Author Archives: lafleur1801@me.com

Christmas Greetings and Bunads

The Fall Issue with Corrected Links

Today, the only thing more annoying than sending out a post in which all the links acquired a mysterious arrow in the coding and didn’t work is listening to the squirrels playing chase games inside our eaves. Here are two charming weaving patterns with squirrels that I saw in the archives of the Norsk Folkemuseum last month. I will not be weaving these squirrels. And I apologize for the inconvenience of broken links. For sure the links work on the issue main page – norwegiantextileletter.com.

A Week to remember: The Norwegian Textile Symposium in Skien. Magnhild Peggy Jones Gilje describes a meeting packed with programs and classes on traditional textile techniques.

Viking Weaving on Minnesota’s North Shore. Holly Hildebrandt is enthusiastic about a class at North House Folk School from Melba Granlund. She made her own warp-weighted loom.

Walborg Nickelsen: A Designer Influenced by Frida Hansen. The mystery designer of transparent tapestries in three museums is identified through searching the archives of the Norsk Folkemuseum.

From WOW! to HOW?: Weaving at the Karin Larsson Exhibit. This summer and fall, volunteers from the Weavers Guild of Minnesota demonstrated rag rug weaving at the American Swedish Institute during the run of the Karin Larsson “Let the Hand be Seen” exhibit. They drew inspiration from Karin Larsson’s beautiful textiles and an unusual rug 14 meter long rug in the ASI collection.

Guiding Students to a Satisfying Outcome: An Interview with Christine Novotny on Teaching Rölakan. A weaving student became a weaving teacher, passing on a traditional Swedish weaving technique.

Weaving is Life: An Exhibit of the Weaving of Marta Kløve Juuhl. Marta Kløve Juuhl’s accomplishments during her long career as a weaver were celebrated at Ullveka — Wool Week.

Skillbragd Puzzles: Overshot Coverlets in the Vesterheim Collection. Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum Curator Laurann Gilbertson ponders the weave structures of coverlets in the museum.

Tribute to Anne Kjellberg, 1945 – 2024. Norway’s museum community lost a leading figure in the world of textiles, costume and textile history with the passing of Anne Kjellberg in July of 2024.

2024 National Norwegian-American Folk Art Exhibition. See the ribbon winners in this exhibition that showcases the self-expression of contemporary artists who create folk art rooted in Norwegian traditions.

Book Review: Pick-Up Bandweaving Designs: 288 Charts for 13 Pattern Ends and Techniques for Arranging Color. Are you a bandweaver? Do you celebrate Christmas? Get this book on your list!

Book Review: Winter Knitting for Little Sweethearts. If you knit for children, you will want to get buy this book from two Norwegian designers and make the darling sweaters and other projects.

Thanks for reading! Please share comments and questions and article ideas with me, at lafleur1801@me.com.

Robbie LaFleur

Help support wonderful articles on Scandinavian textiles with a donation to the Norwegian Textile Letter. Thank you for all your appreciation along the way. Tusen takk!

Norwegian Textile Letter: Vol. 25, No. 3, 2019

This issue would not be possible without the generous work of several authors–and weavers.

The Red Thread: A Monumental Tapestry by Else Marie Jakobsen. If you travel to Bergen, Norway, you should visit the Science Building at the University of Bergen to see the monumental two-story high tapestry by Else Marie Jakobsen. Thank you to Janne Leithe, who gave permission for her description of the tapestry, taken from her book on the life and work of Else Marie Jakobsen, Levd Liv, Vevd Liv (Woven Life.)

National Exhibition of Folk Art in the Norwegian Tradition, 2019. Thank you to all of the talented weavers who contributed to the annual exhibition at the Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum.

Traditional Norwegian Weaving: A Long Distance Weaving Lecture. Thank you to Hilde Opedal Nordby for sharing notes from her lecture.

“Solstol”, by Hilde Opedal Nordby, shows rutevev used in a contemporary way.

Primstav and Textile Production in Scandinavia. Thank you to Lisa Torvik for taking us out of our high-tech daily lives, to think about the a whole different sort of calendar–and the importance of textile production in the lives who used the wooden stick versions.

“Under the Skin of Those Old Weavers”: Helen Kelley’s ‘Renaissance’ Quilt. Thank you to Lise Anne Bauch for discovering this quilted homage to a medieval Norwegian billedvev.

And tusen takk to those who donate to the ongoing production of The Norwegian Textile Letter. You are all part of the ongoing availablity of original and translated articles. Thank you!

It is easy to support the ongoing work of the newsletter via this PayPal button (or mail a check). Thank you!

Robbie LaFleur
robbielafleur.com
lafleur1801@me.com
1801 Fremont Ave. S., #2, Minneapolis, MN 55403

New Issue of the Norwegian Textile Letter, Vol. 25, No. 2

Perhaps this is a racy issue of the Norwegian Textile Letter? I’ll bet you weren’t expecting an article on Norwegian Underpants History. The article includes a number of artifacts from the Nordfjord Folk Museum. The Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum also has Norwegian underwear; see the addendum More Handmade Underwear: From Norway to the Dakotas to Vesterheim.

Cynthia Atley Peterson is an American sweater designer who has taken inspiration from Norwegian weaving. She has used both skilbragd and doubleweave åklær to design unique sweaters, hats, and mittens. Read Cynthia Peterson Sweaters: From the Loom to Knitting Needles, plus-–note her special offer for readers of the Norwegian Textile Letter.

North House Folk School in Grand Marais, Minnesota, holds a wonderful Fiber Retreat each winter. This year the guest artist and speaker was Karin Flatøy Svarstad: Felt Artist from Kalvåg, Norway. Mary Reichert wrote an article about her, and another about the experience of learning from a master teacher, in New Birds Sighted on Minnesota’s North Shore–Felted Ones.

In the first two months after the Call for Art was posted for a show starting in June, 2020, at Norway House in Minneapolis, nearly 20 amazing entries have been accepted (with room for about 35). Read about a few of the pieces slated for The Baldishol: A Medieval Norwegian Tapestry Inspires Contemporary Textiles. After reading Inspired by the Baldishol Tapestry, you may be inspired to enter the show. For sure, mark your calendar to visit Minneapolis next summer.

A new group has emerged for those who follow weaving in the Nordic countries; read about the Nordic Weaving Network and be sure to follow their Facebook group for inspiration and information.

Enjoy!

Robbie LaFleur
robbielafleur.com
lafleur1801@me.com
1801 Fremont Ave. S., #2, Minneapolis, MN 55403

If you appreciate the information in the Norwegian Textile Letter, please donate. It is easy to support the ongoing work of the newsletter via this PayPal button (or mail a check). Thank you!

Update on the White House Baldishol Tapestry Copy

In his thorough article on the presentation of a Baldishol Tapestry copy to Mrs. Coolidge and the White House in 1926, Norwegian author Hermund Kleppa contacted an assistant curator at the White House, Melissa Naulin. This was back in 2009, when he wrote “The Baldishol Tapestry in the White House,” which appears in translation in the February issue of The Norwegian Textile Letter. She broke the sad news that there was no evidence it had ever hung in the White House, and it has been in storage since its presentation.

It took me a while, but I was able to contact the curator again, as I had questions. Is the tapestry still safely tucked away in storage? Is there a chance it would ever be shown? Does the White House keep all gift items like this forever? Could it be given to the Smithsonian for display?

Ms. Naulin responded,

Yes, the tapestry remains safe in museum storage at our collections facility. It is certainly possible that it be shown in the future, although there are no current plans to do so. Public law 87-286, issued in 1961, dictates that any object accessioned into the White House collection remains so in perpetuity: we do not deaccession collection items. So yes, it will be here. It can not be given to the Smithsonian, but could be loaned there for display: in general, we do not loan our collection, but the Smithsonian Institution is the one exception to that rule.

She was also happy to see the translation of the original article, as she only had a Norwegian copy. It’s good to hear that the tapestry remains safe, even though I harbored hopes it could somehow come to Minnesota.

A photo of the original Baldishol Tapestry

If you didn’t catch them when the recent issue of The Norwegian Textile Letter came out, these are the articles about the 5000 Norwegian-American women who contributed to the weaving of the Baldishol Tapestry copy to be placed in the White House.

The Baldishol Tapestry in the White House. This article originally appeared in the Kulturhistorisk Leksikon (Cultural History Encyclopedia), published by Fylkesarkivet i Sogn og Fjordane (the County Archives of Sogn and Fjordane).

The Baldishol Tapestry–The White House Replica and Others

Robbie LaFleur
robbielafleur.com
lafleur1801@me.com

If you appreciate the information in the Norwegian Textile Letter, please donate. It is easy to support the ongoing work of the newsletter via this PayPal button. Thank you!

The Norwegian Textile Letter–With a Focus on the Baldishol Tapestry

This issue of the Norwegian Textile Letter includes a book review of the best sort–in which the reviewer tests out the instructions and reports her success. You’ll want to get out your tablet weaving cards after reading Helen Scherer’s review of Tablet Weaving–in True Nordic Fashion by Sonja Berlin.

At the depths of winter temperatures during our Midwest polar vortex this winter, Martha Brummitt was assembling a Viking-style pram boat. Next she will be weaving the cloth for an authentic wool sail. Read about her project and follow along on her adventure in “Building a Norwegian Pram and Weaving a Wool Sail.”

I am part of the planning committee for a great new textile show at Norway House in the summer of 2020, “The Baldishol: A Medieval Norwegian Tapestry Inspires Contemporary Textiles.” The Call for Art is officially released with this issue of The Norwegian Textile Letter. The show will include textile works inspired by the tapestry. Perhaps one by you?

Expert background on the Baldishol Tapestry is included from a section of Art Historian Randi Nygaard Lium’s book, Norsk Tekstilkunst (Norwegian Textile Art)–“Baldisholteppe: A Treasure from the Middle Ages.”

This Norwegian historical treasure has been replicated many times. In 1926 a copy was purchased by a group of Norwegian-American women to present to President Calvin Coolidge and his wife. This event was researched thoroughly by Norwegian journalist Hermund Kleppa. His article, “The Baldishol Tapestry in the White House,” originally appeared in the Kulturhistorisk Leksikon (Cultural History Encyclopedia), published by Fylkesarkivet i Sogn og Fjordane (the County Archives of Sogn and Fjordane).

The Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum has three full-sized copies of the Baldishol Tapestry in their collection. Read more about the White House copy and the Vesterheim copies in “The Baldishol Tapestry–The White House Replica and Others.”

Enjoy! As usual, let me know if you would like to contribute an article to the newsletter, or know of topics on interest to readers.

Robbie LaFleur
robbielafleur.com
lafleur1801@me.com

If you appreciate the information in the Norwegian Textile Letter, please donate. It is easy to support the ongoing work of the newsletter via this PayPal button. Thank you!

New Issue of the Norwegian Textile Letter

I hope that your holiday preparations and parties still leave time to enjoy the articles in the new issue of the Norwegian Textile Letter.

I wish I was closer to Philadelphia so I could see From the Heart, Made by Hand: An Exhibit of Swedish Textiles at the American Swedish Historical Museum before it ends on March 10, 2019. Maybe some readers will be able to make the trip, but the rest of us can get a taste with photos from curator Trevor Brandt. See them here.

I was lucky enough to examine the historical båtrye (boat rya) owned by Norma Wangsness of Deborah, Iowa, described in “A Treasured Family Båtrye.” As Norwegian Textile Letter readers, we are also lucky it was examined by Marta Kløve Juuhl–a weaver, weaving teacher, and museum employee from Bergen, Norway. Marta wrote afterwards that it was a bit of a “høytid” (a special occasion) to see such an old and well-preserved specimen.

We would love your help in locating a large tapestry by Frida Hansen, missing for decades. Perhaps you’ll help solve the mystery? See: “Frida Hansen: Will We Ever See her Woven Swans and Maidens?”

Lisa Torvik, author of “Playing at the Loom Together: The Scandinavian Weavers Study Group Tackles Skillbragd” and I both attended Valdres Husflidsskole as young women. We were in Fagernes within three years of one another, though we didn’t become friends until much later. The difference between our experiences is, however, that Lisa remembers EVERYTHING she was taught about warping and weaving. She was a masterful coordinator of a recent group skillbragd project at the Weavers Guild of Minnesota. Our group enjoyed it so much that we warped the loom a second time, and have a new group project in the works.

And finally, TUSEN TAKK for those who have supported the Norwegian Textile Letter with donations this year. For the holidays, there is a new incentive. For those who feel the holiday season leaves them sometimes ready to “Scream,” or feel the current political climate deserves this holiday sentiment, or those who are just fans of Edvard Munch, new donations in December will be rewarded with your very own Scream ornament, backed with fringed, handwoven fabric and beads.

Remember, it is so easy to support the work of the Norwegian Textile Letter via this Paypal button–and so appreciated!

Amazing Variety in the Norwegian Textile Letter

I recently realized that I had not looked at the “About” page on the Norwegian Textile Letter lately. OMG–it was so bare bones and inadequate. I revised it to give new readers and others a good idea of the types of articles written by talented authors over the years. I surprised myself with the variety and the breadth of content. If you are a relatively new reader, perhaps you’ll find a few more great articles you missed. And maybe you have ideas for more…..let me know.

Robbie LaFleur
lafleur1801@me.com
robbielafleur.com

About

The Norwegian Textile Letter (NTL) is a quarterly publication for fans of Norwegian (and other Scandinavian) fiber activities, published since 1994. Scholarly or informational articles aim to raise the level of knowledge about historical and contemporary weaving and other textile techniques in Scandinavian countries, and highlight related activities in the United States.

The Norwegian Textile Letter began at the 1994 biennial Convergence weaving conference, when Lila Nelson gathered more than 70 people interested in Norwegian weaving to form a group and begin a newsletter. More history is related in From the Norwegian Breakfast Club to the Norwegian Textile Guild – a Brief History.

The first devoted editor, Betty Johannesen, continued her work until 2008. Mary Skoy followed, and readers were happy with the addition of color photos. In 2013 Robbie LaFleur became the editor, moving the newsletter to a digital format, allowing the publication of many more color photos and world-wide access.

Content

What is covered in the Norwegian Textile Letter?

Exhibits

The NTL includes articles about exhibits of weaving in Scandinavian techniques, for the enjoyment of fans worldwide, and to inspire contemporary weavers. Each summer the Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum sponsors the National Norwegian-American Folk Art Exhibition, and the newsletter covers the weaving entries (Examples: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017. Another example is an exhibit of historical Scandinavian textiles owned by members of the Weavers Guild of Minnesota, from family treasures to fabulous flea market finds. Read Part One and Part Two). The May 2018 issue covered an exhibit of a Minneapolis collector, in “A Passionate Pursuit: Scandinavian Weavings from the Collection of Carol Johnson.”

Contemporary Artists

In the early years, the newsletter focus was on historical textiles and techniques. More recently, it also covers the work of contemporary Norwegian weavers, like “Celebrating Contemporary Tapestry Artist Brita Been,” “A Rag Pile, My Lot in Life” by Annemor Sundbø, and “Influences in my Art: Reflections” by Unn Sønju.

Reprints and Translations

Relevant articles published in other venues are often reprinted with permission, resources of high quality that NTL readers may not have seen the first time. Recent reprints include “Wisdom and Folly: Norwegian Pictorial Textiles,” by Jo Nilsson, originally printed in HALI Magazine, January 1998; and “A Common Thread: Weaving Traditions of Norway and Sweden” by Katherine Larson, originally published in Vesterheim, a publication of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum in 2005.

By translating articles from Norwegian sources, many more readers gain access. For example, “A Synopsis of the History of Norwegian Tapestry – and Some Thoughts about Tapestry Today,” by noted artist Unn Sønju, first appeared in a special issue of Lokalhistorisk magazine (a Norwegian local history magazine). Other examples include “Nettles – For Clothing and Much More” by Annemor Sundbø (originally from Lokalkulturen, a local culture blog produced by the newspaperFædrelandsvennen), and “Virgin Tapestries and the Bridal Theme“, a section from Randi Nygaard Lium’s recent book, Tekstilkunst i Norge(Textile Art in Norway).

Technique

For the many readers who are active weavers, the newsletter includes articles on technique, including weaving drafts. After teaching a class at the Osterøy Museum near Bergen, Norway, Icelandic instructor Hildur Hakonardottir wrote about an historical Icelandic weave structure in “Weaving Glit on the Upright Loom.” Minneapolis weaver Jan Mostrom has written several articles, including “Weaving Danskbrogd.”

Weaving Classes

The preservation of Norwegian weaving techniques and using them as inspiration for contemporary weaving is important to NTL readers, and there are frequent articles about classes in those techniques. Examples include “Craft and Identity: An Immersion Course in Norway,” “A Wonderful Scanian Art Weaves Adventure,” “Rya—The Adventure Continues! (Or, Rya with Not-So-Hidden Knots),” “Warp-Weighted Loom Classes at Vesterheim, July 2013,” and “Developing a Loom to Teach Scandinavian Weaving.”

Not just Weaving

Melissa, AJ, and the snow-wahsed rya

The newsletter was founded by weavers, and Norwegian weaving remains the main–but not only–focus of the publication. One of the most-viewed articles in the past few years was a translation of a scathing review of knitting books in the Norwegian newspaper, Aftenposten. See “Norway’s Recent “Knitting War” of Words and “The Knitting War of Words — A Reaction.” Carol Colburn wrote about sewing a timeless garment in “The Busserull (Norwegian Work Shirt) Tradition. Read about traditional Danish embroidery in “Hedebosyning at Greve Museum.” How about a practical article? See: “Snow-washing: An American Account and a Norwegian Story.”

Not Just Norwegian

Americans who are passionate about Norwegian textiles are generally interested in weaving from all the Nordic countries. The Norwegian Textile Letterreflects this wider interest, for example in “Weaving the Art Weaves of Skåne,” “Varafeldur: An Icelandic Rya Reconstruction,” and “Finnish Ryijy Rugs at the American Swedish Institute,” and “Sagnlandet Lejre – the Land of Legends (and Textiles).

Scholarly historical articles

From the first issue in 1994 featuring “Historical and Modern Lichen Dyes: Some Ethical Considerations” by Karen Casselman, the newsletter has included scholarly articles on textile topics. Recent examples include “Threads of Devotion: Possible Medieval Origins of Nordic Christening Bands” by Lisa Bauch, and “Taking a Play to Norway: The Costume Designer’s Story” by Carol Colburn, about designing costumes for characters from Norway of the 1830s.

We are always looking for sources about Scandinavian textiles. Do you have suggestions for new articles, or content to reprint or translate? Please address any question and comments to the publisher and editor, Robbie LaFleur, at lafleur1801@me.com.

Publication Cycle

The digital-only NTL is scheduled for publication each February, May, August, and November of each year.

Subscribe and Support the Newsletter

Sign up to be notified of new issues of the Norwegian Textile Letter. The sign-up box is at the top of the right-hand column of any page.

Any reader can sign up for notification of new issues. Currently there is no subscription cost. In this way, new readers won’t hit a paywall and the information can be spread online as widely as possible.

Support is still needed! With a “buy now” button on the newsletter sidebar of each page, it’s easy to use PayPal to pay the amount you choose with a credit card. Support for ongoing research and publishing is necessary and all contributions will be accepted with gratitude. Help keep the Norwegian Textile Letterfree of charge and free of ads. Thank you for your interest in the newsletter these past years!

You may also mail a check, made out to Robbie LaFleur, to:
Norwegian Textile Letter, c/o Robbie LaFleur
1801 Fremont Avenue South, #2
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55403

Printing

If you would prefer to read and store your articles on paper, a print button follows each article to enable printing in pdf format. From the “Previous Issues” page, you can also choose to download a pdf of the entire issue.

Editorial Board

Robbie LaFleur, Editor
Kay Larson
Laurann Gilbertson
Jan Mostrom
Mary Skoy

Please address any question and comments to the publisher and editor, Robbie LaFleur, at lafleur1801@me.com.

Sad News about Lila Nelson

It was a sad week in Minneapolis, and Decorah, and in many other places in the United States and Norway — we lost Lila Nelson. She passed away gracefully, slipping away over the course of a few days. Less than two weeks before she died, she came to an evening celebration at the Weavers Guild. She was able to talk with many friends, and see her weavings up in the Textile Center Library, part of a retrospective of works done by members of the Scandinavian Weavers Study Group.

When informing a wide network of friends, Claire Selkurt included a poem written by Lila.

Friendship

Two simple syllables, heard every day
And sometimes tossed out in a casual way.

Suggesting a person who happened to be,
In our complex existence on the periphery.

A slightly known neighbor who works at
Odd hours,
Or one who’s absorbed with her house and
Her flowers.

But friendship, dear friends is to you and
To me
Something too big for a dictionary.

It’s basic and boundless
It’s built on a rock;
It’s silky as satin,
And tough as a sock.

It rolls with the seasons;
It withstands all weather.
And, high road or low road,
We dance it together.

A celebration of Lila’s life will be held at the Textile Center on June 25th, 2015, from 5-7pm. Here are two obituaries with details of Lila’s life: the first one, written by Claire Selkurt, Lila Nelson, and an obituary written by a staff writer, Lila Nelson, educator and artist of Norwegian textiles, dies at 93. There will be additional information in the next NTL issue, which will come out in late June, following the celebration.