment and noticing what the artist is directing our attention towards. Though some might be tempted to call Hovila’s compositions painterly, they are unmistakably textile, an important distinction. There is a presence to them that comes through, even despite the mediation of photo image and computer. 

Among the works featured, many are from her World of Contrasts series where human-created environments shift into nature scenes. Themes include the importance of the natural world along with human impacts of deforestation, population density and loss. Amongst the buildings and clutter of human life, the forest emerges as a holy place, an invitation to reorient and to remember. The light of the sun pierces through to further invite the viewer into the composition.

hovel world of contrasts

Soile Hovila, World of Contrasts I, 2017. 162×130 cm. Photo: Henna Mitrunen.

Now a fan of Hovila’s work, I wanted to know more about her and the way she works. I recently asked her for some time to answer some of my questions about her work. She was very generous in her answers. I think it may be time to get that Finland trip planned again!

Q: You learned tapestry while in school, correct? What was your school experience like? Do you feel that it prepared you for being an artist?

I specialized in tapestry after graduating as a textile artist from the University of Art and Design Helsinki (Aalto University) in 2002. I had only a really short course of tapestry technique in the Textile Art department, so I have mostly learned by myself through challenging subjects: I wove flowing water and rock surfaces as well as portraits.

There isn’t any teaching tradition of tapestry weaving in Finland, so our tapestry artists are self-educated. There have been only a few of us, no groups or associations. Instead, our country is famous for its rich tradition of woollen rya rugs. Finnish textile artists have also used double weave and transparent techniques for woven patterns.

I learned to appreciate and use the means of expression of textile art during my university years. My love for the richness of color tones deepened and I learned about the diversity of materials. Tapestry artist Inka Kivalo taught me one short course at the University, but it was about jacquard weaving. But it has meant a lot that she gave me a two metres wide high warp loom as a gift. I have always admired her abstract works, the use of colour and interesting texture. I did not learn complex fabric structures and I´m not interested in them. That’s why tapestry technique suits me well. I want to focus on thinking about colours and image structure. During school, I also developed my drawing skills, as I have drawn and painted since I was five years old and started at Art school for Children in Joensuu (my hometown). I think good drawing skills are very important for tapestry artists.

I want to mention one Finnish tapestry artist from history. Eva Anttila (1894 -1993) had a really long career and she also taught weaving from 1926-28. I have studied Eva Anttila´s writings about tapestry art and tried to learn her way to make tapestries. I´m really interested in the unwritten history of Finnish tapestry art.

Q: How do you begin to design a tapestry? Do you work from a cartoon, drawing or do you respond to the work as you weave?

I design my work by combining photos, but without computer programs. At first, I sketch a tiny image, so that I can see the main lines and contrasts in the picture. Then I make a small sketch, because I want to make expressive choices with yarns and during the weaving process. When the sketch is ready enough, I draw outlines to the right size of thin paper. Then I draw it again from the opposite side because I need a mirror image. 

This cartoon is behind the warp, to help me to weave. I look at the photos closely when I draw and color the cartoon. I have noticed that when I weave, I don´t go back to photos that often anymore. I find it creepy to even think about printing a photo behind the warp.

Have you worked in other art areas?

I made silk paintings, I painted a live model on wet silk. This technique required speed and intensive work, so it is the opposite of the tapestry technique that requires patience. I have also done watercolours and woodcuts, with portraits and landscapes as subjects. I am also an art educator and art historian by profession. I teach children at a local art school, and I have done research on the history of textile art. I have also designed some carpets and made a community art project with handicapped people.

Q: What is the inspiration? In making art, there are many ways of working that can express an idea or the content. How does the materials and process of weaving inspire you?

Tapestry weaving combines perfectly making pictures and using textile materials. I get the strongest inspiration when I combine different yarns and look for just the right color shade and put together color gradients from dark to light or from one color to another.

Inspiration for weaving that requires hard work can sometimes come from outside as well: When I’ve found a good audio book to accompany me, I can continue weaving for longer.

Soile Hovila. Design of Ataraxia, Spring 2020. Photo: Soile Hovila.

Q: Can you talk about how you problem solve through the stages of work?

I usually plan the work quite well, but there are always points that have been overlooked in the cartoon. At first, I try to figure out how to weave by looking at photos on the computer. If that doesn’t work, I stop weaving, remove the work drawing and move the loom to see the work from the right side. I will draw the cartoon in more detail.

Q: Your tapestries depict sunlight so effectively and emotionally. How did you develop this? How has it changed over time?

The central role of light in my works started when I was looking for a subject that would combine nature subjects and abstract expression, color transitions. There is a huge amount of detail in nature, and I wanted to simplify the task of weaving, which is based on photographs. I ended up studying the rays of light that the fog brings out. Nowadays, I no longer want to design an image without focusing on light.

For the next two years, I will try to renew my perspective thanks to a grant from the Finnish Cultural Foundation. I´ll also include the shadows brought by the light and explore whether the characteristics of a moving image can be brought into slow weaving. For example, the flicker of light in the foliage of a tree fascinates me. But I think: maybe it’s too demanding and a waste of time. With Jacquard technology, this motif is already woven. So I keep thinking… I am no longer interested in designing only aesthetic, beautiful pictures. I want to tell stories and comment, especially the alarming state of the environment.

world of contrasts II

Soile Hovila, World of Contrasts II, 2018. 148×98 cm. Photo: Henna Mitrunen

Q: Your warp shows through on your tapestries, which isn’t done in classic tapestries in other parts of Europe. It feels transgressive and necessary and an invitation to look deeper into your fabric. Is the revealing of the warp important to you?

Yes, it’s really important. I let the warp be visible under wefts, even if mostly tapestry weavers think that it should be fully covered by the weft. In this way, undyed linen warp combines color shades and creates a certain soft, muted tune. Today’s tapestry artists use many different surface structures and materials of different thicknesses, but I have a goal of photo-likeness, which prevents using them. However, a flat, tightly woven monochrome surface looks often dead to me. The visible warp emphasizes the three-dimensional structure of the fabric, thanks to which the color is built from the light and shadow side of the yarn.

Soile Hovila, Detail of Ataraxia behind the loom. Photo: Soile Hovila

Q: What do you hope your tapestry invokes in the viewer?

I hope that the viewer of my tapestry stops and calms down to look at it. I have spent a lot of time making the work, so I hope the viewer will do the same. The best feedback is when the viewer is moved/sensitized and thinks about the content of the work.

Q: What role does tapestry/textile art play in contemporary art?

Finnish textile artists are proud of means of expression of textile materials and techniques. Art that can be fully defined as contemporary art is made here, but it is presented in the field of textile art. Is it modesty? However, it would be easier to get appreciation with the title of art than art craft. Nowadays, when visual artists use textile techniques, it raises the status of textile art at the same time.

Tapestry art plays a very small role in Finland, as there are only a few tapestry artists. When I invited Ariadna Donner, Inka Kivalo and Aino Kajaniemi to hold an exhibition with me, one of my goals was to make our technique better known and attract new weavers. Some artists who still make small tapestries are developing. But faster jacquard or tufting techniques easily take many of them away from slow hand weaving. And it’s no wonder, because jacquard textiles have gained a lot of space in the exhibitions of Finnish art museums in recent years.

Q: Finnish textiles aren’t well known outside of Finland except for ryijy (rya rugs). Why do you think?

Ryijy plays a central role in the field of Finnish textile art, too.

I haven’t read any research about how well-known or unknown Finnish textile artists are. So, I can only speculate. In Finland, an artist gets appreciation and becomes known by succeeding abroad. The most famous Finnish textile artists are those who received awards at World Exhibitions in the 1920s-50s. In Finland, the work of contemporary textile artists is not supported, as it is in Norway, for example. Nowadays, less and less textile art is commissioned for public spaces.

Q: I saw online that you recently finished a tapestry and have begun a new one. Can you tell me about it?

My latest work is named Ataraxia. I started it in the spring of 2020 and completed it at the beginning of this year. It is an exceptionally large,  an 11 square meter tapestry triptych. Working on this scale was a new challenge for me, with which I feel I am joining the historical chain of tapestry artists. The design of Ataraxia coincided with a stressful time, when residents of big cities were urged to stay in their homes due to the corona pandemic. I felt a great privilege when I got to enjoy Finnish nature. With my work, I emphasize the importance of nature in the pursuit of inner peace.

So, I got to design a new work after a long break. Ataraxia took three years to weave, and I won’t plan a new one until the previous one is finished. I am now weaving a piece with a bird taking flight over water colored by the sunset. This bird species has become rare due to the felling of old forests.

Soile Hovila. Ataraxia center panel, 2020-23. 282×172 cm. Photo: Henna Mitrunen.

Q: Where can people see your work and find out more about you? What is next for you?

I have a website http://www.soilehovila.net and I also update my Facebook and Instagram accounts, which can be found under my name.

I have a solo exhibition in August-September 2023 at Galleria A2 in Helsinki. In addition, Weavers of Vision – four perspectives on modern Finnish tapestry will open in the Rovaniemi Art Museum in November 2023 and remain open until February 25, 2024. We are also planning to organize a tapestry seminar at the University of Lapland. After that, I will focus on the Kouvola Art Museum exhibition. It is set for 2026.

I´ll offer my works to international textile art exhibitions, too. My work was selected to the ARTAPESTRY6 exhibition on the fourth attempt, so the goal took ten years. I hope that my work will be accepted again someday, because it is important to be part of the community of one’s special profession.

Mandy Pedigo is an artist and writer living in Minneapolis, Minnesota. She researches and writes about textiles and their history. An article about her research of Finnish designer Maija Kolsi-Mäkelä appeared in Surface Design Journal, Spring 2020. mandypedigo.com
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April 2023