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Diving Deep: Nordic Textiles in Archaeological Textiles Review (Part Two)

As a textile history buff, one of my favorite publications is Archaeological Textiles Review (ATR). Archaeological Textiles Review is an academic—but highly readable—journal disseminating current research involving archaeological textiles, including detailed information on weaving, spinning, and dyeing. (The publication was previously known as ATN, or Archaeological Textiles Newsletter.) 

Archaeological Textiles Review is published annually by the Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen. It includes research from around the globe, from cordage in Chile to loom weights in Hungary, cat mummies in ancient Egypt to whalers’ graves in the Arctic Circle. 

Below is a list of articles related to archaeological textiles in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland, and Iceland, as well as a handful on Ireland and Greenland. Note: In the interest of space, I have not included the published reports on annual meetings, research conferences, Ph.D. dissertations, etc. but they are well worth perusing. Each issue of ATR also includes a “Resources” section devoted to recent publications in the field. Early issues include extensive bibliographies of the same. 

This page covers issues from 1986-2010. See the listings for issues from 2011-2024 in Part One.

All issues can be read online or downloaded for free from the website. All issues can also be purchased as print-on-demand copies from the University of Copenhagen Webshop. Avid readers might consider donating to support the ongoing work of ATR. Happy reading!

The journal images below link to the full pdf issues.

ATN Issue 50 (June 1, 2010)

A thread to the past: the Huldremose Woman revisited, Margarita Gleba and Ulla Mannering

Errata for ATN 49

ATN Issue 47 (December 1, 2008)

Spindle whorls from 14th -18th century Turku, Finland, Heidi Martiskainen

New discoveries of Viking Age textiles in Ukraine and Russia, Kirill Mikhailov

Workshop on the textiles from Oseberg, Marianne Vedeler

ATN Issue 42 (June 1, 2006)

Medieval Textile Tools: Cloth Production Tools at the Åbo Akademi Site in Turku, Finland, H. Kirjavainen

ATN Issue 41 (December 1, 2005)

Handicraft Knowledge applied to Archaeological Textiles – Visual Groups and the Pentagon, L. Hammerlund

ATN Issue 40 (June 1, 2005)

Decisions taken in Planning a Replica Artefact, R. Gilbert

ATN Issue 39 (December 1, 2004)

Handicraft Knowledge applied to Archaeological Textiles – Fabric Thickness and Density: a Method of Grouping Textiles, L. Hammarlund

ATN Issue 36 (June 1, 2003)

Medieval Archaeological Textiles found in Turku, Finland, H. Kirjavainen

ATN Issue 35 (December 1, 2002)

Fabric Width Control and Sett in Warp-weighted Loom Weaving, W. D. Cooke and L. Hammarlund

A Preliminary Classification of Shapes of Loomweight used on the Warp-weighted Loom, K.-H. Stærmose Nielsen

ATN Issue 31 (December 1, 2000) 

Issues in Conserving Archaeological Textiles, M.L. Ryder

Key for the Identification of Fleece Types from Wool Staple Form, M.L. Ryder

Towards a Reading List of Irish Cloth and Clothing, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett

Note: This article is not listed in the Table of Contents but can be found on page 21.

ATN Issue 27 (December 1, 1998)

Textiles of Seafaring, L. Bender Jorgensen and T. Damgaard-Sørensen

ATN Issue 26 (June 1, 1998)

A Note on Mineral-preserved Textiles from the Late Germanic Iron Age Cemetery at Nørre Sandgård Vest, Bornholm, Denmark, U. Mannering and E. Peacock

TN Issue 25 (December 1, 1997)

Reconstruction: Costumes for a Chieftain Couple at Ribes Vikinger Museum, B. Kryger

Fleece Types and Iron Age Textiles, M.L. Ryder

AATN Issue 23 (December 1, 1996)

Textile Impressions on Tortoise Brooches from Birka and Vendel, Sweden, A. Malmius

ATN Issue22 (June 1, 1996)

More Textiles at Lønne Hede in Denmark, F. Roberts and L.B. Frandsen

News of the Norse in Greenland, E. Østergaard

ATN Issue 21 (December 1, 1995)

Invisible Crafts, E. Andersson

A New Female Dress from the Migration Period: A Joint Scandinavian Project, E. Høigård Hofseth

Reproduction of Horsehair Tablet Braids from Scandinavia’s Migration Period, A. Sundström

ATN Issue 20 (June 1, 1995)

Tablet-woven Bands from the Middle Ages, I. Raknes Pedersen and A. Bergli

New Light on the Origin of Longwools, M.L. Ryder

The Farm Beneath the Sand, E. Østergaard

The Bronze Age Lady from Borum Eshøj, Denmark, C. Holm and P. Olin

Update: New Textile Finds at Lonne Hede, Denmark

ATN Issues 18 and 19 (November 1, 1994)

“Spun-silver” Work Found in a Bishop’s Grave at Sigtuna, Sweden, L. Holmquist Olausson

A Reconstruction of a Blanket from the Migration Period, A. Nørgaard and E. Østergaard

ATN Issue 15 (November 1, 1992)

A Very Preliminary Report on the Find of Textiles and Textile Equipment in Greenland, J. Arneborg

Woolen Sails on the Faroe Islands, B. Naess-Sørensen

Practical Trials with Woolen Sails, M. Vinner

ATN Issue 14 (May 1, 1992)

Aspects of Viking (Age) Dress: A Review of the Textile Evidence, V.H.M. Dale

ATN Issue 10 (May 1, 1990)

The Bronze Age Belt from Bredhøj, A. Nørgaard and E. Østergaard

Fleece-types of the Bredhøj Belt, P. Walton

A Bronze Age Oak Coffin from Nybøl, Denmark, L. Bender Jørgensen

ATN Issue 9 (November 1, 1989)

The 17th and 18th Century Whaling Age on Svalbard, L. Vig Jansen

The Gotlandic Viking Age Textiles as a Reflection of Society and Trade, K. Gow Sjöblom

An ‘Unusual’ Warp-weighted Loom Described in Njal’s Saga

ATN Issue 7 (November 1, 1988)

Reconstruction of a Viking Costume, E. Munksgaard

ATN Issue 6 (May 1, 1988) 

Whaling in the Golden Age, Excavations on Spitsbergen 

ATN Issue 3 (November 1, 1986)

Iceland. Some Early Examples of Icelandic Knitting, E.E. Gudj6nsson

Denmark. 9th-Century Linen Shirt from Viborg Søndersø, Viborg, Denmark, M. Fentz

ATN Issue 2 (May 1, 1986)

Seventeenth Century Textiles from Coffins in Roskilde Domkirke, E. Østergård

ATN Issue 2 (May 1, 1986)

Seventeenth Century Textiles from Coffins in Roskilde Domkirke, E. Østergård

This page covers issues from 1986-2010. See the listings for issues from 2011-2024 in Part One.

Nordic News and Notes – November 2025

The Scandinavian Home: Landscape and Lore. The Frick Art Museum, Pittsburgh. September 27, 2025 – January 11, 2026

“Featuring stunning landscapes, portraits, furniture, and decorative arts, this exhibition comprises more than 100 works from the private collection of Pennsylvania-based art collectors David and Susan Werner. The Werners’ collection includes furniture, ceramics, glass, painting, textiles, sculpture, graphics, and metalwork from eighteenth through the mid-twentieth century Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland.”

The catalogue, The Scandinavian Home: Art and Identity 1880-1920, includes an essay by the scholar Jan Kokkin, who wrote Gerhard Munthe as the Creator of a New Style.

The website includes a link to the labels for each of the works. They will whet your appetite for a visit. There are several textile works included, listed in this excerpt from the catalog label document.

The New York Handweavers Guild maintains an extensive list of films and videos on fiber topics. Six videos featuring Swedish artist Helena Hernmarck are included. The videos are a wonderful opportunity to go behind the scenes with Hernmarck about the inspiration for her tapestries and her design and weaving processes. The videos are in this list. Just scroll down to the “H” entries for the Hernmarck videos (if you aren’t distracted by the Olga De Amaral and Sheila Hicks videos along the way).

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North House Folk School in Grand Marais, Minnesota, has released their upcoming weaving class information, and several have a Scandinavian connection: Nordic Designs in Boundweave; Rölakan Rug Weaving; Scandinavian Roots: Weaving on the Rigid Heddle Loom; and Scandinavian Squareweaving on a Tabletop Warp-Weighted Loom.

Vesterheim 2026 Textile Study Tour to Norway — “Red List”

May 24-26, 2026. Explore some of the textiles and techniques that are considered endangered and are on the “Red List.” Many of the red list textiles are old techniques or are regional variations on more familiar techniques and textiles.The tour will travel from Bergen to Trondheim, with stops in several west coast communities. It includes a stay at the culture farm Bjerkem near Steinkjer, Norway, where students try some of the red list techniques.

At the website of the Shetland Museum and Archives, the Textiles section leads to many interesting posts with several about Nordic-related textiles. In “A Fragment of Viking-Norse Life,” Curator Carol Christiansen describes the thumb and a portion of a woven mitten that was discovered buried in a peat bog in Foula, an island off the mainland of Shetland.

Finnish rag rugs get full appreciation in a New York Times article, “A Finnish Artist takes Rags to Design Glory,” (by Aino Frilander, November 10, 2025. Photo by Vesa Laitinen for the NYT) The designer, Eija Rasinmaki, started with one loom in 1970 and now the company she founded sells 20,000 rugs per year. From the article, “For Ms. Rasinmaki, a rug is not just a rug, at least when it’s made by hand. Each rug is imbued with the tradition of its craft, as well as the spirit of the weaver.”

Edvard Munch’s Christmas Tree Baskets – A Christmas Story

In the collection of the Norsk Folkemuseum are four woven Christmas tree baskets. These unique baskets were given to the museum with the following information: “These flags and baskets were made by Sofie, Edvard and Andreas (Munch). Some were made in 1877 when Sofie was sick, she died in 1878, and some were made a few years later, about 60 years ago. These have been carefully cared for by an aunt.”

These four Christmas tree baskets were woven by the 15-year-old Edvard Munch and his siblings in 1877 and the years thereafter. The baskets are quite carefully made, with appliqués and one with pleated edges. These are among the oldest dated Christmas tree baskets preserved in Scandinavia. Photo: Haakon Harris, Norsk Folkemuseum.

The four Christmas tree baskets are interesting for a number of reasons. The most obvious is that they were woven by the 15 year old Edvard Munch (1863-1944) and two of his siblings. Equally important is the fact that they are probably the oldest woven baskets of this kind preserved in Norway. They further differ from other known baskets in that in addition to being woven, they have cutout shapes affixed with glue, and one has pleats. They are also part of an interesting history of Christmas tree baskets in general. Before we look more closely at the Munch siblings’ four baskets, we will consider that history.

The Danes have a strong connection with woven Christmas tree baskets, or “Christmas hearts” as they are known. The oldest preserved basket we know of was woven by the poet Hans Christian Andersen (1805–1875) in the 1850s and given as a gift to Mathilde Ørsted. This is a woven basket without a handle and was therefore not hung on a Christmas tree. The basket is woven in yellow and green glossy paper and today is found in H. C. Andersen’s House in Odense. In Denmark it became popular to weave Christmas tree baskets in the national colors of red and white after the Danish-German war of 1864 [Second Schleswig War], when Denmark lost the Duchies of Schleswig and Holstein.

In 1871, the journal Nordisk Husflids Tidende presented drawings of “cones in heart shape” intended as “decorations for the Christmas tree.” Nils Christian Rom, the founder of the Danish handcraft movement, was  behind the publication.

The oldest known instructions for weaving Christmas tree baskets was published in 1871, in the journal Nordisk Husflids Tidene [Nordic Handcraft Times, a Danish journal], where they are referred to as “cones in heart shape” and “Christmas tree decorations.” Niels Christian Rom (1839-1919), the founder of the Danish handcraft movement, was behind the publication. Rom was trained as a teacher and therefore familiar with the educational trends of the times, a subject we shall return to. A Swedish publication of 1883, intended for homes and schools and including text and illustrations, gave instructions for a “woven heart basket.” The instructions show a basket with a square woven pattern and pleated ends. Much indicates that woven Christmas tree baskets appeared in Sweden in the course of the 1880s, and that instructions with pleated ends characterized the early Swedish heart-shaped versions.

The oldest surviving Christmas tree basket in the collection of the National Museum in Copenhagen is from 1873, while the oldest in the Nordiska Museet’s collection in Stockholm is from the early 1900s. In Norway the Munch siblings’ baskets can be dated to 1877 and shortly after. The spread of woven Christmas tree baskets is connected to the spread of the Christmas tree. This was originally a German custom, mentioned as early as the 16th century and much later introduced into Denmark by Danish-German families. The first Danish tree was lit in Holsteinsborg [Estate] in 1808. In Copenhagen it was introduced in 1811 by the Lehman family in Ny Kongensgate [New King’s Gate]. In Norway the first known tree to be decorated was in Christiania (Oslo), by Miss Winschenk in 1822. In the 1840–50s Christmas trees were increasingly mentioned among middle-class and civil servant families, but they gained wider acceptance with the broader population only in the latter half of the 1800s, and were not considered common before 1930.

Figure from the first Swedish publication of Christmas tree baskets, from 1883, with text and illustrations suitable for use in home and school, and including instructions on how to weave a Christmas tree basket. Note the pleated edges that are recognizable from one of the Munch siblings’ baskets.

The earliest decorations were edible, but in the 18th century such edible items were supplemented with gifts hung on the tree. From the middle of the 19th century it gradually  became common to have decorations in the modern sense, that is intentionally made as Christmas ornaments to be used year after year. As the Christmas tree custom spread, so too did an industry to supply decorations. This was particularly known in Germany, where the Christmas tree originated, but in addition to imported ornaments it became common to create one’s own decorations, especially in paper. In Heinrik Ibsen’s 1879 play A Doll’s House, Helmer says to Nora: “Do you remember last Christmas? For a full three weeks beforehand you shut yourself up every evening until long after midnight, making ornaments for the Christmas Tree.” [English quote from Project Gutenberg.]

Such paper decorations could include elaborate paper flowers such as those made by Nora, or a Jacob’s Ladder, or variations of paper stars and colorfully linked chains, and last but not least woven Christmas tree baskets. In this way children and adults came together for a common task in preparation for Christmas.

The Christmas tree basket’s symbolism lies in the heart shape – a symbol for love. In addition the woven baskets helped to continue the tradition of edible decorations, since they were well suited for holding raisins, almonds, nuts, caramels, marzipan and chocolates. In this way the custom of harvesting or plundering the tree at the end of the Christmas Season, on the thirteenth or twentieth day, could live on. This is described in one of Denmark’s most treasured Christmas songs, Hojt fra træets grønne top [High from the tree’s green top]. Peter Faber (1810–1877) wrote the text for the family Christmas in 1847 under the original title Juletræet, Sang for Börn [The Christmas Tree, Song for Children]. Here is the first verse:

Høit fra Træets grønne Top 
Straaler Juleglandsen; 
Spillemand, spil lystig op,
Nu begynder Dandsen.
Læg nu smukt din Haand i min, 
Ikke rør ved den Rosin, 
Først maa Træet vises, 
Siden skal det spises. 

From high up on the Christmas tree
The light of Christmas shines
Fiddler, play a jolly song
We’re about to start the dance
Kindly extend your hand to me,
Don’t touch that raisin!
First we will look upon the tree
Then we will eat from the tree

[English lyrics: https://lyricstranslate.com/en/peter-faber-emil-horneman-lyrics.html]

The song describes children’s joy and anticipation of the Christmas gifts that hang neatly on the tree, where “Peter loves the branch so dearly, upon which the drum dangles.” Typical decorations like Christmas tree baskets are not mentioned as they had not yet become common. One of the earliest Danish descriptions of Christmas basket weaving comes from [the island of] Lolland in the beginning of the 1880s. Lauritz Jørgensen (b. 1876), son of the Søllestredgård estate, said: “After dinner on the first Sunday of Advent, the Christmas paper was brought forth. It was called “Christmas cutting paper,” and the first time I remember this was in my grandfather’s living room at the large square mahogany table that had rounded corners. Father measured and drew to the corners very exactly… The hearts were easily woven by small fingers, but were quite difficult to finish.”1 From his childhood in Kvinnherrad in Hordaland around 1890, Olav Omvig (b. 1883) related: “While Mother cooked and prepared the table, we children decorated the Christmas tree with all the baskets and stars and chains made of glossy paper that we had worked on for weeks, or that had been stored from the year before.” 2  Kristian Tordhol (b. 1889) notes the same from his childhood in Lesja, Gudbrandsdal, around 1900: “The last Sunday before Christmas was when we made Christmas tree decorations. The tree that year is the one I remember best. My two younger brothers were with me, but they had to content themselves with watching. I learned to cut and weave paper baskets and make various other things of paper, an education that gave me much happiness.” 3

A Christmas tree is decorated with baskets in colored glossy paper in 1950s Oslo. Photo: Leif Ørnelund. Oslo Museum.

Most of us have woven Christmas tree baskets in kindergarten and in school. This has been considered an educational exercise from the early 1900s. At that time it was regarded as an activity suitable for school children since it provided training in concentration and finger dexterity. Weaving with glossy paper was part of the groundbreaking early childhood education envisioned by German educator Friedrich Wilhelm August Fröbel (1782–1852), where the intention was to strengthen the child’s creative abilities, their patience, fine motor skills and self-discipline. The weaving of Christmas tree baskets was well suited to this purpose. Fröbel believed that from an early age children should be developed methodically, that at every stage they should receive knowledge appropriate to their age and that childhood should not only be a preparation for adult life, but be an important part of life in and of itself. The child’s abilities should be developed spiritually and humanly through play. The various disciplines he advocated included paper weaving, where cuts are made in a sheet of glossy paper, and strips cut from another sheet are woven into the first. Then the completed woven sheet could be formed into useful and decorative objects such as baskets, boxes and the like, and from there it was not far to the woven Christmas tree basket. As mentioned, the author of the earliest known instructions for weaving these baskets was educated as a teacher. Similarly, the first Swedish publication about Christmas tree baskets from 1883 was meant for use in homes and schools.

And so we return to the siblings’ Christmas tree baskets. As is well known, Edvard Munch’s childhood was marred by the sickness and death of those close to him. The Munch family moved from Løten to Christiania in 1864. His father, Christian Munch (a military doctor), and his mother, Laura Cathrine née Bjølstad, had five children: Johanne Sophie (1862), Edvard (1863), Peter Andreas (1865), Laura Cathrine (1867) and Inger Marie (1868). His mother was often sick and died of tuberculosis in December 1868, leaving behind five small children. The five-year-old Edvard later remembered his dying mother in the living room at their home in Pilestredet 30. “All five of us stood around her. Father walked up and down across the floor and then sat beside her on the sofa. She smiled and tears ran down her cheeks.”  After his mother’s death, her younger sister Karen Bjølstad moved in and was a mother to the children. It was she who preserved the four Christmas tree baskets made by Sofie, Edvard and Andreas. In 1878 the family was struck by another death when the eldest, Sofie, died of tuberculosis. For their aunt, Karen Bjølstad, these baskets may have become a treasured reminder of happier days when all the children were making Christmas decorations together. For us they are also a testament to Christmas celebrations, and perhaps they are our earliest example of siblings who made Christmas tree decorations together.

The Munch Christmas tree baskets range from 6.2 x 6.2 to 11.5 x 18.5 cm in size. While three have handles and are woven in red and white glossy paper, the fourth is without a handle – but with a string in its place – and woven of burgundy and white glossy paper. The strips the baskets are woven from are cut straight and the woven strips in each number 12, 9, 8, and 7 respectively. While the three baskets in red and white glossy paper have appliquéd pieces glued to them, the fourth basket instead has pleated edges like the Swedish Christmas tree baskets mentioned above.  We don’t know when the Munch children began to weave baskets, possibly in 1877 or earlier, but according to their aunt’s recollections they continued to weave baskets in the following years as well. We don’t know whether Christmas tree baskets were a common phenomenon in some Norwegian settings at that time, or whether some had picked it up in 1871 from the journal Nordisk Husflids Tidende, which also had Norwegian readers. But we can assume that the tradition of woven Christmas tree baskets was already established in Norway when these four baskets were woven, from 1877 and onward. Today there are not as many who weave Christmas tree baskets from glossy paper, but for those of us who do, it is a particularly pleasant and welcome “handwork” in the time before Christmas. It is a pleasure to gather together, children and adults, or perhaps only adults. A better way to relax your pre-Christmas shoulders can hardly be imagined!

Geir Thomas Risåsen (b. 1961) is a Norwegian art historian and non-fiction writer. He has worked as a conservator at the Norsk Folkemuseum since 2023 (where he is also Norway’s only “Christmas Curator”). Risåsen has worked with cultural heritage protection for several decades, and has published a number of books. His latest book, God Jul [Merry Christmas] is about Norwegian Christmas traditions, both old and new.

1 Museet Falsters Minder: Sådan lærte min Mor mig at flette. Nykøbing 2000, s. 5. 
2 Omvik, Olav: I manns Minne – Dagleg liv ved hundreårsskiftet. Band 1, s. 306. Oslo 1967. 
3 Tordhol, Kristian: I Manns minne – Dagleg liv ved hundreårsskiftet. Band 1, s. 29. Oslo 1967. 

Ibsen, Henrik: Et dukkehjem, published 1879.
Museet Falsters Minder: Sådan lærte min Mor mig at flette. Nykøbing 2000. Omvik, Olav: I manns Minne, band 1. Oslo 1967.
Tordhol, Kristian: I Manns minne – Dagleg liv ved hundreårsskiftet. Band. Oslo 1967. 

Tales in Thread – The Tapestry Series “Åsmund Frægdagjeva” by Ragna Breivik

Ragna Breivik (1891-1965) transformed the weaving cartoons of Gerhard Munthe into astonishing artworks. Munthe’s dark depictions of bloody folktales are powerful, but it is the subtle shading and strong contrasts in Ragna Breivik’s weaving that builds the impact of the images. Ten monumental tapestries woven by Ragna Breivik, which make up the “Àsmund Fragdagjeva” series, are on display at Bryggens Museum, the city museum of Bergen.

You should go to see Tales in Thread – The tapestry series “Åsmund Frægdagjeva” by Ragna Breivik. Block a good amount of time, because the descriptions of Breivik’s life and of the tales told in the tapestries are well-written and absorbing. The presentation is stunning. Visitors have enough space to see each large tapestry clearly, close up and at a distance.

Photo: Robbie LaFleur

Below is one of the full tapestries, The First Hall. The sign reads, “Inside the mountain it is cold and dark. Countless halls stretch before him. Åsmund enters the first one. The hall is empty and quiet, but there is no doubt there has been a party here. The tablecloths are drenched in blood, and black serpents slither across them. Without a sound, he moves on.” Snakes and blood! (And what is under the table?)

Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “The First Hall,” 1949. Photo: Robbie LaFleur

As I examined each tapestry, I took photos of details I loved, both for the images and Breivik’s brilliant weaving skills. I marvel at the subtle changes in gray and beige. Details like these:

Near the end of the exhibit a wall essay tackles the question of whether Breivik should be considered an artist.

Art or craft? Tradition or innovation? Artist or artisan? The ten tapestries that make up this exhibition reflect an artist and an art that defy easy categorisation.

Throughout her life, Ragna Breivik worked to combine modern art with ancient craftsmanship. Though celebrated for her work, she faced resistance from the established art world. By the time she completed her life’s work, “Àsmund Fragdagjeva”, time had moved on from the predominantly national romantic tapestries. Interest in her artistry faded, leaving only the image of a craftswoman who merely copied the designs of others.

Yet, it was “Asmund Fragdagjeva” that secured Ragna Breivik’s place in Norwegian and international textile art. Through this and her other work shines an innovative, modern, original artist, teacher and craftswoman. She lived and worked in the juxtaposition of tradition and innovation – both when working from her own designs and when following designs made by others.

I’m not sure whether her designation matters. Her genius is taking the lines drawn by an wonderful artist — in this case, the bones of the image by Gerhard Munthe — and bringing life to the final artwork through her use of color and her mastery of tapestry technique. Another exhibit label notes, “They called her “Munthe’s little weaver” – a craftswoman who wove tapestries from others’ designs, especially Gerhard Munthe’s. An independent artistic vision, they claimed, was out of the question. But Ragna Breivik possesses originality, skill, and a voice of her own. Her art and outlook on life resonate in Munthe’s imagery and folk ballads.”

This is the cartoon for “The First Hall,” shown above. Image from the Hordamuseet, as found on digitaltmuseum.no. Full record: https://digitaltmuseum.no/0210214843148/tegning

The Bergen City Museum has a deep historical collection, and the exhibit designers clearly have the ability to include buttons to push, or things to light up — all the bells and whistles that are used to attract modern audiences. I appreciated the Breivik exhibit design with only the slightest bit of high tech. A painting of Ragna Breivik at her tapestry loom, animated with AI, is placed in a huge space as you walk down stairs to the exhibit. It’s mesmerizing to see her hands pluck the warp threads, to go back in time. But beyond that, it is the tapestries, and the stories — both of Breivik’s life and the Àsmund Fragdagjeva heroic tale — that engage the viewer.

Video: Robbie LaFleur

On a rainy September day in 1891, a new life enters the world on the Rod farm in Fana. The little girl, named Ragna Mathilde after her grandmother, is the second of what will become a family of ten siblings. She grows up between mountains and fjords, surrounded by sheep, cows, pigs, and hens. Her father’s job as a maritime pilot often takes him away from home, while her mother tends to the land, house, and home.

The days are too short, yet her mother still finds time for the loom. Countless tapestries and shawls take shape beneath her hands. It is meticulous work, and it must be done properly. Ragna watches and learns. At just eight years old, she can shear sheep, card wool, spin, and weave. Most importantly, she learns the secrets of dyeing yarn with plants. “My home was my academy, and my mother, my professor”, she would later say. The legacy of her childhood home, the craftsmanship, work ethic, and the joy of weaving – leaves an imprint that will never fade. 

Art and cultural heritage meet in Ragna Breivik’s work – innovation and tradition are entwined. Like many artists of her time, she is drawn to national identity, the search for “authentic Norwegian qualities”, and a new national art. In particular, she seeks out the richly adorned and vividly coloured textiles of the Middle Ages. Here, sagas and stories from a distant past are brought back to life.

Just as important as the finished piece is the preservation and passing on of old knowledge. Ragna is firmly rooted in Norway’s old rural traditions, yet she dares to venture down new paths. With a profound understanding of wool, spinning, dyeing, and weaving, she explores colours, yarns, textures, and techniques. Plant-dyed wool and warp thread of blended hues create a shimmering, undulating effect on the fabric. In the meeting of old and new, traditional craftsmanship takes on a fresh expression – modern art, rooted in history. 

For more information, a detailed article about the artist and her lifelong devotion to tapestry, “Ragna Breivik and her Works,” by Magnus Hardeland, is included in this issue. It is translated by Lisa Torvik from Frå Fjon til Fusa, Årbok 1966 for Nord-og-Midhordaland Sogelag [From Fjon to Fusa, Yearbook 1966 for North and Mid-Hordaland History League], p. 111-130.

I you are not already planning a Bergen trip to see this exhibit, here is more praise from another Minnesotan, Holly Hildebrandt, an enthusiastic weaver who is new to tapestry.

I was struck by the fact that she dyed her own yarns to achieve such specific shades for each piece to so beautifully depict the originals.To be honest, I loved how gory it was. When I think of weaving – the act of weaving personally, studying textiles and techniques – it’s such a wholesome practice, rooted in tradition, and connected to ancestry and something ancient. It’s cozy, comforting, and calming. I didn’t know what to expect from Ragna Breivik’s exhibit, as I wasn’t familiar with her prior, but what I found was anything but cozy in the best way! I loved that she used her weaving abilities to convey such a gruesome and heroic story. The increasingly present blood spatters in every panel, the disturbing trolls and witches, it was fantastic. And so different from how I’ve ever thought of weaving!

 

Photo: Robbie LaFleur

Finally, for tapestry fans traveling to Bergen, I have two more pieces to add to your itinerary. Frida Hansen’s Juni transparent tapestry is at KODE, the art museum in the center of Bergen (described in this post), and the Science Building at the University of Bergen houses a three-story high tapestry by Elsa Marie Jakobsen (described in this article: The Red Thread: A Monumental Tapestry by Else Marie Jakobsen).

Ragna Breivik and her Works

By Magnus Hardeland

“Ragna Breivik og hennar verk,” from Frå Fjon til Fusa, Årbok 1966 for Nord og Midhordaland Sogelag, [From Fjon to Fusa, Yearbook 1966 for North and Mid-Hordaland History League, pp 111-130]. The article is also found in the Norwegian Digital Library.

Translation by Lisa Torvik, April 2023

A girl from Fana, Ragna Breivik (1891-1965), dedicated her whole life to the loom. She had a message to share which she conveyed through her tapestry weaving. It was the essence of Norway in color and design, the cultural legacy from ages past and the richness borne within it. It was especially dear to her heart to preserve traditions from rural communities. She had grown up in a farming community and knew its lifestyle. Spinning wheels and wool were familiar to her from an early age. The yarns she spun throughout her life were given colors and were shaped into designs which expressed her ideals.  As tapestry after tapestry began to emerge with powerful, purely Norwegian expressiveness, reports about her soon spread. If anyone asked her where she had learned her art, she had a ready answer: “Home was my academy and mother my professor.”  This revealed a lot. 

“Home was my academy, and Mother my professor.”

Her childhood home was on the Rød farm in the district of Fana.  Her father, Lasse Breivik, was a master pilot for shipping and mostly traveled along the long coastal channel.  But her mother, Marta Knudsdotter Breivik, cared for their home with the ability to take on any task, which Ragna marveled at to her dying day.

Her mother showed her the way around a loom at an early age.  By eight Ragna spun, dyed and wove by herself.  

What her mother most impressed upon her was integrity in the work.  Ragna learned the rich tradition of åkle [coverlet] weaving.  She also learned to dye wool. There were plant-based colors of different kinds, which gave the wool a particular aspect. Ragna Breivik was never familiar with the wide spectrum of chemical dyes which eventually came on the market; natural colors created the tonal effect she wanted.

Her mother’s mastery of the spinning wheel was her ideal.  She preserved yarns her mother had spun her whole life. That was the way spinning should be done.

When Ragna was of an age that her future should be planned, her father thought that teacher’s college would be good. But Ragna requested education in handcraft and this was taken into consideration.

With her fundamental knowledge of homemaking as background, she sought to learn more.  At age 19, she first took a weaving course at Bergen’s Home Craft Association [Husflid].  She further developed her natural dyeing skills under the direction of Hilda Kristensen and then attended the vocational school in Bergen. In the end, however, it was tapestry weaving that occupied her mind and attention.  She obtained her first technical education in tapestry weaving from Stefanine Oxås and Kristina Johannesen.

It did not take long before Ragna aspired to do more independent work.  The great Danish fresco painter Joakim Skovgaard had produced a work he called Danish Folk Song.  This picture formed the basis of her first independent design.  Then came The Five Wise and Five Foolish Virgins, composed by Sigurd Lunde, an artist in western Norway who eventually drew many of her weaving cartoons. In this way she started on the path that would become her life’s destiny.

Ragna Breivik as a young woman. Photo: Bymuseum in Bergen.

However, making a living from tapestry weaving, with the lengthy patient work that each tapestry required, was highly uncertain.  So she became a teacher of handcraft at the county school of North Hordaland. Every free moment she had she sat at her loom, which never lost its hold over her.

Finally in 1917, she freed herself from all other work and traveled to Oslo in order to begin weaving in earnest. Augusta Kristensen took her in and put her on more independent projects.  Axel Revold drew several cartoons for tapestry weaving during this period.  In this manner, his designs for “Bjergprediken” [Sermon on the Mount] and “Jesus i Getsemane” [Jesus in Gethsemane] came into Ragna Breivik’s hands.

After that came one opportunity after another. The Husflid outlet in Bergen commissioned a tapestry with the title På havets Bund [At the bottom of the Sea]  by Arne Lofthus, and with that Ragna Breivik was on her way.

But it was Gerhard Munthe who helped propel her toward her life’s success. Munthe had developed a decorative style which was ideal for tapestry weaving. As he traveled around the rural areas to paint, along with his wife Sigrun, they saw many fine woven coverlets in the various localities.  His wife wished to try her hand at this weaving.  They acquired an upright loom of the old style [warp-weighted] and Munthe drew cartoons for her.

That led Munthe into what would become his life’s work: the decorative “Munthe style.” He became more and more focused on developing a strong Norwegian artistic expression, rooted deeply in the native culture.

His goal was to elevate it to the heights of serious artistry, which would measure up against all foreign examples. To this end he dedicated all his abilities and efforts.  He interpreted our long and glorious saga in the Elder Edda through his so-called Snorre sketches [Icelandic bard Snorre Sturlason].

Munthe was interested in stories and folk songs, and was particularly inspired by the folk song collections of Landstad [Pastor and folklore collector Magnus Brostrup Landstad].  In the 1890s, artist friends would gather at the farm of Christian Skredsvig in the summertime.  Munthe was among these guests.  They were intensely engaged with infusing cultural life with the ancient national legacy, and Landstad’s collections were also discussed.  They would sing these songs in the evenings when all were gathered together.  Munthe was part of this too.

Subsequently he recreated these inspirations in large decorative works such as Draumkvæde [The Dream Poem], I Trollebotn [in the far north country where trolls are thought to live], Åsmund Fregdagjeva [hero of the eponymous epic ballad], Nordlysdøtrene [also known as Beilerne, The Suitors, from the norse folk tale], Døren i Fjeldet [The Door in the Mountain], and many others.

This style was as if it was made for tapestry weaving. It became apparent that tapestry weavers began to focus on Munthe now.  Some of them gave him the courage to translate his style into weaving designs, but the result was often disheartening. Those who lacked the talent ruined his motifs more than they benefited them. In the end Munthe restricted their use, and it became difficult to obtain permission to weave from his cartoons.

This drawing of Gerhard Munthe’s “The Suitors,” 1892, is owned by the Nasjonalmuseet. Photo: Knut Øystein Nerdrum. Full record: https://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/samlingen/objekt/NG.K_H.B.08239

It was in the middle of this “Munthe-fever” that Ragna Breivik felt the same pull toward the decorative Norwegian style which corresponded so fully with what occupied her mind and attention. She was young and shy at the time, but the compulsion was strong and kindled her courage enough to set off for Lysaker [Oslo suburb where Munthe lived.] It was no easy journey.  She didn’t know if she approached triumph or her “writing on the wall.”

As it was, Munthe did not have the heart to stop this young farm girl.  She was to take out whatever cartoon she wished from the Rasmus Meyers Collections in Bergen. As she walked out the door with his written permission, he called after her “You have my permission to disgrace it…!”

Ragna went home and wove Trollebotn. Her courage was possibly even more strained when she returned to Lysaker to present it for this finicky man. It would be success or failure.

He stood for a long time and looked at her work, and then said: “This belongs in a museum, and I don’t say that very often about such tapestries…”. And thus she had joined the foremost ranks of our artists, and the way was open for the goal she had come to set for herself.

She traveled home with new documents from Munthe giving her permission to weave all she wanted to from his decorative designs. After this came Bukken Bruse [The Billy Goat Gruff], and after that she started on one of her major works, Åsmund Fregdagjeva. This was a cycle of 10 large tapestries 

Gerhard Munthe, designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “Scene from the Billy Goats Gruff,” 1920. (detail)

In between these she also began work on Draumkvede, another of her major tapestries, which was commissioned by Fana municipality, and now hangs in the Fana church. Together, it took her 25 years to complete all these tapestries.

She also received new tasks besides the weaving. In 1920 she was attached to Bergen’s Kunsthaandverksskole [School for Arts and Crafts] as a tapestry instructor, under the director dr. filos. Koren WibergThe director was well aware what Ragna was worth, and Munthe also followed her work closely.

Munthe wrote to a friend in Bergen, “Despite all the other weavers who have attempted to weave my motifs, she is the first who has expressed what I have felt for the subject.  Please tell her this!”

When Ragna Breivik began to teach, Munthe showed his full confidence in her there too. One of the documents he gave her read:

Ragna Breivik has my full permission to give her pupils an opportunity to use my decorative compositions in Rasmus Meyers Collections, under her direct supervision; – and decide for herself which among my works she might want for her own use.

In 1926 Ragna prepared for a trip to America.  Koren Wiborg told her that the tapestry class at the school would be opened for her as soon as she returned. He was himself a discerning art connoisseur and shared the same interest in our national cultural heritage. His recommendation for Ragna stated:

I hereby attest that Miss Breivik has been tied to Bergen’s School of Arts and Crafts where she has taught art weaving for 4 years.  It is well known that Miss Breivik is the most accomplished and most important weaver we have in Norway at this time, so a recommendation from me should be superfluous.

I will in any case add that while Miss Breivik has achieved so much in both technique, choice and manipulation of color and composition, the most fundamental is that she herself is an artist with an exceptional talent.

Christian Koren Wiborg, Phil.D.

Most artists have in their blood a desire to see something of the wider world. For Ragna, it was America. In January 1927 she departed, with the best letters of recommendation one could wish for, and with an introduction by Arne Kildal (at the time chairman in Nordmannsforbundet, a leading Norwegian association in the United State) in the publication American Scandinavian Review. They introduced her further to the Metropolitan Museum and the Brooklyn Museum, where she had her first exhibitions.

The critic Christian Brinton used words of high praise for Trollebotn and Åsmund Fregdagjeva. He had never seen such powerful expressiveness before in tapestry weaving.  The particularly Norse aspect made a strong impression in the new world.

Among others attending these exhibitions, Mr. Allen Eaton, director of Art and Social Work at the Russell Sage Foundation, New York City, began to know her work and soon invitations came to The Newark Museum of Art, Montclair Art Museum, The Toledo Museum of Art in Ohio, and others.

Trollebotn, Bukken Bruse, and Andrehallen [The Second Hall] of the Åsmund Fregdagjeva cycle made triumphant rounds in the museums and all the critics agreed on the high quality of Norwegian tapestry weaving.

Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “The Second Hall,” 1929. Photo: Robbie LaFleur

It was reasonable that Norwegian-Americans saw benefits in this. A critic in Nordisk Tidende on February 23, 1928 wrote: “Mrs. Frida Hansen wrote in an article in Tidens Tegn a while ago that Norwegian tapestry weaving was in rapid decline. The present reviewer is at this point in time not in a position to have any divergent opinion, but now after having seen Ragna Breivik’s tapestries in the exhibition at the Architectural League, 215 West 57th Street, New York City, we boldly assert that Norwegian tapestry weaving need not fear any degradation as long as such magnificent weavings come from Miss Breivik’s hands…”.

Knut Gjerset, director of the Norwegian American Historical Museum, Luther College, Decorah, Iowa wrote to Miss Breivik: “I am glad to have had the opportunity to see your tapestry weavings in the Brooklyn Museum. These tapestries are the most beautiful I have seen. You have a great artistic gift Miss Breivik, and it is a shame that you cannot use all your time for weaving.  But so often has Norway treated its greatest sons and daughters unfairly….”

Ragna Breivik could not just put up exhibitions, however good ambassadors her tapestries were. She had to have something to live on too. She obtained a permanent position at Edgewater Tapestry Looms (a gobelin-type workshop) in New Jersey, and took over all the wool dyeing for the workshop. All her flair and sense of color were useful here too.  She eventually developed quite an index of colors.  In a single tapestry she noted up to 6,112 different colors.  It was all plant dyed.  In just the skin color for a face she used over 40 shades of color.

Ragna’s early knowledge of heather and foliage and mosses from her home area became very important now. The Americans soon discovered her comprehensive abilities and she received many good offers from weaving schools around the country.  There was so much she could teach them.  But, with every offer that came there was something that said “no.”

Duty was calling her home to the old country.  She was nowhere near finished with the large “Åsmund Fregdagjeva” cycle.  If it was to be finished, she had to go home. She had been working on Tredjehallen [The Third Hall, part of the Åsmund Fregdagjeva tale] in her free time, but it was not going fast enough because of her other work.

Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “The Third Hall,” 1931. Photo: Robbie LaFleur

When her mother died in 1931 it became clear to her that she now had to go home.  In 1932 she was back at the [Bergen] School of Arts and Crafts, as promised.  Her schedule at the school permitted her to throw herself into her large projects again.

In the midst of work on “Åsmund” she received yet another large project:  “Draumkvæde” [The Dream Poem] from a cartoon drawn by Gerhard Munthe.  As mentioned before, this was commissioned by Fana municipality. This powerful visionary poem, which is certainly the apex in all Norwegian medieval verse, has inspired many Norwegian cultural historians and artists.

[The folk music collector] Landstad and [folklore collector with partner Asbjørnsen] Jørgen Moe learned of the Dream Poem in Telemark in the middle of the 19th century.  The song-poem also wandered widely elsewhere and variations of it are found in different areas of Southern Norway.

Some believe that the Dream Poem originated in the Lyse monastery [Lysekloster, near Lysefjord, south of Bergen] in the 1100s.  That lay in Ragna Breivik’s home region.  In the song, the visionary’s name is Olav Åsteson, but several researchers have speculated that it was actually the first leader of Lysekloster, Abbot Ranolv, who accompanied Bishop Sigurd home from England in 1146.  Ranolv was Norwegian.  He was a poet, and had visions and dreams, like the ancient prophets.

Gerhard Munthe, who was deeply affected by the visions in the poem, learned of it from Landstad’s Norwegian Folk Songs. In the song, Olav Åsteson falls asleep on Christmas Eve and does not waken until the 13th day of Christmas [January 6, Epiphany in the western Christian calendar].  He then rides to the church and tells of his dreams.  He has been up in the clouds and down to the bottom of the sea, has seen hell and part of heaven.  

Only the righteous soul manages to come through great hardships.  He describes the evil and the good souls. Punishment is horrible for the sinner, but the reward is great for the good. The thoughts behind these words are dramatic and imaginative with gripping images, revealing a close connection to old norse literature.

When Ragna accepted the task of transferring this into weaving, she immersed herself intensely in the material. The colors were given “tones” in accordance with their expressive content.  Each bit of heather, each bunch of leaves and every clump of moss and lichen had its task in the color palette.

She planned the work from when she roamed the mountains to find raw materials for her dyes, as she put them in the dye baths, as the white wool absorbed the colors, and in the blending of colors in the carding and spinning on the wheel – in her innumerable variations. No colors have as deep traditions as these – the green, brass gold, and the many shades in between, natural white, natural [“sheep”] black, indigo and dyer’s madder, etc.

For such a monumental weaving she had to have raw dyestuffs that were entirely reliable. And so the “Gjallarbrui” in the weaving was called forth.  [Gjallarbrui, the bridge over the river Gjoll which led north and down to Hel, the kingdom of the dead in Norse mythology.]

Thread after thread was woven with determined patience.  She sat in her loom from morning to night, as long as other duties did not call upon her. The weeks went by, months and years passed, and the Gjallar bridge appeared over the bottomless, gusting deep. The wandering souls, the watchful angels with flashing swords, the redeemed souls above the bright cloud banks, shining heaven with Jesus Christ and the Archangel Michael and hosts of angels around them, it all came from the wonder of creation in her hands, with certain mastery.  The work was done, and it hangs now in Fana church. 

Ragna Breivik. Draumkvedet. Photo: Anne-Margrete Olden. https://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digifoto_20200226_00914_NB_PA_AMO_8_104

Ragna Breivik lived in this kingdom of the imagination.  This was poetry and dreams on a grand scale. Her own material demands were minimal.  All of her riches were to be found in the world of the arts.  But her creative ability was also realized in other ways.  Her students could attest to that.  She had a remarkable ability to inspire her pupils.  Her teaching style was very personal and effective.  She first set about to instill in the pupil confidence and pleasure in the work.  Ragna created an atmosphere of enthusiasm as soon as she entered the weaving studio.  She praised more than she criticized, and she wanted the pupils to strengthen their belief in themselves.

However, if she ever witnessed anyone bungling in the work, however well concealed, she viewed it as a flaw in their character and it took a lot to win back her trust. Honesty in handwork, which her mother had drilled into her, was a categorical imperative which could not be shaken.

The hours with Ragna Breivik were lively, with her inspiring personality. She led her pupils purposefully on the path she followed herself.  “Modernistic” movements in the art world made no impression upon her.

There were times when our distinctive national characteristics were overshadowed by foreign influences which poured into our visual world so that our nationalistic aspirations lost their status. Most of our people who studied art and came home from Paris were full of the latest and greatest which was prevalent in the high bastions of art, and the standards subsequently shifted here at home in Norway. It meant to not be “provincial.”

Åsmund Fregdagjeva is commanded by the king to travel north to Trollebotn and destroy the witchcraft. Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “Thou Shalt Go North to Trollbotten and Free my Daughter from Peril,” 1943.

Before she knew it, Ragna Breivik felt the forces against her.  While she sat with her moss, heather and leaf colors, and created her “saga-style” in the spirit of the old Norse, chemistry had developed synthetic dyes which in many ways matched the new vision of color.  There were points of conflict where Ragna and her pupils maintained their fundamental opinion.

Several of her pupils eventually departed [orig.-fell off the wagon!] from this view and followed the crowd, but Ragna had an amazing hold on them as long as she had them under her tutelage.  She would not budge, herself. She became more and more isolated because of this and had to experience that those who before had supported and praised her began to fade away. One of her best advocates, Koren Wiborg, died and many others after him.

The battle for Norwegian identity continues on many fronts.

While målfolk [people supporting nynorsk and dialect use in language] stand together in organizations and strive for more Norwegian roots in language use, Ragna stood practically alone without organizations to support her.  She had a small group who shared her views but there was no popular movement to come out of it. She had long relied upon rural people and målfolk because her ideal was another side of the same issue.

But whatever theoretical agreement was there had no deep resonance within it. This part of being Norwegian received a rather cold and passive reception without purposeful commitment.

The reason is probably that most people lack contact with the visionary sector of our cultural life.  There was no comparison in other work to promote the Norwegian culture.  The large monumental work Åsmund Fregdagjeva, which tied her so long to the loom, was more and more an urgent symbol for her.  Åsmund Fregdagjeva was the only one who did not fail in his ideals.  As it says in the song, he was ordered by the king to go into the mountain blue and save Princess Irmelin from the magic spell.

Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “The did not Lower the Sail Until They Spotted Trollebotten,” 1941.

One after another his helpers disappeared as they approached the trolls’ lair. 

Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “We Would Rather Guard Your Ship Beneath the Cliffs,” 1939.

In the end, Åsmund stood alone. With sword in hand he forced his way into the halls.  There he dueled with all the evils which the different trolls represented. They were lust for power, envy, cowardness, falsehood, arrogance, and all the other contemptible sides of humanity. It took him through one hall after the other. Poisonous snakes danced on the tables and animals [sheep?] snuck up on him wherever he went and stood.  But Åsmund struck them down without mercy.

How much of this Munthe intended to symbolically represent and how much Ragna read into his design is not easy to say, but for her this was deadly serious and she experienced it all so intensely that she shuddered many times while working on it. But when she had worked her way through the long dramatic series, when Åsmund finds Irmelin, together with piles of gold and silver, the victory was won. Ragna breathed a sigh of relief after the years-long struggle with this monumental work.

Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Ragna Breivik, Weaver. “The Treasure,” 1947. “So he took both silver and gold, as much as he could find.”
Ragna Breivik with “The Treasure” on the loom, 1947. Photo owned by the University of Bergen, https://marcus.uib.no/instance/photograph/ubb-kk-n-x-00031.html.

After the invasion of Norway in 1940, Åsmund Fregdagjeva also became a symbol of our liberation forces, and all the evil they fought against. Ragna’s wish was that this series would be hung in a memorial hall for the battle to liberate Norway. Ragna shone like a beacon for her great ideas. The ten large tapestries were shown in exhibitions in Bergen and Oslo. In addition to this she received inquiries from rural areas, where she especially liked to present them.

She was often present herself and told of Åsmund and his quest.  Her personal inner sources of strength were also evident in her talks.  She swept people away.  It was the battle between the powers [of good and evil] she wanted to spotlight. An evening with Ragna Breivik could be quite an experience.  As impulsive as she was, she did not know herself what kind of remarks would be made before the evening ended.

She could walk along the row of tapestries with pointer in hand and tell of the witchcraft in arrogance, lust for power, cowardness, demagoguery etc. and about Åsmund, with right and truth behind him, and the merciless battle between them. But, in the next moment, the pointer could be laid upon the shoulder of one or another in the hall: “Are you Åsmund?  I think you are!”

This pointer was the same for Loke [i.e. evil] as for Tor [good.] She could get the entire audience to chuckle and laugh, and in the blink of an eye summon their deepest seriousness. She had a remarkable ability to admonish and incite people to action.

In that respect she resembled the great women in our saga literature. All who possessed idealistic sensibilities were easily persuaded by her. Her moral and cultural viewpoint stood like a steadfast pillar in the middle of shifting movements.

She could have turned the Åsmund Fregdagjeva series into money in several ways. She could have sold the tapestries in American dollars and improved her economic situation.  But she would rather be without the money than to let the series go out of Norway.

They could hang in Oslo City Hall and represent the country, together with all the other monumental works collected there. But the space they had assigned “Åsmund” to did not meet with her expectations.  Better to be without gold or honor than to disappoint her plans.

The only task of Åsmund Fregdaggjeva would be to relate the story of our national heroes. It takes a strong back to bear such uncompromising ideals. It was so difficult to find understanding for her plans.  It was like rowing constantly against the wind.

Just the same she took on work without thinking about monetary compensation.  When her brother, captain Nicolai Breivik, went down with his ship one stormy day – the ship Elfrida – on December 9, 1959, it made, as would be expected, a heavy impression on her.

Right away Ragna took to her loom – to create a memorial for him.  It took her a half a year [to complete.] A skip in danger at sea.  An angel with the crown of life hovers over the ship.  She wove in the inscription:  As sail you must, the angel places the crown upon you. The Norwegian Seaman’s Church in Copenhagen held a memorial service after the sinking of the Elfrida [it was the ship’s home port.]  Ragna gave the church this tapestry in memory of her brother, and she traveled there herself to make the donation.

Ragna Breivik weaving the angel with crown over a ship in danger at sea. Photo: Karl Knudsen, Owned by the University of Bergen Library. https://marcus.uib.no/instance/photograph/ubb-kk-n-489-004.html

If she sold a tapestry, she would not ask for a very high price.  She was more concerned about where it would be hung than what she would earn.  Now and then she appeared to be tired. She was happy for anyone who shared her views, and who helped her face the opposition

Her workroom hosted a steady stream of visitors from all levels of society.  Her personality impressed anyone who came to see and hear her. It was best for her however when she was alone with her weaving and the great symbolic imagery of the world she wove in with her many-colored threads.  Time and space disappeared.  She was in her rightful element and the world outside could go on its merry way.

And so she created her artistic treasures. It was love of country and the ancient culture heritage which was so precious to her. As the years went by, she reached retirement age as a teacher at the school of arts and crafts.

In one respect, this was liberating but living also has its minimum requirements.  About this time she hoped for a stipend which would allow her to continue on a grand scale, to reach her objectives.  A comfortable economic independence would pave the way for several large projects.

Many of her friends rallied to her cause with the authorities, trying to obtain more secure and flexible working conditions for her.  Applications for an artist’s stipend sent [on her behalf] from housewives leagues and the league of rural women and other organizations did not succeed.

For several years she had received a work stipend, which helped somewhat.  This was even increased in the last few years.  But not so much that her economic anxiety was relieved now that she was to quit working at the school. Among her friends were many who were in management and administration in various sectors. They worked faithfully and purposefully for her cause, and hoped for proper resolution to these problems.

If Ragna had herself conceded to all the new style demands, it would have gone easier with the recommendations within artistic circles. But her objectives were life itself for her and here she could not compromise. The path she had set would be followed no matter what it cost. Ragna Breivik was a strong individual.

To her friends it appeared that she had unlimited powers.  But eventually even these began to fail. One day in February 1964 the time came that she had to lay down the threads.  A Munthe-tapestry was in the loom, and she had only a small corner left to complete it. But, this was to be her last tapestry.

The little studio at number 2 Håkonsgata in Bergen stood empty after she left.  Her siblings took her back to their childhood home, where the foundation of her life was laid, and they cared for her with love. She died at home at Rød in Fana on March 10, 1965, 73 years old.

The work she did all her days stands witness to a creative power we so seldom meet. When she stood as a young girl in Lysaker with the first of her tapestries, she received Munthe’s exhortation:  “Go home and begin something even greater!” Ragna promised to do that and she did.

The wheel of time turns ever slowly.  But she always worked it out so that which was genuine and true rose like cream to the top. The art and culture of our time is constantly changing in this amazing process. Artists do not always get see the final objective for their work.  It is therefore not finished for them, though they have passed away.  Ragna Breivik’s work has its future.

She did not get to see Åsmund Fregdagjeva in a memorial hall for our heroes.  At her death, the series of tapestries still lay in a trunk in her studio.  She knew that her time had to come some day, and therefore she wanted to be certain that they would be handled correctly, as was her goal.  According to her wishes, they were turned over to the Munthe heirs, who knew her life’s work, and who would value them as she deserved.

With that the circle was complete. Munthe’s work and her work were two sides of the same cause:  “Despite all the other weavers who have attempted to weave my motifs, she is the first who has expressed what I have felt for the subject.” Together they created Norwegian-ness of the purest kind.

Ragna Breivik has left behind a legacy which benefits our entire culture.  It stands as a monument to the whole-hearted contributions of all Norwegians whose lives were dedicated to preserving the most valuable [cultural] things we have.

Ragna Breivik was a hero on our cultural home front, and for that she has earned the highest glory and honor.

Norma Smayda: Sixty Years a Weaver

Fjord Hesten. Traditional Norwegian tapestry, wool on linen warp.   1974.

After graduating from Bucknell University with a degree in Biochemistry, I worked at DuPont’s biology lab for one year. I moved to Norway as a new bride in 1956 to begin an exciting four years as a Fulbright wife, working part time at the Institute of Marine Biology and raising our first child. I grew to love that country and its people, many of whom became dear friends. The landscape, the culture – theater, concerts, art exhibitions and craft galleries – all felt right, comfortable and challenging. Perhaps this is because I am of Norwegian heritage, although growing up I experienced few Norwegian traditions. Our landlord was an art collector, introduced me to art galleries, and I bought my first art piece, a lithograph by Knut Froysaa.

I credit the start of my career in weaving to seeing a label on a lovely blanket that said “hand woven by.” I don’t remember if I ever knew the weaver’s name. I knew nothing about handweaving, had never met a handweaver. But something resonated. Six years later we were back in Oslo for six months, and I found a summer weaving school, Monica Skolen. It was located in a charming old fashioned cabin in Frogner Park, behind the royal palace. I signed up for a two week session, and was so enamored that I signed up for a second session. Tom and Susan, now ages 8 and 6, played in the park while I wove, four hours a day, five days a week. I wove beautiful products – table runners and mats, a tote bag, a poncho – in different traditional Norwegian techniques, in beautiful yarns and colors. I still have most of those textiles. We wove on 4 shaft Monica table looms, with string heddles and a swinging beater. The looms were threaded to different techniques, with treadling directions taped to the looms. I was becoming a weaver! By the end of the second session I ordered a loom, loom stand and warping mill. My wonderful teacher, Kari Kaurin, dressed my loom with 15 meters of blue wool, threaded to rosepath. Back in Rhode Island I wove and wove, and soon realized I had a problem. I had learned nothing about designing a warp, dressing the loom, or even where to buy materials.  

[Below, two pieces woven at Monica Skolen in 1965: “Vams,” a wool ski top in rosepath, and a lined wool tote bag woven in krokbragd on three shafts.]

The Weaving Goddess was watching over me. About the time I finished weaving yards and yards of rosepath, I met a woman who was giving a talk on finger weaving. She agreed to help me design and wind on a project, saying, “I will only come back again to help if this is woven off in 3 weeks.” I took good notes and wove it off in less than 3 weeks! Gwen MacIntyre became a mentor and good friend.  

In 1973 we found ourselves back in Norway for a sabbatical. The children were now busy becoming Norwegian teenagers and learning to love the country as I did. I had the time to take a year-long weaving course at the Baerum Husflidsforening (home craft school) 6 hours a day, 5 days a week, plus other textile related classes, including tapestry. Ulla Hansson became my mentor. She was a knowledgeable weaver, an excellent teacher, and she recognized and encouraged my passion for all things weaving. Along with the simpler traditional techniques, I also had the opportunity to delve into Meraker (a non-reversible pick up double weave), kjepskill, and skillbragd on a loom especially adapted for this technique. I was also able to take two week concentrated courses in spinning and plant dying at the Statens Laereskole i Forming [National College of Applied Art].  

[Below: A wall hanging sampler in Meraker, along with two detail shots.]

[Below are two weavings woven in 1973 at Baerum Husflidsforening: a linen unicorn tapestry woven in Beiderwand pick up technique, and a hostess skirt and blouse woven in Monk’s belt. The wool, lined skirt and blouse were designed and sewn at a BHF tailoring class.]

A fun fact: The Baerum Husflidsforening was located on the second floor of the old police station, an historic wooden building. One morning a man appeared at the door and inquired what we were doing to make so much noise. Some weavers were making rugs. He asked if would please stop weaving for a while. On the first floor Sean Connery was being filmed for a segment of the movie Airplane, and our weaving caused the old building to vibrate and disturb their filming. We stopped weaving, but unfortunately never got to see Sean Connery.

[Below are two skillbragd pieces, woven in 1974 at Baerum Husflidsforening: a wall hanging in wool and linen, and a runner woven with a loom attachment to allow for pattern shafts.]

I completed that year in Norway with two weeks in Toijala, Finland, to learn Finnish traditional weaving techniques, and wove more finnweave, with one layer in twill, the other in plain weave, a raanu (a colorful plain weave rug used as coverings for Saami tents), and a lovely blanket that was machine brushed with teasels.  I had seen beautiful tapestries in Norway and Finland, and especially admired historic tapestries, work of Hannah Ryggen and Frida Hansen, and square weave wall hangings.

We returned to Rhode Island in September 1974, and I was in ‘weaving mode,’ weaving on my Monica table loom while I waited for my new loom at arrive, a 54” 8 shaft countermarche Glimakra loom (now converted to a 10 shaft, 12 treadle loom). This was and still is my favorite loom.

My Norwegian teachers, especially Ulla Hansson, had been very generous with their skills, knowledge and time, and I wanted to give back in some way. A few local weavers asked me to teach what I had learned, and fortuitously a wonderful space became available. Neighbors were adding a craft center to their home, and I was given a small section. 

I started the Saunderstown Weaving School.  Over the years I acquired more of the space, until today we occupy all of it. More looms found space here. A few I bought, more were donated, some of historical significance. Among others are two looms from William Henry Harrison Rose (1839-1913), a prominent Rhode Island weaver known as “Weaver Rose.” The niece of Osma Gallinger Todd gave me her aunt’s loom, built by Milo Gallinger. And a little two legged Swedish loom with string heddles and a swinging beater – yes, two legged! – with built-in clamps that clamp to a table, and can be collapsed to fit under the bed. From our original 6 looms we now have about 45 floor looms, 3 table looms and 3 tapestry looms.

What began as one class with 6 weavers, quickly expanded to 3 weekly classes with a student body of 25 – 30 weavers.   Much of the weaving here is traditional, weaving Scandinavian techniques as well as Weaver Rose and Bertha Gray Hayes overshot patterns. I had wanted to teach weaving at the college level, so went back to school, getting my MFA in Visual Design from University of Massachusetts-Dartmouth. However, after teaching one semester at Emmanuel College, I realized that I was spending too much time on committees, and really wanted to devote my time to teaching. The weaving school was designed on what I knew from my Norwegian classes. I had no other model. Beginner, intermediate and advanced weavers in each class, weaving on a variety of looms, and creating a variety of projects, gave the weavers a broad experience. We celebrated our 50th anniversary with a celebratory exhibition at Hera, a local women’s art gallery.

I’ve returned to Norway a few more times. From 1978 – 1982 I planned weaving tours and took eight weavers annually for five years, visiting the places I loved. We traveled from Bergen to Trondheim to Oslo, in mountain and fjord country, took walking tapestry tours in each city, and wove in a small craft school. In 1987 I returned to visit my son, who was working in Bergen that year, and to see my first granddaughter. We continued from Bergen to Oslo, and on to Sweden to attend Väv, an triennial weaving conference.

Along my weaving journey I became active in and teaching at local, regional and national organizations, becoming President of the Handweavers Guild of America in 1988. I attended the first Norwegian Breakfast Club meeting organized by Lila Nelson I think at Convergence held in San Jose. I attended many more Breakfast Club meetings. The Norwegian Breakfast Club eventually became the Norwegian Textile Newsletter. I visited Vesterheim in Decorah twice to give talks and workshops.

[Below: the Norwegian Breakfast Club organized a study group to investigate Flesberg technique, a three-shaft rosepath.]

Because I had access to original Bertha Gray Hayes handwritten materials, I coauthored Weaving Designs by Bertha Gray Hayes in 2009. At Convergence in 2010 I took a class on the fan reed, became enamored with ondulé textiles, and researched and wrote Ondulé Textiles: Weaving Contours with a Fan Reed in 2017.  Soon a small but devoted study group was established in Complex Weavers. This led to an in depth series of articles in the Complex Weavers Journal, February 2025.

The next Saunderstown Weaving School exhibition, to celebrate our 55th anniversary, is already scheduled for the fall of 2029!

Bonus photos! Row 1. Crackle overshot detail; Roses of the Sogn. Double weave pick-up with monksbelt border.
Row 2: Overshot table mat; Rosepath and monksbelt blended draft wall hanging. From Sigrid Palmgren’s Vavbok I. Linen. 8 shafts.
Row 3: Stars of the North. (detail) 8 shaft summer and winter. Design from Ekenmark damask patterns. Woven for Convergence 1994, Minneapolis workshop. Linen; Stars of the North.
Row 4: Rosepath and monksbelt blended draft wall hanging (detail). From Sigrid Palmgren’s Vavbok I. Linen. 8 shaft; Rosepath and monksbelt blended draft sampler. From Sigrid Palmgren’s Vavbok I. Cotton. 1980.
Row 5: Monk’s belt pink table runner. Cotton, cottolin.

November 2025

[Editor’s note: See also a wonderful interview on the Handweavers Guild of America “Textiles and Tea” series web page: Norma Smayda.]

Diving Deep: Nordic Textiles in Archaeological Textiles Review (Part One)

As a textile history buff, one of my favorite publications is Archaeological Textiles Review (ATR). Archaeological Textiles Review is an academic—but highly readable—journal disseminating current research involving archaeological textiles, including detailed information on weaving, spinning, and dyeing. (The publication was previously known as ATN, or Archaeological Textiles Newsletter.) 

Archaeological Textiles Review is published annually by the Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen. It includes research from around the globe, from cordage in Chile to loom weights in Hungary, cat mummies in ancient Egypt to whalers’ graves in the Arctic Circle. 

Below is a list of articles related to archaeological textiles in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland, and Iceland, as well as a handful on Ireland and Greenland. Note: In the interest of space, I have not included the published reports on annual meetings, research conferences, Ph.D. dissertations, etc. but they are well worth perusing. Each issue of ATR also includes a “Resources” section devoted to recent publications in the field. Early issues include extensive bibliographies of the same. 

This page covers issues from 2011-2024. See the listings for issues from 1986-2010 in Part Two.

All issues can be read online or downloaded for free from the website. All issues can also be purchased as print-on-demand copies from the University of Copenhagen Webshop. Avid readers might consider donating to support the ongoing work of ATR. Happy reading!

The journal images below link to the full pdf issues.

Textile research in the recent pre-digital past, Lise Bender Jørgensen

Wool fibre quality in Danish prehistoric textiles: a 3,000 year survey, Irene Skals, Ulla Mannering and Eva Andersson Strand

Icelandic mittens from archaeological contexts, Charlotte Rimstad, Ulla Mannering, Joe W. Walser III, Freyja H. Ó. Sesseljudóttir and Susanne Mueller

Imported fur in Viking Age Denmark and its importance as a visual marker, Luise Ørsted Brandt

Female dress in the Late Viking Age, Charlotte Rimstad

Textile colours of the Viking Age (TeCoVa), Ulla Mannering

Children’s clothing and funeral attire in the 10th to 12th centuries in Finland, Krista Wright, Jenni Sahramaa and Ina Vanden Berghe

Save the Loom: Defining, documenting and preserving looms, Susanne Lervad and Kathrine Vestergaard Brandstrup

A chieftain’s colourful garments: microinvasive analysis of Norwegian Snartemo V textiles, Krista Wright, Maarten R. van Bommel, Tuija Kirkinen, Jenni Suomela, Jani Seitsonen and Janne Ruokolainen

Fulled red hose: a grave find from Ravattula Ristimäkiin south west Finland dated to the early 13th century, Jaana Riikonen and Juha Ruohonen

Shirts for life and eternity in the grave of Bishop Peder Winstrup (1605–1679), Pernilla Rasmussen

Norwegian double-cloth: warp-weighted loom experiments in a complicated technique, Katherine L. Larson and Marta Kløve Juuhl

Textile Resources in Viking Age Landscapes (TRiVal), Eva Andersson Strand

Raincoats or riches? Contextualising vararfeldir through multi-perspective experiments, Julia Hopkin

Golden textiles from Gokstad, Marianne Vedeler

Viking Age textiles and tapestries: drawings by Miranda Bødtker, Lise Bender Jørgensen, Dagfinn Moe and Hana Lukesova

The textile bog find from Vong in Denmark, Ulla Mannering, Charlotte Rimstad and Irene Skals

Reconstructions revived: a handweaver’s personal perspective, Anna Nørgård

Margrethe Hald: the quest for the tubular loom, Ulrikka Mokdad and Morten Grymer-Hansen

Fashioning the Viking Age: status after the first three years, Ulla Mannering

Animal hair evidence in an 11th century female grave in Luistari, Finland, Tuija Kirkinen, Krista Vajanto and Stina Björklund

The Gällared shroud: a clandestine early 19th century foetal burial, Elizabeth E. Peacock, Stina Tegnhed, Emma Maltin and Gordon Turner-Walker

Blue dyed textiles in Early Iron Age Europe: Accessible or exclusive?, Patricia Hopewell and Susanna Harris

Household textiles (and production) in and beyond the Viking Age, Eva Andersson

The church cap and the crypt cap: Early modern knitted fragments found in Denmark, Maj Ringgaard

Knitted fragments of clothes excavated from the Swedish 17th century flagship Kronan, Helena Lundin

Fashioning the Viking Age, Ulla Mannering

Reconstructing the Tunic from Lendbreen in Norway, Marianne Vedeler and Lena Hammarlund

Making a Reconstruction of the Egtved Clothing, Ida Demant

The Red-Blue Conundrum: an Archaeo-linguistic Approach to Red Dyes and Blue Flowers in Prehistory, Mikkel Nørtoft

The Textile from Tvis in Denmark, Ulla Mannering

Red Heels: The Symbol of a Power Shift in 17th-Century Copenhagen?, Signe Groot Terkelsen and Vivi Lena Andersen

Germanic Linguistics and Textile Words, Nikolai Brink Sandbeck

Exploring a Medieval Patterned Silk Weaving in Honour of its Master Designer, Irene Skals

Early Iron Age Tablet Weaving in Denmark, Lise Ræder Knudsen

Investigating Wool Fibres from Danish Prehistoric Textiles, Irene Skals and Ulla Mannering

A Forgotten Cultural Heritage: Late Antique Textiles in Swedish Museum Collections, Maciej Szymaszek

Weaving Pictures: 15th Century Tapestry Production at Lengberg Castle, Beatrix Nutz and Claudia Ottino

Spinning with the Hand Spindle: An Analysis of the Mechanics and its Implications on Yarn Quality, André Verhecken

Ginderup – Textiles and Dress from the Bronze Age Gleaned from an Excavation Photograph, Sophie Bergerbrant, Sølvi Helen Fossøy and Lise Bender Jørgensen

Mathematical Image Analysis on Historical Textiles, Kristian Ryder Thomsen and Mathias Londin Larsen

Shimmering Cloth, Like the River by this Path: Bjørkum, Lærdal, and the Role of an Inland Production Site in the Viking Age, Ben Cartwright

A 17th Century Woman’s Cap from Haarby Church, Denmark, Camilla Luise Dahl and Esther Grølsted

Discovery of a New Tablet Weaving Technique from the Iron Age, Lise Ræder Knudsen and Karina Grömer

A 16th century silk fabric fragment from northern Finland, Sanna Lipkin and Anna-Kaisa Salmi

The digitally available Scandinavian-related articles from 1986-2010 are listed in Part Two of this article

Maria Mundal — From Mountainous Norway to Manhattan

Maria Mundal (1893-1974) grew up in Sogn on the West Coast of Norway, and couldn’t remember a time when she didn’t know how to weave. As a young girl, Maria wove a beautiful, large traditional rutevev or smettvev, [geometric square weave tapestry]. Her own description was, “Old Pattern from Sognefjord  My first try at Aakle veaving (sic).  Ca. 1905. Maria Mundal, 13 years old.” It is now in the collection of Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum. (62″ L, 27.5″ W)

She learned to weave from her mother, Nilsina Mundal (1861-1952), who also wove her whole life. Maria treasured a square-weave coverlet her mother made when she was only twelve. It was displayed in at least two news articles about Maria. That coverlet is also owned by Vesterheim; see a color photo here.

Maria Mundal displays the coverlet made by her mother, Nilsina Mundal.

Maria studied with Sunni Mundal (1887-1953, her sister) at her school of weaving in Oslo from 1919-1920, and also at a school run by her aunt, Britta Dahle at the Hotell Mundal in Sognefjord, Norway. She completed her weaving studies with Kristi Sexe Meland from Hardanger in 1925-26. Meland was the weaver who was commissioned by a group of Norwegian-American women to weave a replica of the Baldishol Tapestry that was presented to President and Mrs. Coolidge one year after the Coolidges visited the 1925 Centennial celebration of Norwegian immigration to the U.S.(1) 

Maria Mundal married the noted Norwegian artist Mons Breivik (1881-1950) on April 14, 1924, and they lived in the U.S. for several years.  Mons returned to Norway in 1936. He longed for home, didn’t thrive in the city. Years of struggle in Depression-era New York strained their marriage. Mons was sometimes without work and Maria was forced to take housework, often far from their home. (2) At the same time, they moved in artistic circles; they were listed as guests at an opening at the Brooklyn Museum in 1932. In 1936 Mons returned to Norway, and Maria remained in the U.S. Their divorce became final in 1936 or shortly thereafter.

1925 sketch of Maria Mundal by her husband Mons Breivik. Owned by Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

During WWII she worked as a “canteen mother” at Camp Norway, a military training facility for Norwegians in Lunenburg, Novia Scotia, Canada. “But then I received my papers and came south from Canada in 1943. If I could manage there, then I could manage to weave for a living.” (Reported in Nordisk Tidende, August 14, 1969)

One source listing the opening of her NYC Studio was a letter with a poem she sent to Eleanor Roosevelt after the death of Franklin Roosevelt, on June 12, 1946. “I have now opened a studio for handwoven material and scarfs, and have already had the pleasure of seeing my work well received.”

For the following decades, until her death at 81 in 1974, Maria taught and wove. She had a studio in her home in Manhattan, until moving to Baltimore in 1970, and then to Alexandria, Virginia in 1971. Over the years she taught weaving in her own studio, at the Chautauqua Institution, and in outside studios. She was active in weaving organizations and in Scandinavian-American groups, including the Norwegian Art and Craft Club of Brooklyn and the Bay Ridge Norwegian Art and Crafts Club. Her resume, updated in 1973, just months before her death, lists extensive lecture topics, shows, teaching venues, and affiliations.

Her tapestry subjects included mythology and astrology. Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum owns a Capricorn tapestry. In 1958 she began a series of tapestries based on the story of Per Gynt.

Maria Mundal. Sagittarius, 1971. 16″ H, 22.75″ W. Owned by Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

She spoke passionately about her love for weaving and her faith. “When you are creating something beautiful, you feel closer to your creator.” (Quoted in Anne Hannan, “Weaver Spins a Folk Tale of Scandinavia,” Newsday, Suffolk Ed, Feb, 7, 1958, p. 37) For her “Study in Crosses,” she spent time at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine in Manhattan, making sketches of a wide variety of crosses.

Maria Mundal, Study in Crosses, 1969. 30.5″ H x 40″ W. Owned by Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

Another of her religious tapestries depicts the moment of Christ’s death. She wrote, “It pictures the Crucifixion, just at the time when the man dies and the bird flies up. I don’t think most people realize that the Bible says that a darkness fell over the earth at the time.” (Lucy Acten, “Weaver Finds Kindred Element in Tapestry, Poetry, City’s Hills. Baltimore Sun, Thursday, October 1, 1970) Another article about Mundal elaborates on the theme of darkness.

Among her most dramatic works is Crucifixion — simple and original in composition and color. She said that she began the tapestry to loosen an inner depression that had taken hold, and her own therapy had the desired outcome. [translation mine] (“Norsk billedveverske Maria Mundal – Poet I farger,” Nordisk Tidende, October 4, 1973.)

Maria Mundal, Crucifixion. 43″ H x 27″ W. Owned by Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

She lived a long life, but had a tragic end before she was able to finish the tapestry she long planned to complete, a faithful, full-sized reproduction of the Baldishol Tapestry. A Norwegian-American newspaper reported her death.

The renowned art weaver Maria Mundal died at Ullevaal Hospital in Oslo on June 11. She had been living in Alexandria, Virginia, and had earlier this summer traveled on vacation to Norway after a 40 year absence from her homeland. She turned 80 in October 1973. 

After a visit to the Munch Museum she was hit by a car and broke her collarbone. She was taken to the hospital. She developed complications and her life could not be saved. She died on June 11 and was buried in Vegårdshei in Aust-Agder, where her mother is also buried. (Nordisk Tidende, June 27, 1974. “Art Weaver Maria Mundal is Dead”) 

Maria Mundal traded views of mountains for the tall buildings of Manhattan, but never lost her strong ties to Norwegian weaving traditions. She was active in the vibrant East Coast Norwegian-American community. Many of her weavings are preserved at Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum, and soon the collection will include the replica of the Baldishol Tapestry she began before her death. See the companion article, “Solving the Mystery of the Backwards Baldishol.”

November 2025

(1) Read more about the Baldishol commissioned for President and Mrs. Coolidge: Robbie LaFleur, “The Baldishol Tapestry–The White House Replica and Others,” Norwegian Textile Letter, March 2019, Updated April 2024. And Hermund Kleppa, “The Baldishol Tapestry in the White House,” Norwegian Textile Letter, March 2019.

(2) According to family lore, perhaps Maria worked as a maid for Kathryn Hepburn. A note was found with Mundal’s Baldishol replica, written by the daughter of the woman who married Abbie Wetzel’s husband after Abbie’s death. It is interesting that Abbie Wetzel’s husband, who died the year the note was written, didn’t remember Maria Mundal’s name, but characterized her as a “maid for Kathryn [sic] Hepburn.”

Ancient Techniques and the Newest Technology: The Digital Weaving Conference In Norway

In March this year, the Weavers’ Guild of Boston hosted Robbie LaFleur for a lecture and workshop about Frida Hansen.  I was busy weaving my open warp style tapestry when I saw an email from Vibeke Vestby, founder of Digital Weaving Norway. She invited me to submit a woven artwork for an exhibit in Norway to be held in August.  YES! I was immediately planning the trip.  The exhibition would be held in conjunction with a conference celebrating thirty years of the Thread Contoller (TC1 or TC2) loom. The Sundvolden Hotel in Krokklevia, on the edge of a fjord north of Oslo, was a perfect location for an August event. 

The conference, Digital Weaving: Innovation Through Pixels, featured talks from thirty textile professionals who varied from University professors, designers, desearchers, skilled TC2 trainers and independent artists. Twelve speakers represented the USA.  The loom is the new tool on the block in Maker Spaces, university textile departments, prototyping  engineering labs, and is part of weaving residency programs in locations such as the Icelandic Textile Center.

A catalogue with the conference title was also published.  It tells the story of Vibeke Vestby’s background, and how the TC looms were developed at Tronrud Engineering Moss. 

Vibeke Vestby and the team of TC2 Trainers. www.digitalweaving.no. and www.tronrudmoss.no .

Vibeke’s dream to build a modern tool for hand weavers began in the 1980s as computer technology and creative programs for drafting weaving patterns were just beginning. After years of research and development, the first loom was sold in 1995. In 1996 I attended one of the first workshops to introduce the TC loom, held at Montclair State University, New Jersey, and I put the loom on my wish list.  

Vibeke Vestby has persevered with a vision for weavers that has changed the way textiles can be developed.  In 2006, when The Woven Pixel: Designing for Jacquard and Dobby Looms Using Photoshop, written by Alice Schlein and Bhakti Ziek, was published, it became the weaving manual that instructed how Photoshop could be used to design woven structures.  Programs such as Photoshop, Fiberworks, WeavePoint and Arahweave, developed for the needs of weavers, now enable rapid design manipulation. A new software was introduced at this year’s conference, AdaCAD. It was developed by Laura Devendorf at the Unstable Design Lab at the University of Colorado, Boulder, and is an exciting open source program.  Now, in 2025, with 300 looms installed in locations around the world, weavers gathered to share stories about the TC loom and how it has transformed their weaving practice.

TC2 loom with spools

The conference presented opportunities for the TC loom weavers to sit together and swap experiences of working with the loom, to buid new connections within the growing community of digital weavers, and to make new friends.

Weaving traditions depend upon a span of time for them to be thoroughly adapted into general practice.  As textile professionals, we study ancient techniques and honor the methods of our ancestors.  As the mode of learning and showing respect, showcasing difficult technical skills that have been personally mastered is a way to prolong the heritage of the craft.

New weavers who begin a weaving journey have digital skills in image manipulation, a library of pixelated weave structures and intuitive computer skills that allow them to jump into weaving at a high level.  These innovators take materials at hand, without necessarily worrying whether the sample or fragment will endure the test of time.  Weavers delve into the field to combine engineering with multimedia. They explore texture and how to project emotions. They use materials that sense information or function as an aid to human experience with temperature detection or moisture containment or sound responsive properties. Artists push the boundaries of  “tapestry” with personal, social or political messages woven into the cloth. This wall hanging by Katia Huhmarkangas takes medical and other tech world imagery of the heart and combines them into a personal statement. 

Katia Huhmarkangas, Synthesis 1, 2024

After many years, I became a TC2 loom owner in 2016. Taking workshops with Cathryn Amidei, the USA representative, (cathrynamidei.com) and with online tutorials plus many hours of trial and error, my weaving has found a personal style. The piece I sent was woven from one of my drawings inspired by jazz musician, Lyle Mays. 

Laurie Steger,  Lyle, just playin’ . 2024

The honored designers that have shaped this generation of textile makers — such as Dorothy Liebes, Lucienne Day, Jack Lenor Larson, Annie Albers, Sheila Hicks, or the legendary Frida Hanson, to name a few — will be joined by Vibeke Vestby as a breakthrough inventor, educator and developer of modern methods of textile practice.

With the fjord just steps away from the Sundvolden Hotel, my husband and I took an evening walk.  We could hear sounds of hammering nearby.  Like the Pied Piper calling to men everywhere, we tracked down the source to discover The Hardraade Project, a community of people building a replica of an authentic Viking ship. They were using all the old techniques: wooden pegs, blacksmithed fixtures and handwoven linen sails. They were rushing to complete it for a planned launch on August 30. 

Viking ship construction with old techniques. Photo: Hardraade.

Visits the to Fram Museum, the Kon Tiki Museum (image: Kon Tiki) the Nobel Center and the Oslo National Museum of Art filled our two days left before heading home. 

Kon-Tiki

After learning about the newest weaving technology, viewing historical Norwegian tapestries at the National Museum completed my full circle of travel inspiration.

Tapestry, 1903. Gerhard Munthe, Designer. Nordenfjeldske kunstindustrimuseums atelier for kunstvævning, Producer. Photo: Frode Larsen

Laurie Carlson Steger is a weaver and Fiber artist from South Dartmouth, Massachusetts.  She works on 4 and 8 harness looms as well as the TC2 loom. She studied textiles at the University of Massachusetts, Dartmouth, is a member of Complex Weavers and Handweavers Guild of America and current Dean of the Weavers’ Guild of Boston.  

Lauriecarlsonsteger.com, @lightweaver11_laurie_steger

October 2025

Husfliden: A Herstory

Handcrafts and textile production were essential survival skills in pre-industrial Norway. Addams describes how the availability of machine-woven cloth gave many rural women the time to produce goods to sell. During the National Romantic era, beautiful textiles became symbols of national identity.

Click on the photo or title above for a pdf copy of the article.

Addams’ survey of women and handcraft history even describes the movement of Norwegian traditional craft to the U.S.

“The Norwegians who moved here in the Great Migration hoped to rise above the social status they left behind, so in the interest of assimilation they quickly adopted the “American” aesthetic. It is the later generations who, realizing what they left behind, picked up the pieces to form a uniquely Norwegian-American identity.”

Below: Jane Addams’ lichen-dyed yarn; mittens of her own Selbu-style design; and a tintype of the author in her Fana bunad. Photos courtesy of Jane Addams.

October 2025