Excerpted by the book Levd Liv, Vevd Liv (Woven Life) by Janne Leithe.

Translated by Robbie LaFleur.

Translator’s note:  A two-story-high tapestry, “The Red Thread” by Else Marie Jakobsen, hangs in the Science Building at the University of Bergen. Weavers will no doubt want to peer closely at the surface, and examine the thick warp threads weighted at the bottom with small stones. You should! I’ve managed to set off the alarm both times I visited this monumental tapestry, by getting too close. 

Else Marie Jakobsen was born in 1927, lived in Kristiansand, and died in 2012. Luckily, author Janne Leithe was able to interview Jakobsen extensively near the end of her life, allowing us to know a great deal about her thoughts behind many of her tapestries. This excerpt is used with permission. 

The Science Building at the University of Bergen (Realsfagbygget), built in concrete in 1977, was designed by architect Harald Ramm Østgaard.  The architectural style was called brutalism because the use of unfinished concrete gives a massive and brutal effect. Jacobsen won a closed competition for the decoration of the vestibule in the science building with her piece “Den Røde Tråd” (The Red Thread).  She always embraced the context and took it into consideration when designing her sketches. In the 1970s the sciences were a masculine and technical milieu. She felt that the masculine-dominated environment needed something soft, warm, and earthy. She chose to give women and women’s work a central place, and chose tapestry as her point of departure; to paraphrase, women who are woven and women who weave. In the huge tapestry there are repeated references to the unknown and little-known weavers who were overlooked and undervalued in their time. She created a collage of various motifs from various eras, divided in three sections. These are taken from the Middle Ages and in the years up to her own time. Else Marie Jakobsen used “The Red Thread” to create and draw a picture of all the women who have been important transmitters of our history through their work at the loom. 

The challenge of this project was working with the very prominent ramp that winds up three stories in the massive building. The ramp dominates the entrance, and Else Marie Jakobsen had a gray granite wall at her disposal, circled with steel and concrete. The wall that “The Red Thread” would inhabit had marked divisions, a problem Jacobsen solved by creating the tapestry in three sections, each six meters high and four meters wide.  

She used the ramp’s zig-zag form as inspiration and let the form of the tapestry create a fishnet pattern.  The dominant ramp prevents the public from seeing the tapestry in its entirety; therefore, she chose fragments of art and textile history that can be read independently. The tapestry can be read in this way, whether or not the viewers understand its entirety or have previous knowledge.  Those in the art world will recognize motifs, and others will see glimpses of an important and partially hidden textile art history. According to Hjørdis Danbolt, the unwoven sections of warp (devoid of motifs) are important indicators of the parts of textile art history and tapestry history that are missing. That history is fragmented, as depicted in “The Red Thread.” Here the viewers themselves must participate and contribute to bring out The Red Thread’s unwritten and unwoven history. 

The fragments are assembled in a collage of varying styles and expression in the fishnet pattern.  To unify the tapestry and at the same time show a clear message, she brought it together with a distinct color palette. Red and pink are dominant, contrasted with black, gray, blue, and white.  The cotton warp was dyed gray, and natural-colored linen was used. This work required a great deal of planning. 250 kilos of yarn was wound and dyed. The Red Thread used handspun spelsau wool, silk, nylon, and clipped lengths of seine twine for variation in the surface. Tightly woven sections of the fishnet pattern mixed with unwoven areas of warp. To get the weaving to hang in place, Jakobsen chose stones with holes in the middle, tied at the bottom of the warp. She picked the stones herself on the beaches in Møns Klint in Denmark. 

“…Here there is not only tradition, but also a renewal. What a brilliant idea has been carried out,” wrote the historian Hjørdis Danbolt in her report on “The Red Thread” in Bergens Tidende on June 17, 1982.  She meant that the ingenious thing Jakobsen had done was to weave the history of the forgotten women, and that the history was finally told. Textile history had been visually depicted, and strategically placed in a public setting. The history could have been placed on a dusty bookshelf, but it was now visible to hundreds of people. The unknown weavers finally found a place in history through Jakobsen’s commitment and creation. 

In the first tapestry Else Marie Jakobsen began by showing the women who wove images of men from Viking times, the Middle Ages, and up to 1650. War, weapons, and men on horses were repeated images. Stories from the early Middle Ages were depicted on meters-long pieces, made with both embroidery and tapestry. Jakobsen chose motifs from 800-1700, including the Baldisholteppet, dated from around 1150. The section she chose of that tapestry, found in 1879, shows a rider in armor and a man with a crown, possibly a king.

She also chose motifs from traditional woven coverlets (åkletepper), generally abstract and geometric patterns.

In the lower right corner is a “virgin” from the Wise and Foolish Virgins tapestries, which Jakobsen also referenced in another of her tapestries, “Elsk din Neste.”

She finished the tapestry with the initials of the unknown weaver. By writing them down, she gives identity to the anonymous. Other well-known textiles she references are the weavings from the Oseberg Viking ship, found in 1903. The weaving fragments are from a pictorial frieze and dated around 820, among the oldest found in Norway. She also used these as inspiration the following year when she wove “Fortidsminner” (Historical Memories) for Sen Rådhus (City Hall) in Tønsberg. Jacobsen also used a motif from the Sandsvaer antipendium from 1625, showing Christ’s crucifixion. 

In the center section she weaves motifs taken from the artists Hannah Ryggen and Frida Hansen. She admired them both greatly, and they served as sources of inspiration. In these thirty square meters, she praises her sources.

She also took a small detail from Gerhard Munthe. He painted cartoons for tapestries, for which he was best known in his time. But Munthe didn’t have the same connection with the materials of tapestry, as he had others weave for him. Jacobsen said that this could be noted in his tapestries, that they were a bit stiff in character.

Frida Hansen (1855-1931) was best known for her Art Nouveau style.  She received a gold medal for her tapestry “Melkeveien,” (Milky Way) in Paris in 1900, the highest honor an artist could receive at that time. Still, Hansen had problems being accepted as an artist in her own country, at that time or afterwards. Much of this had to do with the wave of National Romantic sentiment in Norway at the turn of the century. Norwegian critics felt that her style was too European. Frida Hansen’s work was primarily acquired by applied art museums in Central Europe, where her work was more right for the times. Wild roses and stylized flowers are characteristic of her tapestries. Jacobsen used her characteristic motifs and flowers in a collage-like manner. She also includes details from Hansen’s works, “Flyvende Villender” (Flying Wild Geese) and “Juni” (June), curtains in transparency technique from 1918. Hansen developed a transparency technique, in which she left portions of the warp threads unwoven. In “The Red Thread,” Jakobsen was directly inspired by that technique. 

Hannah Ryggen (1894-1970) was the artist for whom Else Marie Jakobsen had the most admiration and respect.  Hannah Ryggen was Swedish but settled in Ørland in Trøndelag with her Norwegian husband, Hans Ryggen. She was revolutionary in that she changed tapestry weaving from the creation of decorative textiles to a form of art. She is best known for her political images, especially those critical of Nazism and facism.  As the first artist to have a tapestry accepted for the Høstutstilling, (The Fall Exhibition, a prominent annual Norwegian exhibit), in 1964, she paved the way for textile art and tapestry.  In the same year she was Norway’s first female artist in the Venice Biennial, one of the word’s most important annual exhibitions. In 2012 several of her tapestries were included in Dokumenta, which is held every five years in Kassel, Germany. Hannah Ryggen’s art has had a renaissance in contemporary art. She donated several of her tapestries to the Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum in Trondheim, where they are a part of the permanent exhibit. Jacobsen chose details from “Mors Hjerte” (Mother’s Heart), which depicts a mother’s concern for her sick child, and “Kaj Munk,” which is a homage to the poet and priest Kaj Munk, who was killed by Nazis. She also chose details from the tapestry “Karsten i Vevehimmelen” (Karsten in Weaving Heaven). Ryggen was a great admirer of the painter Ludvig Karsten. To finish Else Marie Jakobsen “signed” Frida Hansen’s and Hannah Ryggen’s signatures clearly where she repeated their motifs. 

The last section is in praise and recognition of her own weaving colleagues. She chose a dozen artists from her own time who are reproduced in the final 30 square meters. Jakobsen reproduced a motif from each of the artists, and wove in their initials so that it is easier to recognize them. She began with Synnove Anker Aurdal, who was a leader in Norwegian abstract art.

She also chose motifs from the artists Elise Jakkheln (EJ), Brit Fuglevaag (BF), Ann Sønju (US), Ingunn Skogholt (IS), Kjellaug Hølaas (KH), Nina Gjestland (NG), Eli Marie Johnsen (EMJ), Eli Nordbø (EN), Karin Sunday (KS), Sidsel Karlsen (SK), Bodil Cappelen (BC), Tove Pedersen (TP), Inger Johanne Brauteset (IJB), and herself. She displays them chronologically—the eldest reference to the left—and finished with her close colleague Eli Nordbø. Nordbø was Jakobsens assistant in weaving “The Red Thread.” It took two years, with assistants, to complete Norway’s largest tapestry.