By Shawn Cassiman, from Ironwood, Michigan, is completing an overshot coverlet in the traditional Norwegian skillbragd technique for the upcoming exhibit, The Baldishol: A Medieval Norwegian Tapestry Inspires Contemporary Textiles.
Each artist was asked to create a piece in fiber inspired by the medieval Norwegian tapestry. Shawn wrote,
After much research, and also in the spirit of fun, I decided to make a skillbragd coverlet that would represent December. The coverlet is a reminder that even heroes (as the man is described in some texts) enjoy the comforts of a warm blanket and vibrant colors during the winter months. It also highlights the skills of women who are often missing/invisible in tales of glory.
Both billedvev—tapestry, or literally, “picture-weaving”—and skillbragd are traditional Norwegian techniques requiring time and patient weavers to execute. Just as most Norwegians would recognize the iconic image of the Baldishol Tapestry, they would also recognize a skillbragd coverlet, even if they didn’t know its name.
Skillbragd is a form of overshot, a technique known in many countries, in which supplemental threads in colorful geometric patterns are woven on a plain base of linen or cotton.
Skillbragd coverlets were often used in connection with important life events. Throughout Norway, they were used to wrap babies at christenings. A popular skillbragd pattern in Valdres is called kristenteppe, literally, christening blanket. Coverlets used over the coffin during a funeral often included a central square or rectangle woven in a different color, where a candle or Bible might be placed. In this photo from Valdres, Norway, three children pose on a skillbragd, likely a prized family textile.
The colors in Shawn’s skillbragd are inspired by the Baldishol.
The color palette chosen incorporates the lovely blue of May as its primary color, but the red of April is also well represented. For added interest it includes some of the other colors of the Baldishol, such as yellow, orange and green, and a bit of purple for whimsy and a contemporary feel. The bleached cotton ground is a reminder of the deep snow of winter. The strong graphic nature of skillbragd in combination with the colors used, should hopefully, draw the eye to the similarities between the original Baldishol and my vision of December.
Weaving in skillbragd is complex, with its varied overshot pattern bands. Shawn used a pattern from a book on historical coverlets by Anne Grete Sandstad, Aklaer: a kle ei seng a veve et akle (Coverlets: To Dress a Bed, to Weave a Coverlet). She wove two panels, 42” wide and 85” long, using eight pattern shafts. The ground weave is unbleached cotton and the pattern is woven with Faro wool.
Shawn wove a separate narrow band for finishing work on the panels.
You can look forward to seeing Shawn Cassiman’s “Baldishol Coverlet” in full glory when the exhibit opens at Norway House on June 26. For everyone whose travel plans are curtailed during the coronavirus pandemic, a wonderful virtual version of the show will be up on the Web as well.
Until then, here is one more glimpse of glorious pattern, an “under the loom” shot that is popular with weavers. When weaving on a floor loom, you often see just a small portion of the piece as you work, before the warp is rolled forward. Looking under the loom to gauge your progress gives a tantalizing glimpse of the work that is unfolding.
Shawn Cassiman: “In my mind, there is not much more glorious than a beautiful piece of weaving.”
As with so many Norwegian skillbragds, this “Baldishol Skillbragd” is destined to become a family heirloom, as it was intended as a wedding gift for Shawn’s daughter, who planned to marry this summer. The wedding is postponed, so this gift will have even more stories, along with love, woven into its threads.