Celebrating Sprang, a Traditional Twining Technique

By Robbie LaFleur

I knew little about sprang until recently when I ran across the work of Liilian Saksi. This young Norwegian artist has taken the traditional white lacy technique and used it to create contemporary geometric art works full of color and meaning.

I had also seen references to Carol James, an American who learned about sprang and then used it as a springboard to design complex patterns and amazing pieces of clothing. She has written books and produced videos teaching the technique.

It is inspiring to read about these two artists, who each in their own styles took a traditional technique and made it their own. Read: “Liilian Saksi: An Artist in Språgning,” and “Twist of Fate: Carol James’ Journey in Sprang.”

A Short Introduction to Traditional Sprang with Some Examples

Sprang is appreciated in Norway as a traditional braiding technique. Most people think of white lacy borders on curtains or towels when sprang is mentioned, like this piece owned by the Sverresborg Trøndelag Folkemuseum.

Lace border in sprang technique. Sverresbord Trøndelag Folkemuseum. (full record)

The sprang technique is included on the Rødliste [Red list] of endangered traditional handcraft techniques by the national handcraft association, Husflid. The Husflid local group in Vågå studied sprang. Their document on the technique includes photos of contemporary items made with sprang, like gloves, a lampshade, and a dress for a small girl. There are two demonstration videos (in Norwegian). Their introduction to sprang reads in part [translation mine]:

In sprang, a braiding technique, yarn is stretched between two sticks or on a frame. The threads, which are left parallel, are wound around each other and can form different patterns. The technique has been widespread over large parts of the world and the oldest finds are from Egypt from approximately 2000 BCE.

In the Nordic countries it has been known since the Bronze Age. The oldest finds in Norway are dated 300–400 CE and are made of wool.

Among the textile implements in the Oseberg find from the first half of the 8th century is a frame that is assumed to have been used for sprang. In Norway, the technique has been widely used to make decorative objects, such as tablecloths, decorative towels and curtains.

Here is a frame with sprang underway.

Photo from the Sverresborg Trøndelag Museum of a sprang frame. (full record)

This description of the sprang frame comes from the Sverresborg Trøndelag Museum [translation mine].

A simple and square sprang frame made of untreated wood. There are 21 holes on each vertical side. In these, the warp threads are attached at the top and bottom. With the help of the holes, you can choose the length of the work. The warp threads are attached to a wooden plug which is fixed in the holes. The yarn for the sprang work is lashed around the warp threads above and below. It is braided/twined from the top. The work is identical above and below. Dividing sticks (4 flat wooden strips) have been inserted in the work. The sprang frame has simple feet with a cross plank in between. Sprang, sometimes called bregding, is an old and special needlework technique.

Sprang Artifacts in Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

Here are four examples of historical sprang, from the collection of the Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum.

1975.033.003 and 1977.065.002.  Both pieces were made by Camilla Heiberg Stoylen of Bergen, Norway. 1977.065.002 was made in about 1915 and used as trim for a curtain. 1975.033.003 was probably made at about the same time.
Camilla (or Kamilla, 1869-1957) grew up in an old merchant family. She attended boarding school in Växjo, Sweden, where she learned sewing, weaving, and other textile techniques.  The sprang pieces were brought to the U.S. by Camilla’s son, either in 1921 when he immigrated or on a later visit home. It was donated to the museum by Sigvald Stoylen.

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum piece 1977.065.002.

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum piece 1975.033.003.

1985.129.017.  Ingeborg Husan Sjetne (1877-1963) of Hedmark, Norway, made this piece of edging and entered it in a 1952 textile exhibition organized by her local chapter of Bondekvinnelaget (Rural Women’s Association). It was donated by Marie Skramstad DeForest.

LC0819.  This piece was originally part of De Sandvigske Samlinger Museum Collection (now called Maihaugen) in Lillehammer, Norway. It was sent as part of a large group of gifts from Norwegian museums to the Luther College Museum (now Vesterheim) to celebrate the centennial of Norwegian immigration in 1925.

This piece originally came to the U.S. from the Maihaugen Museum in Lillehammer, Norway.

Maihaugen still owns many examples of sprang; here are 17 pieces  still in the Maihaugen collection, as shown through the Norwegian Digital Museum.

These Vesterheim pieces are the ones that sparked Carol James’ book Sprang Patterns and Charts Inspired by Samples in the Collection of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum. (Read more about the book in “Twist of Fate: Carol James’ Journey in Sprang.”

I still don’t know much about sprang, really, but I understand the concept more after trying Carol James’ short introductory video. I recommend it! I felt clumsy while manipulating just a few strands of yarn, and had to go back and begin again a few times, but isn’t that true of any new handcraft technique?

I have a ways to go before I can create a shirt or an art work with sprang, but it is fun to admire historical sprang and the work of contemporary artists. I hope you enjoy getting to know their work.

robbielafleur.com
Instagram: @robbie_lafleur
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